ALH TDI engine transplant into '84 Vanagon

AndyBees

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May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Heating system

Did you put any rigid insulation under the slab or PEX tubing for heat in the concrete?
In short no!

I did consider doing just that. In fact, I done some research on the PEX tubing heat system, both on-line and locally. One local buidling supplier carries everything necessary to set-up a system.

It's a long story that I'll not bore you with. But, circumstances beyond my control caused the project to be put off over 4 years.

So, I am glad to be moving now.
 
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Jayg

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Oct 23, 2012
Location
Anchorage, AK
TDI
'12 Jetta 6MT-VW bought back as a lemon
Love the van, glad you are getting to enjoy it! Great thread and great pictures!
 

AndyBees

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Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Well, we got the other half of the concrete slab poured for my new garage. Gees! We were up until 3:00 this morning polishing, etc.

Okay, this afternoon after cleaning up the work mess, I headed for my little garage to tiddy up so I could get the Vanagon back in there.

I've had a TB kit for several days that needs installed. I will also pull the valve train cover to see if anything is going on with the Cam/Lifters (remember the rattle).

And, I going to see what's up with the right motor mount bracket that popped the head of one of the block bolts.

......... maybe a few pics later tonight!
 

AndyBees

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Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Well, darn, I am disgusted to no end. The right motor mount bracket is a piece of ..... It will have to be totally re-engineered!

I am so disgusted ...... not even going to post the pics.

The biggest problem is that the return pipe from the bottom of the round coolant canister is right in the way of the "third" bolt that must come out to remove the bracket. And, since the O-ring (or whatever it is) is leaking on that pipe where it goes into the back of the water pump housing (cast into the block), I may just re-locate that T on the pipe. The coolant must be drained to do the TB job, so this will be a good time to address all this with an improved mount bracket and re-locating the pipe.

The motor mount bracket is bent and the "force" snapped the bolt head off. I was able to remove the bolt with my fingers.

I always figured the left mounting bracket would be the troubling one! It is just fine.

I'll follow-up with the pics tomorrow ........ it's been a long day! The concrete work yesterday and last night was really demanding!
 

AndyBees

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Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update

Okay, I'm in a better mood today ......:D

Below are a couple of pics of the motor mount bracket with the broken bolt. (The dust is from driving back roads to the trail heads we hike on the weekends.) (All comments are at the top of each photo)


In the pic below, the reinforcing brace (rebar) has been removed. That stud was easily removed just with my finger tips.


Just to bring you up to speed, the pic below reflects the area I'm dealing with.....



Okay, below, as promised, are three pics of the second half "pour" of the concrete slab to my future TDI tinkering hang-out garage.

In this pic, you are looking north with the entrance to the garage area to the right. It will be a 30 foot X 54 foot structure when finished ........Yep, that's a 72 Beetle in the background. If you look just up and to the right of the guy with the red shirt, you can barely see the top of my ol' 83 Vanagon ... the one we've driven to Alaska 7 times since 1986~!


Here you can see my workers dealing with the first of 10.5 cubic yards of Cement as it flows from the Ready-mix Truck.


In this pic, you are looking in the other direction toward the old barn. That barn is over 80 years old and is actually in better condition that it looks. The left side has been jacked-up about 18 inches. The whole thing will be raised three block high (two feet) and the new garage built into it. (new roof of course). In this pic, the concrete bull float has been pushed/pulled over the cement one time........ we did not get finished paddling until 3:00 in the morning (over 12 hours later)


Well, I have the TDI Vanagon in the little garage with the right engine mount bracket out. I plan to improve the bracket, install a new upgraded flywheel/clutch, and do the TB job while it is in there!;)
 

jackbombay

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Joined
Mar 12, 2002
Location
Diesel knows best
TDI
A4 Jetta
the concrete bull float has been pushed/pulled over the cement one time........ we did not get finished paddling until 3:00 in the morning (over 12 hours later)
Cement is an ingredient of concrete, the stuff that fell out of the ready mix truck is most certainly concrete ;)

It sounds like you didn't you have any accelerator in the concrete, why not? I know it reduces the final strength, but not much, and it could have saved you 6 hours.
 

