believe I blew turbo exhaust side oil seal

SoCalC

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Joined
Oct 24, 2004
I've been getting bad mileage on my trip per the thread below, some of it due to less than ideal injection timing is my belief. I was accelerating hard in 1st or 2nd gear, heard a mild pop then oil smoke at the tailpipe and way down on power. I ran it a minute or two because I was in a bad spot. It idled fine motor realtively smooth, then motor quit. I got it to spin a little, stumbled a little. My guess is combustion chambers may be coated...possibly blew both sides? It will crank and stumble a bit and quit. I am 90% sure I didn't do damage by running low on oil, no knocks etc...didnt seem to run long enough to accomplish that.

is it true the ecm knows when low oil pressure shows up and shuts it down? Low oil sensor come into play after its sat, or does the low oil pressure switch determine in the first second or so if it will let it run?


http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=442839
 

smopoim86

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03 Jetta Wagon, 11 Sportwagen
On an 02, the oil pressure sensor is only an idiot light and is not active below 2000rpm. This lack of oil pressure warning is why I have an aftermarket gauge setup and a warning light that works any time the ignition is on.

It's possible it ingested enough oil to bend rods and lower your compression.
 

SoCalC

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Joined
Oct 24, 2004
it showed no signs of running away and ran smoothly but with little power. I I added fuel it sent more light colored smoke out the tailpipe. It was idling fine then just stumbled and quit, why I doubt I hurt internals. What else would cause it to quit if not low oil pressure, and no knocking banging etc, no oil umderneathe no smoke or anything abvious underhood. Smelled in oil filler cap...which I've done before...smells normal. Seems like most if not all the oil went straight out the exhaust. How often will a failure like this send oil to both exhaust and intake air sides?

if the motor itself is not hurt and I replace the turbo, how much roughly for a vn17 vs stock turbo since I have a decision to make now.
 
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Blackjedi

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I don't believe vnt17 are much more expensive, maybe $100 more? Then you have to have the Ecu tuned for it I think? Weird that it stumbled and died... Have you ruled out the injection pump? I saw your other thread. Positive that it was oil smoke? I have heard of ip over fueling when they poop themselves. Have you checked out the turbo?

Edit: just looked on idparts $40 more for a vnt17
 
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temporaptor

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00 Jetta TDI 11 335D M-Sport
Could have injested soo much oil that it hydro locked. You won't know for sure till you pull it apart. Let us know what you find. When my turbo went I put in a gtb1756vk from RyanP. Not much more then any of the turbo options, just depends how far you want to go.
 

SoCalC

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Oct 24, 2004
pretty sure it was lube oil smoke...no oil on dipstick after 2 days of sitting. I just got half a tank of fuel at no name type station, seemed to have good volume, but I was wondering about water. I think I have been straining the turbo...just got done climbing a hill for miles..not real fast, but shut it down hot, restarted 5 minutes later, ran light load for a minute, then got on it hard to cross and accel onto a bust highway. Early-mid first or second gear it popped then smoke...more smoke with more loud pedal, but always smoke...people behind me were getting fogged out...slowimg down, changing lanes...

I was thinking about putting some conventional 15-40 in it a quart at a time and try to start but I think I will wait till I at least attempt to talk with gurus listed for Colorado Springs.
 

SoCalC

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Oct 24, 2004
update

I looked at the oil filter, no metal noticed without destroying it. Pulled rubber tube to intake, the hose and inlet side of the intake are oily and a little sooty/gritty. I don't find these things unusual. First start attempt it stumbled didn't start. Next attempt it started easily and settled into what felt like a normal cold idle, slightly rough, bit felt completely normal. No oil pressure light or funny knocks. I shut it off after 2-3 seconds and put 2 quarts of oil to get it on dipstick. Started again ran fine, tried to rev, it either would or went to 1200 and stayed no matter what I did with the pedal. So it was reacting strangely/varying ways to pedal but was smooth, no funny noises, no cel. I shut it down after 30-40 seconds. ...did smoke from tailpipe as expected. Not sure why it took 2 days of sitting to get to the point where it would crank long enough to start and not just run poorly. So here's the plan...any or all of these things, go to one of two gurus in town, spoke with both shops on phone this am...compression check, pull oil pan to look for metal and pull a bearing cap or two to look for damage. Though I never saw an oil pressure light, I think it **** down for other reasons just before it ran out of oil, anyone familair know what tends to suffer first with lack of oil pressure, crank, rod, cam bearings, lifter/lobe surfaces? I smelled the normal oil/combustion 'fog' coming from the dip tube and oil filler cap, both seemed normal but possibly slightly metalic...could be from turbo carnage...did not notice turbo noise...or ?? Again no strange noises while running.

depending on results from explaoratory stuff, if motor seems fine I have to make a decision on whether to out a stock turbo on it or upgrade to vn17 or other turbo I've seen mentioned in this thread and previously. If I end up having to redo this motor, I can make the decision later but would like to aim for about 200 hp at the crank and road race this car, with durable upgrades to rods etc...

