2.0 Gen 1 post fix impressions, issues, etc.

Follow Up post: Between 85,xxx (Starting) to-88,300 miles ending on Odometer-



I just got back from a 2 day Birmingham to Denver drive, (Stayed 3 days in Colorado) and then returned back on a 2 day Denver to Birmingham drive.



Total mileage for the trip was 3285 including the 3 days in Colorado.

MPG- for the 3285 miles was 46.8 overall. Instead of doing a tank-by-tank average, I wanted real data for an entire trip. This included city-ish driving in and around Boulder with somewhat long stretches.



My best mileage was on the return trip, 53.9 mpg overall for the 1285 miles home. I broke up the trip over 2 days, and didnt need to fill up after the first 12 hour day. I waited until the fuel light came on early in day 2 before filling up. I hated stopping to use the rest room because I watched my tank range drop sometimes 30-50 miles every time I restarted and returned to the interstate speeds after each stop.



The Trip to Denver averaged 51.7 mpg over 2 tanks. 802 miiles on one tank, 737 on tank 2 (including in-town driving while there)



Driving style: Like a Grandpa on the Interstates- Steady Speed- Air Conditioner on 95 % of the time, Cruise Control- and I Drove EXACTLY the speed limit which was as high as 75 in Colorado and 65 in other places. I was careful not to use Bio-diesel blends, and put 6 oz of Power Service in my tank on each fill.



Tires are at 44 psi, Continental Pure Contact. 18" Tires.



Observations:

The car seems to get the best mileage at 63 mph with cruise on. I ran that speed on 150 miles of a lonely dark stretch of East Colorado highway early in the morning on the day I left, and my instant readout never dropped below 60 mpg. Granted, it may have been somewhat more downhill than uphill as elevation dropped from 5200 ft to 3900 ft at the Kansas border.



Anyway, the fix seems to be good on my car.



It seems to like higher cetane than the usual 4 oz of Power Service with every fill up. I experimented with 6 and 8, and there was a difference between 4 and 6 ozs, but no difference with more than 6.

longer cranking time before start

2009 Jetta CBEA engine ~190,000 miles
I am wondering if anyone else has experienced longer cranking times when starting their TDI after the fix. I didn't notice any difference at first but if I leave the car sit for a day and then go to start it the first start takes 2-3X longer than normal. Normally 1-2seconds to start now when cold it's 5-6s. It's currently parked in an underground lot. Although the outside temp has recently dropped a bit; the temp in the garage hasn't changed much.
I'm concerned because I've never had starting issues even when it's 40 below and not plugged in. I may have to cycle the ignition a few times but it has always started. I don't want to lose any reliability.
MIL is not on and there's no faults when I scan with VCDS
Just looking for everyones thoughts before I go investigating or replacing parts.

trevinator said:

I am wondering if anyone else has experienced longer cranking times when starting their TDI after the fix. I didn't notice any difference at first but if I leave the car sit for a day and then go to start it the first start takes 2-3X longer than normal. Normally 1-2 seconds to start now when cold it's 5-6s.

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I seem to have longer starts, but I also have the CP3 pump and the auxiliary pump was removed in the process so I wondered if it was really because of a difference in the pumps and the routing of the fuel line. In the past, almost always, it started essentially immediately. Now it typically takes bit of cranking to get it to fire up the first time in the morning. After the first start of the day, it starts essentially immediately like it always did.

I'm considering a new battery before the winter just to be on the safe side. I replaced the original battery after about 3-years after I had an issue, so it's been about 5-years now with the same battery. A new battery might not make any difference in the starting speed, but at least I'll feel more confident that my battery can handle a bit of extra cranking.

trevinator said:

2009 Jetta CBEA engine ~190,000 miles
I am wondering if anyone else has experienced longer cranking times when starting their TDI after the fix. I didn't notice any difference at first but if I leave the car sit for a day and then go to start it the first start takes 2-3X longer than normal. Normally 1-2seconds to start now when cold it's 5-6s. It's currently parked in an underground lot. Although the outside temp has recently dropped a bit; the temp in the garage hasn't changed much.
I'm concerned because I've never had starting issues even when it's 40 below and not plugged in. I may have to cycle the ignition a few times but it has always started. I don't want to lose any reliability.
MIL is not on and there's no faults when I scan with VCDS
Just looking for everyones thoughts before I go investigating or replacing parts.

Click to expand...

Sounds like your battery may be on it's last legs. Even if it tests out as ok, it may not be quite enough for the power these cars pull on start up. I'd start there, especially since "winter is coming".

Regens starting early after 90k miles?

