ahu from mk3 to B3
- Thread starter Steve Addy
- Start date
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Probably not get the hatch, it's no better than mine and in some spots worse. It has the typical rust around pin #3 of the emblem and it looks like the yard did a little damage to the upper area. If I had unlimited storage I'd get it just in case someone rear ended me but I don't.
In other news, on the last decent day I managed to drag the transmission outside for a bath...which it needed badly.
Steve
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
lol, I've asked a friend across the pond to find me an inexpensive Polo shifter assembly...haven't heard anything back. We'll see if he comes up with anything.That tranny is whispering to me...
"O2J upgrade"
Steve
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Installed the rear door today (temporarily) to see if the power window was functional, it was...yay!
Then proceeded to remove the new door again so I could clean and wax the door jambs.
Don't know what I think about the color yet....might be a little off but my paint is very oxidized so that accounts for some of it.
Also tested the driver mirror I got, that works too. Later tonight I'll check the new passenger mirror to see if that works.
Oh and in case I forgot to post this up I picked these up a few weeks ago....
Then proceeded to remove the new door again so I could clean and wax the door jambs.
Don't know what I think about the color yet....might be a little off but my paint is very oxidized so that accounts for some of it.
Also tested the driver mirror I got, that works too. Later tonight I'll check the new passenger mirror to see if that works.
Oh and in case I forgot to post this up I picked these up a few weeks ago....
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Got some things done today. Figured out one problem with the original driver door, maybe even the reason the power window was inop. This was kind of odd, hidden under a mirror that was in good shape. Also odd though was that the bolt hidden behind the mirror inside reveal trim was missing as well. Notice how it's pinched down close to the door panel. I had wondered why the felt channel was laying in the bottom of the door.
Got both doors completely installed today. The front didn't fit as nicely as the back but with a little tweaking it came into position where I wanted it. I'm still not confident of the color match but tomorrow it has to go outside so I'll see how I feel about it then.
Bad color difference or just better paint on the new stuff?
Nice thing is I now have operating power windows on the passenger side of the car, even if the B3 electric windows kind of suck. The rear one is kinda slow though, I'll have to check the guide rails and felt to make sure it just isn't clogged with dirt.
Also found this when I started to diagnose the central locking system. The pump from the JY donor proved good but when the system was hooked up it still failed to pull the locks down. I isolated each door and found them all to be good except for the passenger front. Now I'm glad that when I took the replacement door I pulled the vac hose out from the car with it! Mice got to the original one:
Once I got the doors completely installed and all the wiring back through the boots and in place I tried the central locking system again and it works fine. The fuel door lock will need a little cleanup and adjustment but it does work.
Tomorrow she has to be rolled outside while I do the oil change and rear wheel bearing check on the Jetta. I'll take some pics of the passenger side then to see how I like the new doors and the color.
Steve
Got both doors completely installed today. The front didn't fit as nicely as the back but with a little tweaking it came into position where I wanted it. I'm still not confident of the color match but tomorrow it has to go outside so I'll see how I feel about it then.
Bad color difference or just better paint on the new stuff?
Nice thing is I now have operating power windows on the passenger side of the car, even if the B3 electric windows kind of suck. The rear one is kinda slow though, I'll have to check the guide rails and felt to make sure it just isn't clogged with dirt.
Also found this when I started to diagnose the central locking system. The pump from the JY donor proved good but when the system was hooked up it still failed to pull the locks down. I isolated each door and found them all to be good except for the passenger front. Now I'm glad that when I took the replacement door I pulled the vac hose out from the car with it! Mice got to the original one:
Once I got the doors completely installed and all the wiring back through the boots and in place I tried the central locking system again and it works fine. The fuel door lock will need a little cleanup and adjustment but it does work.
Tomorrow she has to be rolled outside while I do the oil change and rear wheel bearing check on the Jetta. I'll take some pics of the passenger side then to see how I like the new doors and the color.
Steve
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Abacus
That helpful B4 guy
It's screaming it to me.That tranny is whispering to me...