ELM

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Joined
May 25, 2011
Location
Sutter Creek CA
TDI
2002 Beetle 5 speed swap
If you could put a bracket on top top mount for the rebar that attached to two bolts it would be much stronger.
With With only one bolt and it being to the side of it you would get a lot twist/movement in that rebar when there is torque from the engine.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Cement is an ingredient of concrete, the stuff that fell out of the ready mix truck is most certainly concrete ;)

It sounds like you didn't have any accelerator in the concrete, why not? I know it reduces the final strength, but not much, and it could have saved you 6 hours.
Yeah, I know the difference in concrete and cement ....LOL:D Just used the terms loosely. And, yes, you are so right about the accelerator. However, we opted for hot water which worked fine on the end that was poured first. By the time we got near the barn, the cement in the truck had begin to cool down. Also, the area of the pour next to the barn gets no sun light, thus the ground was very cold if not frozen. I am very satisfied with the outcome. I took the tarps off this past Friday afternoon that were used to protect the concrete from the barn drip. It look really great. Oddly, the control cracks have not appeared, yet!

Some 10.9 or 12.9 bolts might do the trick on that mount. 8.8's are butter bolts for low stress apps.
Yep, the bolts I am using are 8.8s. I need to modify the brace so that both of the bolts are involved on that end and go with the stronger bolts.

Well, I've really not done anything since putting it in the garage (sort of been under the weather lately).

While the Van is in the garage, as I may have already said, I need to do the TB job, fix a coolant leak and replace the flywheel and clutch.

I know most would not go this way, but it appears that a DMF and matching Pressure Plate, with a 228mm WaterBoxer Clutch Disc, will work just fine. Maybe the "rattle" I've been hearing is the SMF ....... just don't know. Changing this "stuff" out on the Vanagon is far easier than with a Jetta/Golf/NB/Passat....... so, I guesss you could say this will be experimental.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
ELM, apparently I responded just after you posted.

You are correct. The set-up would be much stronger if the brace was modified to accommodate both of those bolts as opposed to only one of them.

Good point!
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update

Okay, other than placing the Van up on jack stands over a week ago, I've not done much until this evening. (I did do some on-line research and sent a few PMs to gurus)

So, relating to the clutch slipping issues (EDIT: this is what's in my Vanagon>>>> 215mm clutch for a 1.6L engine) and possible use of a TDI DMF (228mm clutch), here is what I've learned.

I set out to mount a DMF on a 1.6L engine, then install a vanagon diesel bell housing, and install a vanagon diesel starter to see if all would work. The bolt pattern on the 1.6L crankshaft and bolt threads are the same for both engines. (Bolt heads are different) (for those learning, the bolt patterns on the end of the block are the same for the two engines [1974-2003 for sure])

Here is what I ran into. The Dust Cover from the Vanagon application that goes behind the flywheel (between the engine block and bellhousing) will not allow the use of the DMF.

The pics below show what I have encountered. (comments at top of pics) (By the way, this a Turbo 1.6 engine ...future project:D)

First a little history ..... notice in the pic below, you are looking at the 1.6L engine flywheel as used with the Rabbits, Jettas, etc., of the era (MK1 and probably later models). The flywheel is bolted to the pressure plate which is bolted to the crankshaft.


In the pic below, you can see the pressure plate (without clutch disc) and the center thingy functions as a throw-out bearing.


Below is a shot of the crankshaft after the pressure plate and dust cover for the Rabbit application have been removed.


Below is a pic showing the Dust Cover from a Vanagon Diesel application. The engine is laying over to the right close to a 40 degree angle (head is at about the 1:30 position)
Notice the "form" of the Dust Cover, especially around the crankshaft and downward toward the left. That part going down toward about the 7:30 position will not allow bolting-up the DMF (rubs).


The pic below shows the dust cover from the side and you can also see the DMF laying there at the end of the engine. The bolt area is recessed so much that there is no clearance due to the configration of the dust cover.


This is another shot from the side.


Below is a close-up of the dust cover from the side.


Below are a couple of pics showing the SMF that's presently in use. As stated previously, it is a 215mm from a 1.6L engine.







I do not have a pic of the 1.6L engine flywheel from the crankshaft side. However, I do believe it must be raised to provide adequate clearance of the dust cover.

Seems in all my research (going back two or three years), I read where someone modified the dust cover for use of a particular flywheel. However, I feel certain it was not for a DMF.

So, the question becomes, will I need to modify the dust cover if I use anything besides the OE Flywheel that come on the 1.6L engine?

Suggestions, links, ....
 
