2001 ALH into 2001 Ford Ranger Edge

Power steering

After a year and a half of driving, I finally got my power steering connected over the weekend. More laziness than anything else to why I didn't do it to begin with.

Now... question for the fluids people out there:

I used the Ford recommended Mercon V ATF (Mobile 1 brand) and everything seems to be fine. I am using the stock TDI power steering pump, Ford / Volkswagen hybrid high pressure hose. In the Volkswagen world there is fire and brimstone awaiting you if you don't use that synthetic mineral oil VW recommends. Is my pump going to die an early death or is that warning on Volkswagens more for the rack?

No idea David. All I can add is that I've been using the Ford recommended fluid for 3 years without issue.

I think it is the rack seals that you need to worry about. I think ford fluid would be fine.

I use the expensive Pentosin stuff in my audi swap with VW pump, but that is the stuff that was supposed to be original to the audi rack.

I just killed the 2nd in tank fuel pump in Ranger. One was last summer, started making a lot of noises and then died - it was the original 270.000km pump.

Today the replacement pump died.

Something tells me that Ford gasoline pumps are not designed for Diesel.

Both pumps I removed the fuel pressure regulator and installed a H connection between the injector pump and the fuel filter.

What have others done with these conversions? Should I omit the pump completely?

Its my understanding the old south American diesel rangers had just a draw straw and a boat hand pump for priming if needed. Nothing wrong with a straw only if your under 250HP on a 11mm pump.

I'm using a 4-6 psi external pump mounted to the frame rail,so far it has held up to about a tank worth.
With an inline filter before the pump.

I'm using the standard Ranger in-tank pump with the factory pressure regulator removed. I did install a bypass pressure regulator from Holley which seems to have worked well so far. As far as I can tell I have the original in-tank pump now with over 220k miles.

Removed the tank last night at -5C - not too bad, but certainly could have been better!

I removed the pump assembly and found it pretty simple to remove the fuel pump from the assembly. It's the same pump as my BMW R1100GS had! I removed the strainer from the bottom of it. Wedged a barb brass fitting into the strainer and then some fuel line from strainer to the output port. Should work just fine right to the last drop.

This afternoon the tank goes back in and I will see how it runs on suction alone.

Hasenwerk said:

Removed the tank last night at -5C - not too bad, but certainly could have been better!

I removed the pump assembly and found it pretty simple to remove the fuel pump from the assembly. It's the same pump as my BMW R1100GS had! I removed the strainer from the bottom of it. Wedged a barb brass fitting into the strainer and then some fuel line from strainer to the output port. Should work just fine right to the last drop.

This afternoon the tank goes back in and I will see how it runs on suction alone.

Click to expand...

Don't forget to remove your H connection

greengeeker said:

Don't forget to remove your H connection

Click to expand...

NOW you say that!

So yeah, yesterday put the tank back in, crack open an injector union, crank for about 15 seconds and VROOM! Runs - let it idle for a few minutes and pat myself on the back go inside and have a beer.

Hopped in the truck this morning to go to my day job and a few minutes later the power starts to go and then I am a dead duck on the side of the road. Fun fact: you can drive for about 3km on the fuel that is in the fuel filter! Remove the H connection, bleed the truck on the side of the road, in the dark at a balmy +1C, and away I go. The remaining 10km was non-eventful!

Did a much needed upgrade over the weekend!



Manifold Absolute Pressure and Exhaust Gas Temperature readings where the P N R D 1 2 3 thing is supposed to be. The left numbers are "instant" read and update every 400ms - faster than that the LCD starts to blur. The max values update as soon as there is a new max value and holds that for 3 seconds.

Thats pretty trick. Can you switch to other parameters at all?

Motohead1 said:

Thats pretty trick. Can you switch to other parameters at all?

Click to expand...

I could design something that shows what ever parameters you want to show. I have the Torque app for my Android based radio, so things like water temp and the like I can get from that. There is no EGT on the ALH engine, and torque only shows 255 kpa for a max MAP setting and I am running more boost than that.

The next revision of my software will blink the screen when max EGT is hit to draw your attention to it.

what type of " biscuit Puck " style mount did you use. I have the same engine mounts from http://gastodiesel.tdconversions.com. i am in the process of installing a ALH into a samurai. I purchased your custom harness by the way i am not up to installing yet.

pwm74 said:

what type of " biscuit Puck " style mount did you use. I have the same engine mounts from http://gastodiesel.tdconversions.com. i am in the process of installing a ALH into a samurai. I purchased your custom harness by the way i am not up to installing yet.

Click to expand...

My mounts are the first generation mounts sold by TD Conversions. They are rather hard. I know Randy is now selling slightly softer units and they are supposed to be better.

If I was doing this again, I would install a front mount system like this http://www.fastforward.ca/motormounts/ simple and effective. I'd probably pony up the bucks and install the hydraulic mounts from a Passat BHW motor with this configuration.

Hasenwerk said:

My mounts are the first generation mounts sold by TD Conversions. They are rather hard. I know Randy is now selling slightly softer units and they are supposed to be better.
If I was doing this again, I would install a front mount system like this http://www.fastforward.ca/motormounts/ simple and effective. I'd probably pony up the bucks and install the hydraulic mounts from a Passat BHW motor with this configuration.

Click to expand...

I've visually studied your mount idea on your site for some time now, and I can't make sense of it. Do you have a diagram of how it would supposedly mount up? Would something like this work between the frame rails of a 4runner with a BHW?

It's simply the bar on the motor that would need to be the same length, plus or minus, as what is shown in my motor mount section. The other piece that goes to the vehicle just needs to be the correct spacing from the mount that you put on the motor. So fasten it however it needs to go to make that spacing right. I would on a Toyota go between the frame rails.

Hasenwerk said:

It's simply the bar on the motor that would need to be the same length, plus or minus, as what is shown in my motor mount section. The other piece that goes to the vehicle just needs to be the correct spacing from the mount that you put on the motor. So fasten it however it needs to go to make that spacing right. I would on a Toyota go between the frame rails.

Click to expand...

I'm a visual learner, and still don't fully get it. Oh well

http://www.fastforward.ca/motormounts/

The bottom part on the first photo goes between the frame rail on a VW Vanagon. Just make this so it goes between the frame rails of your vehicle and the the rest is the same.

Hi David,

I came back to this thread to find some details on the sandwich adapter for the external oil cooler setup. I think I want to add that to my 1Z. I looked and maybe I'm missing where you posted the details. Can you point me or post again?

Much thanks!

Mark

P.S. I have about 70K miles on the swap now and wiring harness has been working perfectly.