I don't think those turbos support that kind of power? I'd like to error on too much air rather than fuel to keep egts ..hence turbo etc safe, but if I don't have to build it might make sense to upgrade somewhat now and not have to do it again. Conservative side of me (majority) says just out new stock turbo on there and be done, but other side says it would he 'efficient' to upgrade now even though I'm out of state. It is getting a timing belt too if motor not toast.

Also, any input on the two shops from the Colorado people would be helpful, I will be getting started shortly today. European Perfoemance Specialists and German Motorsports ate the two shops in Colorado Springs. Please email me at cbizzme@gmail.com with any input, we might talk on phone as well.

thanks!

Chris
 

maxmoo

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2000 golf, 2001 golf, 2000 beetle, 2003 wagon, 2004 golf, 2004 jetta, all diesels
I've heard it said that after the turbo the front (closest to the pulley) cam bearing is next to be damaged from no oil pressure, rod and mains are relativly forgiving, short term.
If it was mine I would pull the valve cover and look at that front cam journal first.
If it looks ok I would throw another turbo on it, drain and clean the intercoler and hoses, top up oil and see how it runs.
Also I've heard the injectors and nozzles can be damaged from an oil hydrolock situation.
Doing a compression test may indicate if any rods are bent.
 

SoCalC

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Oct 24, 2004
update #2

thanks for that. I interviewed two shops and decided to go with German Motorsports. Tough to make these decisions with no background info but we spoke technically and I liked both but decided to go with GM.

game plan is to look at and clean out intercooler, lines and tank the intake to clean it out. Pull the oil pan, look at the rea bearing iirc, one of the ends the first to be starved. Check oil pickup screen and pan itself. My pan has a single oversize plug in it and not well at that. We did not talk about pans, but is the pan with steel bottom and therefore threads for the dp a fctory revision or just aftermarket. It needs to be readily available here either way.

one thing that puzzled me a little GM, when I asked about changing the turbo oil feed line just said he would check to see if it was clear..free flowing, acted as though it was not a preventative maintenance item at any point. I don't know specifics of materials and design, but seemed odd for something with 240k on it, if you're already in there. Thoughts on that?

I decided to go with a vn17. He is ordering it from a place in California. He said it is new and that they don't use the Chinese rm or rp coded part...as they don't work. Both shops told me that. If we pull the valve cover it might make sense to do the cam seal whether leaking or not? Are cam bearing cap bolts 'throw away' same as for crank caps?

Timing belt too, its due. He says they use the 100k mile kit. Other shop said he uses standard hit with better bearings...called later larger stuff Chinese and recommended changing timing belt every 70k on this motor regardless. I will pretty much insist on witnessing the injection timing touching the top..advanced mark. First shop told me if the belt tensioner isn't set correctly the belt will be loose and timing may change. As far as I am concerned my timing went from halfway between middle and top, to bottom mark and dipping slightly below while idling. My turbo lasted quite a while at 240k, but convinced late timing contributed to demise of turbo when it did and under the circumstances it did.

we did not talk about cam change or upgrade. If things work out with this turbo I may just go with it and change other stuff including work on the bottom end to make it a durable ocassional track car. Any cam recommendations, make/model timing specs for a setup that seems like it will end up around 150-175 hp in the end..at least help it try to get there. Was thinking if cam was done springs should he set up for about 5k rpm redline? Not sure where the valves float with stock setup but redline is around 4.5k?
 
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patbob

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was a 2013 Jetta TDI
Timing belt too, its due.
I was wondering about that. Maybe the timing belt skipped a tooth. A new one should correct it is so, although it would be nice to know if it was off by a tooth as that could be root cause.
 