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jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
I would think a manual Tdi dust cover would work fine .... Possibly one from an mkiii would work better.... I guess my question to you is why would do you want to use a DMF? .... Failure is not a matter of if but when... You can use an mkiii Tdi flywheel, b4 Tdi flywheel, b4 16v flywheel, or a g60 flywheel and a vr6 clutch... FailProof combo
 
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AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Yeah, Jimbote, you are right! I do have an engine rattle and after continually trying to isolate it, sort of think it's the SMF. So, as I stated in a previous post, going with a DMF would be experimental. Changing this out is far easier than doing the same work on a Jetta, etc.

Well, at this point, I'm probably going to go ahead and do a B4 TDI Flywheel.
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
are we still talking about the ALH motor in your vanagon or a 1.6? I'm really confused.

The exact opposite problem occurs when swapping an auto ALH to manual. You may use the auto dust shield with a DMF but you may not use it if you are equipping the car with a SMF. You may however modify the auto shield to accommodate the SMF by grinding out the largest of the two curved ribs on the shield.

Why don't you just use a manual shield, a B4/MKIII/G60 FW and a Sachs K70038-01 MKIII TDI clutch kit. No rattles and it holds just as much as a VR6 kit. My assumption that this assembly will fit in your bellhousing is based on this comment:

Well, at this point, I'm probably going to go ahead and do a B4 TDI Flywheel.
 
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AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Clutch

are we still talking about the ALH motor in your vanagon or a 1.6? I'm really confused.

The exact opposite problem occurs when swapping an auto ALH to manual. You may use the auto dust shield with a DMF but you may not use it if you are equipping the car with a SMF. You may however modify the auto shield to accommodate the SMF by grinding out the largest of the two curved ribs on the shield.

Why don't you just use a manual shield, a B4/MKIII/G60 FW and a Sachs K70038-01 MKIII TDI clutch kit. No rattles and it holds just as much as a VR6 kit. My assumption that this assembly will fit in your bellhousing is based on this comment:
Yep, we/me talking about the ALH engine.

I was using a 1.6L engine I have sitting in the garage to see if the DMF would work with the Vanagon Diesel Bellhousing and starter (I have extras of the BH and starter).

The dust cover matches the configuration of the Vanagon Diesel Bellhousing. Anything else allows large open spaces.

I may modify the dust cover or modify an MK1 dust cover. Either way, will require material removal.

Changing the flywheel/clutch in a Vanagon is a breeze compared to a Jetta, Golf, NB, etc. So, while I have the Van in my garage for the TB job, repairing the right engine mount, etc., I thought it would be a good time to address the slipping clutch and rattle. The rattle may or may not be coming from the SMF.

Whatever FW/Pressure plate combo I use, it will require the use of a Vanagon clutch disc from a 1.9 or 2.0 gasser engine due to the Input Shaft splines being different on the Vanagon transmission.....:cool:

Hope that clears up things!
 
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markward

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Jul 5, 2007
Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
TDI
82 Vanagon and 2011 JSW
Andy, I am running without a dust cover. Can't remember why I did not reuse the original one since I am using the stock diesel clutch. Anyhow, unless you are driving through creeks, I don't think it is a problem. The bell housing faces backwards so no dirt or snow will get shoved in there. When my stock diesel clutch starts to fail, I will readdress the clutch then. Thanks for the updates. mark
 

markd89

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Oct 21, 2009
Location
Los Angeles
TDI
1978 VW Bus 1Z TDI
Andy, I am running without a dust cover. Can't remember why I did not reuse the original one since I am using the stock diesel clutch. Anyhow, unless you are driving through creeks, I don't think it is a problem. The bell housing faces backwards so no dirt or snow will get shoved in there. When my stock diesel clutch starts to fail, I will readdress the clutch then. Thanks for the updates. mark
Also, to add -- I'm using Kennedy's flywheel and adapter, a stock clutch disc and heavy duty LUK pressure plate. I don't remember what the problem was, but the dust cover would not fit in this setup...
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
The OE dust cover for the Vanagon 1.6 Diesel engine does not have the same hole aligment as on the TDI engine for the three small 10mm screws used to bolt it to the main seal flange. Of course, the other bolt holes for the bellhousing and block are the same. Nothing on the oil pan aligns.

The "vent" area on the bottom of the OE dust cover is large and fans out toward the bottom which will rub the back of the flywheel. I suppose tin snips, tin stock, drill, pop-revits, etc., will be needed to customize the dust cover.

One thing I did was put clear RTV sealer around/between the bellhousing/dust cover/engine block/starter to keep out water...... remember, I like to use the pressure washer on my engines.

