Currently deciding btw 2014 and 2013 JSW TDi....need advice!

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S1C EM

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alext91 said:
Gotcha. Most of the cars I've seen have had oil changes done as part of the service, but I would definitely verify. It's also worth asking to see if they'll do a brake fluid flush, which should likely be done anyway, and check tires for dry rot. At 27k, tires may be likely near replacement anyway. I've read that VW has authorized dealers to do oil change, brake fluid flush, tires, and brakes as part of the fix if the cars need it. I'm not sure about letting the DSG service go to 80k, it's probably fine, but I'm not too familiar with DSG.
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Good point on the brakes. I'll check. The tires are all new; they replaced those. As for the DSG, I mean servicing now (35k; the red car had 27k) and then not again til 80k. That's just a 45k interval versus a 40. I figure that shouldn't be huge.
 
alext91

alext91

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S1C EM said:
Good point on the brakes. I'll check. The tires are all new; they replaced those. As for the DSG, I mean servicing now (35k; the red car had 27k) and then not again til 80k. That's just a 45k interval versus a 40. I figure that shouldn't be huge.
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Right, sorry that's what I meant as well. I don't see why that would be a problem but I could be wrong. Good news on the tires.
 
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calimustang

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Lucky you. I never got new tires. They refused. Guess Ill call VWoA. They both were dry rooted and one did explode.


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S1C EM

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calimustang said:
Lucky you. I never got new tires. They refused. Guess Ill call VWoA. They both were dry rooted and one did explode.


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Ouch! You'd think they might do something.

You were the one that got out of the dealer for under $9k, though, right?;)













I kid.:D

EDIT: No, that wasn't you. Sorry. I knew it was another Cali owner.
 
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calimustang

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Haha nope it wasn’t me who got it on a amazing deal. It was decent but they were too dumb or refused to look at it carefully that those tires are dangerous to roll during hot days.


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alext91

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calimustang said:
Haha nope it wasn’t me who got it on a amazing deal. It was decent but they were too dumb or refused to look at it carefully that those tires are dangerous to roll during hot days.


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That's scary!
 
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calimustang

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Yup! Could have caused a serious accident and lose control of the vehicle and I might not be here talking to you guys. Im grateful I survived that... twice.

One was my fault years ago for neglecting the dry rot on oem conti’s on my old 2011 JSW TDI. Which taught me a lesson to keep a eye on tires few times a month on the fleet of 5 cars. (2 of 89 mustangs, 2003 ALH wagon 5 speed (recently bought), 2015 Passat TDI and 2014 JSW TDI.)

Remember I am from Cali and the sun are not as harsh in Cali as it is here in Florida so they dry rot quickly about 2 years average plus 40k miles a year does take the toll on tires.


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S1C EM

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calimustang said:
Yup! Could have caused a serious accident and lose control of the vehicle and I might not be here talking to you guys. Im grateful I survived that... twice.

One was my fault years ago for neglecting the dry rot on oem conti’s on my old 2011 JSW TDI. Which taught me a lesson to keep a eye on tires few times a month on the fleet of 5 cars. (2 of 89 mustangs, 2003 ALH wagon 5 speed (recently bought), 2015 Passat TDI and 2014 JSW TDI.)

Remember I am from Cali and the sun are not as harsh in Cali as it is here in Florida so they dry rot quickly about 2 years average plus 40k miles a year does take the toll on tires.


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For sure. Good lesson for everyone, really. I see bad tires being driven on quite frequently. Your ride should have good kicks, probably as often as you buy them for yourself.:cool:
 
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calimustang

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Oh yeah I treated my old 2011 JSW so good like CP3, stage 2 malone tune and Bilstein HD’s shocks and full LED lights upgrade. She drove like a new car plus saving my life so its my thanks for her royal treatment.


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There is a small amount of rust underneath the rear of the car just on the very edge of the suspension arms. Also a little bit on the top of the fuel filter housing. Any concern there?
 
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calimustang

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On the body itself or the control arms? If its on the control arms, nothing for you to worry about. They can be replaced easily.

If it is on the body, maybe be concerned. Did you take pictures?


