Volkswagen TDI ALH Vacuum Diagrams (Stock & Modified)

NarfBLAST said:

Very nice, but you missed a spot on the underside of your dip stick tube.

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Lol you got me there but this is what I started with and it only took 20 minutes to clean lol

Birdman said:

You could remove the reservoir but you would lose any backup vacuum to operate the brakes if your engine suddenly stopped running. and if like my car which has the EGR deleted and has had the EGR / ASV valve gutted out and smoothed out inside so it now replaces the race pipe but with the ASV still working to shut the engine down, when you turn the car off and also when needed to help stop a run-away engine. You can always move the reservoir to a better spot if you need to.

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The asv is a good idea, I'm thinking of doing the same thing but with the PD 150 one to go with the PD 150 manifold. Regarding the reservoir apparently it's just there to run the vnt tests with vagcom, it stores vacuum to use when the engine is not running. If you look at the likes of the AGR which is basically the ALH but with a wastegate turbo it doesn't have the reservoir so it's not to do with the brakes.

Any Ideas on getting off the boost regulator vacuum hose from the bottom of the engine? Do you put another metal clip on?

Greetings from a half Scotsman living in Canada. Nice job on the clean up. What did you use to clean the metal up?

G101, just sprayed it all over the engine and bay with the engine idling then used a power washer on a low setting and carefully rinsed it off being careful to avoid direct hits on the electrics etc.

What is G101? bottle photo?

Vacuum for break system

One of the posts mentioned the break petal getting hard related to the vacuum. We have a 2009 Jetta tdi that has had some cold weather issues. When the temp gets to below 0 sometimes there will be a high pitched sound coming from around where the N75 valve is located. This is accompanied by a loss of power and breaking. The break petal gets rock hard and the car has trouble on hills even in third gear. The shop had no idea where to look. Any idea what could be causing this? Is there a different section in this forum that this should be posted?

I would look for a crack in the main vacuum lin efrom the engine to the brake booster. cold makes things shrink on cars too, and could be opening up a crack in a plastic vacuum line or fitting.

It looks good, but silicone shouldn't be used for the fuel return lines. From what I have read, it is _not_ compatible with fuel. Unless that's not silicone but something else like tygon or something.

cephalopod said:

It looks good, but silicone shouldn't be used for the fuel return lines. From what I have read, it is _not_ compatible with fuel. Unless that's not silicone but something else like tygon or something.

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You are quite correct and mine are swelling up lol, not leaking but they are going a bit weird.

Growler said:

What is G101? bottle photo?

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It's stuff used in valeting bays, normally highly diluted and used to wash just about everything. I just used it raw though.

Hi Guys,

Need to redo my vacum lines as they are all in various states of falling apart, what size i/d silicone pipe should I use?

I've had my vaccume ball removed on my 02 for about 100k now seriously no difference. Removed it on my 99.5 recently, not a hint of difference in drive ability.engine bay sure looks a lot less cluttered without it.

hi can someone explain what is asv delete and what it does ?

I'd again like to thank the user that made up those nifty diagrams for the vac lines after an EGR and ASV delete! I had been having an overboost issue for a while and had replaced all the vac lines with silicone hose to no avail, but just yesterday I completed the full removal of the EGR, EGR cooler, and ASV and re-routed my vac lines according to the diagram and my little Golf has never run so well! I was stuck in what I thought was limp mode, topping out at around 65 mph on the highway, now I can comfortably hit 90. Such a relief! Really simplified the top end of the engine bay too.

And in reference to the previous post, the ASV delete is getting rid of your anti-shudder valve. It is that plunger looking mechanism on the backside of your EGR valve body, and it's primary function is to smooth out the shutting off of your vehicle. The N18 and N239 tell the ASV to close and it cuts off the air to the intake by activating the plunger, which, in turn, closes the plate in your EGR valve body. I have no noticed a real difference with and without the ASV though, so if you are removing the EGR to put on a race pipe, there are no worries about the ASV going with it in my opinion.

i just got my b5 up and running after major engine failur due to timingbelt slipping, and now i have blocked of my egr valve and it runs fine but my turbo won't kick in when it's supposed to... i need a diagram to figure out the vac lines to and from turbo, vac reservoir and so on... the turbo is regulated via the brakes or am i wrong?

it's a passat with a 1.9 afn tdi, pre pd engine!

I'm going to be doing the ERG delete and keeping the ASV. On the erg delete diagram the N18 is not there. Can i just remove the N18 completely from the car when using the ERG diagram for the delete?

Jason

jasontexas said:

I'm going to be doing the ERG delete and keeping the ASV. On the erg delete diagram the N18 is not there. Can i just remove the N18 completely from the car when using the ERG diagram for the delete?
Jason

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Hello!

I blocked the EGR and left the Anti Shudder Valve with all hoses connected.

EGR won't go anywhere since it's blocked with the plates, and I'm pretty sure the ASV doesn't work anyway … works fine for me

ALIKA said:

Hello!
I blocked the EGR and left the Anti Shudder Valve with all hoses connected.
EGR won't go anywhere since it's blocked with the plates, and I'm pretty sure the ASV doesn't work anyway … works fine for me

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Thanks for the reply but that does not answer my question. I want to know if i can remove the N18 valve from the car with the EGR delete? I'm asking because i don't see the N18 in the EGR delete diagram but i do see it in the stock diagram.

Jason

Yea, that sounds right, no EGR, no N18. Check diagram for what to do with extra hose(s) 2?

Then you'll have 2 fault codes instead of just 1

If I have a Malone tune with egr delete can I remove the N18 without a fault code?

Where can I buy the blue hose?

cross said:

Where can I buy the blue hose?

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Got mine on ebay, look for silicone hose with 3mm inside diameter, it is stretchy enough to fit both the smaller 3mm and larger 5mm connections. According to idparts.com: five meters should do every connection on a stock ALH engine. It comes in all sorts of colours.

can someone repost the vacuum diagram when you do an asv and egr delete? thanks

In for learnings

Anybody keep a copy of the original diagrams? Looks like they've been deleted from the server...

Any advice on moving that stupid coolant hose out of the way up by the N18 valve?

DavidMTroyer said:

Any advice on moving that stupid coolant hose out of the way up by the N18 valve?

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For the heater core?

Ok, so I know this is bringing up a thread from the past, but even after reading everything there is still some unanswered questions. I have deleted the EGR and installed a race pipe in its place. I would like to delete the N18 & N239, thus relocating all of the vacuum lines that run to each of the sensors. The vacuum lines aren't confusing me, its what to do with the connector that originally plugged into the N18 (can't remember if there is a plug on the N239). Do you just tape off and tuck the plugs out of the way or do you have to put a dummy plug in there with a resistor of some sort?

Its only what to do with the electrical connectors that unclear to me.