Walt@EverythingEuro
Vendor
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2013
- Location
- Punta Gorda, FL
- TDI
- 15 A3 TDI/manual, 15 Golf TDI, 14 Cayenne TDI, 74 Thing.
Picked up an 04 model about 2 weeks ago with 135K with a bum auto. Luckily enough, scored a running/driving V6/5spd car a couple days later on the cheap - and the rest is history.
Did a little bit of research before jumping in, but I'm more a hands on kind of guy. Didn't really see any description of the wiring involved (I didn't search that hard, I'll be honest), so I figured I'd share in an effort to give back a bit.
Backstory - I've wired lots of stuff, I'm a wiring guy. Manual swaps in almost everything, FSI engines into mk1's - you name it, I can wire it. With that said, this was probably the easiest wiring modification I've ever had to make.
Reverse lights. The reverse light switch on the trans utilizes a 5 pin connector - but only 2 wires are used. Take the 10 pin connector that used to plug into the multi-function switch on your automatic trans (the D connector, not the round cannon-plug). Snip the wires in pins 7 & 8 and run those to your reverse light switch connector. It doesn't matter which one goes to which, either way works. That's it. You now have reverse lights working.
Brake lights. Some swaps won't need this at all. My donor car was an 01.5, which utilized the older style brake light switch. This is also super simple, all the wires match up color for color except one. (The TDI car used a Red/white wire for ignition power, the older car used a black/blue wire). Simple regardless, snip away and reconnect.
Clutch switches. You'll have 2 switches, both using 2 pin connectors. The upper one is for the starting circuit. Simple. Run one wire to a good ground (I used a ring terminal attached to one of the steering column mount bolts). The other wire will go to the starter interlock relay (2nd row up, far right, basic 53 relay). The bottom wire (85), I believe it was blue/black, snip that and run it to your upper clutch switch. This will ground the relay when you depress the clutch and allow the starter to function. It used to get ground from the multi-function switch on the auto trans when it was in park or neutral.
Finally, the lower clutch switch. This is going to keep your revs from hanging, and allow cruise control function. 1 wire (again, it doesn't matter which) will simply tap off of pin#3 on the brake light switch. It's merely ignition power. You can get this from anywhere you want really, but the OEM location was a splice in that same harness, and it just happens to be the easiest place IMHO. The other wire will run to the ECM to pin#43 on the (larger) 94 pin connector.
You'll need an ECM repair wire for this obviously, I keep them in stock so I don't have a part number handy. I also highly recommend quality wiring components (I use heat shrinkable crimp connectors exclusively, properly crimped and heatshrunk - delcity has a great selection).
That's it! Sorry if this has been covered before, just wanted to throw it out there while it was fresh in my mind.
Other random thoughts. I HIGHLY recommend this swap. Even if you budget it out. I used the Valeo 1.8T clutch kit/flywheel from ECS. V6 parts car for virtually everything else. It drives incredible. With the V6 trans, I'm running 45 in 4th gear @ 2k rpm. I'm running 72 on the highway in 5th @ 2800rpm. Being a Malone dealer, I obviously used them for the tune, and it's flawless. Cruise and everything else works as it should. The 1.8T pilot bearing works perfectly, and DOES NOT COME WITH THE CLUTCH KIT! Luckily, I had one in stock so didn't lose any downtime. As carefully as I planned this out, that was the one bit I overlooked.
As of now, I notice no vibration or anything from the driveline. It drives like OEM. I'm probably going to go ahead and delete the BSM before I sell her just because of the mileage, and we'll see how she acts then, but I expect to be pleased.
And, that's all I got! I hope this helps someone at some point down the line. If you're pondering this swap, and somewhat local, I'll gladly toss ya the keys anytime. If you have any questions, I'll be happy to answer as best I can.
Did a little bit of research before jumping in, but I'm more a hands on kind of guy. Didn't really see any description of the wiring involved (I didn't search that hard, I'll be honest), so I figured I'd share in an effort to give back a bit.
Backstory - I've wired lots of stuff, I'm a wiring guy. Manual swaps in almost everything, FSI engines into mk1's - you name it, I can wire it. With that said, this was probably the easiest wiring modification I've ever had to make.
Reverse lights. The reverse light switch on the trans utilizes a 5 pin connector - but only 2 wires are used. Take the 10 pin connector that used to plug into the multi-function switch on your automatic trans (the D connector, not the round cannon-plug). Snip the wires in pins 7 & 8 and run those to your reverse light switch connector. It doesn't matter which one goes to which, either way works. That's it. You now have reverse lights working.
Brake lights. Some swaps won't need this at all. My donor car was an 01.5, which utilized the older style brake light switch. This is also super simple, all the wires match up color for color except one. (The TDI car used a Red/white wire for ignition power, the older car used a black/blue wire). Simple regardless, snip away and reconnect.
Clutch switches. You'll have 2 switches, both using 2 pin connectors. The upper one is for the starting circuit. Simple. Run one wire to a good ground (I used a ring terminal attached to one of the steering column mount bolts). The other wire will go to the starter interlock relay (2nd row up, far right, basic 53 relay). The bottom wire (85), I believe it was blue/black, snip that and run it to your upper clutch switch. This will ground the relay when you depress the clutch and allow the starter to function. It used to get ground from the multi-function switch on the auto trans when it was in park or neutral.
Finally, the lower clutch switch. This is going to keep your revs from hanging, and allow cruise control function. 1 wire (again, it doesn't matter which) will simply tap off of pin#3 on the brake light switch. It's merely ignition power. You can get this from anywhere you want really, but the OEM location was a splice in that same harness, and it just happens to be the easiest place IMHO. The other wire will run to the ECM to pin#43 on the (larger) 94 pin connector.
You'll need an ECM repair wire for this obviously, I keep them in stock so I don't have a part number handy. I also highly recommend quality wiring components (I use heat shrinkable crimp connectors exclusively, properly crimped and heatshrunk - delcity has a great selection).
That's it! Sorry if this has been covered before, just wanted to throw it out there while it was fresh in my mind.
Other random thoughts. I HIGHLY recommend this swap. Even if you budget it out. I used the Valeo 1.8T clutch kit/flywheel from ECS. V6 parts car for virtually everything else. It drives incredible. With the V6 trans, I'm running 45 in 4th gear @ 2k rpm. I'm running 72 on the highway in 5th @ 2800rpm. Being a Malone dealer, I obviously used them for the tune, and it's flawless. Cruise and everything else works as it should. The 1.8T pilot bearing works perfectly, and DOES NOT COME WITH THE CLUTCH KIT! Luckily, I had one in stock so didn't lose any downtime. As carefully as I planned this out, that was the one bit I overlooked.
As of now, I notice no vibration or anything from the driveline. It drives like OEM. I'm probably going to go ahead and delete the BSM before I sell her just because of the mileage, and we'll see how she acts then, but I expect to be pleased.
And, that's all I got! I hope this helps someone at some point down the line. If you're pondering this swap, and somewhat local, I'll gladly toss ya the keys anytime. If you have any questions, I'll be happy to answer as best I can.