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VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old October 5th, 2016, 09:14   #271
Join Date: May 2016
Location: RI

Originally Posted by Thor74 View Post
Quick updated to post 209, RCV replacement on 7/12/16. Still working very well, no issues whatsoever. JSW 2011 70k miles, and replaced using Polar Bear EX019.

I learned a lot from this thread, thanks to all of you who have contributed your posts!
Quick update from July RCV replacement. RC Valve continues to function normally contolling the A/C and that was a big relief during the hot weather in the Northeast US last few months.

Best A/C fix ever. Thanks again!!
Talkbass.com Amps Moderator, gearhead and inveterate DIY'er.
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Old October 12th, 2016, 01:37   #272
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: SG
TDI(s): 2.0

Originally Posted by 79jasper View Post
Without RCV, no cold air.
Even if the bolt thing would work (which it won't) you would still have to recharge the system.
Just spend the extra $50 or so, and throw in a new RCV. If you're so worried about the money, put the old one back in when you go to turn it in, then sell the new one.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Originally Posted by tdiatlast View Post
^^^To sum up what Mike so wisely posted...DON'T DO IT!...seriously...bad idea...
Originally Posted by meerschm View Post
You could find out.

(again, the cost of a replacement valve is not that high.)

best plan would be to replace the valve and see if it fixes the problem.

(assuming your issue is with the valve sticking)

but if you have your heart set on trying something new,

if you take the RCV out (after first recovering the R134a), and remove the center post, manage to re-install the valve properly, vacuum and refill the 134a, the system should operate at maximum displacement.

the car may be a bit harder to start.

this would likely cool the car, but only for a short while. before too long the evaporator will ice up, and no air will flow.

the system on these cars relies on control of the displacement to control pressures

sooner or later, the compressor will increase pressure in the system until something breaks, and then nothing will work at all.

exploding hoses are not funny.

other case is that the low pressure side flow is reduced to vacuum. this is bad because vacuum means no R134a coming in, and no oil coming with it. Lack of oil is not good. compressor can lock up.

The compressor design in these cars always has the shaft rotate.

unless the compressor locks up, then there is a mechanical disconnect (like a fuse) that is designed to break, allowing the pulley to continue to rotate so that the generator works, and the belt is not destroyed. (which could clog up the timing belt and kill your engine.)

how long it would take to break something will depend on how you drive. my guess is you would not get a week out of it.

Tks for all your kind replies. My intention is to try to clean the plunger/spring and so I went ahead & asked my mech to remove the RCV and it looked like this:

Is it possible to remove this end cover and reached the plunger/spring? I tried to knock it out but couldn't.

Last edited by zap11; October 12th, 2016 at 01:40.
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Old October 12th, 2016, 03:48   #273
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Location: Fairfax county VA

does not seem possible to do so. (sure, you could pull it apart, but would not be able to put it back together so that it would work)

some parts are just made to be replaced.

since you are having a mechanic do the work, you are already paying for more than the part costs.

do not drive the car with the RCV out if you ever want the AC to work again without massive expense.

Free advice: it is worth what you pay for it. (sometimes)
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Old May 15th, 2017, 21:34   #274
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Fishers, IN
Default Snap Ring, Bolt or ???

Hi - After reading this entire thread, all indications are that I have the RCV issue. I was excited about the potential of a reasonably priced fix for my tepid/cool AC issue, so I went outside to try to get a decent picture of my compressor and RCV. well, I could not get a shot of the compressor label, but I did get a couple shots of the RCV, and I am confused - I can't tell what kind it is - I don't see the snap clip, I don't see a bolt - Any ideas? What kind is this:


Last edited by EdVinDiesel; May 16th, 2017 at 16:15. Reason: trying to make image larger...
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Old May 16th, 2017, 04:35   #275
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Location: Chapin, South Carolina, USA

That is held on by a bolt, not a snap ring.

