No start after blown turbo

I was beating on my car in fifth gear. I had the throttle mashed for about a minute at top speed. I knew it was a bad idea but I did it anyway. I started to lose power and speed. It felt like it lost boost. I limped the car home. It was trailing smoke. The entire engine bay was covered in oil, along with the whole intake tract. The car had already been leaking oil out of the turbo. I ordered and put on a new turbo. I can't get the car to run more then half a second. It comes really close. It has compression.The timing belt looks pristine and has tension the glow plug and CEL operate as they should. I was hoping someone could point me what way to look. I'm hoping it is just still really oil loaded from the turbo, but I'm pretty sure I cranked it enough to clear it out enough to run.
Thanks in advance for any help.

If the turbo blew, you need to clean the intercooler out, but it sounds like you have more issues...
How do you know it has good compression? The sound, or did you test it with a compression tester? Do you have vcds? How's the timing? If you have the oil cap off while you crank, does smoke come out?

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I did not compression test it. I'm just assuming that it does due to sound and feel from turning it over. I do not have access to vag-com. it does have some vapor come out from under the valve cover. Ive spent along time trying to find the timing mark on the flywheel but I cant find it. Do you think the intercooler being full of oil could cause a no start?

how much oil was left in the sump when you got home? After cleaning the intake pipes and ic. check timing.

The oil was a tiny bit below the min. level on the dipstick. I'll clean out the inter cooler and find some way to see the flywheel mark. Thanks for your help.

SteveFrench said:

I did not compression test it. I'm just assuming that it does due to sound and feel from turning it over. I do not have access to vag-com. it does have some vapor come out from under the valve cover. Ive spent along time trying to find the timing mark on the flywheel but I cant find it. Do you think the intercooler being full of oil could cause a no start?

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I'd recommend a true compression test to verify that you have sufficient compression.
Oil in the intercooler would not keep it from starting, on the other hand, it could cause a runaway condition. (Experience speaking, it's not fun!)
I'd also recommend finding someone with vag-com to verify there are no codes which are preventing it from starting.

But, go to the basics: what does a diesel engine need to run? Fuel, air, compression and all that in the correct timing.
Take one or the other, and it won't run, or won't run right.

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Typically when a turbo blows liquid oil leaks past the broken shaft and gets ingested by the engine. If more than a couple tablespoons make it into any cylinder in one gulp rods get bent, compression plummets, and the engine won't start when cold.

So, yup, pulling the glow plugs, spinning the engine to see how much oil comes out, and then a careful compression test are great next steps.

Otherwise you're just wasting time troubleshooting an engine that may already be a gonner.

I checked the timing and it seemed to be a tooth off. I fixed it and started it real quick. It started after a few seconds. I shut it off and put the rest back together. Valve cover belts etc. Now it wont start again. I'm trying to see if i know anyone with a compression tester that will work but I doubt it.

if timing was off you might want to do a tb. how long ago was it done. you need to find why it was off. if timing skipped again.....

Harbor freight has a fairly cheap compression tester that will work on a diesel. Several members on this forum have used them.

cylinder 2 only has 200 Psi. Guess its time for at least a long block.

SteveFrench said:

cylinder 2 only has 200 Psi. Guess its time for at least a long block.

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That would do it.

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If anyone on the forum around northwest Pa is selling a long block or whole drive train that would work I'm in the market.

I was wondering if anyone could direct me to a post, or tell me what all long blocks will work with a 97 Passat.

an 1z/AHU motor. thought someone on here was selling a car. maybe call around junk yards also. but add a tb/wp into the price.

JB05 said:

My Bentley states that position 5 in the VIN is the engine designation which in your case is a G; mine shows an R. It says to go to Bentley Publisher's.com. http://www.bentleypublishers.com/vo...-passat-repair-manual-1995-1997-b4-ebahn.html AAZ.

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If you have bent valves, we normally repair a cylinder head to 100% reconditioned for about $650. The parts, add about another $300-$350.

You really can't tell if you really need to replace the long block without taking the cylinder head off. You have not idea what damage is underneath. It could be comparatively minor. The #2 piston took a big hit, but the cylinder walls are clean, it is very salvageable. AND OFTEN LESS WORK. Are you going to find a better block than what you have? At what price? AND you have the labor and time to pull the whole engine, and reinstall the replacement engine... what if you find the replacement has a bad set of rings and lots of blowby? I guess you could pull it again. Send it back and try again..Or if the cylinder walls look good on your existing engine;for example, you can see the cross-hatch in the cylinder walls, try what we have done hundreds of times.

We regularly replace the damaged piston/rod set by matching weight and length of the UNdamaged #1 piston/rod. The trick is that the AHU/ ALH pistons are not all the weight and the rods are not all the same weight OR length. If you find you only have a damaged #2 piston and rod, you send us the straight #1 piston/rod set and we choose the closest match from our stock of about 120 rods organized by weight and length. We find the properly weighed piston and put together a set of pistons and rods, with the #1 and #2 piston/ rods balanced within .1gr of each other. It does require two new sets of rings, the rod bolts, at least 1/2 of rod bearing set. This procedure does not require removing the engine; only the oil pan. It would require the skill to install rings and pistons back into the engine. In our shop, replacing a pair of pistons and oil pan is about a 4.5 hr job. Replacing the engine is about a 20 hr job. Your time to completion is vastly reduced, given the cylinder bores are in good shape. We can loan the ball hone to deglaze the cylinders and if needed the ring compressor. You can be back together much quicker and reliably than the cost and time of a replacement block.

We can provide quality and competitively priced reassembly parts for a one-stop-shop and I provide the technical support so you get the job done right.
If you like feel free to call with questions.

I appreciate the offer but for now i found a complete junkyard motor for 400 if i pull it myself. I might eventually take apart the original and see whats going on.