Lower Control Arm Replacement

Hi guys,
Looking for some advise.....

2010 TDI Wagon Manual w/ 200K KM.
One of my front coil springs has broken (presumably from a seized strut bearing).

I am planning to replace the bearings/mounts on both sides and will prob do the spring and strut on both sides - due to there being a complete unit available for a reasonable price.

I am thinking of replacing the control arm bushings and ball joints as well because the cost isn't great, I will have it mostly apart already, and will need an alignment regardless.


Are there any issues with control arm removal on a MANUAL car ? I know there are clearance issues with the bolts on DSG, but how about manual ?

Is there an opportunity here to use parts from say a GTI or TT to stiffen things up a bit ? I had done this on my MkIV, but I didn't know what was interchangeable on the MKV.

thanks for the input

Beware of aftermarket strut "assemblies", as most all of them are poor quality junk.

I would buy springs, struts, strut mounts, and bearings in reputable brands from a reputable vendor and build it yourself (or have someone with a proper compressor do it for you).

Technically, you would not have to align the car, BUT it would be a good idea anyway.

Chances are very high the sway bar links will not come loose, so plan on getting new ones. Steering adjusters (tie rods) are common items to stick as well, may want to make sure the jam nuts come loose AND the tie rods actually rotate in the outer ends. Otherwise, they will need to be replaced.

It is FAR easier to drop the whole subframe assembly (steering and all) and then change the control arms w/ bushings while it is loose. That will also make tie rod replacement, if necessary, extremely quick and easy.

Ball joints are not high failure items, but if you want to you certainly can at this time.

The struts often stick in the carriers, the same spreader tool as the earlier cars also works on these, makes it much easier.

Axles can also stick in the carriers. Hub bearings are more common than most other items it seems. These too can be tight in the carrier.

just looking through some how-tos about the subframe removal....it looks like every bolt that is taken out is 1 use only and needs to be replaced? also, I saw mention of installing "noise insulation" ?

There's a vid on Youtube with a British guy who does it using a pry bar and doesn't remove the CA itself. Takes him about five minutes. He does have a lift though, would be more difficult to get the leverage on your back.

https://youtu.be/T6TGnnAFTnU

And another method:
https://youtu.be/ZnKazADPmYE

The rear LCR is pretty easy and independent of any other disassembly. The only issue I had with the strut removal was the need to remove/replace the knuckle from the axle, which required a puller and large breaker bar. One was stuck. I didn’t drop the subframe, but maybe it would make the work easier if you were replacing all the bushings. I’m interested to know if going that way would avoid the axle removal.

The subframe location is part of the alignment and the rear LCRs move slightly on the subframe, also part of the alignment process. You will need a shop that understands these are adjustable, some don’t. VW has special tooled pins to insert in the holes to maintain alignment when removing these parts.

Audi S3 bushings (LCR and top of strut) are a direct fit and provide less compliance. I have both and at this time I think I like the stiffer LCR but the jury is still out on the strut mounts. The mk6 platform seems sensitive to small bumps, which is why the Koni Actives are suggested as a means of improving the ride.