How to bleed ABS pump through Vag.com?

My brakes were working fine before I did the 288mm brake upgrade,,After finishing the job, I bled off all 4 wheels like 15 times, and my brake pedal when pressed goes all the way to the fllor, now I finding out that my ABS pump had probably gone dry on fluid, and I need to bleed it off, I tried following the ross tech how to, and I am not getting anywhere, as far as I can read from it, it looks to me that is not detailed correctly, can anyone tell me how to bleed off my ABS pump properly through Vag.com, thanks ahead.

No one knows, I am in trouble, car stranded.

First go through and do the <output test> in the ABS controller. Just do exactly what it says. That should help to get you started.

Then go to <measuring blocks> Group 000 and do what it says there.

There are a couple different versions for the bleed procedure, depending on what ABS system it uses, but this should get you started.

oilhammer said:

First go through and do the <output test> in the ABS controller. Just do exactly what it says. That should help to get you started.

Then go to <measuring blocks> Group 000 and do what it says there.

There are a couple different versions for the bleed procedure, depending on what ABS system it uses, but this should get you started.

Click to expand...

I went to block #3 ABS, then I went to group 001, depress the pedal and I hear a noise which I think is the Pump getting triggered, what I do not understand is do I have to change to group 002 then 003 all the way to group 0017 and do what is telling me to do? if I were to do all the way to group 0017 I would probably need like a gallon of brake fluid. thanks for your help

I did the ABS pump bleed procedure after doing my ASR/ESP upgrade. I don't recall the exact messages that come up on the screen, but I can give you the general idea.

In VAG-COM:
[Select]
[03 - ABS Brakes]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 001
[Go!]

Once you hit GO! the screen says to depress pedal and hold
You have to press the pedal HARD. Seriously, pound the pedal like you're about to drive over a cliff. Remember to hold the pedal down!

The pedal will drop, the pump runs briefly, then the pedal comes back up.

Take your foot off the pedal.

I think it wants you to click on OK at this point.

The screen says something like FR/FL bleed screw OPEN.

Open both front bleed screws. Obviously, on each bleed screw you'll have some tubing going from the bleeder into a catch jar.

Click on OK (or DONE or something like that).

Pump runs for 10 seconds, pushing fluid out of the bleeders into your catch jars.

Screen says something like: Depr. pedal 10X; bleed screw CLOSED

Depress pedal firmly 10 times, then close both bleed screws.

Click OK.

You'll get sent back to the depress pedal and hold screen and repeat the cycle. It goes on for like 10 or 15 cycles. I never got a finished message, I just did it until the screen said N/A.

It is easier with two people. One in the car pressing the pedal and working Vag-Com, the other outside opening and closing bleeders and making sure the master cylinder doesn't run dry (very important!).
If you're doing this solo, put the laptop on the driver's side roof so you can access it easier. It's also a great workout as you run in and out and around the car.
After the ABS pump is bled, you can then bleed the rest of the system as normal.

I have heard of problems when people have bled the brakes and not put a block under the brake pedal to stop it from going all the way to the floor. Something about screwing up the master cylinder because the stroke was going past where it normally goes. You might try a search on the subject.

RacerTodd said:

I did the ABS pump bleed procedure after doing my ASR/ESP upgrade. I don't recall the exact messages that come up on the screen, but I can give you the general idea.

In VAG-COM:
[Select]
[03 - ABS Brakes]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 001
[Go!]

Once you hit GO! the screen says to depress pedal and hold
You have to press the pedal HARD. Seriously, pound the pedal like you're about to drive over a cliff. Remember to hold the pedal down!

The pedal will drop, the pump runs briefly, then the pedal comes back up.

Take your foot off the pedal.

I think it wants you to click on OK at this point.

The screen says something like FR/FL bleed screw OPEN.

Open both front bleed screws. Obviously, on each bleed screw you'll have some tubing going from the bleeder into a catch jar.