Well, I think my clutch disc (215mm) and flywheel are fine. My guess is that I used a light duty pressure plate.

Anyway, I have a 228mm flywheel/pressure plate/clutch disc on the way. I expect to have them here either tomorrow or on Monday.

I talked with my welder yesterday concerning the oil pan. He threw-out a three options: Use heavier aluminum, make a steel pan or make a stainless steel pan. His shop is set-up such that he can make either from scratch.

This past weekend, while in the Knoxville, TN area I dropped in at Northern Tool. They had an excellent price on a heavy duty aluminum motorcycle/ATV jack. It has a removable/adjustable two piece head. It will be perfect for customizing to remove the Vanagon tranny. And, I need it anyway since we have 5 ATVs, including the Polaris Diesel.
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
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Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
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AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
[QUOTE
[/QUOTE]


Does he have a pic of it mounted (hanging) in a Vanagon? Based on my hands-on experience, I believe that the bottom part of the pan will be hanging down below the cross-over brace that goes between the two carrier bars. Otherwise, that looks like a very good idea. In fact, I'll be showing my welder this pic. My guess, he could cut a stock oil pan square with the block mounting side, weld on a flange, then make a metal bottom pan as in the pic. The 50 degree angle is important for function and looks;)

With the oil fill/dipstick at the Vanagon license plate, there will be a need to weld a mounting bung on the end of the metal part of the oil pan.

Looks great and thanks Mark and Jimmy for the links and info!

EDIT: Another thing I see with the metal part of the pan is the angle on the Oil Filter side of the block. The angle on that side may interfere with bolting the pan on with the AC compressor bolted up or may not fit at all. My pan has the same angle as the face of the block.

Lastly, it looks as if the metal pan has been custom fabricated to accomodate the bottom sweep of the oil pump sprocket. The center of the sprocket is slightly down from the block on the aluminum part of the pan, as can be seen in the pic below. (roughly hanging on a 50 degree angle as in a Vanagon) Also, you can see how the affect of the angle of the custom oil pan can be an issue with the AC Compressor.....very close!

 
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markward

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Joined
Jul 5, 2007
Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
TDI
82 Vanagon and 2011 JSW
Andy, I flipped the picture to see it more clearly. I think as long as you fabricated the steel pan bottom with the AC compressor installed, it would work out. The pan comes with the steel bottom, so you'd simply cut off what you don't need to clear the pump gear. When finished a little body filler and some gloss black paint and it could look factory unlike my Aluminum one. mark

 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Oil pan

Fabricating an oil pan for the TDI Vanagon set-up is not an easy task. Due to the angle of the engine (side to side AND front to back), the least mistake and the end result is an oil pan with the bottom not hanging parallel to the ground.

So, here are a few pics from my collection of the mod for my Vanagon. As discussed previously, it has cracking issues big-time.

Below, is the marked-up OE TDI oil pan (thanks to Growler). The 50 degree angle is in reference to the block mating surface vs the bottom of the pan......hence, the two arrows. Also, VERY important, is the front to rear angle. The OE 1.6 Diesel Engine "hung" on a 4 degree slope to the rear. I changed that angle somewhat by drilling three new holes in the front tranny mount to raise it. Thus, my angle is obviously more than 4 degrees to the rear. (hope that makes sense). Note: This was all discussed near the beginning of this Thread (changing the front mount holes)


Below, after the OE TDI oil pan was cut ... Note, although the bottom cut doesn't look parallel, it is. The engine is hanging on a hoist and is not exactly on 50 degrees.


Looking from the other side


Below, t his pic shows end clearance of the Oil Pump Sprocket


Below, is the finished product (looking at the Bellhousing end in the foreground).............unfortunely, cracking has been a major issue.


Below, study the various angles on this shot.


Below, notice the bottom of the pic...you are looking straight down the right side of the oil pan..... That's the oil drain bung there to the right bottom corner... The Bellhousing end of the engine is to the right.


Below, see the oil drain bung there to the far right end/corner of the pan? Notice how close the pan is to the AC Compressor. That angle is very important.


Below, notice how the rear end of the oil pan tapers up. Well, that was sort of my fault because I cut the OE pan off too much. Luckily, the Oil Pump sprocket misses it by about 1/4 inch.


Below, those familiar with a Vanagon can relate to this pic. This is the oil fill tube that extends up to the license plate hole. I also modified the cap of the tube to accomodate a modified dip-stick for checking the oil level.