Had anybody else noticed this on their car? My 2012 TDI Sportwagon is a bit over 90k miles, and lately I have noticed regens starting when the exhaust temperature is elevated after a short sprint, even though the DPF is only half full, and it had only been about hundred miles since the last regeneration. A few times the DPF load readout stayed alive during the regen, and one could see the load go down to about 3.5 gram, sometimes it behaves like a normal regen, with the readout frozen (at 9 or 11 or whatever gram) until about 70 miles after the regen started. This has happened about five times in the last few months.

I got my car done about 5 months ago and now the car is been back at the VW dealer for and has been for 4 weeks with a regen issues. They replaced the egrs and piping to them however the car still wont regen. Cars performance has been reduced greatly used to get 5 to 6 days out of a tank now I am only getting 3. Commute is around 120 miles a day.

I am highly disappointed with how the VW dealer is handling this regen issues. They have regened the car 4 or 5 times now and still wont replace the DPF (not sure what standard regen amounts are but 5 times seems like a lot). I finally had enough and called VW to see what they will do. They told me they have escalated it to the local VW specialist to help with this issues. We will see what he has to say, and I will keep everyone updated. I am not sure what this means for longevity of the vw motor but I hope it will be just as reliable because I love the TDI.

Just wanted to share my experience since no one else seems to have this issue (as far as I can tell).

got my 2013 sportwagen done yesterday. notice the same as the first post. A little longer shift points , have to put a little more foot into the pedal to get it to go , sounds a lot more like a diesel ( not as loud as my 82 diesel vanagon ..lol) sport mode shifts like D before the mod. already received my $$ from vw and anxiously waiting for my 1099

There is no 1099 on the VW bribe.

nice!

Update from VW

The lady on the phone couldn't give me any information about how or what the process is for regening a car that wont regen. I asked how many times will they continue trying before just replacing parts or figuring out what is wrong. I told her my concerns with the turbo and longevity of the car since regen is normally hard on internals, and she was unable to explain anything about how VW will take care of me if these issues do come about. To add more fuel to the fire she was unable to even explain to me next steps, all she said was they will be in contact with me Thursday of next week to see how its going.

Im not sure if I'm being out of line but I think 6 times to regen a car is a little absurd. Any additional thoughts would be great. The VW dealer said they are seeing this a lot now that cars aren't regening, any post fix people care to note their regen issues?

On a plus I am getting a free oil change in the car since they have been running the car around with the oil change light blinking.

Hey all. I'll try to keep this brief.

2009 Jetta Sportwagen now at 163k on the clock. Had the fix done in Feb. of 2018 and other than a P2457 (heater core and associated pipes) code 1 week post-fix (which I argued was a result of the fix and got it taken care of by VW) all has been good.
I'm having another issue now and I've brought it to the attention of VW based on their extended emission warranty and what is now covered on our cars. Specifically the 2009 model JSW has "Transmission and transmission mechatronic unit" listed as a covered item. Confirmed with VW customer care.

VW says they won't help this time, and I cant totally blame them considering all the other issues they have fixed on this vehicle, but here is the thing...

Car does the thing where it tries to get reverse sometimes and can't quite get there then gives up and goes into limp mode with PRDNS flashing on the MFA.

The other day I got a CEL and I scanned it to reveal P2711 - Unexpected/Implausible gear engagement. No other codes and the CEL self-cleared 2 days later.

The 2009 TDI's apparently get a warranty extension that includes the mechatronic unit and the transmission itself after receiving the fix.

I brought my car back to Fields VW in Dayona Beach after confirming with VW customer care that this is in fact true and my transmission and mechatronic unit are covered until 206k miles (I'm currently at 163k)

They scan it and tell me that VW TSB 30-14-03 says they are to replace the clutches if the trans has more than 19k on it and It's not a warranty item.

VW has fixed NUMEROUS items on this car since before Dieselgate for NOTHING and has done a great service to me and my family, absolutely no complaints, so I'm not fighting their decision not to replace a clutch pack full of friction disks on a trans with 163k miles. that being said....

I've read numerous reports that VW considers these wet clutches good for the life of the vehicle. Some people have thrown the word "lifetime" around. So, what does VW consider to be the "lifetime" of a DSG trans or the clutches? Is it the extended warranty on the OG units to 120k?

It would see to me if my entire transmission is covered under the warranty as well as the mech unit then something not considered "consumable" by the company should be replaced under warranty.

ANyone have a 2009 that had transmission issues post-fix that AREN'T the mech. unit?

