Going back in time, or how I am re-living my youth! (1971 Beetle)

aja8888

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That would have gone to a dashpot on the carburetor, I think it was to "soften" the throttle stop. There would have been another vacuum line to the device on the carb as well.
https://www.google.com/search?q=197...hXL8YMKHaYZCWEQ_AUIBigB#imgrc=BfANK7kWHN-sEM:
Looking at the photo you indicates my car had the same setup as the larger hose in the upper left going to the air cleaner has been sliced off at the tar board and that probably came from the missing charcoal canister. Strangely, the air cleaner I have, which looks OE, does not have a nipple for that cut off hose. I wonder if my car, titled as a 1971, is of California vintage (I have no history) as Bentley indicates that "early" Super's had more advanced controls in California?

My car has a 1972 steering column, wheel and electrics and it appears it was installed at one time as the brown (positive) horn wire is not exiting the column and must have been cut off somewhere (aftermarket button and wiring for the horn).

The engine on the car is an AK variety and that is 1973 production.

On another note, the Bosch 009 distributor that is installed in my Beetle is a mechanical advance only variety and the car has a flat spot just past idle. I found a guy on the Samba that reconditions OE distributors to "new" specs and he is making a vacuum advance one for me from a stock core ,which the engine should have had originally.

Getting good OE parts for these cars is a freakin nightmare, or even good quality parts made for the south of the border VW's when they were produced. I have already seen the "ultimate" in Chinese junk for the few purchases I have made. It's like buying from Proth on a national level through scores of outlets!
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
You're not lying about the Chinesium garbage out there. Seems they'll tool up to make anything. :rolleyes:


There were all kinds of running changes 1970-74, and there were some CA-only things thrown in there too.

It is pretty typical for these to have become a bit of a butchered frankenstein mess of hodge podge parts. Lots of folks used things interchangeably without actually taking the time to figure out what was really the same, and what was different.

Going from memory:

Your 1971 should have an AE engine code, which is a 1.6L (1600) dual port engine, with flat top pistons, big head studs, no "case savers", doghouse oil cooler, early type 34mm Solex carb, a generator, an oil bath air cleaner, and an "open" breather system (aka the draft tube).

I am not 100% certain on the changes to the evap system, but pretty sure your car should have three hoses to the canister in the RR fender well. The small one is from the tank in front, the two large ones are the air flow purging tubes. One comes from the fan shroud, where a small portion of the engine cooling fan's air blows out, through the hose, through the canister, and then out of the canister back into the air cleaner assembly inlet tube.

Essentially the canister "traps" any fumes, then when the engine is started they are pushed through and into the engine to be burned. Pretty simple system, but these often get hacked off and/or forgotten about.

The 009 distributor was a common power mod way back when, it was essentially taken from the Transporters. But the advance curve is pretty awful right off idle, and can cause that dreaded flat spot if the engine is maybe under carb'd or not timed correctly. The best way I can tell you to time them that works well is to run the engine at 2500 RPMs, and time it so that the mark lands right where the belt meets the pulley on the lefthand (advanced) side of the engine. Disregard trying to set it at idle. And for the 009 to work with a stock carb, you'll need to have the base idle a bit on the high side. The vacuum advance really works better, and some engines got the retarder side too that was run directly to manifold vacuum. This was really more of an emissions control device more than any, as it pushed the advance plate full retard when the throttle was snapped closed. But those were not really used when there was a damper on the throttle linkage keeping it from snapping all the way closed anyways.

Much of the little emissions "tweaks" that they did in the early '70s had very little impact overall, and often ended up causing more problems than it solved. One of which is the 34mm carb, which while bigger than the 30mm it replaced (the one used on the single port 1500 and 1600 engines) it got an extra, separate idle circuit that was smaller. Which, when in perfect working order, meant those bigger carbs fed less fuel into the engine when under light load and at idle. Which was great for fuel economy, except the pilot circuit was SO small that they plugged up easily, causing them to run lean and sag and misfire at light loads. A common trick was to drill out that jet a bit, to allow a fatter mixture down low. This issue can compound the 009 problem, and make for a pretty poor running engine.

One of the popular VW magazines had a GREAT article years back about going through the 34 carb and fixing its shortcomings. In general it is a decent setup, and simple.

