JB Weld Oil pan?

P2B

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How would you rate the chances of fixing this with JB Weld from the outside if I wait until it stops dripping?

This happened with a Defender steel plate in place, it appears the rib in the middle of the plate got pushed against the pan just hard enough to create a tiny crack about half an inch long.



Simon
 

Windex

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What's the widest gap along the inch crack?

JB is good as long as the surfaces are clean and free of grease/oil. If you can get the crack nice and clean, then I would think that your chances are good.

ALH pans are cheap and relatively easy to replace - why not just replace it?
 

BobnOH

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1 in 40.
You'd want to take the pan off to clean, then it might hold, 1 in 3 maybe.
1/4" drive ratchet, socket, 6" extension will do it.
 

jmodge

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1 in 40.
You'd want to take the pan off to clean, then it might hold, 1 in 3 maybe.
1/4" drive ratchet, socket, 6" extension will do it.
I would say better odds, but agree with pulling it. Reminds me of the time some dumb a** broke the corner off my trans after 5spd swap, (this person will remain nameless, I hope). It took forever to stop the leaking. I drilled the end of each crack with a small drill and ground a V in the crack until it JUST began to open. Then one small fine layer, followed by 4 or 5, don't remember which. Held up great. I was very meticulious with the prep work.
Looks like you have quite the gap, can you close it any?
 

Geomorph

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I would just replace it. It is going to be difficult to clean without taking it off. If you have to take it off, might as well put a new one back on.
 

sawmilldon

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I like the look of those hybrid pans with the steel bottom. I think I will go that route for my next rebuild.
 

P2B

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What's the widest gap along the inch crack?
There is no gap, can't even see the crack. It was parked for two days after it happened, didn't loose enough to notice when I got in and drove 200km. Still had almost a quart in it after sitting another 4 days, but this time I noticed the puddle before starting the engine.
JB is good as long as the surfaces are clean and free of grease/oil. If you can get the crack nice and clean, then I would think that your chances are good.
ALH pans are cheap and relatively easy to replace - why not just replace it?
Not as cheap and easy as JB Weld if it works. I'm away for a couple of days, it should have stopped dripping by the time I get back.
Simon
 

Windex

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Just clean it really good with brake clean, and scuff the surface with some 80-120 grit. then clean the surface again.
 

GEFP

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Rub a bar of soap into the crack to stop the leaking. Scuff the surrounding area with sand paper to help with JB weld adhesion. Clean it good with brake clean or equivalent. Just straight JB will seal it but if you want extra insurance just cut a piece of tin and JB it over the crack. I use a piece of wood to hold the tin in place till the JB has cured.
 

2many diesels

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I bought a mk4 jetta that had a crack in the oil pan. While I was re-configuring the motor for a longitudinal installation I had the oil pan off. Then I noticed the pan had jb weld on the inside as well as the underside...and it still leaked, and I have no idea how it was preped.
Why in the world would someone go the trouble of removing the pan due to a crack and not replace it?
The cost of a motor vs the cost of an oil pan is huge. Personally I wouldnt risk it.
 

maxmoo

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I would just replace the pan....your engine needs it's oil to survive.
And then....worry less drive more.
 

ItAintRodKnock

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if you gotta remove it to properly clean it up and apply the JB Weld, then you may as well just purchase a new pan and the proper sealer and replace the pan itself.

you can find them cheap sometimes at local VW shops(not dealer)
I did it with just Jack Stands and it isnt terribly difficult, but youll need one extension to get to acouple bolts.

Worry less, Drive more. X2
and in this case, its relatively inexpensive.
 

Nozzleman

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Gas tank sealer putty might work better than the JB Weld. You do not have to clean the surface to get it to stick. I have fixed gas tanks and oil pans using it. Once on a full tank of gasoline with a 1/2" hole while laying under a '56 Ford Panel in Branson MO.
 

PB_NB

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Try some ISO alcohol to clean the weld area after sanding it.

It there is a crack, you can span it with a fabric. Just put one coat on, then push the fabric into the first coat. Then apply another coat and let it set up. It will be bullet proof or at least strong enough to keep the oil in the pan!

This is the same method used with other 2 part sealant products.

Let us know if it all works out in the end.
 

P2B

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http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3003467&postcount=3

I have jb weld on a small crack in my pan. It's held solid for the last 120K miles. But it depends on the crack. Make sure you get the area very clean and let it set up completely before you add oil.
The crack in my pan is so small it took a week for all the oil to drain out. If it works for runonbeer it'll work for me.

I roughed up the area with 80 grit and cleaned it thoroughly with pure alcohol before applying the JB Weld, and will let it cure for 48 hours (allowing extra cure time because they are calling for -10C overnight) before adding oil. We'll see.

Simon
 

P2B

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It took 36 hours with the frost heater on to fully cure the JB Weld, but the repair shows no sign of leaking after two runs up to operating temperature so I'm optimistic it will hold.

I beat the rib in the skid plate flat before putting it back on so it won't do the same thing again.



Simon
 

hugho

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How would you rate the chances of fixing this with JB Weld from the outside if I wait until it stops dripping?

This happened with a Defender steel plate in place, it appears the rib in the middle of the plate got pushed against the pan just hard enough to create a tiny crack about half an inch long.



Simon[/easy answer: NO! NO! NO!. Junkyard oil pans are cheap. JB weld(epoxy) fails with moderate heat. Welding with say tig(off the engine!) totally acceptable. JB weld is epoxy with powdered aluminum I think. I use my own epoxy system with powdered copper all the time, I think better. Never use epoxy if heat is an issue.
 

GEFP

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Oh my goodness! Mechanics have used JB Weld to hold Detroit diesel cylinder liners together till new ones can come in on the next plane. That's a way hotter environment that an oil pan. When your mechanicing in the Arctic you do what needs doing to keep stuff going. JB weld would do quite well on that oil pan. But if your going to take off then I would just get it welded.
 

BobnOH

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central Ohio
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Well lets hope the epoxy holds up. I would check it once a month (leave skid plate off if you can) for maybe 6 months
 

P2B

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Toronto & Muskoka, Canada
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Well lets hope the epoxy holds up. I would check it once a month (leave skid plate off if you can) for maybe 6 months
I'd probably need to keep a few oil pans on the shelf if I planned to drive around for 6 months with no skid plate!

I will check for drips before starting the engine for a while, and continue normal practice of checking oil every fillup.

Simon
 

BobnOH

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The epoxy itself won't fail, but it can loose it's seal. Materials change size from heat or cold and at different rates.
I think you're good, just keep an eye on it for a while.
 

BobnOH

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May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
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New Beetle 2003 manual
I'd probably need to keep a few oil pans on the shelf if I planned to drive around for 6 months with no skid plate!

I will check for drips before starting the engine for a while, and continue normal practice of checking oil every fillup.

Simon
If you can, high speed urban traffic is the greatest risk. Well just monitor oil level on the stick.
 
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