Oil Pump Carrier Hex Shaft Replacement

Ok so my guess is that I need to pull the oil pan to gain access to oil pump to replace this troubled little bugger. I've tried to look for a "how to" on replacing this hex shaft but have been unsuccessful in finding anything. Does anyone have any resources that they can offer. Heck even tried to search for a "how to" remove oil pan and found nothing on that for a 2009. I'm sure it's and easy to do, but want some piece of mind and reference material before I tear into stuff.

I think the hex shaft itself is your least problem.
Usually when they fail, the slots where they ride are damaged too. If you insert a brand new hex shaft into the slot, you can clearly see the free play in it.

And what is the cure for that, I don't know. Maybe welding it in place?

I don't think it is that easy. I know at least a couple folks who have read up, purchased a replacement shaft, and decided to wait.

I think I read there is an interference with some bracket ( boost air hose?) that complicates the job.

alldata has info.

sealant used to re-assemble.

three torque specs for mounting bolts

40 nm for the large end bolt into the block
45 nm for the bolts into the transmission
15 nm for the small bolts (which should be installed diagonally in steps)

Do we know when the factory went to the longer shaft?
My 2009 CEBA has the hex shaft and balance system, but so far no problems at 247,000 miles.
I don't plan to change the shaft at this time, but I wonder about the shaft lengths and the S/N when the were made longer.

You will not expecience any sympthoms just before suddenly while driving your oil pressure light will come on (assuming you will be driving at over 1800 RPm at that moment. STUPID DESIGN!).

Is it shaft length what is causing the problem? On Euro-spec TDIs with balance shafts its the hex shaft itself whose edges wear down. Ideally for replacement you want a slightly thicker hex. If the stock one os 6 mm, then 6.5 mm would be the one to go. But highly doubt such is available at all...

I just finished this job yesterday after reading about the hex shaft that has a tendency to round off. I have a 2009 TDI with 167,000 and after having the HPFP fail, wanted to deal with any other known problems.

I too could not find a lot of information on this job and it is not listed in the Bentley's, but at least there was an exploded diagram. So I winged it, here is what I did.

1. Jack up the car and support with jack stands.

2. Remove the PS front wheel, skid plate, PS inner fender liner, and oil pan cover.

3. Drain the oil completely from the pan (I also made sure to change out the oil filter and suck out all the remaining oil in there too).

4. Once the oil is out, there are 23 bolts and 2 support bracket screws that need to be removed from the oil pan. 20 bolts actually secure the pan to the block and 3 feed in horizontally through from the transmission/clutch housing.

5. Once you get everything loose, I used a scraper and a hammer to break the seal of the oil pan to the block. Be careful with the oil pan, it is made of aluminum and you don't want to scratch it to much on the sealing surface.

6. The mentioned intercooler boost hose bracket prevents easily removing the oil pan. I was finally able to wrestle the pan off by pulling the hose assembly towards the front of the car while wiggling the oil pan down and out.

7. Hex shaft replacement is straight forward. It is located on the PS of the oil pump, in the center of the forward most gear. Remove the snap ring and use a small magnet to pull the old shaft out. Insert the new shaft and retain in place with snap ring. Shaft replacement done.

I don't have a picture but once I cleaned the hex shaft you could clearly see the corners were starting to round off on the drive gear end of the shaft. Definitely some free play allowing the excessive wear to develop.

8. I took the opportunity to clean the entire pan, inside and out to get rid of any gunk. I also scraped and sanded all the remaining sealant from the sealing surface on the oil pan. Make sure the sealing surface it is clean, dry, and oil free.

9. Do the same for the sealing surface on the bottom of the block. Scrape and clean remaining sealant from the sealing surface. Wipe up any excess oil that could make its way onto the sealing surface. Make sure the sealing surface it is clean, dry, and oil free.

10. Since there is no gasket, you need to use a suitable sealant on the oil pan to seal it to the block. Find a high temperature, oil safe sealant. Should be a couple selections available at your local auto parts store (Loctite or Permatex will work). I used Loctite 515. Laydown a 2mm bead around the entire oil pan, make sure to run on the inside of the bolts for the proper seal. Pay attention to the cure time as this will effect how quickly you need to move on this job.

11. Now the fun part, reinstallation of the oil pan. The mentioned intercooler bracket prevented numerous efforts on my part to install the oil pan without messing up the sealant. For better (or worse), I got pissed at the bracket and cut if off with my dremel. It is secured on both sides of the bracket anyway, so not sure it will cause a problem. Time will tell.

12. Now I could carefully align the oil pan without the bracket in my way. Some people use 4 extra long bolts at the corners to get the pan in position, then all you do is gently push it up and start installing the other 16 bolts. Then remove the 4 long bolts and install the remaining 4 bolts. Or be like me and carefully align the pan over the holes and push it against the block and install all the screws. The bad part about that is if you are off, you may damage your seal if you are to far off and have to move the pan around a lot. Your choice. Only finger tighten the screws.