Another thing to look for, and likely not much of an issue in your neck of the woods, but can cause lots of cold weather problems is the heat riser tube clogging up and causing a no-flow of exhaust through under the intake manifold. Of course, when people put "headers" on these engines, even though the pipes allowed for the heat riser to attach, they did not flow at all, and caused them to clog up in short order.

Gosh, thinking of all this makes me like the '75-up L-jet Beetles so much more. Even though they were a bit clunky due to tight real estate in the engine bay, they did work well in that they always started right up hot or cold, never a flat spot or anything at all like that, and were reasonably simple even if a lot of people were perplexed by them at the time. Of course, the rest of the engine was so detuned by then they really were no peppier, and they were not at all responsive to any power mods, mainly due to the fact they used the same size valves as the 1200cc 40hp engines. :p
 

aja8888

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So far, mine is a 1971 titled SB (flat windshield/flat dash) with a 1973 (AK version) 1600 CC engine, dual port heads, manual transmission, with a 1972 Steering column and steering wheel. I believe it was first sold in California based on the emission equipment info out of the Bentley.

Rust wise, it's not bad structurally and still has the "death foam" in place. I plan to rip that out once I get the engine out to replace the clutch, transmission mounts, etc, etc. I'm leaning toward rebuilding the engine also.

I've been blessed with the Bocar (Mexican) 34 PICT - 3 carb and have read numerous articles about how to tune it to run with the 009 distributor.

I have torn it down (three times now) and carefully made modifications such as close up the 1/8" diameter hole in the throttle plate (with solder) to increase vacuum at idle and tweaked the Pilot jet a bit. One tweak that seemed to help with adjusting the idle is to slightly loosen the pilot jet to get it off its seat to allow more flow at idle. I did that and found it to be good. All of this is "for now" though :D. (this is not a long term solution)

Interestingly, you can still buy new jets for these carburetors. :cool:

Another problem with these carburetors is worn throttle shafts and that can be remedied thru a fellow in the state of Washington who has a business refurbishing this and other VW/Porche carbs. He is not inexpensive, but is very good.

If I really end up liking this car, and can get through the frustration of bringing it back to a respectable condition, I may replace the Bocar with a refurbished Solex 34 series carb, like it should have on it.

Actually, none of this stuff is inexpensive if you are into a quality refurb or just trying to maintain a Beetle or Bus to a high, original standard. Try buying an OE fender in any condition (if you can find one). New, Taiwan-stamped fenders are paper thin, the bolt holes sometimes don't match up and the bumper cutouts are usually off a good bit from where they should be.

I have one fender (RR) where the bondo is falling out do to poor prep work which is a continuation of the shoddy work done by an owner I'm guessing 5 years ago. I hope the fender is OE so I can repair it. Bondo is popping out of a few places in the hood, also.

You mention the later SB's. We had a 75 - 77 one when the kids were young and I loved that car. I sold in when we lived in California (1985 or so) and we needed a bigger car. We ended up with an Aerostar van for a while. That Beetle was bulletproof from what I can remember.

On another note, sellers are getting nutty money for top end VW Buses there days and I mean well over $100 K!!
 

bbarbulo

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you're not kidding about the parts quality out there. I got a non-VDO fuel sender and it was just a bundle of wire, not even neatly wrapped like the original was. but the original burned up... so for the time being I guess 'some' fuel level reading is better than none at all. the good news is, at least there are parts out there.
 

pdq import repair

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It is even hard to find good quality parts for the later models, luckily on late stuff you can get dealer parts. I used to trust some names in the past that I avoid now due to chinese or just plain poor quality sourcing. Meyle used to be german parts from a german company, but that has sure changed. Dorman used to have a pretty good line of parts, no more.

I buy more and more dealer direct parts, including batteries on the late BMW and Mercedes and upmarket VW and Audi.

I buy a lot of parts in a month and one company I use is a national wholesale chain with warehouses all over the country. When you return unused parts to them they have a drop down list for reasons for return that you are supposed to pick your reason, or type in your own words. I petitioned for them to put in a reason to save me time and trouble typing it every time. I wanted them to add "Cheap Chinese crap that i will never reorder" as a reason for return. I have not seen it appear yet.