Diesl said:

Had anybody else noticed this on their car? My 2012 TDI Sportwagon is a bit over 90k miles, and lately I have noticed regens starting when the exhaust temperature is elevated after a short sprint, even though the DPF is only half full, and it had only been about hundred miles since the last regeneration. A few times the DPF load readout stayed alive during the regen, and one could see the load go down to about 3.5 gram, sometimes it behaves like a normal regen, with the readout frozen (at 9 or 11 or whatever gram) until about 70 miles after the regen started. This has happened about five times in the last few months.

Click to expand...

Yes I noticed. I have EGT monitor and see it spike often above 1200, then it goes back to NORMAL after a few minutes....

Before the fix I got one REGEN every tank (often right after fill up, once every 3.5 weeks or +600 miles). It was obvious the EGT went to +1200 and stayed there for +10 to 15 minutes driving at freeway speeds. That was it. Now I am getting many "mini-Regns". I am assuming the total damage to the turbo (thermal cycles) is about the same as long as I keep driving and let the turbo Temp normalize before shutting down.

Previous long occasional Regns on occasion made me choose to drive past my exit, go down the road 10 minutes and turn around (to avoid a shutting down with turbo cooking). Now I have many shorter mini-Regens. The advantage I suppose is I'm less likely to have to shutdown mid Regn when getting to destination. In the past when one of those +10 minute Regns happened and got to my destination and wanted to shut down, I ran the car to 2100 RPM until EGT dropped (Regen ended). Then I idled until EGT got to 400. The whole process took about 3-4 minutes. I hated smelling that burnt rubber smell after shuttung down in the middle of a Regen....

I guess I can live with these mini Regens... I am not sure what VW is thinking. It could be they realized that people drive short distances and were not getting proper Regens.... so many short Regens is better? May be this improves the emission output?

gmcjetpilot said:

I guess I can live with these mini Regens... I am not sure what VW is thinking.

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I think those new longer and more frequent short regens are NOx regens for our new bigger NOx catalyst after the fix.

ksing44 said:

I think those new longer and more frequent short regens are NOx regens for our new bigger NOx catalyst after the fix.

Click to expand...

For my car, these 'opportunistically started' regens do reduce the DPF soot load, so they are not (just) for the NOx converter. NOx regenerations should still (despite the larger storage converter size) be a lot more frequent than DPF regenerations, shouldn't they?
Often I notice that EGT4, which sits further downstream in the exhaust, will go above 500ºC in the second half of a regeneration; I assume that is for the H2S regeneration.

I have noticed pretty much the same as everyone else except for more reduced mpg's. I was getting about 580 to 600 miles per tank (100 miles/day commute to work) now I am down to about 490-500. Mostly highway driving at 75-80 mph.

"fix" was accomplished last august (17). Was back in a week later for the glow plug control module that was missed during the fix. Was back in about a month later for the EGR cooler, that got replaced as part of the warranty.

I'm still getting a fluid flowing/trickling sound through the dash/heater core and I get a very heavy smell of burning/moth balls in the car during regens. Still eating through coolant as well. Going back to the dealer tomorrow.

Diesl said:

For my car, these 'opportunistically started' regens do reduce the DPF soot load, so they are not (just) for the NOx converter. NOx regenerations should still (despite the larger storage converter size) be a lot more frequent than DPF regenerations, shouldn't they?
Often I notice that EGT4, which sits further downstream in the exhaust, will go above 500ºC in the second half of a regeneration; I assume that is for the H2S regeneration.

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My car seems to be in almost constant regen anymore, not so much the longer DPF types which I think are essentially the same, but the shorter ones that are more frequent and aren't so short anymore. They're opportunistic and come at inopportune times! But I defer to you about the details. You're gathering more information. I simply monitor EGT with my P3Cars gauge.

Update

The car is apparently ready to go. I asked the tech when I called what was wrong and he told me they finally got it to regen. I asked how many time did you regen the car and the response was 3. I know that isnt correct because I called over 4 times and every time they told me it had to go back out for a regen. I then proceed to ask him what was the levels in the dpf before and after regen which he told me its on the RO sheet. I will be calling back tomorrow to talk to the shop foreman to find out the answers since these service techs seem to only know whats on a piece of paper.

I am now not sure what to do going forward is it best to delete and never have to go back or did VW screw up the car so much its worth letting it go back every 4 months for a regen.

My car was fixed on Thursday 9/29/18, and I have a few first thoughts.

The car does do many more very short re gens. I drove the car home with the Torque app running, and saw many very short bumps in the EGT's every 1-2 min driving on the highway. These short EGT bumps lasted for only a few seconds. During highway driving you don't really notice them, but you can feel them driving in the city.