"O2J upgrade"
I've been driving Windex's old wagon for some time and now when I get into one of the other B4's I think the shifter is broken. Too much throw, too sloppy, and too vague. My sedan will get converted soon and the wife's b4 will just get sold.
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Yes yes, everyone pile on the dissenter....haha.
As I said, I wouldn't be opposed to the 02J shifter setup if I could easily acquire the shifter that mates to the body without having to make modifications. I really do prefer things that bolt in place as they should, from the factory. If I can find that I'll do it, otherwise....probably not at this time.
Steve
vanbcguy
Veteran Member
Yeah the Polo box really sealed the deal for me. I'm not in to hack and slash solutions plus most folks said they could hear road noise around the Mk4 shifter box as it didn't seal up the hole.
Frans (Dutch Auto Parts) can probably get everything for you. I got my shift tower and cables from him though I wasn't clever enough to ask for the Polo box at the time. His prices were extremely reasonable.
Frans (Dutch Auto Parts) can probably get everything for you. I got my shift tower and cables from him though I wasn't clever enough to ask for the Polo box at the time. His prices were extremely reasonable.
You realize you're saying this in the context of modifying a B3 to accept an AHU right?
Seriously, the modification to the O2J box (drill one hole, widen the opening in the trans tunnel in two places by 1/4", shorten and thread the shift lever by 1 1/4") Pale in comparison to the wiring and other mods to make the AHU fit in the B3.
vanbcguy
Veteran Member
The AHU will bolt in to the B3 without any modification to the car itself.
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
There's a big difference between parts that fit correctly with OE solutions and ones that have to be cut and modified in order to work properly.You realize you're saying this in the context of modifying a B3 to accept an AHU right?
Seriously, the modification to the O2J box (drill one hole, widen the opening in the trans tunnel in two places by 1/4", shorten and thread the shift lever by 1 1/4") Pale in comparison to the wiring and other mods to make the AHU fit in the B3.
Really about the only thing that isn't just a native replacement is the wiring and the ecu, otherwise everything else is just a bolt in item from another B4, a B3 or a Mk3.
I've actually made it harder than it had to be because I wanted everything fixed and finished when the engine goes in. That includes electrics, R134a AC setup, suspension etc.
TBH I don't understand why this shifter box deal bothers people so much? As much as you might think I'm making a mistake by not doing it upfront it just isn't a priority for me right now. If a Polo box shows up before I get to fitting the 02A box great, if it doesn't well I'll do the replacement later before I have the exhaust work done.
Steve
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Pulled the wagon outside today to change the oil on the Jetta. Here are the pictures...
vanbcguy
Veteran Member
The deal with the shifter is it straight up one of those things that is relatively cheap to do and super easy while the car is apart, but a big deal once it's together. The difference involved is so major you can't help but tell everyone what they are missing.
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Believe me, I can understand why now is a better time to do it, no one likes to go back in later to undo what's in the way to install a different shifter assembly. I can also understand about being excited about how much improved it is over the other but I don't have the one that fits, at least not yet. If that one comes along before I get to that point I'll feel good about installing it, otherwise the 02A will just have to do.
Steve
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Work is progressing, can't believe I haven't posted up in so long, but there have been holidays in between and a couple weeks of really cold temps, but it looks like those are behind us now, which is good.
The replacement front sub frame is in. This one came from a B3 VR that looks like it met an end early in life. It was very clean with only a minimal amount of rust. Also the control arm bolts didn't break when I dismantled it so that's a good sign. Had some good struts in my attic stockpile from a 97 Mk3 2.0 AT/AC car that I think will work alright. I had wanted something that might sit down a little lower than stock but the only thing I have is an Eibach pro damper setup for a Mk3 and although the front would be lower I don't have anything for the rears since the Mk3 rear springs (and struts btw) won't work for B3 so I opted to keep the Mk3 front springs at this point.
New front brake lines are in and also new front brake hoses. I decided a while back to replace all the brake lines and hoses since the ABS lines are somewhat different in length. The front lines are done and the font suspension is done for now, it'll need to be partially dismantled again when the axles go in but at least now it's close to being back on the ground.