AndyBees

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Southeast Kentucky
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Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
I bet your engine is severally damaged. It's quite obvious you killed the turbo. Unless I missed it, you never said anything about inspecting the TB before attempting to re-start the engine. You started the engine knowing it had no oil on the dipstick ..... then shut-down and added oil .... Your initial post says you were 90% sure it did not run low on oil but post #10 says you had to add two quarts.

My guess is that the turbo shaft broke at worst. Or, the bearing and shaft was worn to the point that the blades of the Turbine and Impeller began to scrape the housings all the while stressing the two seals (steel metal expansion rings, not rubber).

The oil feed tube has a huge internal diameter. I've never known of one to clog. I've heard of them breaking, leaking (weeping) at the turbo, etc., but, my guess the issue has nothing to do with the oil feed pipe to the Turbo.....zero!

Have the mechanic to remove the valve cover and then remove the Cam Cap on the end of the head next to the Cam Sprocket. If that Cam Cap (no bearing there) shows damage, ........... well, it's highly possible there is more damage... just depends on the damage you find at the Cam Cap.

Depending on if a slug of oil went through the engine (you were getting on it in 1st or 2nd gear), there may be bent rods.

Buy a 100k mile TB kit from one of the vendors that supports this club... idparts, metalman parts, etc. If you use quality parts, there is no need to change the TB before 100k miles.........

Timing belt never skipped a tooth ......... betcha...

But, if you're building a race engine, I guess you've got it covered!

EDIT: I cannot fathom why late Injection Pump timing, especially if it was inside the graph or slightly below, would cause such a catastrophic failure of the engine, definitely not the Turbo. 240k miles of hard driving was the demise of the Turbo.
 
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maxmoo

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I suspect that many turbos fail from "bad oil".......either not full synthetic and/or too long of a change interval.
 

SoCalC

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2004
update 3

pan came off, Kirk described there as being very little evidence of metal on the pickup screen. Bearing cap removal showed a bearing in good shape. The intake tract is to be checked. Timing belt, water pump to go on after we spoke. Overnighted vnt-17 from CA will not make it till tomorrow...last thing to go on. Valve cover pull to look at cam bearing was mentioned by me. I may insist on it tomorrow before turbo goes on.

When I decided to start the engine after sitting for two days without adding oil, it was a conscious decision to change as few variables as possible. For whatever reason(s) it started much easier than within the hour after the incident, during which ot didn't start at all. I let it run for a couple seconds. I then made a decision to add oil in increments to accomplish two things. First was to determine how much oil was left in engine after event. I determined that to be about one quart. The second, was to make sure I had enough oil present to cover the pickup, so I could run the engine longer than 2-3 seconds if I wanted to. I started it and it ran exactly as it had after cold starts in similar temps at home at sea level to 800 ft. Here I am a mile high. No oil pressure light in the 30-60 seconds I ran it, no funny noises, still had oil smoke coming from tailpipe, still had variable reaction of engine to same fuel pedal inputs as during the incident, but no sign of fundamental engine damage. I did not notice any turbo whine with increases from low idle as present under normal conditions. I am very curious about condition of turbo, but again no sign of engine I jesting lube oil, junk from this incident. It wanted to run at smooth idle or not much higher. I ran it up by downshifting once as I was pulling over, probably not best decision in himd sight, but it revved and sounded completely smooth and normal.

The engine is modified though much less so than many vehicles owned by those on this site. It has put out more than stock on several occasions over the years, why wouldn't it? Not sure about the def of hard driving you are evaluating me by and how you would do so all things considered.

when an internal combustion engine runs with less than ideal ignition timing for best power and or fuel efficiency, for any given speed and load, more waste heat is being introduced to the back side of exhaust valves, and stems as well as exhaust manifolds and turbochargers particularly the turbine section. It would appear my turbo failure initiated and may have stayed physically isolated to the turbine side. I am guessing this is the norm, but don't have the data. Not many people do, don't believe this data is published anywhere readily available. The turbine side is stressed the most thermally I think most would agree. I was heating it more than I needed to for all the work I was asking the engine to do, if timing was retarded from ideal which I believe I was based on evidence I have observed and discussions with people who should know. In this case I think I stressed the turbo thermally by shutting it down after a light to moderate hill climb and shut down at high altitude...about 7-7.5k ft on a warm afternoon, after being exposed to more heat than necessary due to timing, over many miles leading up to AND in the minutes leading up to that shutdown, restart and heavy accel. I'd drove it from LA through the Rockies the day before...100-110* heat from CA desert until an hour or two north of Vegas when I got to higher altitudes in Utah. I had the AC on most of the time, dragging those darned 225-17s all the while. I was cruising 70-75 true and can assure you I was getting passed by 80-90% of cars.


that's where we stand for update 3.
 

