What is involved with a CV Joint Replacement?

STRANGETDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2001
Location
East Hampton, CT
TDI
2013 Audi A3 S-Line Premium Plus Quattro - APR Stage II
Hey everyone,

I was at mycruiseagent's house the other day and we were trying to figure out what was causing some "wierd braking" issues. After test driving and checking rotors and pads, he discovered that my passenger CV joint was shot. There was grease everywhere in side the wheel and all over the joint, the boot was broken apart. So my question is, what is involved in replacing this part or parts? I don't think I can do this myself but if can get all the parts I need, I know a very good VW/Audi independent that I can take it to, and at least save money on parts. Oldpoopie was a name that Mark (mycruiseagent) mentioned to me that could possibly do the work. I was also going to do my rear brakes this weekend (thanks to mca for the brake tool), but after struggling trying to get a rusted rotor off for an hour, I gave up and put everything back on. I figured that I would just get the CV joint replaced and the rears together at the shop. Saturday seemed like a wasted day. Is there a "How to" for this?
 

Herm TDI

Vendor
Joined
Nov 21, 2001
Location
Richmond, Maine...The far side of Witsend
TDI
2002 Golf GLS Malone Stage 3, P+520 nozzles, 11MM Inj pump, Sachs VR6 clutch, Stelth Race Pipe, Immo Deleat, EGR Deleat
My question would be to find the cause of the CV boot failure.If the left (driver's) side CV boot is in good condition I would be looking for the cause of the right (passenger) side boot failure. These boots tend to last a long time under "normal" service conditions.
 

abctdi

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 31, 2004
Location
ABQ, NM, USA
TDI
2005 Passat GLS
Better to replace the whole drive axle than just one joint. Cost is almost the same usually...
 

STRANGETDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2001
Location
East Hampton, CT
TDI
2013 Audi A3 S-Line Premium Plus Quattro - APR Stage II
Long story short:

It turns out that I don't have any slowdown shudder. I had a bad CV joint. After that was replaced, the shaking was still there. It turns out that I had a bent hub. The hub was replaced along with the bearings. The shaking was minimized but still there, present in brake pedal pulsing. Front rotors were changed. Pads and rotors were changed a few months ago, I guess the rotors were warped when I got them, or having a bent hub warped them. With the new rotors in, no more shaking. All is well. So basically I never had slow down shudder. Just wanted to clarify.

Need to give a "shout" to People's Auto in Somers, CT. They specialize in VW/Audi vehicles. I was contacted every step of the way regarding what needed to be done. They were awesome.
 
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