So far in front it has:
new front wheel bearings
new ball joints
new strut bearings and mounts (switched to Plus suspension up top)
new tie rod ends
new rack boots
new control arm bushings (TT in the rear)
new front brake hoses
replacement bearing carriers (from my Mk3 attic stockpile)
replacement front calipers / carriers (from Mk3 attic stockpile)
new front rotors
new front pads
new stabilizer bushings
Here's what the new looks like:
Here's what it replaces - bearings shot, everything totally shot.
A few more things to attack before it can be put back down on the ground in front, then I can hit the rear beam axle / brake repairs and button up the braking system completely so it can be bled out properly.
Just about have all the parts orders done, just a couple more items to order new and then everything will be here I think. I'm sure there will be some last minute items that I didn't think about but I'll deal with those when I get to that point.
Steve
The replacement front sub frame is in. This one came from a B3 VR that looks like it met an end early in life. It was very clean with only a minimal amount of rust. Also the control arm bolts didn't break when I dismantled it so that's a good sign. Had some good struts in my attic stockpile from a 97 Mk3 2.0 AT/AC car that I think will work alright. I had wanted something that might sit down a little lower than stock but the only thing I have is an Eibach pro damper setup for a Mk3 and although the front would be lower I don't have anything for the rears since the Mk3 rear springs (and struts btw) won't work for B3 so I opted to keep the Mk3 front springs at this point.
New front brake lines are in and also new front brake hoses. I decided a while back to replace all the brake lines and hoses since the ABS lines are somewhat different in length. The front lines are done and the font suspension is done for now, it'll need to be partially dismantled again when the axles go in but at least now it's close to being back on the ground.
So far in front it has:
new front wheel bearings
new ball joints
new strut bearings and mounts (switched to Plus suspension up top)
new tie rod ends
new rack boots
new control arm bushings (TT in the rear)
new front brake hoses
replacement bearing carriers (from my Mk3 attic stockpile)
replacement front calipers / carriers (from Mk3 attic stockpile)
new front rotors
new front pads
new stabilizer bushings
Here's what the new looks like:
Here's what it replaces - bearings shot, everything totally shot.
A few more things to attack before it can be put back down on the ground in front, then I can hit the rear beam axle / brake repairs and button up the braking system completely so it can be bled out properly.
Just about have all the parts orders done, just a couple more items to order new and then everything will be here I think. I'm sure there will be some last minute items that I didn't think about but I'll deal with those when I get to that point.
Steve
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Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Finished the shifter install today and reinstalled the exhaust shield. Mounted front tires and started work on the rear axle which is in terrible shape. In fact one caliper was unbolted and pads removed so the car could be moved several years ago. The rear is just as bad as the front, fortunately I have a bunch of spare rear disc brake components I can substitute. About the only thing specific to the B chassis is the rear stub axle which has six mounting bolts versus the Mk2/3 four bolts.
In many ways this car is in worse shape systems wise than any of my past projects, even the Mk2 diesel that I dragged home from Wisconsin years ago that had been in a barn for a decade.
Steve
Some pics:
In many ways this car is in worse shape systems wise than any of my past projects, even the Mk2 diesel that I dragged home from Wisconsin years ago that had been in a barn for a decade.
Steve
Some pics:
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Stripped down the beam axle today, pulled the old worthless struts out and disconnected the brake lines / cables.
Not sure how I feel about this beam axle, it's obviously pretty rusty and the front axle mounts will need to be replaced, I'd planned on replacing those anyway.
I suspect that it's heavy enough that the rust on it is incidental but I would prefer to have one in better condition. If I got a different one from a B4 sedan I could use the coil springs too, since I found this after taking the strut assemblies out.
That last section folded over onto the rubber mounting was at one time part of the spring.
If I can find a replacement beam axle from a B4 sedan it'll have the same coil springs as the B3 wagon. It would be nice to have an axle that wasn't so rotten.
I will say though that every brake line I've dealt with on this car has come undone with a flare nut wrench without rounding off the fittings, even at the rear where the corrosion was the most aggressive. I've never had this happen before.