Click on OK (or DONE or something like that).

Pump runs for 10 seconds, pushing fluid out of the bleeders into your catch jars.

Screen says something like: Depr. pedal 10X; bleed screw CLOSED

Depress pedal firmly 10 times, then close both bleed screws.

Click OK.

You'll get sent back to the depress pedal and hold screen and repeat the cycle. It goes on for like 10 or 15 cycles. I never got a finished message, I just did it until the screen said N/A.

It is easier with two people. One in the car pressing the pedal and working Vag-Com, the other outside opening and closing bleeders and making sure the master cylinder doesn't run dry (very important!).
If you're doing this solo, put the laptop on the driver's side roof so you can access it easier. It's also a great workout as you run in and out and around the car.
After the ABS pump is bled, you can then bleed the rest of the system as normal.

Click to expand...

Racer thanks, I followed it to the T from Vag.com,with the ABS pump bleeding, and I still have no pressure from the brake, I just courious, the vag.com only said to do the 2 front wheels, what about the rears, but anyway I went ahead and bled them off as well, The only think left that I need to do now is to install my old calipers to see if there is a problem with the calipers that are on the car now, there are no leaks from them, so it would not hurt to change them.

Car did not have this problem before I did the brake upgrade so that is telling me that the master cylinder is not the culprit.

MAXRPM said:

Racer thanks, I followed it to the T from Vag.com,with the ABS pump bleeding, and I still have no pressure from the brake, I just courious, the vag.com only said to do the 2 front wheels, what about the rears, but anyway I went ahead and bled them off as well, The only think left that I need to do now is to install my old calipers to see if there is a problem with the calipers that are on the car now, there are no leaks from them, so it would not hurt to change them.

Car did not have this problem before I did the brake upgrade so that is telling me that the master cylinder is not the culprit.

Click to expand...

Yeah, the ABS bleeding procedure has you only opening the two front bleeders.
How are you bleeding the system? I've found that a pressure bleeder does a far better job of getting the air out of a system than the old manual method. Especially when calipers or the master cylinder have just been replaced and a lot of air is in the system.

RacerTodd said:

Yeah, the ABS bleeding procedure has you only opening the two front bleeders.
How are you bleeding the system? I've found that a pressure bleeder does a far better job of getting the air out of a system than the old manual method. Especially when calipers or the master cylinder have just been replaced and a lot of air is in the system.

Click to expand...

Racer I almost threw away my power bleeding tonight, not enough air pressure and brake fluid pushing through when unscrewing the bleeder screw on both rear calipers,, I had better luck with the old fashion way of bleeding, pumping the brake with the engine running, got to have 2 people though that is the problem


my problem was the RR caliper, I noticed that when I was bleeding off my car tonight, I got just a little fluid coming out of RR caliper, it turned out that there was some kind of blockage inside the caliper,that was not allowing the fluid and the air out, so I replaced it, and now I got brakes, not 100 % yet but I have some pressure in my pedal, I am happy,I ran out of brake fluid and got too late for me to finish.


I got to find more brake fluid tomorrow, I do not know if the auto store carries any after market fluid for my cars just for the time being while I wait for an order that I placed for brake fluid it should be here by next Tuesday, I just would like to bleed my car off so I can put it back on the road.

When I flushed the brake fluid on my mother's 2000 Jetta TDI, I had almost no flow from a rear caliper. The problem was the bleeder bolt was packed with dirt and trash, plugging it (the bleeder caps were missing). I simply removed the bleeder and cleaned it out with a small steel wire. Check for that.

--Nate

PDJetta said:

When I flushed the brake fluid on my mother's 2000 Jetta TDI, I had almost no flow from a rear caliper. The problem was the bleeder bolt was packed with dirt and trash, plugging it (the bleeder caps were missing). I simply removed the bleeder and cleaned it out with a small steel wire. Check for that.

--Nate

Click to expand...