Those are terribly small photos.
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Old May 16th, 2017, 08:37   #276
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Nashville, Tennessee
Fuel Economy: 30-35 in town & 35-42.1 on Hwy. This will now change with mods added July-2010

That looks like a Bolt to me too...
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Old May 18th, 2017, 10:50   #277
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Kentucky

After two years of intermittent ac on my 2012 Jetta TDI and only reaching a cool 60 degrees regardless of outside temp, I purchased the RCV and did the repair myself. Now I have ice cold 35-40 degree ac. Rented gauges and pump from Autozone, bought two cans 0f 134a and I was done in four hours that's with a two our vacuum on the system to ensure no leaks. Total cost $83.88, that with a $10.00 finders fee to my granddaughter who found the snap-ring I lost.
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Old May 18th, 2017, 14:21   #278
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Location: Chapin, South Carolina, USA

Great. Young eyes are handy.
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Old June 5th, 2017, 17:20   #279
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SW Ohio

Hello. I've been reading through the threads and really getting good information. My particular problem has me with no cool air at all, all warm. when I look at the compressor, the center never spins at all. Additionally, there is a lot of "gunk" surrounding the center area. I haven't read anything relating a non spinning center with the RCV valve problem. Are these related? 2006 jetta tai
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Old June 6th, 2017, 03:28   #280
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Chapin, South Carolina, USA

That is a sign of a broken "clutch hub", the flimsy metal arms that transfer power from the outside edge of the pulley to the center shaft of the compressor.

It is designed to break away whenever your compressor locks up due to some issue. Sometimes they just fail due to vibration. You cannot tell unless you examine the internals of the compressor.

Most of the time, I would suggest getting another compressor. Inspect the old one and the connections to ensure no metal flakes or particles are in the oil, and the oil is clear, not dark brown or black. If the oil inspection is good, simply replace either the "clutch hub" or the compressor. If the oil is bad, you need to flush the system, at a minimum, as well.
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Old June 15th, 2017, 05:36   #281
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: canada
TDI(s): 2010 jetta

Hi all,

Need a few small clarifications before I go ahead with an RCV replacement.

I'm confused which valve I need. 2010 Jetta TDI, my compressor says PXE14, and model 1701P. What is the 'P'? I know I need the snap style (not bolt on style) from looking at it, and the popular choice as per this thread seems to be the EX019 from polarbearinc.

But, their site also lists EX030 for the PXE14 1701, but no mention of 1701P in anything I've seen. The dimensions of the EX030 and EX019 are slightly different as per https://www.polarbearinc.com/rcv_gal...nal_chart.html

Moreover, looking on amazon.ca from the looks of it valves that come up seem to look longer, similar to the EX030 and less like the EX019.

Will either work, or do I need specifically one of these and not the other?
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Old June 15th, 2017, 05:45   #282
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Location: Charlotte, NC
Fuel Economy: 55 max / 44 avg on beetle ~37 on JSW

Not a lot of help but the letter at the end (p in this case) usually indicates a new generation of part. May not be any substantial changes but just enough that they need to mark it.
2010 silver/black JSW TDI with DSG, 2011 red Golf TDI with dsg, 2003 red/gray Passat 1.8l gasser
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Old June 15th, 2017, 06:47   #283
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: canada
TDI(s): 2010 jetta

Thanks, kjclow.

I also just got off the phone with a very helpful rep at polar bear inc who immediately knew the way to tell what I needed. The EX030 has a square post, EX019 has a round post. Now, time to get shoulder deep in my hood and feel around.
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Old August 11th, 2017, 15:15   #284
Sky King
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pearl River, LA
Fuel Economy: Under 40 with the Cam upgrade and Malone Tune

I'm not so sure it's the valve on my 2006 Beetle. 70psi suction at idle and about 210 on the high side. Thoughts ?? 190k miles.
I am tempted to replace that valve but I'm just not sure
http://www.idparts.com/ac-compressor-a4-p-1009.html Is This compressor any good?
2006 Beetle TDI

Last edited by Sky King; August 11th, 2017 at 15:29.
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Old August 13th, 2017, 06:25   #285
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Location: Chapin, South Carolina, USA

I would replace the RCV and the TCV (temperature control valve at the firewall.)

What are the pressures after 2 minutes at 2000 rpm, with the cabin fan at speed 2?
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