Steve
Not sure how I feel about this beam axle, it's obviously pretty rusty and the front axle mounts will need to be replaced, I'd planned on replacing those anyway.
I suspect that it's heavy enough that the rust on it is incidental but I would prefer to have one in better condition. If I got a different one from a B4 sedan I could use the coil springs too, since I found this after taking the strut assemblies out.
That last section folded over onto the rubber mounting was at one time part of the spring.
If I can find a replacement beam axle from a B4 sedan it'll have the same coil springs as the B3 wagon. It would be nice to have an axle that wasn't so rotten.
I will say though that every brake line I've dealt with on this car has come undone with a flare nut wrench without rounding off the fittings, even at the rear where the corrosion was the most aggressive. I've never had this happen before.
Steve
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Since we've been having unseasonably good weather albeit cool I decided that it was a good idea to get a replacement for that crusty beam axle that was on the wagon. We'll get a few more good days but we'll be back in the 20's before long.
I'm sure the old one would have been fine with new bushes but I hated the way it looked and eventually something would have given way so I trudged out to the JY (mudtown at the moment) and slaved away for several hours getting this out from under a 93 B3 VR car. I was glad to see that it was in really good shape, I lifted this car off the ground late in the fall to get some other things (front sub frame etc) so it was the easiest candidate out there. All of the other candidates are sitting on the ground and probably still frozen there.
Yes, that's a tree growing up underneath and around the rear axle, it was annoying, I had to cut away some of the smaller branches since they kept poking me in the face.
This is what the bushing ends looked like:
and the arms:
Compare to my prior post and this post showing the original axle bushing ends:
The old one was pretty nasty, I was afraid that if I rebushed it and reinstalled it eventually (or sooner) it would fail in some way. I've seen examples of where the stabilizer bar inside breaks.
I'll be inspecting the bushings in the replacement today to see if they can be kept. As much as I'd like to install new OE bushings the cost is somewhat prohibitive and new bushings weren't originally my budget anyway. The aftermarket bushings haven't gotten good reviews and they range from super cheap to moderately cheap, but comments are that they don't last. These old OE bushings might actually be good to keep if they're not torn.
Now I need to round up some replacement springs. That was the only reason to try and go after a B4 sedan rear beam, the springs are the same as B3 wagon. Oh and my coveralls got caught on some protruding piece of metal and ripped out the zipper on one leg...which made me mad since that JY is nothing but a packed in mess...
Steve
I'm sure the old one would have been fine with new bushes but I hated the way it looked and eventually something would have given way so I trudged out to the JY (mudtown at the moment) and slaved away for several hours getting this out from under a 93 B3 VR car. I was glad to see that it was in really good shape, I lifted this car off the ground late in the fall to get some other things (front sub frame etc) so it was the easiest candidate out there. All of the other candidates are sitting on the ground and probably still frozen there.
Yes, that's a tree growing up underneath and around the rear axle, it was annoying, I had to cut away some of the smaller branches since they kept poking me in the face.
This is what the bushing ends looked like:
and the arms:
Compare to my prior post and this post showing the original axle bushing ends:
The old one was pretty nasty, I was afraid that if I rebushed it and reinstalled it eventually (or sooner) it would fail in some way. I've seen examples of where the stabilizer bar inside breaks.
I'll be inspecting the bushings in the replacement today to see if they can be kept. As much as I'd like to install new OE bushings the cost is somewhat prohibitive and new bushings weren't originally my budget anyway. The aftermarket bushings haven't gotten good reviews and they range from super cheap to moderately cheap, but comments are that they don't last. These old OE bushings might actually be good to keep if they're not torn.
Now I need to round up some replacement springs. That was the only reason to try and go after a B4 sedan rear beam, the springs are the same as B3 wagon. Oh and my coveralls got caught on some protruding piece of metal and ripped out the zipper on one leg...which made me mad since that JY is nothing but a packed in mess...
Steve
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Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Thanks, actually repaired the coveralls so they're back in service...lol. Boy am I glad I went out and got that axle when I did! We just got dumped on with snow, somewhere north of 12" here, which isn't as bad as the east coast got last weekend but here it was wet heavy stuff.