I have a friend who I have been buying VW parts from at the dealership for over 30 years. He is nearly done with restoration on a Ghia and a 66 beetle. He has scoured all the swap meets and enthusiast clubs and followed any lead he can to get "real" parts for his restorations. It has taken him years.

I am trying the same route on my 68 and type 4. I am happy to find good used, or new old stock parts as the new stuff is hardly worth the trouble anymore. I have seen to many paper fenders and self igniting electrical parts.
 

aja8888

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Nice sales lead in to a Chinese copied SVDA:

"SVDA Distributor, 034 Vacuum Advance Import Version (Economy Model) is a economy SVDA from China which we carry for guys that do not have the money for the genuine (supplier) SVDA. The build quality isn't as good as the (seller) SVDA or the Pertronix ones, but this is a lot less $! The cap and rotor look "cheap", but the rest is not bad at all.

Price: $89.95
On Sale!: $79.95

PN: SVDA-IMPORT

Final Sale Item Agreement

I AGREE TO NON RETURNABLE TERMS FOR THIS ITEM (non-returnable/NO WARRANTY).

FINAL SALE ITEM TERMS AND CONDITIONS
Upon shipment of this item, your purchase is FINAL - the item is NON-RETURNABLE.
"


Oh, BTW, the Seller-furnished (either VW or Mexican) SVDA'a are not available anymore.
 

aja8888

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you're not kidding about the parts quality out there. I got a non-VDO fuel sender and it was just a bundle of wire, not even neatly wrapped like the original was. but the original burned up... so for the time being I guess 'some' fuel level reading is better than none at all. the good news is, at least there are parts out there.
BTW, my fuel sender (tank floats - 2 arms on the SB) is shot too. Can't source a VDO one either, and holding off on ordering a cheap copy.
 

aja8888

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Fuel Tank Sending Unit-VDO Fuel Tank Sender WD Express 113 919 051 F

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-S...ash=item25ca6ce7bd:g:yGMAAOSw3KFWfgj4&vxp=mtr

the price on this and the description seem to point to a VDO unit. Normally $110 or more but on backorder everywhere.

the 'reproduction quality' stuff is about $40 bucks... so good chance this is an actual VDO part.
Thanks, I am surprised they can get actual VDO parts when all other suppliers cannot. I called JBugs about a fuel sender and some other parts I plan to order after returning some Chinese junk to them that did not work out of the box and they said they cannot get VDO fuel senders.

I looked at this supplier's eBay "store" and 90% of what they are selling is Empi which we know is pretty poor quality. Not saying the fuel sender is Empi, though,

I might just take a chance with one of the Mexican fuel senders rather than get this, but thanks for looking out for me!

I could use all the help I can get!!:D
 

aja8888

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found one in stock, but 260 EURO!!! *faint*
Looks like I'll go with the south American version. I'm building up an order to place with JBugs right now. Once I have a look at the shift bushing in the tunnel (very sloppy shifter) and pull the front brake drums to inspect what's left of the shoes, I'll have enough parts to order to get free shipping.

What do you Beetle owners think about front disc brake conversion kits? Are they worth it given the increased stopping advantage, or are properly installed drums brakes sufficient these days? This car doesn't stop too well and pulls to the right a bit, although I have only driven it less than a mile since getting it running.
 

pdq import repair

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The front disks are a good upgrade, rear disks are just bling.

Last one we did front disk brakes and cut one coil off the front springs to drop it just a little and stiffen it up. Worked quite well and almost completely eliminated the "super beetle shake", and looked good too as the front of the super is a little high for my liking, even being old school and hating the slammed look.
 

bbarbulo

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I have disk brakes in the front and like them. But I've had them the whole time so I don't know what the immediate change is. I've worked on my rear drums and buddy's front drums, I don't mind them. If you don't drive hard, drums when properly set up are very good.

I wouldn't necessarily rush to change them over but if you are looking at say $150 in drum parts, then disks at $250 kinda seem like a deal.