SoCalC

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Joined
Oct 24, 2004
update

Guys, gals, asking for help now. Good news is the motor looks fine. The turbo shaft did break, that's, the pop, like a mild backfire I heard. There was oil in the intercooler tract etc. Though not much metal seen anywhere. The blades on both wheels looked basically intact to me, not shredded. I just looked at the cam, all lobes lifters etc look prisitne. Did not pull the pulley end cap and may not. Frankly I don't think oil pressure dipped much when the oil started to enter the wrong part of the
e turbo.

Here's the problem, they ordered a Chinese turbo called a Stighan from a place called turbochargerpros.com. Long story I'll tell later, short, I put the kabash on that and bought a vnt-17 by Garret from IDParts. Its gonna arrive overnight with the new required boost tube.

here is what I want confirmation on. VW dealer here says the crankshaft main cap bolts, part # N90130001 are $3.16 a bolt of which there are 10 for each motor, but none in Co. There was no torque to yield message or torque spec info. I was told the rear cap and one other were removed looking for damage. Bearings looked fine, but I got a blank stare from the tech when I asked if the bolts had been replaced. I need someone to confirm the part number and notes/specs for this bolts. As things look right now I might be rolling with 4 of 10 re-used unless I can get either 4 or possibly all 10 by tomorrow mid-day.
I am happy about the motor apparently having survived, but not a happy camper as of about 1300 today. Thanks for any info you can provide.

Chris
 
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SoCalC

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Joined
Oct 24, 2004
update infinity -1

so I go to the local VW dealer and finally get a part number for crank main cap bolts....and am then told there are none in Colorado. With who knows how few minutes to spare, Idparts tells me my turbo was already shipped, but there is time to make a Sep overnight shipment of main cap bolts. I am having 10 sent and doing them all instead of just 4. Bolts are $31.50 ..cheaper than expected, same price as dealer I went to btw..but I am springing another $45.54 for overnight shipping to keep from having to at least attempt to reuse 4 of 10 main cap bolts....quite happy with IDParts, but shaking my head and clenching my teeth....at this point I will not breath completely easy until the car makes it home...saga continues...
 

SoCalC

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Joined
Oct 24, 2004
Poll....

poll, for motor builders, engineers, those who just feel like taking a crack at it... In this situation where 4 need to be replaced so they are not re-used, would you replace just the 4 or do all 10 as a form of pm if they are on hand anyway. I may build the bottom end of this motor later, but also good chance I never touch it again...240k on it. Probably making 130-40 hp since near new. Vnt-15 just broke the shaft, putting vnt-17 on it now, no fuel,tune,nozzle upgrades right now, probably let it make more boost once I evaluate how it drives with new turbo.
 

SoCalC

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Joined
Oct 24, 2004
infinity -.5

I'm going to just call him 'the guy'. I ordered and shipped crank main bearing cap bolts only to have the guy call back and state he pulled a rod bearing cap and re-used the bolt, torqued to 22 lb ft. Can anyone confirm that spec and re-usability of rod cap bolts? I probably said crank main cap bolt 3-4 times, never used the term rod ever. Sounds good to me, I am guessing checking the rearmost rod bearing in the engine is fine, its just not what he said he was going to do. So, his lack of ability to effectively communicate his intentions to me is now costing me further money. In the Bently manual or whatever, is there a spec by chance for any reciprocating assembly bolt replacement as a part of preventative maintenance, or do they all stay in if the motor goes, say 600k?

I am probably going to replace the oil pan with a better one with steel insert or more capacity for hipo...dont even know if that exists...and a panzer plate. When the pan is pulled then I will change the bolts since I have them anyway. Hopefully that is a good deed for my mildly hipo motor and goes unpunished.
 
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turbocharged798

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Ellenville, NY
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99.5 black ALH Jetta;09 Gasser Jetta
All rods and main bolts are tty and one time use. Once they get used, they go straight in the trash. No reason to replace if they weren't loosened. Consequences of these bolts failing is huge.

They should have a +90* turn on them.
 

AndyBees

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Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
My guess is that the turbo shaft broke at worst. ...


Good news is the motor looks fine. The turbo shaft did break, that's, the pop, like a mild backfire I heard.