Lost a big branch from a pine tree onto the roof from the heavy snow. Tree was (ill-advisedly) planted about 4' from the house. The branch broke way above where I could knock the snow down with a pole. I actually still have branches laying on the garage roof although those aren't broken, just weighted down with snow. I'll deal with those tomorrow at some point but we're now back in the brink again temp wise, -5 last night but warming through the rest of the week.
Pine tree branch still on the house but I think it's frozen in place up there now. Dealing with that later in the week when it's less treacherous up there.
At any rate I wouldn't want to try and retrieve that rear axle now, everything out there will be covered!
Car update: fuel tank drained and out, ready for the diesel tank / sender that has yet to be retrieved. I need to do that, maybe I'll get a chance in the next week or so to make that trip. New rear struts assembled with replacement springs from the white donor wagon pictured previously. That car had 101k odometer miles so I think they'll be good.
Next up, fishing diesel fuel lines up into the engine compartment.
Steve
Zed.
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2015
- Location
- Wales (UK)
- TDI
- '89 B3 T'die Passat wagon. '95 T4 van (1Z T'die converted). '87 mk2 Golf AHU tdi converted /02a etc. '92 & '95 200tdi Landrover Discovery
I find this interesting as well as 'deja-vu' as this time last year I bought a previously converted B3 (from 1.6td to 1.9 tdi using the engine & wiring from an audi 80, maybe 1993 it was converted by 'TSR' as a demonstrator??) but the company who did the conversion just overlaid the audi's more simple ecu & wiring over the original B3 td engine loom, this was messy & lacked the diagnostic connectors (& wiring to ecu!!) as well as having the throttle potentiometer operated by the original throttle cable mounted below the water expansion bottle (great when the car has a doomed head gasket )
I re-converted with a Mk3 golf engine/box/loom & B4tdi pedal box, only real issue I have is the mk3 loom doesn't fit as neatly as a B4 around the bulkhead & inner wing where the ecu wiring runs (I live in Wales, UK so RHD)
and I have used the original B3 td inter cooler & pipework as it was fitted (the tdi's inlet air temp sender is just 'dangling' on top of the gearbox) ) as I have not had time / got around to fitting the B4 tdi pipework & inter cooler that should be a direct replacement hopefully.
also fitted a B4 tdi cross member to use the later 'hydraulic' engine mount & as the original cross member was rotten with a worn steering rack (mk3 rack identical but may have different track-arms / drumsticks, mk3 & 2 crossmembers interchangable with each other but NOT B3 & 4 as front mount is diferent, mk3 wishbones fit B3 & 4 but slightly diferent))
(shame as my '89 has a horrible gear change, probrbly doomed cables)
been thinking of the 02j? shifter mod for a while now, another of those jobs on the list
on the plus side, cruise is easy on the tdi as the wiring (4 wires) is in the loom by fusebox just needs lengthening & connecting to stalk also the speedo sensor fits in place of the cable on the gearbox drive (but you then need a speedo cluster with electronic speedo & it's sub-loom) just vag-com to activate
you can use petrol dash clusters & their sub-loom to fusebox, just no glowplug light, but higher taco limit & maybe a flashing water level light but this is the miss-match of the looms & fusebox, http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?183502-coolant-level-sender-wiring
might explain.