Well, considering I have a very generous offer to build me a custom made replacement pan, I felt these pics will be helpful in reflecting the possibilities of error. I hope this collection of pics will be helpful to those considering doing a similar project.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
The oil pan has always been a major stumbling block to using the EA113 engine in the factory 50 degree mounting. I think if someone could make a good oil pan for this application they'd be able to sell a few. Be nice to have one more akin to the original, one big finned casting.
 

markward

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2007
Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
TDI
82 Vanagon and 2011 JSW
I talked with a representative from a "casting" company at the PRI show last December about it. Obviously the expense is the first one. I don't think he exactly understood what I was asking about, he kept saying they would need a "buck" made from something to get the dimension into the computer. I kept asking why they could not use the pan as a buck. I have seen some pretty elaborate software where you could makes thousands of measurements with a probe and input the dimensions into the computer.

I asked if all of this could be solved and I could sell a pan for $200 what would it take to get my investment back and he said about 10 pans. I still think I can do something with the two peice pan above. I just am busy right now with lots of other projects. Plus, the estimate of 10 pans at $200 seemed low to me. If someone else wants to do this, I will commit to two for $200 each. David Marshall at one time was testing the waters on a similar project and I made the same offer back then of buying two pans. I don't believe anything came of it back then. My pan is the lamest part of my conversion. No problems with cracks though. Just a porous weld in one spot.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Oil pans

I agree with both Oilhammer and rsxsr's comments. I have about $300.00 in this pan and another one ........ And, still don't have anything worth bragging about...:eek:

I made a jig for the pan to sit in so that the welder would be able to keep the angles correct. That part turned out okay. I really have no complaints about that.

Also, other than my first test (Acetone), it does not have any leaks in the weld seams. The leaks are confined to very small cracks in the "new" metal adjacent to the welds. In fact, the metal cracked beside the welds that hold the two baffles on the inside bottom of the pan. Maybe we should have gone with a much thicker metal. The first pan I had made was probably too thick (5/16 inch or more). However, it had angle problems as well as no allowance for the Oil Pump Sprocket.

Well, even though I have an offer to fab me a new pan from metal (steel), I just might be willing to go with a cast model too!

I'm also seriously considering just shaving off the bottom corner of an OE pan and have my welder put a new bottom on...... that would be on a temporary basis.

Below is a pic of what I'm talking about. (hanging at about 50 degrees)




Below is a pic of a 1.6 VW Diesel Oil Pan "stuck" on the TDI engine for illistrative purposes.


Below is a comparison outline of the TDI oil pan vs the 1.6 oil pan (I think this pic was posted many months ago). The darker out-line is the ALH oil pan. Also, you can see from my legend which bolt holes actually line-up (don't ask how I got my hand inside an upside down ALH oil pan to make the inside out-line:D)
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
You know Andy, I was thinking... what harm would it do to leave the stock ALH pan in place, and just modify the pickup tube to orient to what is now the 'bottom' of the pan, and then do a remote oil tank/filter (think Porsche 911) if you wanted to increase the capacity?

I guess the only challenge there is, how to you insure the pickup has good oil available at all times? But really, the narrow edge of the pan (which would now become the bottom) would guarantee the oil coming off of the engine's spinning bits would channel down into that point. Drain plug location would still work fine, too.

So, just thinking out loud here... has anyone ever tried running an ALH at a 50 degree angle and see if any oil pressure issues arise? I kinda doubt they would. Seems like they'd starve for oil any time you accelerated up a steep incline then, given the transverse cars are already laid back at 15 degrees.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Brian, until I get past this ordeal, I'm going to go with the stock pan as you have suggested. The pick-up tube has already been customed for the 50 degree angle of the engine.

As you may recall, I had to dump in almost 7 quarts of oil with the custom pan...also, as you may recall, before starting the engine I could not get the oil pump to pull in oil with five quarts in the pan. So, rather than dump in more oil I pulled the pan off and found that the "oil level" wasn't high enough to equal the level of the gears inside the pump. At that point, I primed the pump, re-installed the pan and dumped in over 6 quarts of oil. Cranking the engine over numerous times finally put oil into the filter housing. While dealing with the "leaky" oil pan, even though the level has got down to five quarts a few times (per marked on the custom dip stick), I have never seen oil pressure fluctuate. So, priming the oil pump was probably the key to that situation.

Hopefully, my new flywheel will get here today. I'll jump into it all and get it out and on the road in a couple of days to see how it functions! .......new TB too!
 
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