Chris
So, sounds as if the engine did survive the short span of oil starvation... that's good!

EDIT: For what it's worth, I do know of a 2000 Passat 1.8T gasser that has two rod bolts that were re-used .... owner's choice! That was over three years ago, and I suppose at least 30 to 40k miles. I would not do it!
 
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SoCalC

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Joined
Oct 24, 2004
I don't know how much oil pressure drops when the turbo grenades like that. It must drop some, apparently there was a lot of oil in the intercooler. I still don't know for sure what made the motor quit or not try to run away if oil in fact was introduced to the compressor side.

I realize the results of rod bolt failure are big. What's puzzling me is why a supposed tdiclub listed guru doesn't know this fact. It has me questioning several things.

I have another question I am not sure about, though I should be. With what's happened in the last day or so, I am questioning lots of things... IDParts says the vnt-17 only needs a new boost hose which uses a hose clamp instead of that lame clamp used on a factory vnt-15. Confirm the vn-17 accepts the factory vnt-15 down pipe?

the motor should run fine, just with different boost curve characteristics? Given amount of rpm, pedal position and boost will still fuel the same as before? Peak boost will be limited by ecm tune? I don't know what current tune is calling for as I don't have a boost gage. If an ecm somehow receives more manifold pressure than its expecting, what does it do, hold fueling level, increase or decrease fueling by some formula, go to limp mode?
 

smopoim86

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Mar 2, 2014
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Knoxville, TN
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03 Jetta Wagon, 11 Sportwagen
One thing to keep in mind. The oil pressure warning light does not function below 2000 rpm. You could drive with no oil till it locks up if you didn't break 2k rpm and the light wouldn't come on.

It sounds like you got lucky as far as damage is concerned. The vnt17 uses one of the snap in fittings on the compressor outlet. The stock vnt15 just uses a hose clamp. I'd say idparts sent you the correct adapter or hose.
 

owr084

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Oct 20, 2004
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Northern Virginia (NoVA)
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Passat GLS, 2005, Stonehenge Gray
Strange how VW uses so many TTY one time use bolts in a number of assemblies, but never has them in stock for common jobs. Makes you wonder what their shop mechanics do...:confused:

so I go to the local VW dealer and finally get a part number for crank main cap bolts....and am then told there are none in Colorado.
 

SoCalC

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2004
Strange how VW uses so many TTY one time use bolts in a number of assemblies, but never has them in stock for common jobs. Makes you wonder what their shop mechanics do...:confused:

yes it does, after doing some reading, I am not as concerned, but don't like the fact that I am not certain what bolts they removed at this point. I assume they know how to retorque fasteners. They will not be as strong as first use. Assuming the motor makes it home I am considering having various fasteners changed, specifcally tue crank and rod cap bolts, possibly change out with arp non tty if available? I already have a complete set of 10 crank cap bolts coming from id this morning. The other would be head studs. Since I am increasing potential output, I might take the opportunity to change some fasteners out, also due to age/mileage/cycles on motor. I will probably change the oil pan to one with steel insert anyway. Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket pan with higher capacity and possibly other design changes from factory design?

I am guessing the cam used in the euro cars with vnt-17 is at least a little different. Whether yes or no I may change cam anyway even though it and lifters look perfect from what I could see. That would be a good time to do head fasteners, possibly valve springs and headgasket too....

what you are saying about function of the low oil pressure light bothers me. I am guessing they have good reason, but it better be really good. I am sure I had it above 2k for at least part of the period the motor ran after the turbo broke. I do not recall seeing a light. I determined later the motor had about a quart of oil left in it afterwards, not much but probably barely enough to keep the pickup covered.
 
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That Guy

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Jan 23, 2009
Location
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
TDI
2001 MKiv Golf TDI
I had a similar experience in I think 2007 with my 2001 TDI.

It also ran for a short while after the turbo blew. No pop, just lots of smoke.

Was only a little bit of oil at the end of the dip stick. Found most of it in the exhaust and Intercooler.
Exhaust side impeller was chewed up a bit.

No damage to the engine.

Took the opportunity to upgrade a bunch of stuff. Turbo, exhaust system, tuning, etc.etc. (Never did tell my wife how much I spent.)

8 years later and still getting excellent mileage and power outta her. These cars are tough.