I have one in mine as the proper tdi clusters are sorta hard to find with mfa & electronic speedo
Rich. (too many cars, not enough time)
)I re-converted with a Mk3 golf engine/box/loom & B4tdi pedal box, only real issue I have is the mk3 loom doesn't fit as neatly as a B4 around the bulkhead & inner wing where the ecu wiring runs (I live in Wales, UK so RHD)
and I have used the original B3 td inter cooler & pipework as it was fitted (the tdi's inlet air temp sender is just 'dangling' on top of the gearbox
) ) as I have not had time / got around to fitting the B4 tdi pipework & inter cooler that should be a direct replacement hopefully.also fitted a B4 tdi cross member to use the later 'hydraulic' engine mount & as the original cross member was rotten with a worn steering rack (mk3 rack identical but may have different track-arms / drumsticks, mk3 & 2 crossmembers interchangable with each other but NOT B3 & 4 as front mount is diferent, mk3 wishbones fit B3 & 4 but slightly diferent))
I tried mk3 stick/shifter & cables in my B3, the cabling was too short & getting first gear was just impossible
(shame as my '89 has a horrible gear change, probrbly doomed cables)been thinking of the 02j? shifter mod for a while now, another of those jobs on the list
on the plus side, cruise is easy on the tdi as the wiring (4 wires) is in the loom by fusebox just needs lengthening & connecting to stalk
also the speedo sensor fits in place of the cable on the gearbox drive (but you then need a speedo cluster with electronic speedo & it's sub-loom) just vag-com to activate you can use petrol dash clusters & their sub-loom to fusebox, just no glowplug light, but higher taco limit & maybe a flashing water level light but this is the miss-match of the looms & fusebox, http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?183502-coolant-level-sender-wiring
might explain.
I have one in mine as the proper tdi clusters are sorta hard to find with mfa & electronic speedo
Rich. (too many cars, not enough time)
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Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
It sounds like the conversion you acquired was very messy. When conversions don't involve wholesale rewiring it just becomes an unorganized mess that is very difficult to diagnose and fix, and often times they have to be completely undone in order to resolve the problems, that or they're just shelved and sold to someone else to resolve.
Yes, there are some differences in the wiring harness for the Mk3 vs the B4, it's not as clean of an install as a native chassis change, then again the B4 port to bulkhead is not the same as the B3 either so there are still some differences.
My reason for sticking with the Mk3 harness has more to do with the ECU and some pinout differences between the B4 and Mk3. Discussion in the B4/Mk3 forum is ECU should go with harness to avoid any complications.
As for the shifter, I still am holding out hope of getting the Polo shifter box although that seems to be fading somewhat. The components are available here but the budget has already been stretched to fix things that were assumed good at the beginning that were not after digging in. This is perhaps exemplified by the condition of the rear beam axle and components at the rear of the car but it's really been throughout the whole of the project really. At present I have installed a B4 shifter assembly and cables so there shouldn't be any problems with shortness of cables between shifter and trans. I did go back a while ago and look at the part numbers for the shifter cables and they are different from Mk3 to B4 so it looks like it was a good idea to get the B4 box after all. If the Polo box presents itself before the exhaust is installed I'll probably rework the arrangement then or work with the exhaust installer to be sure and make the forward section of the exhaust removable so I can rework the shifter. It's unlikely there will be a catalyst on this car unless a good downpipe / cat shows up in the near term.
I have a B4 tdi cluster to use in place of the Mk3 tdi cluster. I have a little repair work to do on it before installing but one has been found. I also have the cluster wiring harness too which I got from the B4 tdi in Omaha a couple months ago.
Once I get the fuel tank installed and rear axle / brakes done it'll be back into the wiring part along with the install of the new hvac housing. Once I get there it'll be pretty much ready for the engine / trans to go in although I have some maintenance work to do on the engine / trans before that time is here.
Steve
Yes, there are some differences in the wiring harness for the Mk3 vs the B4, it's not as clean of an install as a native chassis change, then again the B4 port to bulkhead is not the same as the B3 either so there are still some differences.
My reason for sticking with the Mk3 harness has more to do with the ECU and some pinout differences between the B4 and Mk3. Discussion in the B4/Mk3 forum is ECU should go with harness to avoid any complications.
As for the shifter, I still am holding out hope of getting the Polo shifter box although that seems to be fading somewhat. The components are available here but the budget has already been stretched to fix things that were assumed good at the beginning that were not after digging in. This is perhaps exemplified by the condition of the rear beam axle and components at the rear of the car but it's really been throughout the whole of the project really. At present I have installed a B4 shifter assembly and cables so there shouldn't be any problems with shortness of cables between shifter and trans. I did go back a while ago and look at the part numbers for the shifter cables and they are different from Mk3 to B4 so it looks like it was a good idea to get the B4 box after all. If the Polo box presents itself before the exhaust is installed I'll probably rework the arrangement then or work with the exhaust installer to be sure and make the forward section of the exhaust removable so I can rework the shifter. It's unlikely there will be a catalyst on this car unless a good downpipe / cat shows up in the near term.