I took the screw out from the rear caliper and even with a 17 psi pressure from the power bleeder, there was almost no flow, then I tried bleeding it off the old fashion way and it squirted a lot of fluid, so there is actually more pressure doing it with someone in the car pressing the pedal.


I came to the conclusion that the power bleeder is good to do brake fluid changes only.

careful with pressurizing the reservoir that much , there is a hose that goes to clutch MC , you might blow it

There is not a good detailed instruction like this, that I know of..

Good work guys..I understand the instructions better now..Thanks..

So if you are bleeding your brakes are you also changing the fluid for the clutch at the same time? They are connected right?

Ok, finally got around to doing this today. I followed everything I've read so far, installed the new mk60 pump. When I went to use vcds to activate the pump, it didn't have me do it multiple times like Ive read. I hit "go" and it ran the pump for a second or two, then it told me to open both front bleeders, then pump the brake 10 times, then close the bleeders. I hit next and it said "NA". After reading this post I figured that once it said "NA", I was done.

At any rate, the brakes had decent pressure, and I was running out of daylight, so I decided to go ahead and pressure bleed the rears, doing the LR first, followed by RR. Its actually the first time I've bled these brakes and using my motive power bleeder. I filled the master cylinder, pumped the power bleeder to 14.5 psi, and opened the LR bleeder nut. Fluid came out, but no bubbles. I kept an eye on the master cylinder to make sure that it remained full during the procedure. Again, 5 mins or so and no bubbles, so I closed it and moved to the RR. Followed the same procedure for it, and again, some dirty fluid, but no bubbles. It was dark at this point so i put the tires back on, and went for a drive. I actually wasn't sure if I still needed to pressure bleed the front two - since I ran the pump with vcds and during that procedure I saw some small bubbles, but from what I could tell, there weren't many.

Brake pedal feel isn't as hard as before, and ASR definitely isn't active. I found some loose gravel and was able to spin the tires. I hooked up VAG and it recognizes the mk60 pump with ASR so I know that it is not the unit, also, the ABS works.

I guess I'm going to go ahead and try to bleed all 4 again tomorrow with the power bleeder. Maybe I'll try to run the pump through vcds again? I'm not really sure where to start to troubleshoot the issue.

I posted this here in case you guys are able to help - it might also help any other noob's who are attempting this retrofit.

Thanks again guys!

Tyler

You know you also have to bleed the 2 nipples on the master cylinder?

F2 Ed said:

You know you also have to bleed the 2 nipples on the master cylinder?

Click to expand...

nope. didn't know! should i rebleed the entire system? or since i've done the rest of the system, can i just do them?

RacerTodd said:

[Select]
[03 - ABS Brakes]
[Basic Settings - 04]
Group 001
[Go!]

Once you hit GO! the screen says to depress pedal and hold
You have to press the pedal HARD. Seriously, pound the pedal like you're about to drive over a cliff. Remember to hold the pedal down!

The pedal will drop, the pump runs briefly, then the pedal comes back up.

Take your foot off the pedal.

I think it wants you to click on OK at this point.

The screen says something like FR/FL bleed screw OPEN.

Open both front bleed screws. Obviously, on each bleed screw you'll have some tubing going from the bleeder into a catch jar.

Click on OK (or DONE or something like that).

Pump runs for 10 seconds, pushing fluid out of the bleeders into your catch jars.

Screen says something like: Depr. pedal 10X; bleed screw CLOSED

Depress pedal firmly 10 times, then close both bleed screws.

Click OK.

You'll get sent back to the depress pedal and hold screen and repeat the cycle. It goes on for like 10 or 15 cycles. I never got a finished message, I just did it until the screen said N/A.

Click to expand...

Sorry to re-hash an older thread.

Is it really necessary to do this procedure till vcds says n/a?

I am changing the brake master cylinder today and I was wondering if I even have to do this procedure or simply bleed all 4 corners and the clutch?