Front crankshaft seal...Oh no...

on the plus 90 step (oops, been doing mine plus 180) the torque goes up to about a zillion ft/lbs
if the motor is moving, weld a pipe to your counterhold tool and put a pipe on your breaker bar
get one in each hand and push them together.

Go with pipes that are as long as you can fit in the space available. 10' works nicely, as then you aren't putting a ton of force on the working end, so you don't bang your hands together when it does let go (or the square drive twists off your breaker bar)

when you do get it apart you'll see that there's nowhere for water to get in to actually rust the bolt (also nowhere for oil to get in, so save the spray oil for another bolt) it is just THAT tight

Well, good news. On a whim, I went out and decided to try the impact on it. Gave it a pulse 5 or so times and out it came. If that isn't a testimonial for the Rigid Octane electric impact, I don't know what is. Wasn't expecting it to work, honestly. Ok, I was going to try and pull the seal with the drywall screw technique and then purchase the $20 install tool unless someone advises against it. The cost of the removal tool is a bit much for me. I'll post the style of seal I have from the kit a bit later in case it affects advice on how to approach it. I've heard discussion of an old vs newer style seal-Not sure which one I was sent. Thanks folks!

intro said:

Hmmmmmm, maybe it's just different enough that I didn't notice it. So it's a notch not a zero?

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Here's the TDC mark on my LuK flywheel from the 17-050 kit. Green paint marker done by me (human eyes are most sensitive to green). Always gotta think of the poor bastard who has to touch it next, unfortunately it is usually me.

Thanks for the close-up.

scurvy said:

Here's the TDC mark on my LuK flywheel from the 17-050 kit. Green paint marker done by me (human eyes are most sensitive to green). Always gotta think of the poor bastard who has to touch it next, unfortunately it is usually me.

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Good news.. glad you got it broke loose.

Now, before going back together (with a new bolt), you will need to improve your counter-hold tool, otherwise, you'll probably not be able to torque it properly.

Just click on Survy's pic. It will take you to his photo gallery and show you a close-up!

Anyone have a suggestion on where to drill and screw in the drywall screws to pull out the seal? This is the type of seal. Looks to be the same as what's in there now. Don't see any teflon.

AndyBees said:

Now, before going back together (with a new bolt), you will need to improve your counter-hold tool, otherwise, you'll probably not be able to torque it properly.

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Here's my counter-hold tool used when torquing the flywheel bolts:

Haha. Ideally, I'm not cracking the transmission.

scurvy said:

Here's my counter-hold tool used when torquing the flywheel bolts:

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I drilled a tiny hole on each side of the seal and then install the two screws at 9 and 3. Then, I use an L-iron to pry on the head of the screws to remove the seal.

Edit: Scurvy, that method to hold the crankshaft works just fine, if you have the transmission out!

Edit: Intro, I suggest that you clean the area around the seal before you remove it. Carb cleaner, brake cleaner, etc...

For future reference: Not a bad price. After the hole cutting bit, steel stock, and new titanium bits, plus the cost of a new sprocket, might have been a better choice, plus they are local to me: https://www.idparts.com/crankshaft-counter-hold-tool-p-6246.html

Unfortunately, the cheapest I can find the install tool is through VW/Snap-on at $39, and it would probably take longer to get here. ECS and FCP Euro aren't restocking it until August 9th. I chatted with Andrea from IDParts and she was really helpful, advised me to either go with the old spring style seal or just press the newer style in with a socket, that's what she's seen most people do. They don't carry the tool. I'm pretty confident I can get it in there square enough but there's a part of me that worries the seal will fold over. Has anyone used this cheapo from Harbor Freight? https://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-seal-driver-kit-35555.html. I'm wondering if just grabbing the correct size bolt and a large washer would achieve the same result.

It's times like these I feel like I should just sell the fleet and get a car payment.
It looks like I nicked the crank on the left side while removing the old seal, most likely the screw I was using was too big or too far over to the center.
Can I still get a good seal there or is this a lost cause? It's right on the lip but it looks worse in the picture, I can feel the gouge with my finger. Is it far enough forward that it won't interfere with the seal? It seems like most of the sealing is done in the second "lip" further back, just a surface scratch there. If it is too damaged or in a bad location, is it possible to put a metal sleeve on it? Push the seal further in? JB Weld? Is my anxiety showing>?

Looking at the new seal, the way it is seated on the crank MAY put it out of harm's way. Not sure. The marring closest to me (which is deeper) looks like it will rest right inside the pocket of the inside rubber flap, the bottom of which it seems gets tucked into that next groove with the smaller scratch-So that's probably the one I need to worry about, yes? The flap is referred to as a dust cover by Elring, I'm wondering if it that piece is even responsible for sealing. Also, I noticed this seal does have a silver coil along the inside. Does that mean it's the old style seal that I should grease up? Wondering about applying sealant as an extra precaution.

Better lighting here:

I wouldn't use the axle as a stop for the crank holder - I would think it would be damaged pretty easily (hollow, correct?). Use the subfame - crank holder doesn't need to be center on the crank.

I can't see the picture of the nick that well, but I'd just hit it with some scotch brite, etc to take any burrs off.

gforce1108 said:

I wouldn't use the axle as a stop for the crank holder - I would think it would be damaged pretty easily (hollow, correct?). Use the subfame - crank holder doesn't need to be center on the crank.

I can't see the picture of the nick that well, but I'd just hit it with some scotch brite, etc to take any burrs off.

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Is it OEM that are hollow and aftermarket solid? I can't remember. I think one is one of the cheaper solid ones, can't recall which side, I'd have to take a look. I'll keep what you're saying in mind though, thanks.

Solid or not, it's a bad idea to brace that counter hold on it. I could see it deforming the axle flange and/or bolts easily. It's not meant to take that kind of pressure, and it's not necessary anyway.

Update. So I took a nail file and deburred that tiny bit of damage. I may go in with some 1200 grit wet sanding later to polish it a bit. I can feel a slight indentation when I run my finger along that scratch but it's much, much better. This may sound stupid, but if someone with a good understanding of how this seal works could please break it down for me: obviously the threaded portion of the crank turns, driving that harmonic balancer, does the part I'm cleaning up turn as well and rub up against the seal? From what I can tell, looking at the seal, it is only the "dust cover" flap that rides on that lip with the scratch. I think it will be smooth enough to not damage the seal but would it make sense to put a dab of rtv silicone there after pressing in the seal? Also, if anyone can confirm I have the old style seal? Does the seal conform to the shape? It has a little spring like ring along the inside, I'm guessing to squeeze itself onto the lip? Does this require the special tool or can I just tap it in? Thanks for your patience answering my questions folks.

I think you are giving the burr about all the attention it needs.

The entire crankshaft rotates.

I've always installed the seal and never gave it a second thought. Generally, by the time I finish the TB job and other stuff, the seal has set long enough to take the shape if that is a requirement. I've never had one to leak..

Seems the first one I installed, I did put oil or grease on it. Learned later that I shouldn't have done that .. oh, well, but it never leaked. No, I do not remember if it was an OE style or something updated.

Dumb question time...

Back on page one AndyBees said don't use an impact gun for removal/installation of the crank bolt. I understand why you wouldn't use it for installation, but why not removal?