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Just the arms. Nothing I can find on the body. There is a yellow buildup on the edges of the bottom, but it runs off. They all seem to have it. Same with the control arm rust. Doesn’t seem like a problem. I did take pics, but having trouble getting them uploaded to a hosting site right now.
 
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S1C EM said:
Just the arms. Nothing I can find on the body. There is a yellow buildup on the edges of the bottom, but it runs off. They all seem to have it. Same with the control arm rust. Doesn’t seem like a problem. I did take pics, but having trouble getting them uploaded to a hosting site right now.
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Most of the cars no matter where they're from will have slight surface rust on suspension components. I would just look more closely at fasteners and other parts. Oilhammer's post definitely shows an extreme example
 
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All screws look to be fine. There is a single rusty one on the air filter housing, but that’s it.
 
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S1C EM said:
All screws look to be fine. There is a single rusty one on the air filter housing, but that’s it.
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Sounds like you're in good shape!

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calimustang

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Yup same here. My 2014 JSW is from New Jersey and I could not even a speck of rust anywhere besides few screws and bolts having surface rust. I will clean them up and it will look like it has lived in Florida all her life. :) control arms will rust regardless of locations.

My old 92 ford mustang gt was bought in 1998 as 6 years old with 88k miles in California and she already had rust on the axle. Its from the rain and nothing we can do. It is harmless rust on the axle. So you pretty much are set with that wagon to purchase.


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alext91

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Suspense is killing me! Very exciting though, congratulations!

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S1C EM

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alext91 said:
Suspense is killing me! Very exciting though, congratulations!

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I linked it above for now. I’m copying the link from imgur and using the image insertion button on the forum, then pasting the imgur link....but no dice. Am I doing it wrong?

Unrelated, how do I tell if diesel is “good diesel?” I’ve seen it mentioned that there are poorer quality fuels (which I know about gas), but looking it up, all the brands that normally offer “Top Tier” regular gasoline don’t offer the same in diesel. I would normally assume Shell is good, but saw before that they were not. Advice?
 
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calimustang

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Stay away from shell gas stations that says B10 to B20 blend. B5 is fine or no label shown then you are all good and as long as high traffic of diesel vehicles fueling up there then fresh tank of diesel are inside the gas station which will not ruin your HPFP. Thats how my old 2011 JSW ran flawlessly for almost 300k miles. I go to WAWA most of the times because they have fuel guarantee that will cover your vehicle if their fuel actually damaged your fuel system to the engine. Im not sure if you have it at where you are located.

Your new JSW looks awesome in that brown-ish color.


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S1C EM

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Thanks, Cali! I think I made the right call on the color, though it really came down to the cars’ history for me. Oh, and “toffee brown metallic.”;):D

As for the gas, what does “B10” or “B20” stand for? I looked at a QT pump yesterday and it only mentioned being ultra-low sulfur and that it may contain up to “##% biodiesel blend.” Is that what the B is for?

I’m not familiar with what a WAWA is, but most diesel pumps here probably get plenty of traffic due to all of our folks who believe their F-250s and 2500s are really necessary.
 
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calimustang

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Yup B is “Bio-diesel blend” thanks for asking me to clarification. I didn’t sleep at all whole night. Thanks to the ADHD brain. Lol

Anyway, from what I read on this site for the causes of HPFP’s to fail based on my knowledge is 2 years ago and back, I haven’t updated myself on them lately.....

Heres a good eye opening link about B20 as Bio-diesel fuel, they mentioned it about Mercedes engine and that also applies to our VW TDI engines:

http://blog.goodsam.com/beware-of-b20


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S1C EM

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Eek! The bad part is, I think every diesel pump in the state comes with that label about “may contain up to 10% (I think that’s the number) biodiesel blend.”:(

Am I doomed?:confused::confused::confused:
 
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calimustang

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S1C EM

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Random question (and I’m not near my vehicle now to check the manual), but I noticed this morning when I tried to lock it using the button inside the door, it wouldn’t lock. Hitting unlock seems to trigger it to actuate, but hitting lock does nothing. Same on both front doors, so I assume I just don’t know what I’m doing. I tried it both with and without the key in my pocket. What am I missing?
 
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