04 Bew No start after fuel sender and G28 sensor change. p0322 fault up

V1a2s2h4

Active member
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Jun 10, 2014
Location
Rochester Ny
TDI
02 VW Golf
Problem Fixed. Solution: replaced Broken Signal wire in ECM wire harness near the Ecm plug in under the windshield.


Hello Group
My 04 bew golf died on me last week while on the road, first there was a loss of power and as was pulling over the engine stalled. I pulled a fuel line on the canister going to the engine and there was fuel in the line. The car started up after replacing the line and I drove 110 miles home and the car died in the driveway later on in the night.

Codes at the time were P0321 - G28 speed sensor - implausible signal. I also determined that my fuel sender in the tank had died also, no noise or response when the key was turned.

Replaced the fuel sender, and primed the system using VCDS group 35 and ran the fuel pump cycle several times. Pulled lines and used a vacuum hand pump to pull fuel through to the canister. Replaced the G28 sensor with a replacement from the dealer. On several attempts of cranking the car, the car wouldn't start and my glow plug light flashed along with my oil light.
Should I look into doing the TBS wiring fix? Or could my problem be else where? It has me rather stumped.

VCDS Freeze frame:
RPM: 0/min
Torque: 0.0Nm
Speed: 0.0km/h
Load : 0.0%
Voltage : 9.65
Bin Bits: 00101100
Idle Stabilization: 0.0*KW
RPM: 126/Min

Also while running group 1 while trying to crank the data read 231 RPMS before I stopped trying.
Any pointers would be appreciated.
 
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JB05

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You need a new G28 speed sensor; AKA crankshaft position sensor. I changed mine last month due to stalling also. The attached cable gets brittle over the years due to the hot environment.
A 9mm, 12 point socket is what you will need; I combined this with a universal attachment.
 
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V1a2s2h4

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Jun 10, 2014
Location
Rochester Ny
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02 VW Golf
You need a new G28 speed sensor; AKA crankshaft position sensor. I changed mine last month due to stalling also. The attached cable gets brittle over the years due to the hot environment.
A 9mm, 12 point socket is what you will need; I combined this with a universal attachment.
The sensor is Brand New from the dealer, so I'd hope its not a defective part.
 

JB05

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Sorry, I missed your replacement statement. Is the new sensor fully seated? I read here that the bolt is not to be used to seat the new sensor as it can become distorted.
 

V1a2s2h4

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Jun 10, 2014
Location
Rochester Ny
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02 VW Golf
Sorry, I missed your replacement statement. Is the new sensor fully seated? I read here that the bolt is not to be used to seat the new sensor as it can become distorted.
Yes Sir its seated. It was a pain in the neck because of the new seal ring on it, but I Got it seated first before tightening down the screw. so my next guess is to check the harness and where to make sure it's pushed together all the way or if i damaged the wires coming from the harness when I was trying to unplug the old. There is a chance a wire is chaffed.

Side question because before I start pulling wires. You wouldnt happen to know how much power should be going to that g28 sensor in the harness? I was thinking of taking a probe and touching the harness side of the connection to check for power and a response. My theory is that when Turn the key the ecu should send some type of current down to the sensor so a probe should be able to pick it up.
 

Carlos_TJ

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I believe the G28 is a Hall effect sensor. As such, its output is a variation of voltage as the perpendicular magnetic field applied to it changes intensity as it gets closer/farther.
Imho an oscilloscope would be better suited to monitor the waveform output while cranking the engine.
If no scope is available, an analog voltmeter could be used to confirm there is output.
Why analog? Because if you want to check output while cranking will result in a rapid changin signal (if the sensor is ok) that a digital vm may have trouble picking up.

If you just want to confirm the sensor has power when the key is on/cranking any probe should work.
 

V1a2s2h4

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Jun 10, 2014
Location
Rochester Ny
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02 VW Golf
I believe the G28 is a Hall effect sensor. As such, its output is a variation of voltage as the perpendicular magnetic field applied to it changes intensity as it gets closer/farther.
Imho an oscilloscope would be better suited to monitor the waveform output while cranking the engine.
If no scope is available, an analog voltmeter could be used to confirm there is output.
Why analog? Because if you want to check output while cranking will result in a rapid changin signal (if the sensor is ok) that a digital vm may have trouble picking up.

