Another aftermarket stereo thread

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rattlenbang

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Nov 17, 2015
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Victoria BC
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2004 wagon
I know this has been discussed before, but I'm getting conflicting info. Just bought stereo installation parts for my double DIN stereo, and the dude behind the counter insisted I needed a special cable adapter that fools the CAN bus that the radio is still in place. He says without that I will get a CEL and nobody will be able to scan the OBD port. The adapter is $167.00! From what I've read you only get these problems if you hook up the aftermarket stereo wrong. My original intention was to cut off all connectors and hard wire the stereo, wire by wire, with crimp connectors. The guy at the stereo shop insists it can't be done, that you have to have this ridiculously priced adapter or you'll get these problems with a 2004 Jetta. Is he full of crap?
 
scottdanpor

scottdanpor

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rattlenbang said:
I know this has been discussed before, but I'm getting conflicting info. Just bought stereo installation parts for my double DIN stereo, and the dude behind the counter insisted I needed a special cable adapter that fools the CAN bus that the radio is still in place. He says without that I will get a CEL and nobody will be able to scan the OBD port. The adapter is $167.00! From what I've read you only get these problems if you hook up the aftermarket stereo wrong. My original intention was to cut off all connectors and hard wire the stereo, wire by wire, with crimp connectors. The guy at the stereo shop insists it can't be done, that you have to have this ridiculously priced adapter or you'll get these problems with a 2004 Jetta. Is he full of crap?
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Yeah Hogwash. I used a basic harness for mine. It won't turn off with the key or door (it will stay on), so I wired mine to the x75 switch for power.
Older models could have an issue with breaking scanners with aftermarket stereos, as far as I know this does not affect 2004+ (actually 2002+) models.
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/aftermarket-radio.html

You won't get a CEL, but you also won't be able to use OBD2 to get info from the radio obviously.
A basic harness is quite inexpensive and well worth it if you can get one. You may also need an adapter for your antenna. It should provide some power so you will get decent reception. Like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-EU55-Antenna-Adapter-European/dp/B0007WW64Y
 
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rattlenbang

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I had read that post, which suggested that it was improper install causing the problem, while the guy at the stereo shop insisted that you HAD to have this expensive adapter or get the OBD problems. I don't really want to bother with a connector - this stereo will never go back to stock. So there's no problem with just cutting and splicing the wires, as long as I leave the CAN bus wire alone and don't connect it to anything? I do have the adapter for the antenna, but unlike many I've seen it has a power wire for the amp that's on the antenna itself, while videos I've seen show just a simple adapter without a power wire.
 
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scottdanpor

scottdanpor

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2004 Jetta TDI
rattlenbang said:
I had read that post, which suggested that it was improper install causing the problem, while the guy at the stereo shop insisted that you HAD to have this expensive adapter or get the OBD problems. I don't really want to bother with a connector - this stereo will never go back to stock. So there's no problem with just cutting and splicing the wires, as long as I leave the CAN bus wire alone and don't connect it to anything? I do have the adapter for the antenna, but unlike many I've seen it has a power wire for the amp that's on the antenna itself, while videos I've seen show just a simple adapter without a power wire.
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Yeah just don't connect the red power to the factory wire, or your stereo will always be on. The adapter is to prevent that but easily solved on your own. Sounds like you have the right antenna wire, I just soldered mine into the red power since I don't have an external amp or anything to plug the blue wire into. Without power it will have poor FM reception, but will still work.
 
yatzee

yatzee

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I've gone a slightly different route on this. The K line issue is real and has to be avoided, but there is an easier way - if you use this adapter, it's much easier to set the whole thing up as you're doing the wiring at your kitchen table (and thus having good proper connections) and then just install the whole thing together.

As a small tip, it's not easy to get the radio to sit all the way in it's place, but if you play with it, it'll fit. The big connector fits down to the left if I recall.
 
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rattlenbang

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2004 wagon
People talk about needing a separate wire for the switched 12V but according to http://www.modifiedlife.com/2004-vol...wiring-diagram, the car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire is the yellow red.

My understanding is that the 2004 is CANBUS controlled, hence there's no switched 12V http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/aftermarket-radio.html even shows the CANBUS pins. So either it is switched with 12v line according to www.modifiedlife.com, or it isn't and you need an alternative switched source.

It's this kind of discrepancy that makes me hesitant to start installing anything.
 
yatzee

yatzee

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this is a very simple job. I've done it on my 01,02, and 04. Grab the harness I linked and life is pretty easy.
 
