ProStreetDriver
Veteran Member
Will a turbo actuator from an ALH engine fit my BEW engine???
OK. Here is what I came up with:
It started out as: http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2054.
I removed the mounting bracket and heat shield assembly from the old actuator drilled two new mounting holes in it to accommodate the mounting studs on the new unit.
Cut off 60mm of the threaded rod end from the old actuator and made up a coupling which I used to adapt the threaded rod with and ultimately extend the new actuator shaft.
Add a couple nuts and ribbed lock washers for good measure and it's a direct bolt on.
The vacuum line fits but the port is in a different location so I cut the line just after the first bend and it fit perfectly.
The electrical connector is plug&play.
The result is that I am back on the road. I logged a boost pressure vs requested (VCDS measuring block 011) and I'm making good pressure but it's coming in late. I tried setting it with the Mityvac while the car was up on the stands and thought I had it but it seems I have some adjusting to do at the rod end that connects to the turbo.
If I come up with anything good on this I'll pass it along and if anyone else has experience or advice to offer, I'm all ears.
This could easily be a kit if there were interest as the alternative is financially prohibitive.
Thanks (for nothing) Borg Warner!
There are three pins on the actuator and three corresponding sockets in the connector whip.How many electrical connections are in the plug? 2, maybe 3?
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I am going to do this tonight after work. I didn't believe that simply flipping the sensor over would work but after reviewing the technical documentation in the link you posted, I see how this would be possible. I may try to pull the sensor from the board and flip it so I don't have to change the wiring on the harness.You can turn the circuit board upside down and switch wires 1&3 in the connector and make this work.
Jeff
I am no parts verification expert so I only relied on the description here:Turns out that the Garret actuator mecanical/pneumatic action is correct but the potentiometer output is an exact inverse to the unit that comes stock on the KP-39 (I can't figure out how this might possibly work if you just throw it on another turbo (and no. I'm not talking about the BRM turbo with the reverse action)).
My boost graph looks like Mt. Everest... Without tune I'm can't seem to get just a little boost and seems to be a kind of too much or nothing at all proposition the way things are set-up now.If it will vary linearly from 12 to ~100%, that should probably work fine.
I know of one guy with a stock BRM actuator that ranges from 20% up...