I have a B4 tdi cluster to use in place of the Mk3 tdi cluster. I have a little repair work to do on it before installing but one has been found. I also have the cluster wiring harness too which I got from the B4 tdi in Omaha a couple months ago.
Once I get the fuel tank installed and rear axle / brakes done it'll be back into the wiring part along with the install of the new hvac housing. Once I get there it'll be pretty much ready for the engine / trans to go in although I have some maintenance work to do on the engine / trans before that time is here.
Steve
vw_nut
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2005
- Location
- Beechgrove, TN, 37018
- TDI
- , 1981 VW pickup TDI Conversion, , 2000 Golf TDI,1985 Cabriolet 16V,2006 jetta
Steve, originally being from Iowa I truly forgot how rusty things get there, I commend your work, having to deal with rust I'm not sure how eager I would be to doing a swap there, nice work love the wagon
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Yeah, things can get pretty rusty up here, but this one is really worse than most. They let it sit for so long and didn't do much maintenance even when it was running.
Had this been a running driving car when I got it I'd probably be done by now, then again even those end up needing quite a bit of the foregone maintenance work done.
At this point I'm just trying to repair anything that could present itself as a problem within the first year. I'd like to take this directly from my garage to the road (with a stop at the alignment shop and the exhaust place). If there's a chance that I'd have to go back in to do something soon after it's up and running I'd like to take care of it now versus after it's moving.
Easier to do it now even though it's a distraction from the main event.
Steve
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Minor update, ripped out the old FI system and fuel lines, installed the new fuel lines without thinking about differences between sedan and wagon...d'oh! The lines aren't long enough but I can add more hose to make the connection or try and get the lines from the wagon that's donor for the tank / sender unit. It might be easier to just add hose since the B4 that donated the lines I have didn't have any one way valves back at the tank like I expected to find. I also failed to get the ones off the 98 Jetta that donated the engine / etc so I'm left rooting around for some. I had some off a Mk2 diesel fuel tank I have but scavenged those for the Fox diesel conversion. Can't seem to locate a part number in the catalog for these and I can't find a pic that even shows them installed, Mk3 or B4.
Old rotten FI (pump might actually work)
Also extracted the old rear axle bushings so it would be ready when the new ones get here next Wednesday. The old ones would probably have been ok but for how long I couldn't say. I just hope that the new ones last, the aftermarket replacements don't have a very good rep and the VW ones are a tad on the spendy side.
The rear end completely empty.
Another thing I keep forgetting to get is a replacement rear brake pressure regulator. The one on the B3V is shot but also it's a three hole version for the ABS cars and not the 4 hole version I need now with non-ABS. Hopefully I can find one that'll work, new they're on the more expensive side.
In the meantime while I wait for stuff to get here I'm going after the engine side of things, time to pull the flywheel and replace the pan, pan gasket, front and rear main seals and anything else that looks needy. Also have decided to pull the cylinder head (I think) and make sure everything is ok. New clutch kit is here, new trans output flange seals and release bearing guide tube.
First part of the week I'll have to make a trip to get the fuel tank and some other bits.
All for now
Steve
Old rotten FI (pump might actually work)
Also extracted the old rear axle bushings so it would be ready when the new ones get here next Wednesday. The old ones would probably have been ok but for how long I couldn't say. I just hope that the new ones last, the aftermarket replacements don't have a very good rep and the VW ones are a tad on the spendy side.
The rear end completely empty.
Another thing I keep forgetting to get is a replacement rear brake pressure regulator. The one on the B3V is shot but also it's a three hole version for the ABS cars and not the 4 hole version I need now with non-ABS. Hopefully I can find one that'll work, new they're on the more expensive side.
In the meantime while I wait for stuff to get here I'm going after the engine side of things, time to pull the flywheel and replace the pan, pan gasket, front and rear main seals and anything else that looks needy. Also have decided to pull the cylinder head (I think) and make sure everything is ok. New clutch kit is here, new trans output flange seals and release bearing guide tube.
