Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
But he doesn't have a cam worth $1,000. He has one that's worth $85 (or $165 since you replace the lifters along with the cam). There is no reason to mess with taking the spring out of the seal and messing with it since a new cam seal is only $4.Mongler98 said:Lets say you have a cam that is worth well over $1,000 in just machine work...
There is plenty of space to move the seal. Here is one that leaked slightly, moving it got the original user another 60,0000 miles without a leak.
And this cam has had the seal moved 3 times before I took it out for replacement.
I disagree here. Checking the static timing will show you if your crank sprocket is moving or is it's just belt stretch. THIS is the first thing you should do since it will determine which one is happening. At the very least you need to change the IP shaft seal, which is not rocket science. My recommendation is to check the static timing, then proceed whether or not you need to change the crank sprocket and bolt.Mongler98 said:until you spend the $45 on a new belt and recheck with vcds your just wasting time. you know you have a leak, belt is probably stretched, if its not than you will know by changing the belt, which you need to do anyways at this point to go further. any other work will cost WAY more, start there.
This is what I have for a crank counterhold tool, and it's plenty beefy enough to do the job. At $35, it's well worth the money.
Here is what it will look like if the crank is moving. This car did very much the same as described, low power, smoke, and harder starting. I've fixed quite a few of these since it's a common problem. Only one needed to be redone 120,000 miles later, but it was because it was pretty messed up under the crank sprocket.
Crank is in time...
Cam and IP are not...
It's a simple seal that has no special tricks to it, and is only $20. The top, QA, and head seals are more difficult, but if you can follow directions and do your own timing belt, you can change them. I've changed them in parking lots for people before without a problem. A VCDS is a necessity but it sounds like you have that covered.Mongler98 said:your going to need to send that pump to someone who is qualified to do the repairs, some people have rebuilt them but its very difficult due to some parts. if you have ever read up on how to change the head oring you will know what im talking about here. you could have it rebuilt or just upgrade it now for not much more. go with a 11mm pump head, some better parts on a 10mm body unless your looking to make big power then your going to a 11 body with upgraded head or 12mm head but thats WAY far out there in the world of tdi mods. If you take it apart yourself be prepared to have a backup plan on sending it to someone once you realize it might be past your level of skill.
And unless you're willing to spend gobs of money for a lot more power, forget about everything 11mm related. If the pump runs fine but leaks a little, then I'd change the seals and call it a day. Having someone knowledgeable around always helps with anything.
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