13. Starting at the center of the pan, slowly start to tighten the bolts in a diagonal pattern from the center to the outside.

14. Install the 3 bolts from the transmission. Also install the one remaining support bracket screw.

15. Cure time will determine how long to wait, but I allowed 24hr for the pan to cure based on material and ambient temp (Loctite has great charts for all this stuff).

16. I did a quick visual of the pan then added a couple quarts of oil. Then I checked again for leaks. Nothing found. Added remaining oil to the pan and checked again. All good.

17. Reassemble the rest of the car - Install oil pan cover, PS inner fender, skid plate, and PS front wheel.

18. Lowered car from jack stands. Did one last check and started the car. Engine fired up with no oil pressure issues or leaks. Job done.


No leaks noted yet. I will jack the car up again in a couple of weeks and check the seal on the oil pan for any leaks as well as the intercooler hose whose bracket I removed. Hope this helps.

I had mine deleted. I think it's almost the same price?
I did it when I had my timing belt done.

It was converted from a CBEA oil setup with the balancer to a CJAA oil setup with just a normal pump.

C3156 said:

I just finished this job yesterday after reading about the hex shaft that has a tendency to round off. I have a 2009 TDI with 167,000 and after having the HPFP fail, wanted to deal with any other known problems....


Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I may just plan on this. (when it gets close to the 170k oil change) I have the shaft and clip from idparts (someplace around $12 or so)

when you check for leaks, do you think you could snap a photo of where you cut the intercooler hose mount?

meerschm said:

when you check for leaks, do you think you could snap a photo of where you cut the intercooler hose mount?

Click to expand...

Sure can, I will snap a picture of the hex shaft too so that you can see the amount of wear.

C3156 said:

I just finished this job yesterday after reading about the hex shaft that has a tendency to round off. I have a 2009 TDI with 167,000 and after having the HPFP fail, wanted to deal with any other known problems.

I too could not find a lot of information on this job and it is not listed in the Bentley's, but at least there was an exploded diagram. So I winged it, here is what I did.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that information. Kind of sounds like a pain in the tail, but needs to be done. It's my wife's car that needs is as mine is a 2010. I just did the timing belt on mine and I'm doing hers in two weeks already have the hex shaft from IDParts so I might as well get it done then. So their is no gasket for the oil pan? The other question is that bracket you were fighting, any way to remove it?

Thanks all for your input.

meerschm said:

Thanks. I may just plan on this. (when it gets close to the 170k oil change) I have the shaft and clip from idparts (someplace around $12 or so)

when you check for leaks, do you think you could snap a photo of where you cut the intercooler hose mount?

Click to expand...

I can give you a hand Mike just let me know.

StevesTDI said:

It's my wife's car that needs is as mine is a 2010. I just did the timing belt on mine and I'm doing hers in two weeks already have the hex shaft from IDParts so I might as well get it done then. So their is no gasket for the oil pan? The other question is that bracket you were fighting, any way to remove it?

Click to expand...

To your questions, there is no gasket, only sealant. Pick up a decent one that is high temp and oil friendly. The bracket in question is molded into the intercooler tube and is supported with a screw into the oil pan. If you would remove the entire intercooler tube up to the intake, you could get the bracket out of the way. It would have involved more time and patience than I had at the moment, lol. Hopefully it will not bite me in the butt.

Just for information, here is the shaft in question, pretty small. In the second shot you can see the edges starting to wear. For 167k it does not look that bad, I just wanted to avoid a problem. Probably could have gone a while longer without changing it.

Thanks for the pics, if ya feel the need shoot a pic of that bracket ya sawed off.

Okay, jacked up the car and checked for leaks. Nothing found. Hope the pictures help you guys.

Here is the inter-cooler tube in question. First picture looking from DS to PS, it is the plastic tube right next to the oil pan. It is attached with another bracket just above the picture to the block and you can see on the other end where it attaches to the intercooler hose. The other attachment to the block is near impossible to reach unless your name is Mr. Fantastic.



Here is looking from the PS to the DS, looking at the PS front of the oil pan. The two bolts are part of the 20 that secure the pan to the block. The threaded hole is where the bracket once attached. The melted plastic looking thing on the tube was the bracket.

Thanks for the pix.




so this is part labeled 18?

1K0145770AG









do you think it would be possible to make a clean cut and epoxy it back together after the pan is back in place? (perhaps with a tie wrap to hold it snug)



looks a little tight.


Anyone know how much stuff you would have to pull to actually get this part out of the way without cutting?

I'd cut it. Mine broke on its own. Convenience when I get to the shaft.

Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with CM11

I completed the Oil Pump Carrier Hex Shaft Replacement yesterday using the direction C3156 describe in his post. I have 240,000 miles on the car. You could definitely see where the shaft was worn down at the end compared with the new one.

AS in the previous post I too had troubled with the reinstalling the pan due to the inter-cooler hose, but I was able to get around it without cutting the bracket.