If you just want to confirm the sensor has power when the key is on/cranking any probe should work.
Thanks, i dont have the osclloscope but I'll go to work with my voltmeter. the battery was sounding weak after so many crank attempts so i'm having it charged now. I've been checking resistences and i've noticed that my New g28 sensor from the dealer registered .509k ohms and the old one is registering .494k ohms. I'm trying to find what the right resistance values are, but im curious if the old sensor is still good because it's not too far off in resistance.
 

JB05

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Oct 20, 2005
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Il.USA
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Golf,2005,anthracite blue
I believe the G28 is an induction type; thus the magnetic tip. The cam shaft sensor is a hall effect. I was very meticulous when routing the attached cable of the new G28; keeping it away from the vacuum reservoir bracket and not touching any hot surfaces. I was also concerned with the magnetic tip getting contaminated since it had a mind of its own when I was aiming for the mounting hole which was difficult to see. The sensor wanted to stick to the not so clean block, but I really don't think that is your problem.
 

Carlos_TJ

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2009 Bora (BXE PD)
^^^^ thats interesring because usually inductor sensor.swithces are used as proximity switches.
I dont have extensive VAG specific sensor experiences but i do work with electronic semiconductors for a living.

Thanks for the insight!
 

V1a2s2h4

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Jun 10, 2014
Location
Rochester Ny
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02 VW Golf
Spent a few hours trying out a couple things today and still i'm unsuccessful in getting the car to start.

I pulled the new Sensor back out again and inspected it. I discovered that there was a collection of metal chips on the magnet. I had hoped that this would solve the problem after cleaning them off and then cleaning the hole again, but no luck. Is it possible there's more chips on the inside blocking the signal further?

I put back in the old sensor. When I pulled out the new one after cleaning it, it came out without anything on the magnet. When I put the old sensor back in and tried cranking it, The car threw a code. P0322 000 no signal Intermittent - MIL ON.

This is the first time it's said Intermittent, before it would just say No Signal. Do this mean that it's kinda picking up a signal but not enough for the car to get a good read?
 

V1a2s2h4

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Location
Rochester Ny
TDI
02 VW Golf
Have you tought of inspecting the ECM connector?
Thats what i'm working on right now, I noticed some corrosion at the back of the wire plug on the ECM side of the speed sensor hook up. I'm currently pulling and and Isolating the wire for the speed sensor up to the ECM plug. From there i'm going to probe the wires and check for breaks in the wires. Hopefully I'll find the problem within that because this is turning into a nightmare
 

gforce1108

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Have you checked some other basics? Timing belt, etc? My BEW ran for years with a dead lift pump and had no impact to driveability. When my crank sensor failed - it was intermittent for several months (stall once a week maybe) and then one day would run until hot and stall. But - it would start as soon as it cooled off.

There is some related info here:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=328868

Although - I wouldn't expect the problem to suddenly occur. If you have always had long crank times this might help.
 

wonneber

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Thats what i'm working on right now, I noticed some corrosion at the back of the wire plug on the ECM side of the speed sensor hook up. I'm currently pulling and and Isolating the wire for the speed sensor up to the ECM plug. From there i'm going to probe the wires and check for breaks in the wires. Hopefully I'll find the problem within that because this is turning into a nightmare
With the sensor plugged in measure resistance from the ECU connector pins 102 to 110.
It should have continuity.
Also no connection to ground.

It looks like its a shielded wire, the shield connects to pin 86 of the ECU.
While your under the plenum maybe clean the ground connection under there.
 

V1a2s2h4

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Jun 10, 2014
Location
Rochester Ny
TDI
02 VW Golf
Update: Problem Fixed!

Cause: Broken G28 Sensor wire in harness up near the ECM.

Details: Decided to check the wires going from the speed sensor back to the ECM. Unplugging the ecm and stripping the tape back I found that one of the signal wires was broken right at the butt connector it was attached to. Fixed the wire and probed the rest of the wires to insure that current was reaching down to the sensor connection. Replaced everything and now the car starts up significantly faster than it use to.

Ty for the Help you guys.
 
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