The bushing in the tunnel, inspect before you order parts. I have a loose shifter and was replacing the coupling and found the play was inside the transmission. So I have to drop the trans to fix that.
 

aja8888

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I have disk brakes in the front and like them. But I've had them the whole time so I don't know what the immediate change is. I've worked on my rear drums and buddy's front drums, I don't mind them. If you don't drive hard, drums when properly set up are very good.
I wouldn't necessarily rush to change them over but if you are looking at say $150 in drum parts, then disks at $250 kinda seem like a deal.
The bushing in the tunnel, inspect before you order parts. I have a loose shifter and was replacing the coupling and found the play was inside the transmission. So I have to drop the trans to fix that.
I pulled the shifter tonight and saw the bushing is gone. I mean not there. The ring clip is around the shaft so the bushing must have fallen apart and fell in the tunnel. I pulled the rod forward after decoupling the transmission.

The rear of the tunnel is full of what looks like an abandoned mouse nest. How the hell did mice get in this tunnel? :confused:

I need to order all new parts (bushing, clip, trans coupler, etc,). It's a royal pain in the @$$ working in the tunnel area, especially for my old bones. :mad:

Seems like everything I touch, it's either not done or was 1/2 done. In this case, the guy who restored this car just ignored the very loose shifter issue.
 

pdq import repair

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"restorations" normally are that way. People have the best of intentions at first and either lack the ability or funds to do it right. Often times the car gets disassembled far more than it needed to be and parts and hardware get lost.

I have had many come in for just one thing, like "just get it to start and run, I will do the rest." Sure we make run again but the screw that holds the ignition switch (chinese) is missing as is the other steering column switch bolts and spacers so it is not exactly driveable even if you ignore the lack of brakes. Sure enough it is trailered in later with a ticket for "make the lights operate." or something like that. Well the door fell apart as we tried to open it so we had to fix the door to even get inside the car, pieces missing and assembled wrong again.

I am very glad to see someone doing it right, it is not that hard to do if you keep your wits about you and don't bite off more than you can chew at any one time. Do one or two projects at a time and do them well, then move on.

Keep at it and it will give you great pleasure to drive once complete. Plus the fact that it is a great feeling to drive and enjoy something that you have some sweat equity in.
 

aja8888

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"restorations" normally are that way. People have the best of intentions at first and either lack the ability or funds to do it right. Often times the car gets disassembled far more than it needed to be and parts and hardware get lost.
I have had many come in for just one thing, like "just get it to start and run, I will do the rest." Sure we make run again but the screw that holds the ignition switch (chinese) is missing as is the other steering column switch bolts and spacers so it is not exactly driveable even if you ignore the lack of brakes. Sure enough it is trailered in later with a ticket for "make the lights operate." or something like that. Well the door fell apart as we tried to open it so we had to fix the door to even get inside the car, pieces missing and assembled wrong again.
I am very glad to see someone doing it right, it is not that hard to do if you keep your wits about you and don't bite off more than you can chew at any one time. Do one or two projects at a time and do them well, then move on.
Keep at it and it will give you great pleasure to drive once complete. Plus the fact that it is a great feeling to drive and enjoy something that you have some sweat equity in.
It sounds like you have seen what I am dealing with, although this car was "running" before it sat for a year. You pegged it when you said the person who restored it had good intentions then failed to follow through.

My plan continues to be working off a list of things to do, which I have done, then nail them down one at a time and move to the next item on the list. Right now I have 20 or so items on that list, and I started with 10, and completed four. Sooner or later, I expect the list to go down instead of growing. Fortunately, I have the time and funds to make this car into a nice driver. :)
 

bbarbulo

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Windsor, ON, Canada
'time and funds' at the same time is a luxury few ever have. or when they do, sometimes they lack motivation.

LOL you think your shift tunnel situation is bad? Try this one; the body guy bondo'd over the access panel and painted the car. So if I ever need to get in there, I have to repaint that area.

It doesn't matter to me, I'll deal with what I can from the opposite end. The paint is too nice now to mess with, but I do want to strip the car down the road and do it correctly. But that's about 6 cars down my list of 'cars I own that I need to paint'.

Lastly, I did ask those ebay guys WDExpress about your fuel sender. Their reply leads me to think IT IS a VDO part!! If I was you, I'd hold out for this one over the Mexican one, even though the Mexican would probably be fine too (better than my Taiwan one anyways). The fact they're having trouble restocking them leads me to think it's VDO!!

