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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old November 21st, 2017, 18:08   #6661
ToddA1
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ 08002
Fuel Economy: Dismal
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Lol, it does look bad, but there was plenty of room. A trash truck and school bus were able to get by, without issue. This is an old neighborhood, so I'm not stuck with all those crazy associations and bylaws. Realistically, I need land... this .25 acre BS isn't cutting it for me.

Anywho, Mr. Grumpy took a nap and got back at it. I was able to get the barrel disconnected and the GP harness wires depinned. The GPs came out without drama. I did notice a little blow by at #3. The Kroil was bubbling with the engine running.

Out of curiosity, I fired them up. All got red hot within 15 seconds.




The terminals were pretty corroded, so I chucked them in the drill and cleaned them against some 100 grit. Clean guy on the left.






Retested and all are now within spec. I decided to save my spare parts for cars that I actually care about. I'm going to reuse the cut harness wire and make a GP harness. Female bullet terminals fit the GPS perfectly.

-Todd
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'97 B4: Stock
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Old Yesterday, 19:37   #6662
ToddA1
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ 08002
Fuel Economy: Dismal
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Still messing with the Rotbox....

Went to 2 JYs looking for a seat. Came up empty... I may just run a B4 seat and buy a heated seat cover. I did find a better headlight switch and a lower glove box latch, that needs to be resprayed. Dude painted the interior with normal black spray paint. Although, this is a beater, I like everything looking and working properly.

Not surprisingly, the bulb in the HL switch is bad. I installed a LED.




Made my GP harness. Used noninsulated butt connectors and adhesive lined shrink tube. The bullet connectors were also sealed. Took way longer than it should have. My OCD was kicking in and I wanted it looking decent. Tested it and it works.




Cleaned the grounds at the barrel and slathered everything in antisieze. The aluminum stuff conducts and it's very difficult to wash off. It's becoming my go to, as an antioxidant coating. Added a ground at the barrel stud, that runs to the battery. I don't like how the factory did that.

The only CEL I should have left is airbag. I may just disconnect it and install a resistor.

Time to start the reliability shake down.

-Todd
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Old Yesterday, 22:56   #6663
Steve Addy
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TDI(s): 97 Mk3
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Nice work Todd, you should have said something, I think I have a couple Mk3 black glove boxes in the garage attic. Probably could get you a cushion too in a while but the box to ship would be pretty sizable.

Steve
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Old Today, 06:51   #6664
ToddA1
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Thanks for the offer, Steve. Honestly, I've been to the JYs twice, prior to yesterday and I kept forgetting about the latch. There was no way I was paying $30 for a new one.

After looking at my seat, the back is also worn out. It's be easier to just install an entire seat. The JYs are filled with A4, and B5 stuff with very nice seats. I just don't want to go through the work to make one fit.

-Todd
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Old Today, 09:55   #6665
tdidieselbobny
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I wish you were closer Todd,I have a full set of dark gray A3 seats that I bought off shortysclimbin years ago that are in nice shape and just sitting in garage rafters.....
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Old Today, 15:59   #6666
ToddA1
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Bob, I appreciate it, but if those seats are nice, they're too nice for this car.

Anyhow, I reinstalled the CEL and AB bulb, cleared the codes and everything seems to be off. AB code I saw previously may have been a fluke.... I didn't do anything to correct it.

Drove it about 20 miles and it feels solid. Feels totally different than the B4s.

Next, I need to address the IP leak. I may just replace the head seal insitu. Never did it this way, before.

-Todd
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Old Today, 18:39   #6667
Abacus
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Location: Nobleboro, Maine
Fuel Economy: And the miles just keep ticking away
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I've done a bunch of head installs with them in the car, they're not bad at all. I have a writeup somewhere on the additions I use. Basically, I use two large thick (non-serrated) paperclips to help keep the new seal off the threaded bolt portions.



Before I install the head seal now I always use an abrasive long pipe cleaner to clean out the groove. On install I lube the o-ring with grease beforehand so it slides into place, I had one early on that didn't quite sit into the groove far enough and it shaved the smallest sliver of o-ring off that I didn't notice at the time. I think a combination of the groove not being clean enough and no grease on the o-ring caused the problem.




The most important thing is to make sure the IP is at max stroke before you release the head and then only release it to the point you absolutely need it, so the shim retains its place with pressure. The head will start to feel slightly wobbly but it's OK.

I'd done about a dozen of them this way before I did one off the car, which is easier. But, not if it's already in the car and the car isn't due for a timing belt.

Feel free to give me a shout with any questions if needed before or during the install, I think you have my number.
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'96 B4V: 357,000 miles Malone 2+, PP520's, 6 speed, 02J short shifter, E-Codes, G60 brakes, Evo plate, DMF, stainless exhaust, heated leathers, cold weather package
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