First part of the week I'll have to make a trip to get the fuel tank and some other bits.
All for now
Steve
vanbcguy
Veteran Member
Considering what a bear those bushings are to do I'd pay the extra for the real ones....
Zed.
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2015
- Location
- Wales (UK)
- TDI
- '89 B3 T'die Passat wagon. '95 T4 van (1Z T'die converted). '87 mk2 Golf AHU tdi converted /02a etc. '92 & '95 200tdi Landrover Discovery
I was going to get a B4 tdi rear axle for mine today (hope B3 7 4 wagon & saloon are the same, I have a B3 wagon & have found a breaker B4 saloon )
so the debate on rear bushings is very interesting as I don't want to be changing them too often
unfortunately I had a 530 mile round trip to collect a horsebox for my Mrs. so no bits (but the t'die & B3 wagon handled it perfectly)
to be fair, I'm jealous of the spares you can find as most old B3's (& B4's for that matter) have been turned into tin-cans here
Rich.
)so the debate on rear bushings is very interesting as I don't want to be changing them too often
unfortunately I had a 530 mile round trip to collect a horsebox for my Mrs. so no bits
(but the t'die & B3 wagon handled it perfectly)to be fair, I'm jealous of the spares you can find as most old B3's (& B4's for that matter) have been turned into tin-cans here
Rich.
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Actually, the bushings are only a pivot point, the entire rear weight is born by the struts and springs.
My real concern is how quickly the replacements will break down from fore / aft movement. The factory bushings have proven to be poorly designed from the start so the replacements are likely no better since they've all been patterned after the originals. I'm just not in the mood to drop $200+ for new bushings back here, at least not this year.
Steve
Steve Addy
Top Post Dawg
Sorry, misread your comment, yes, they are a bear to do. I know I've read that you can change them without dropping the beam but I would think that might put a good deal of stress on the brake lines too. I would prefer a solution that doesn't require a yearly fix but that might not exist. I've found a company in Poland that makes them in poly but not sure if I really want those or not. On the plus side I'm trying to get the correct tool for the install from a company in Poland.
In the US at least the B3 estate shared rear springs with the B4 saloon, the B4 estate got a different spring I guess. I was just glad to get some springs that weren't totally junk. I think the ones I got should be alright, the car only had 101k miles on the odometer.I was going to get a B4 tdi rear axle for mine today (hope B3 7 4 wagon & saloon are the same, I have a B3 wagon & have found a breaker B4 saloon
so the debate on rear bushings is very interesting as I don't want to be changing them too often
unfortunately I had a 530 mile round trip to collect a horsebox for my Mrs. so no bits
to be fair, I'm jealous of the spares you can find as most old B3's (& B4's for that matter) have been turned into tin-cans here
Rich.
My big concern is the front springs, they're from a MK3 2.0 AT car and they are the same colors as the B4 estate got (at least from what I can tell) so I'm hoping that they don't lift the B3 to much if any. If they do I'll have to look or something to lower it a bit.
I am fortunate to have so many parts cars in close proximity, but others don't have that luxury. It just so happens that a JY about 35 minutes away has a whole slew of them just now, I think 2 B3's and 6 B4's. Unfortunately all those are saloons, but a 1990 variant wandered in to my local JY and I've gotten about all I need off that car.
Weather was ok here today so I went back to the JY to retrieve these:
I spent the entire afternoon yesterday trying to get a decent pair of rear calipers working. Out of eight rear calipers I ended up with only one good left one and a good right one without working e-brake so I said screw that and went and got a good pair of Mk4 rear aluminum calipers instead. I was worried that they'd already crushed this car out but luckily they hadn't. It's the only Mk4 left in there.
I also made one last visit to the apline B3 wagon I got the doors from and removed the roof seam cover strip that's under the passenger side roof rail. It wasn't perfect but it was a lot better than mine.
Now just waiting on some parts, back to cleaning up and clearing space so I can work on the engine and trans. Rear beam bushings here on Wednesday, tool to install might take longer to get here.
Steve
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