Intermittent accelerator pedal: replaced with new same problems

Unresponsive accelerator pedal: replaced with new same problems

Edit - this now happens every cold start. I appreciate the help in advance!

On my 2006 Volkswagen Golf Automatic with 228k miles, when you first start the car there is no response from the accelerator pedal.

I replaced it with an OEM part from ID parts, and the same problem exists with the new part. I had the Rockford TDI guy scan it with Vagcom and there were no codes for the pedal, but we both thought it might not hurt to try to replacing the peddle and thought the potentiometer in the peddle was bad.

The car will start an idle, Even in Park it will not respond, or from park to reverse, I have to shift into neutral back to either reverse or drive while feathering the pedal for it to start working. The only time it is intermittent is at start. Once the pedal works, it works for the rest of the time I am driving.
What other things should I look at?

Bump for a Monday, happens all the time now on cold start.

Look at the engine data for brake "pedal" input.

If the ECU sees the brake pedal switch circuit active, it will not allow the engine RPM to go much over idle speed.

oilhammer said:

Look at the engine data for brake "pedal" input.
If the ECU sees the brake pedal switch circuit active, it will not allow the engine RPM to go much over idle speed.

Click to expand...

What values or data am I looking at it to tell me? Is there a way to say it is bad? If it is, does that’s mean I need a new 4-pin brake light switch? If that’s the case, since there’s only $11.10 on IDparts, I might just order one and try it since I’m. It sure when I can bring my Golf in next to have it looked at. (I don’t have VCDS)

You are looking at pedal inputs. You need a scan tool that speaks Volkswagen.

Throwing parts at something is unwise, a better investment if you do not want to take it to someone is get yourself a scan tool (such as VCDS).

I would also want to check the TCM for any DTCs.

oilhammer said:

You are looking at pedal inputs. You need a scan tool that speaks Volkswagen.

Throwing parts at something is unwise, a better investment if you do not want to take it to someone is get yourself a scan tool (such as VCDS).

I would also want to check the TCM for any DTCs.

Click to expand...

I had it scanned again by RockfordTDIguy and the accelerator pedal shows 0's and 1's when the accelerator pedal is pushed. So we believe the Accelerator pedal is fine.

My Brake Light Switch is still the purple colored one, with OEM number 1J0945511D, date 01.08.05. The Dealer looked at it since my 2006 Golf had an open recall for the brake light switch, and they said it already had the "right" part in it, so no need to change it out.

However, what we did do is take a used "green" (PN 1C0945511A) brake light switch Kirk had from a parts car and install it. This did not resolve the problem, but created a new problem. The "green" brake light switch plunger is not long enough for the brake pedal to come up and press it in all the way, so the brake lights stay on all the time. What I have done to remedy this for now while testing, is use a bungee cord to pull up on the brake pedal, so my brake lights turn off when I am not pushing on the brake pedal.

Using VCDS, and scanning for codes, this is what was found:

1. 16502 - Engine Temp. Sensor (G62) - P0118 - 000 - Signal too High
2. 16512 - Coolant Thermostat Valve (N214) P0128 - 000 - Temperature below Control Range
3. 00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93) 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
4. 00526 - Brake Light Switch (F) 28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent
5. NOTE 1: These were soft codes, the DTC dash light was not on
6. NOTE 2: The Thermostat was replaced, so the thermostat code may just be an "old" code

You cannot install a used brake light switch. They self adjust upon installation. So you need a new one now regardless.

The new switch will come in a bag with instructions. Read them carefully before you install it.

Luckily, they are cheap.

Install that, clear ALL your DTCs, make sure the brake switch signal is correct in the Engine data with a scan tool.

I battled with this dead "go" pedal problem on a B5.5 Passat and A4 Jetta ...both are PD cars and both with automatic transmission. I never did find out the solution...Always when cold and eventually started to work normally once the engine warmed up a bit.
No codes, pedal response was showing in VCDS in both the ECU and TCU. Brake switch was working normally.
Had to throw in the towel.

The TCM can also request low engine output if something is not correct. Not sure exactly how/where you'd find that.

Every BHW car (including my own) seems pretty lethargic when taking off from a dead stop right after a cold start to me, but they DO drive, it isn't like they simply cannot go above idle.

I replaced the brake light switch, went in easy after reading the directions twice. No surprise I still have intermittent starting issues after the fact. However with the weather warming up now, it is happening less and less. It may be something I end of living with.

I am going to get my car scanned again tonight, and see if I have any new or old codes coming back up. Anyone know if the automatic transmission code is common or could be related to the starting issues?

00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93) 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Appreciate the help and will update after I get it scanned again.

You'll need a new ATF temp sensor, which is part of the harness INSIDE the transmission.

Technically, you would need to take the transmission apart to get at it. There is a workaround for that I have used successfully and it seems to work just fine.

Buy the new harness, then cut the temp sensor out of it, and splice it into the existing harness in the transmission and bolt it on to a valve body attachment bolt somewhere under the front cover, I usually try for one down low. You will need to remove the front cover to do this, which is a somewhat big job (lots of stuff in the way) but not awful.



That is a picture of a Jatco equipped car (in this case, a 1.8t engine, but the trans is the same) and even once the front of the car is removed, you can still hardly see the front cover. The harnesses (both engine and transmission), the PS pressure line, and the gear range sensor, are all in the way.

To be honest, at 237k miles, I would suggest also replacing the valve body or at least all the solenoids while you are in there.

@oilhammer - What is the trade-off of not replacing the ATF sensor?

The transmission shifts great right now. I had the discussion last night with TheRockfordTDIguy about transmission preventative maintenance in light of the car having 237K miles on it. I am wondering how much I do, or how much life expectancy I can get out of an automatic transmission. Things I am pondering is do I fix the sensor issue, do I do a transmssion flush if even possible?

The Cam is not too bad right now, and TheRockfordTIDguy estimates I can get another 40,000-50,000 miles out of my cam. So I have to weigh the pros and cons of what I fix, against the remaining life expectancy of my car.

Love to hear your thoughts!

I think you may just have what you are already having, I think the TCM defaults to something, then gets input from the ECU and uses maybe fuel temp value for shift logic on these, not really sure.

Italian controlled Japanese transmission in a Volkswagen.... what could possibly go wrong?