98 bettle tdi slow starting

I have a 98 with 270,000KM, it has been slow starting when warmed up, it rolls over a long time before it starts. Starts quickly when cold. I have an Upsolute chip as well.

The whole motor is original- injectors, turbo, you name it. Fuel and air filters are changed regularly. The slow starting when warm issue has been there for several months. Battery is the second one since new, this one is about 2 years old. Starter is original too.

Could the slow starting be the injectors or something else?

Thanks,

Don

I know it's a very simple question, but when was the last time you had your glow plugs replaced? My 98 was having troubles turning over but became a new car last winter when I had them changed.

My thought was that the glow plugs were not likely the problem, since they are needed most when the car is cold and my problem is when the car is warm?

Don

Have you done a compression test? I suspect you will find the problem there.

I was just reading some about the anti-shudder
valve. Not sure if it might be related, but may
be worth reading about. Probably was in the
TDI100 forum.

Lowell

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=134622&highlight=hard+to+start+when+hot

we have tried it all. The adaptation channel 5 does help, but not perfectly.

If you find out what the problem is, let me know.. I recently purchased a 98 Beetle and it's slow to start a lot of the time.. For some odd reason, sometimes when I push the clutch in it decides to start on it's own as well.. haha.. Also, when I've killed the engine from a standing start I have to hold the accelerator down for ten seconds before I can try to restart. If I don't, it just turns over and never starts.. Kinda crazy..

I've had this problem too. I have a 98 with just 85k on the odo. I think it might be that the battery (maintenance free) is in it's 4th year. The first one died out cold at 4.1 years old....

Just a thought, BeetleGo

I'd say the battery is one of the first places to check. Make sure you load test it, that is applying a load to the battery and checking its ability to deliver voltage for a period of time. A couple more things to check are the electrical grounds for good contact, especially the one under the battery, make sure the fuses on the top of the battery have good contact and check the connections to the starter for tight clean contacts.
Good luck!

My battery is 2 years old or so. Do I have to worry about losing anything in the computer memory if I disconnect the battery to remove the starter?
Don

I just purchased my 98 (now with 80,000 miles) a few weeks ago. If I kill the engine taking off, it won't start.. I have to hold the accelerator to the floor for over 10 seconds, then it starts right up. Really wierd. The previous owner has a reciept from a dealer where he had told them of the slow starting. The dealership told him to clean the intake manifold. He didn't do it because they were going to charge several hundred dollars.. I still haven't cleaned it. I've been waiting until I install the performance parts..

Real Quick when was the TB changed?

It may be a bad ground. Check the one under the battery tray. Perhaps changes in temperarture are affecting tolerances.

Ed

When disconnectng the battery, it's a good idea to have the radio code handy. Sometimes the radio goes into "safe" mode and needs to have the code entered to get back up and running, although if the disconnect is short enough, it doesn't lose it's memory, dunno where the cutoff is tho.
A couple other things to check in these vintage Beetles are the relay 109 and the MAF. Both problems and cures are well documented elsewhere on this site. I had both starting and stalling problems until I replaced relay 109.
YMMV

Check for air bubbles in the fuel line(s). An excessive amount
means that the pump has to re-prime itself. Though,
air being "pulled" in by the pump happens regardless of temperature,
at least in my experience.

Lon

HI there
In older alh engines german engineers put in ECU starting map whichone is responsible for protection 2-mass flwheel (that map cut fuel quantity on warm engine). When engine is new everthing is ok, but after few years and many miles engine wear (ECU don`t recognize this) that fuel quantity is too small to start the engine. You can check this by unplug ETS if afther then engine start without problem you have wrong map(when you unplug ETS ECU don`t now what temp has the engine and increse fuel quantity). This is only in alh engines from 1998 and 1999, in 2000 and younger vw fix that map. In europe they can change that map by programming ECU. Here I don`t now who can do this. You have Upsolute chip call them and ask maybe they can fix that map. Other solution is change battery on biger (more ampers), check ground connection, check starter (no free play on bearings, spin freely or replace the starter) sometimes it help(in 60%).
greg

yes, i concur, i didnt know the specifics, but it was obvious this was the case. I would bet part of the reasoning was to minimize soot when starting so the car didnt look like a crappy diesel. If anyone what memory address do what, we can figure out how to use vds-pro and modify those memory addresses within the engine controller. The memory address modification to make the windows roll up with the remote was simple, this cant be much harder if we only knew what memory address. There is a seperate forum topic ... http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=134622