Its good to hear that your car is still alive and kicking too. :)
 

SoCalC

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Joined
Oct 24, 2004
I've driven the car about 15 miles since vnt-17 was installed. Shop is telling me a high pitch squeal not loud bit def noticable is a bad turbo, ordered overnight from IDPARTS. Idparts is telling me it is likely a boost/exhaust leak somewhere.

Facts:

looks like about half oil pumped through oil went to exhaust and about half into interxoller etc. There was oil coming out of factory exhaust joint with clamp about 2 feet behind the cat. I don't notice any extra exhaust sound but am hearing a squeal. I can't tell where the squeal is coming from.

squeal was worse with engine cold right after install. Turbo was prelubed, ran with oil feed, return hooked up, new lines, with no boost while new timing belt, injection timing was done. I was told timing was set to slightly above blue (middle timing mark). I asked for it to be set to top mark..more advanced.

I was told Lubrimoly oil was used per TSB for this engine. I said I had no problem. Oil level was about 1 quart above full mark/top of crosshatch. The explanation didn't make much sense to me. Should this be a problem via aeration of the oil etc?

residual oil left in exhaust and white smoke seems to be rapidly burning off...less of an issue within 15 miles. I see no drop of engine oil level in 15 miles. I have looked at dipstick several times with engine running and not running...no bubbles noted, consistent level.

There is a brand new vnt-15 from the nearby VW dealer. It can be changed out in the morning for labor...my agreement with tech plus about $1200 if I turn in my old turbo for about a $200-250 core charge. I am told we can pull the exhaust and intake side and wiggle, spin, inspect turbo wheels while installed in the car. Not sure i want to do this. Doubt any new noticsble play will be found...should have been inspected by them to start. Brand new vnt-15 seemed good to me. If we pill both down pipe and new id provided tube off compressor end and reinstall it might correct squeal if they are the source.

I am told all fasteners were double and triple checked.

vag com was used to observe boost called for and measured after first test drive where tech heard squeal. The lines matched very closely. I have driven the car, widely varying loads and speeds the first 2-3 miles. Drivability was very good and the turbo felt like i expected a bigger vnt turbo to feel with nothing else changed...no tune, nozzle, boost map etc etc changed.

i am about to drive the car 100-200 miles probably mostly on I-25 in this area to break turbo in or wait for it to fail and just generally observe everything.

i have 10 new crank main cap bolts, not sure if any caps were removed. I was told by owner the rear rod main cap was removed, bearing inspected, looked good, reinstalled at 22 lb ft with same rod bolts removed.

i have to decide whether to go with what i have now, after my 100-200 mile local break in if successful. Otherwise new vnt-15 goes on and i take almost new vnt-17 home with me to decide what to do next.
 

WayneJ

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Mar 28, 2015
Location
Woodstock Valley, CT
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI and 2003 Golf TDI
I recently did a timing belt, tensioner, rollers, water pump, t-stat, etc. on my daughter's car and now there's a squeal. I know it's not the turbo, and I suspect a small leak or a worn pulley on the serpentine belt tensioner, or one of the new rollers was not well lubed at the factory.

I plan to remove the serpentine belt to see if the noise disappears. The turbo was healthy prior to doing the TB and it's making good boost now, so I'm comfortable the squeal is from another source.

I think idParts is correct in their advice to you.
 

smopoim86

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Mar 2, 2014
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Knoxville, TN
TDI
03 Jetta Wagon, 11 Sportwagen
What action changes the tone of the squeal? Does it change with engine rpm or boost pressure? I had a funky squeal after having my turbo off once and it was a lose egr tube joint. The gasket was acting like a wreed.
 

SoCalC

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2004
What action changes the tone of the squeal? Does it change with engine rpm or boost pressure? I had a funky squeal after having my turbo off once and it was a lose egr tube joint. The gasket was acting like a wreed.
That is one of the sources idparts mentioned. I am going to cold start the thing within the hour. Boost pressure, not engine or even turbo rpm, though as I've said, with the test drive I took the noise gradually went away. This was mentioned to the tech. I had to leave the shop for about 30 minutes. They test drove, boost lines on vag come looked good. Boost felt good to me at end of test, though I am mindfully not revving or boosting the motor much now. When revving the motor in neutral..slowly bringing rpm up, I notice I can't hear the slight turbine whine I did with the old turbo as it accelerated from engine idle rpm. That could he the larger turbo and possibly 5-6k ft altitude contributing. I will try again.

I emailed aNut late last night about possibly stopping by today...probably not the best day to attempt this, but who knows....

Thanks
 
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