turbodieseldyke
Veteran Member
It's so awesome when people post 2048x4096 pics, so all the text is 300 columns scrolled to the right. Keep it up.
this may not be true, your going to have more control, and probably more balance, going thru turns and driving harder doesnt really count, its your own lead-foot. and yes going faster puts that much more stress, here and there, not only the wheel bearings &components,like the nut, will take that much more stress.I've installed a rear lower sway bar, for 4 years now. Consequently, in turns, the forces are greater on both side rear axle nuts and rear bearings. Since the rear lower sway bar keeps the car flatter in turns. It's fun as hell to drive. Really feels like a race car. Squeals the tires more easily and sooner in the turns. Like you're riding on rails. It hardly sways the body of the car at all. But the downside is, the rear lower sway bar strains the bearings and axle nuts harder than a stock OEM rear suspension would.
UGH........ Look at the picture of the threads on the stub. See how they are kinda flat looking? They look FUBARed to me. I would not even try to put a nut on that stub........If you were to buy a wheel nut at a hardware store...
What's the size of the shaft the wheel nut fits onto?
Thread pitch?
UGH........ Look at the picture of the threads on the stub. See how they are kinda flat looking? They look FUBARed to me. I would not even try to put a nut on that stub........
Worth repeating. When replacing bearings, use quality bearings and and ALWAYS use the races that came with the new bearings even if the old races look good.
The bearing and races are manufactured as a matched set, and even with quality bearings, reusing the old races with new bearings will shorten the bearings life.
Who manufactured the bearing is not the point. The point is that the races that came with a bearing should only be used with that bearing. The rollers, inner race and outer race are manufactured as a matched set. It is assumed by the manufacturer that the bearing is installed correctly which means making sure you install the inner and outer race that the new bearing came with.OK. I removed the 18-year-old original VW bearing races 2 yrs ago when the bearing failed originally, and installed the new races that came with the new Meyle bearing. I'll do the same this time, even though the races and bearing are from the same manufacturer Meyle, they might be different enough that they don't exactly go together as perfectly.
welding would/should tend to be more local heat. it ll do some heat & cooling to base metal. tig is supposed to be the least heat input, most local, for modern popular processes, it ll be the strongest weld. it, being a slow process allows heat to build up.If it is then welding on it will mess it up too.