Here is the email I got in reply to my question:



eBay
New message from: worldquestauto Top Rated Seller(17,877YellowShooting Star)
We are out of stock at the moment on this item, so I cannot verify for sure. I believe it was VDO reboxed by WD Express, but not sure. We are having trouble restocking them at the moment.
Reply
Your previous message

Is this an actual VDO sender? What is the country of origin?

Fuel Tank Sending Unit-VDO Fuel Tank Sender WD Express 113 919 051 F

 

aja8888

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'time and funds' at the same time is a luxury few ever have. or when they do, sometimes they lack motivation.

LOL you think your shift tunnel situation is bad? Try this one; the body guy bondo'd over the access panel and painted the car. So if I ever need to get in there, I have to repaint that area.

It doesn't matter to me, I'll deal with what I can from the opposite end. The paint is too nice now to mess with, but I do want to strip the car down the road and do it correctly. But that's about 6 cars down my list of 'cars I own that I need to paint'.

Lastly, I did ask those ebay guys WDExpress about your fuel sender. Their reply leads me to think IT IS a VDO part!! If I was you, I'd hold out for this one over the Mexican one, even though the Mexican would probably be fine too (better than my Taiwan one anyways). The fact they're having trouble restocking them leads me to think it's VDO!!

Here is the email I got in reply to my question:



eBay
New message from: worldquestauto Top Rated Seller(17,877YellowShooting Star)
We are out of stock at the moment on this item, so I cannot verify for sure. I believe it was VDO reboxed by WD Express, but not sure. We are having trouble restocking them at the moment.
Reply
Your previous message

Is this an actual VDO sender? What is the country of origin?

Fuel Tank Sending Unit-VDO Fuel Tank Sender WD Express 113 919 051 F

Yes, 45+ years of hard work and savings got me to the point of where I have the time and funds to fix up an old VW.

I am having trouble with motivation to crawl under the car to remove a plate that will allow me to pull out the shift rod. Apparently, flat windshield Super's (1971 & 1972) still need to have the bar removed to give enough clearance to get the "cheepo" nylon shift rod bushing in place so that the rod can go back in. Because the car has a horizontal spare compartment, there is no access from the front panel (aka, your painted access cover location). This week's work will include the removal and cleaning of the shift rod when the motivation occurs.

I wish there was a OEM shift rod bushing available (I searched) as the Chinese replacements are reported to only last a short time, according to the Samba threads. Great....:(

Thanks for the info on the fuel sender. But none in stock is not good news. Fortunately, the sender is a few minute job to replace, unlike anything in the tunnels.

Speaking of the tunnel area, the original fuel line tubing in mine looks good (visually) so I wonder why the previous owner ran a new line along the outside of the floor pans and under the tunnel center where the transmission mounts. I'd love to get rid of that new fuel line as I have visions of it getting whacked by road debris and causing the car to burn to a crisp as raw fuel spreads all over the heat exchangers. I'll have to see if the OE line is just plugged and try to clean it out. I'm convinced the body was off this car at one time so it's a mystery as to why none of this stuff was handled properly at that time.
 
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aja8888

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Today I am working on the driver's door which apparently held water during a rainstorm as I was told. Took it apart and it looks like it had recent work such as a new regulator, window tracks and a door panel. Looks like the door panel is shot and the door drain holes were plugged with old debris (why did the original restorer not clean it out when rebuilding the door?). Some pics:

Ruined door panel (you can't just buy one):



Hornets nest:



Rusty inner door near drains:



The whole door opening:



Looks like I have to figure out how to make a new door panel backing.

Question: what's the best way to get that felt window track to stay in its metal channel?
 
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bbarbulo

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Windsor, ON, Canada
The felt channel is supposed to have u shaped clips with teeth in it, those go into the metal channel and the felt goes into the clips and channel. Does that make any sense? I had to remove most of mine when I changed the window felt since the new felt was thicker and the window wouldn't roll... Didn't matter, I still stripped my brand new regulator. $300 German seal kit :-[
 

bbarbulo

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...these guys!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Cooled-VW-Beetle-Felt-Channel-Clips-50-79-/170847268800


as for the door panel, stupid easy to do! get some hardboard from home depot, peel off your door covering, trace to the hardboard and go to town with a jigsaw and a stepped drill bit where needed. if there are odd shapes that you need to cut that neither a jigsaw nor drill would do, use a file to get the shape, of if you're so equipped, use one of those rotary drywall cutter tools (like a router with a sidecutter bit).




