Check engine light on but runs fine?

I found vac hose at EGR valve broke. Any ideas what else to check ? Where can I get a good reader for a fair price?

Do you mean the hose to the valve broke, or the connector nipple, (that's right I said nipple) is broken? Some have managed to re-attach if broken using JB Weld & the like, but otherwise you will need to replace the entire EGR assembly. Regarding readers, "THE" reader for these cars is VAG COM, hands down. Click here for more info.

Went to autozone to get Hose without hole (3/16 ID) They read the code for me. It was P0605. And said something about PCM rom error. I guess I should replace all vac lines now. Please advise
Thanks

How hard is it to change the EGR valve? I have 174000 miles on the first one. Is it press fitted on?
Thanks

It isn't difficult to remove & does not take long. Be careful removing the vacuum line from the EGR. You could carefully score the vacuum line with a box cutter & remove it that way - since you are going to replace the line. You could clean the EGR & reuse it if it passes the vacuum test. Those codes from Autozone mean zilch to me. Check my previous post to see if someone in your area w/ a VAG COM will help. I'm sure there is someone within a short distance from you. Keep us posted.

The error you indicated would be an internal problem with the ECM, not likley if the car is running ok. The code may have been tripped if the battery is weak.

Did you get the code reset? Has it come back?

Yes, I had it scaned and reset. By one of our great members Volmaniac------ Here is the readout------VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N


Chassis Type: 35 - VW Passat B4
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,25

Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 028 906 021 GQ
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G00SG 1420
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 07431
1 Fault Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A

Skipping Address 15-Airbags
It is intermittent. Because after we reset it. 2 starts later Check engine light came back on. And it waits for about 40 to 60 sec before it comes back on. If I check the voltage @ the battery. What should it be? I replaced the battery about a year ago. Still have factory alt.

Actually, 65535 errors seem to be pretty common in 1Z ECUs of that vintage.

If the ECU is is "chipped", and sockets have been installed (or if stock chips happen to be socketed), I would try removing the chips, cleaning the sockets and chips with contact cleaner and re-installing.

If that doesn't work, log the voltage your ECU is seeing on Termainal 30. With the engine running, it should be above 13V and nice and steady. If it's not, check power connections, and especially grounds.

-Uwe-

This is also the code that gets set when the rubber tubing inside the ECM develops a leak, or the length of tubing from the ECM to the intake does likewise.

CHEERS TO MOGOLF - Did you realize that you are a genius???
Who would have guessed there was a 3 inch (cheap) vac hose inside the ECM unit? I had already replaced the hose to the ECM unit because it looked it like it needed it and I also replaced vac hoses to the EGR valve because it was cracked....ahhh, but finally after replacing the inside hose and restarting/driving about 3 times the light finally never came back on - YEA Thanks again MOGOLF. I think I'll check back with Volmaniac though to see if he'll hook me up again so that I can clear the fault error out of the memory. Hopefully this will save some others a little less grief and definitely keep the stealership from getting $1K richer and luckily, thanks to you guys and this site it only costed me $10.00 worth of 5/32 hose.

"Would you beleive it is running so smooth now." This is a quote from the wife. She drive it everyday.
Thanks again