flee
Veteran Member
That photo does not open on my computer. Like I said, you can feel the scratch if it's there.Hey flee, did you manage to look at the picture? Just wondering if what you say is based on the picthanks man you are very helpful
Runaway TDi Any assistance is appreciated!
- Thread starter Matty
- Start date
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Wha photo?
Matty
Active member
https://imgur.com/a/7fgISZ6 does it work if you use the link?
flee
Veteran Member
Yes, that works. I can see no damage in that particular photo.
But a photo would not show a scratch that you can feel.
The bore should be perfectly smooth everywhere but the very top ridge.
That is always rough from residue above the piston rings.
You should have your mechanic check the piston protrusion to
see if there's a bent rod while the engine is in the car, too.
But a photo would not show a scratch that you can feel.
The bore should be perfectly smooth everywhere but the very top ridge.
That is always rough from residue above the piston rings.
You should have your mechanic check the piston protrusion to
see if there's a bent rod while the engine is in the car, too.
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BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Thing looks ratty to me, but I'm not a mechanic.
Can everyone see the photo now?
https://imgur.com/a/7fgISZ6
Can everyone see the photo now?
https://imgur.com/a/7fgISZ6
Matty
Active member
If you look on the edges the black that looks like shadow is actually like worn down, yea I'm contemplating taking off the oil pan and taking out the pistons myself the weekend since it doesn't turn at all at the moment..will let you all know what I find by feeling tomorrow, I work shifts so a weekend is a blessing
Matty
Active member
I've come to realise that you are referring to the block that doesn't look damaged, okay so if that is the case then I would only need to change the pistons and conrods?
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Realizing conditions are different around the world, if you were here, you'd be better off with a donor car/engine. But it may be more efficient to repair where you're at.
Matty
Active member
You are probably right with it being cheaper/easier to replace the engine but it's hard to find an ahf most have been reconditioned and in that case it's the same as what my engine will be after some work I assume.. but I would have to go through police clearance and change it at the traffic department etc, seems like a bit of a mission and hopefully I won't have a worst case scenario with my engine..time will tell
flee
Veteran Member
I was hoping that was some oil or crud on the edge of the piston.
That one is toast. Whatever did that probably didn't stop there, either.
Yes, you are probably looking at a rebuild or finding a used engine.
TDI's don't get rebuilt as often as most other engines, though.
Don't pre-judge a used engine until you find one and look it over closely.
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
True, but they're also hell for stout. I wouldn't hesitate on one from a crashed car.
Matty
Active member
I'm going to pay for the quote the. I guess see what I'm in store for will have to sell my PC and my soul and maybe stand on the corner for a bit hell for stout? Please elaborate in South Africa that means hell for naughty :/
hell for stout? Please elaborate in South Africa that means hell for naughty :/Matty
Active member
Ok so I assume you mean strong? If so that's what I've heard plentiful so I'm hoping for the best being that the block is in good condition but that is wishful thinking, I'll just see what they have to say though hopefully I don't have to lose my kidney
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Meaning they're very rugid. Diesel engines are machined to higher tolerances, tighter fit if you will. Has the added advantage that they run longer.
Cars are expensive, just walk or ride a bike for a while, you'll be happy to part with the Krugerrand or whatever it's called.
As you start in on the rebuild continue looking for one at the wrecker. Here we also have auctions as a source.
Cars are expensive, just walk or ride a bike for a while, you'll be happy to part with the Krugerrand or whatever it's called.
As you start in on the rebuild continue looking for one at the wrecker. Here we also have auctions as a source.
Matty
Active member
Hahahahah Krugerrand :S Nah those are scarce, we use the rand, which looses value every time our president speaks basically to rebuild complete will be 4 months salary, I can walk for now but I've gotten used to driving everywhere... And where will all this extra weight go?? But I do love my golf so I feel like it's worth it if the car is going to be 100% at the end of the day.
basically to rebuild complete will be 4 months salary, I can walk for now but I've gotten used to driving everywhere... And where will all this extra weight go?? But I do love my golf so I feel like it's worth it if the car is going to be 100% at the end of the day.Matty
Active member
Okay so 55000 for rebuild apparently everything is screwed which I find hard to believe but okay so I am just getting an import will 80000ks on it for 14000 and fitting it for 5k much cheaper anyone know what coding would be required?
flee
Veteran Member
I'm not sure what you mean by 'coding'. Engine code: a la ALH, etc?
Matty
Active member
Like the ecu, will my current ecu be happy with a new engine? Will injectors need timing etc
flee
Veteran Member
Keep and re-use the hardware that is connected to the ECU now.
The IP should connect as long as you find the same model.
You are replacing the block and head. Right?
If it's a runner now and comes complete, don't touch the TB and you'll be OK at least for testing it,
but replace the belt while the engine's still out if you're smart!
Otherwise if it's just the longblock, you will be replacing the TB, etc.
The IP should connect as long as you find the same model.
You are replacing the block and head. Right?
If it's a runner now and comes complete, don't touch the TB and you'll be OK at least for testing it,
but replace the belt while the engine's still out if you're smart!
Otherwise if it's just the longblock, you will be replacing the TB, etc.
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Matty
Active member
Correct block and head, thanks man
Matty
Active member
Just to sum up, conrod is bent, but the place I took it to has basically said everything is stuffed, I can't imagine how.. they want me to change all 4 conrods, all pistons, new oil pump, new injectors, main bearings, radiator, diesel pump etc etc, all this will cost more than the car is worth lol so I am just buying a low mileage import engine and fitting that..so a few seconds be it two or three of runaway can damage a high milage engine, in hindsight I would have saved money and time just replacing the engine one shot but I atleast have a better understanding of my car so thanks everyone
Genesis
Top Post Dawg
Oil-fed runaways on diesels frequently bend a rod due to hydrolock; it's not the runaway per-se that does it, it's that liquid doesn't compress and when two things try to occupy the same space at the same time bad things happen.