when done, hit the edges with some 120 grit to round them a bit. then some 3M Super 77 contact cement from Home Depot, apply to both sides, wait till tacky, and smash 'em together :) j/k... dry fit the skin to your new backing, make sure all the right holes line up perfectly. Then start at the most critical holes and apply super 77 to a small area of both, when tacky, lay the skin on the backing and work the material. Then do another small section outwards, same process... spray, wait to dry, stick together. Don't be tempted to do the whole thing at once. I wasted much contact cement doing it this way, thinking I could lay out a large area at once. Just do a couple square feet at a time. Use old pizza savers (those standoffs that come on your pizza in the middle) to ensure the two don't stick to each other till they're tacky and you're ready for them to stick together permanently.
 
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aja8888

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...these guys!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Cooled-VW-Beetle-Felt-Channel-Clips-50-79-/170847268800


as for the door panel, stupid easy to do! get some hardboard from home depot, peel off your door covering, trace to the hardboard and go to town with a jigsaw and a stepped drill bit where needed. if there are odd shapes that you need to cut that neither a jigsaw nor drill would do, use a file to get the shape, of if you're so equipped, use one of those rotary drywall cutter tools (like a router with a sidecutter bit).




when done, hit the edges with some 120 grit to round them a bit. then some 3M Super 77 contact cement from Home Depot, apply to both sides, wait till tacky, and smash 'em together :) j/k... dry fit the skin to your new backing, make sure all the right holes line up perfectly. Then start at the most critical holes and apply super 77 to a small area of both, when tacky, lay the skin on the backing and work the material. Then do another small section outwards, same process... spray, wait to dry, stick together. Don't be tempted to do the whole thing at once. I wasted much contact cement doing it this way, thinking I could lay out a large area at once. Just do a couple square feet at a time. Use old pizza savers (those standoffs that come on your pizza in the middle) to ensure the two don't stick to each other till they're tacky and you're ready for them to stick together permanently.
Thanks for the tips and the link to the felt channel clips. I guess the original owner who restored the door didn't put any clips in? (go figure). I'll order enough to do both doors (12).
 

aja8888

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<--- living vicariously through others.

Keep up the great work Tony.
Thanks, Tim.

This project is more involved that it looked on the surface. It's a simple car, and relatively easy to work on, but undoing the work of previous owners and dealing with junk Chinese parts is frustrating. But, I have the time and still have my 03 Jetta to drive. :D
 

whitedog

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To me it seems the harder part is dealing with the CRAP parts. Undoing the work is just knuckle down, buckle down and do it, do it ,do it.
 

bbarbulo

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even the crap parts isn't so bad. just more time consuming since you have to rebuild what original stuff you have, modify to fit what aftermarket stuff you have to buy, and spend months searching for original parts. but the result is worthwhile.

for example, there are guys that rewind the original fuel senders. the wire is just a 'ohm per foot' value, so you get the right thickness and space your windings like stock and you should be pretty close to VDO specs. I looked at doing that, but when I pulled the sender everything was burned to a crisp, the backer board was hardly even there. makes me wonder how it didn't all catch fire being inside the tank and all...
 

aja8888

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bbarbulo, incidentally, the fuel sender I took out of my tank was a replacement unit that failed. I think I need a new fuel gauge, too, as grounding the sender hot lead does not take the gauge to full, like in the test procedure. I might just go ahead and order the vibrator (voltage regulator) that attaches on the back of the gauge, also, then I have ALL new Chinese parts in the system. :D

Since I am changing the shift rod bushing, we know what a PIA that job can be and all that the suppliers sell is low quality nylon bushings. After reading two dozen threads on the Samba going back a decade or so on this bushing replacement procedure and how the job turned out, I find that some (the ones that reported) replacement bushings only lased a couple of thousand miles. Not good news.:(

Fearing I am faced with the same fate, I poked around the classified this weekend and found an OE German shift rod bushing for sale by a seller selling a huge stock of old parts. I quickly grabbed it and it will be mailed to me Monday. These are known to last a good long time so I will put the OE one in even though I have a knock off coming in my recent parts order.

I think I am having fun, otherwise, and working on this keeps me engaged like a newly retired old dog needs to be. :cool:
 
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