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steve6

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2003 jetta tdi
"IF YOU CURRENT CAR RADIO STAYS ON AFTER THE KEY IS REMOVED (BEFORE DOOR IS OPENED) THIS HARNESS WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY" from your link?

I ran a 12v wire over to the fuse panel and stuck it in a fuse junction that is only on when key is on (for a switched 12v signal).
 
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scottdanpor

scottdanpor

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2004 Jetta TDI
rattlenbang said:
People talk about needing a separate wire for the switched 12V but according to http://www.modifiedlife.com/2004-vol...wiring-diagram, the car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire is the yellow red.

My understanding is that the 2004 is CANBUS controlled, hence there's no switched 12V http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/aftermarket-radio.html even shows the CANBUS pins. So either it is switched with 12v line according to www.modifiedlife.com, or it isn't and you need an alternative switched source.

It's this kind of discrepancy that makes me hesitant to start installing anything.
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Your options are to find the wire in the steering column harness tied to the key and wire into that if you're brave, run to the x75 switch, or to the fuse box.
You can try just wrapping your power wire temporarily to the car power and see what happens. I know it didn't work for me. I used the harness linked above and just ran a separate wire for power once I saw the stereo wouldn't turn off.

Here is the BEST thread I could find on the subject after much searching:
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/m...-passat-deck-install-thread-thanks-darth.html
 
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rattlenbang

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Tempest in a teapot. I wired it up just like I would any other stereo without issue. The stereo install shop was totally full of it telling me I needed that expensive component. I wired both switching and B+ to the same lead because there are lots of times I want the stereo running without the car on.
 
Rembrant

Rembrant

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steve6 said:
"IF YOU CURRENT CAR RADIO STAYS ON AFTER THE KEY IS REMOVED (BEFORE DOOR IS OPENED) THIS HARNESS WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY" from your link?

I ran a 12v wire over to the fuse panel and stuck it in a fuse junction that is only on when key is on (for a switched 12v signal).
Click to expand...
I've been following this thread as I'm looking for a new stereo for my 2003 Golf, but I noticed the quote above in the Amazon ad...

My factory stereo stays on when I turn the ignition off, but it turns off as soon as I pull the key out of the ignition.

Does that mean that the above adapter harness will work fine for me? Or do I still have to run extra 12v wires from a switched or non-switched source?
 
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steve6

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rattlenbang said:
Tempest in a teapot. I wired it up just like I would any other stereo without issue. The stereo install shop was totally full of it telling me I needed that expensive component. I wired both switching and B+ to the same lead because there are lots of times I want the stereo running without the car on.
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To go to the defense of the person who told you needed a $175 adapter.. that adapter would interface with the CANBUS signal and allow for 100% complete compatibility, it may also allow for steering wheel control, would most of us want to spend and extra $200 for that on a mkiv? not many thats for sure.

Rembrant, you would most likely need to run a 12v switched signal. The adapter linked is still nice to wire up the speakers etc... just have to think about the 12v switched signal when you are wiring it up.
 
Rembrant

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steve6 said:
Rembrant, you would most likely need to run a 12v switched signal. The adapter linked is still nice to wire up the speakers etc... just have to think about the 12v switched signal when you are wiring it up.
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Ok, understood. I don't mind spending extra on an adapter that works like factory...but $175 is a bit too spendy...
I still haven't decided on a stereo...I have to figure that out yet.
The cheap adapter would be more my speed...and then a separate 12v switched source if I have to.

After I asked the question, I remembered that my 03 Jetta had a Kenwood single DIN deck in it, and I do recall that it did have an adapter harness AND a separate power wire run to the fuse box.

On a slightly different, but related topic...what are you guys using for install kits if any? I'm referring to double DIN mounting hardware...not wiring or antenna.

Thanks for all the info folks.
 
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rangeroad

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Cant go wrong with talking with someone at Crutchfield on the phone, they're super helpful and will email you the links of kits needed for the model of deck you choose. And yes, there are way cheaper adapters out there, Amazon has the Metras (I forget the model number) with the 12v wire (K-line) to ensure engine off/radio off.

I recently went with the single DIN and am liking the extra storage cubby underneath for phone etc.
 
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rangeroad

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Yup, thats the one. Just be gentle taking the deck out, the little connecting tab from the VW antenna going to the deck is delicate. (yes, mine broke lol)
 
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rangeroad

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Duncan12 said:
How did you fix that broken antenna tab?
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It was the locking tab that broke, so it was able to still 'click' into the adapter. Once it was secure I applied a small amount of plastic glue to keep it affixed. I'll have to cut it out with a blade if I have to remove or replace.
 
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