Broken #2 injector hold down bolt

2000 New Beetle, ALH, 5 speed.

Gentlemen I'm not very proud of myself at this moment. As a experienced Marine Corps helicopter mechanic and then receiving an industrial maintenance degree and working in industry as a maintenance and engineering technician for more than 20 years, all I can say is I screwed up. I was using a calibrated torque wrench. Unfortunately it doesn't help if the torque setting is the wrong one! I snapped off the bolt of the #2 injector hold down clamp inside of the head. I had the torque wrench set to 30ft-lbs. It never got close to 30ft-lbs, it was turning very easily but obviously snapped. I have sprayed Sili-Kroil into the top of the broken bolt and allowed it to sit. When I push on the sides of the bolt with a jewelers tip screwdriver, I can see the Kroil move around and the bolt looks like it is not tight in there, it appears to have some movement. I know I deserve the criticism; however, right now I would prefer your help. I'm thinking I need to use a left hand drill bit or an easy-out. Any help and suggestions to get me out of this bind are appreciated.

I would start with the left hand drill bits also let the kroil sit for a little time

Also can try a little heat to the head around the bolt

it should come out easily if you can get purchase at all, they don't bottom out so don't go super tight at least. I'd maybe try a stone work drill bit in reverse, you know how they have those tabs at the sides? Maybe even take an old one or cheap one and grind the end flat so more of the tabs can catch what's left of the bolt.

center punch, drill, and easy out

maxmoo said:

center punch, drill, and easy out

Click to expand...

This. In that precise order, and with all the skill you can muster.

It'll come out like magic.

Bill

Meh, super glue something to it and it'll probably come out, no need for overkill

broken #2 injectors bolt

Just happened to me last week because of head gasket water leak into #2 cylinder ! Bolt snapped and injector went up about 1/4 or 1/2 inch . removed the head and use a left-hand screw extractor and was not that hard to extract . Lucky ? Maybe, but I had worst experience with left-hand screw . This was easy. Good luck

Seatman said:

Meh, super glue something to it and it'll probably come out, no need for overkill

Click to expand...

^^^ that. I usually dremel a slot, Krull or Powerblast them, ad a little heat and remove them with a flat blade screwdriver. Since yours was overtorqued, it should come out quite easily now that the failure relieved the bolting thread stress.

If you got the left hand drill bit, I'd go that way, good chance you won't even need the easy out

Left-hand drill bits are a bit like unicorns. Way too hard to find, but magical and solve big problems.

Anyone have good recommendations as to where to source them?

(I don't currently need any myself, but they seem like something handy for the tool box).

These aren't professional but cheap enough for one time use. I just bought them at our local store during lunch break.
http://m.harborfreight.com/13-piece...t-95146.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

You should be right set then. Over-torqued bolt going in shouldn't be hard. Talk to me about getting a bolt out that's seen 15 Canadian winters worth of road salt....

Ordered new bolts, bevel washers, and injector seals from dealership.

Before I tried the new left handed bits, I figured I would try to tap it out after 24 hours soaking in Kroil. My college freshman daughter patiently held the light for me. Took about 45 minutes. Slow. Patience is the key. I'm so thankful this worked out. Hopefully the new hardware will be at the dealer tomorrow!

Glad you were able to get it out

Kroil and a little patience works again!