Power wise I didn't really notice any difference.

Engine noise, I also didn't really notice much difference.

the DSG shift RPM's do seem 1-200 higher than before, and the shifts dont seem quite as snappy as before. I also has the DSG fluid flushed during the fix so that could have some affect on that also.

Fuel economy is TBD at this point. In the 4 days I have driven the car, the MPG's have been the same for the most part.

I received the payment transfer email from Chase Bank this morning, and started the process to complete the money transfer.

I noticed others talking about a payment from Bosch. Is this something I will receive? Is there anything that I need to do to get that process started?

No action needed for the Bosch payment. You should just get a check in a month or two.

I just got the fix on my 2010 Jetta Sedan yesterday.

Just going by the invoice they "replaced" the exhaust flap, EGR Filter and the DPF. They also show completing the 24CV Snow Flap Recall and testing on the O2 Sensor.

I was a little surprised by the replacement of so many parts when I was only expecting the software update, sensor testing, and the recall being done. I looked under the car and the exhaust flap does look brand new, but the DPF still looked to be original to me. I'll be putting the car up on ramps this weekend for photo ops, and post back those results.





I had a nice long regen that started the moment I pulled out of the dealership parking lot, and once it stopped I drove around for a while to cool it back down before shutting it off. The only thing I'm noticing (and I consider myself pretty perceptive to this car's behavior) is slightly increased revs between shifts as others have noted. I have no additional engine noise worth mentioning and the power seems the same as before. I will update if I notice any changes and also any fuel economy differences.

cliballe said:

I just got the fix on my 2010 Jetta Sedan yesterday.

Just going by the invoice they "replaced" the exhaust flap, EGR Filter and the DPF. They also show completing the 24CV Snow Flap Recall and testing on the O2 Sensor.

I was a little surprised by the replacement of so many parts...
I had a nice long regen that started the moment I pulled out of the dealership parking lot, and once it stopped I drove around for a while to cool it back down before shutting it off.

Only thing I'm noticing (and I consider myself pretty perceptive to this car's behavior) is slightly increased revs between shifts as others have noted. I have no additional engine noise worth mentioning and the power seems the same as before. I will update if I notice any changes and also any fuel economy differences.

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Replaced the DPF? Hummm that I don't think is normal. Anyone want to chime in.

My DPF was replaced but mine was a 1 piece unit being that I have a 2009. I think if they run the software update and the DPF isn't up to par they opt to replace it. Is your 2010 a very early model? Possible you have a CBEA engine, I thought no 2010s got a CBEA but I could be mistaken.

Teamzarz said:

Is your 2010 a very early model?

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Its build date is 11/2009.

I'll post some photos tomorrow or this weekend. Exhaust flap is definitely new.

More likely than not you have a Gen1 motor with the 1 piece DPF deal.

Okay, so I definitely have the two piece Oxidation Cat/DPF and NOx Cat setup on my particular 2010. There is a V Band clamp between them.

It turns out they in fact replaced the following items for my emissions modification: EGR Filter, NOx Cat/Rear Oxygen sensor (G130), and Exhaust Flap (J883). These are all the items listed on the new under hood emission modification label.

BTW: I am now noticing downshifting to 5th on steep hills while using cruise. Annoying. Think I'll just leave it in Tiptronic mode from now on.

Photos:

New under hood labels




New EGR Filter (note you can tell the Oxidation Cat/DPF/downpipe is still original)


New NOx Cat/Oxygen Sensor (G130)


New Exhaust Flap (J883)

Just got the car back from the dealer said it was fixed. Logged on the way home using vcds and the temps look a tad hot but I cant complain since I havent logged a VW before. Just pulled in the drive and ran a scan of the car and it came up with an error about the EGR.

1 Fault Found:
001025 - EGR System
P0401 - 001 - Insufficient Flow - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 246784 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.02.28
Time: 15:03:42

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1656 /min
Speed: 84.0 km/h
Voltage: 13.98 V
Load: 95.7 %
Load: 100.0 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 370.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 390.0 mg/str

Not sure how to feel about this car runs good so might just let it go for a while

Take it back to the dealer they will fix it. all of it. I had this issue and it was covered.

tylerltr450 said:

[...]
Mileage: 246784 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.02.28
Time: 15:03:42
[...]

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Does this mean this is an old fault from 2013?

No its not from 2013 since I installed a different radio and its throws a backup camera fault and I only did that this year but the error shows 2013 not sure why might have to update vcds or something?

Does the fault come back after you clear it?