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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old January 27th, 2020, 17:40   #46
borjawil
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Checked wiring from outside the block connector to ecu. Disconnected on both sides. Not shorts, ohms at 0.5. I'll check from the connectors at the injectors to the inside of the block tomorrow. If all shows good, is there anything I should check before relaxing an injector or two?

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Old January 28th, 2020, 08:50   #47
borjawil
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2.4v at each injector connector with key on. All ohm at .5 from injector to engine harness. Moved the connector prongs for a tighter fit. And overlayed the grn/brw wire from round connector to ecu. No change.

Going to go ahead and replace the injector and see what happens.



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Old January 29th, 2020, 04:52   #48
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swapped injector. Not sure on values as my VCDS decided to not find the interface. But it still ran poorly. Hopefully someone can chime in and give me a direction to go.

Car is still an hour away so super fun to drive back forth, but ill be towing it home this week and performing a compression test.
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Old January 29th, 2020, 07:32   #49
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Do you still have the DTCs for the cam position sensor and MAF showing up?

Other reasons for the large deviation would be injector related issues(potentially a supply or return issue, injector seals, etc), a cam related issue, or low compression on a cylinder.

A cheap compression test tool from the Horrible Freight or rental from an auto part store would do. You can test from the glow plugs, you should be seeing 450 psi or more.

There's other things you can try, but if you're running out of time and patience, I'd take it to a guru and explain the steps you've taken so far. I've had great luck with Marty, he's over in your neck of the woods.


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Old January 29th, 2020, 08:21   #50
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No DTCs for anything but glow plugs 1, 3, and 4, I think it was, and the EGR DTC which is set for the N3XX vacuum switch being shorted/open, but that is due to the EGR delete and one of the ports on the valve being blocked. Unless Im incorrect and theres and issue with the wiring there. I dont recall what I should be reading at the pins (2 pin connector iirc). If someone knows I can check. Also the misfire DTC would go away but come back after clearing DTCs and starting/turning off after a few cycles during testing.

Im unsure of current status for any DTCs or values after swapping the #2 injector as my VCDS wasnt working.

I am not necessarily pressed on time. I will be towing the vehicle home tomorrow or this weekend and can update any new values/symptoms/etc,

I did however notice that after idling the vehicle during testing approx (5min) then going and undoing the vacuum line on the back of the valve cover there was a release of pressure I could hear. Is that normal? I understand pressure may build up and the vacuum system uses this. Not sure it should be high enough to be audible once vehicle is off.

I also have oil, maybe fuel showing on the front driver side of the block under the head gasket, but not below the valve cover to head gasket. Its not dripping or anything but more of a discoloration/damp. Honestly its been like that quite some time. I am not sure if its from the pump side of the valve cover leaking (i believe its common/prone here to oil leaks), from the pump itself, or where. No mixing of fluids, but I havent run a compression test yet either. When I run a compression test, how do I determine if the injector seals are leaking v. bad cylinder/rings v whatever else it could be? Im more versed in gas engines and doing compression tests to determine causes.

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Old February 10th, 2020, 15:26   #51
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Alright. So got a compression tester, unfortunately it leaks down and doesn't maintain the PSI. But #1,3,&4 hit about 180psi - I know it would be higher if it maintained the needle positon on the gauge and if the engine was warmed up. #2 shows nothing. Needle doesn't move. Could be due to me swapping the injector and a leak at the injector?

Other bad news, 2 of the glow plugs tips are damaged. One has a gouge? About halfway on the tip and the other is missing part of the tip. I don't remember what cylinder it came out of, but I'm gonna go ahead and say this means I've had a small piece of metal banging around in my cylinder.

So, where to go from here? I'd think the next step is to rent a camera to see inside the cylinders to inspect them, and remove the metal bit. Recheck my injector on #2. And retest my compression with a new gauge that doesn't leak down.

If after doing this, my compression in #2 is matching, but I'm still running rough, what are your suggestions?

If after doing this my compression has not changed, what should I check next?


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Old February 13th, 2020, 18:33   #52
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Ok, so a piece of the glow plug did not come off. But there was a gouge or break. Like something hit it, not like it degraded/corroded.

So where should I go from here?

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Old February 20th, 2020, 10:47   #53
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Sorry for the late response, I've been out of town a lot lately.

You mention either fuel or oil leaking around the head gasket, damage to the glow plug, and no compression on that cylinder. Unfortunately, it's likely time to pull the head.

There's a lot of things that need to be checked out, the cam, the head, finding the source of the damage, confirm to see if the rods are bent or rings are shot, etc. It'll probably be a wise choice to have a guru(Marty is a good guy in your areahttp://www.martinbergelllc.com/index.html) get their hands on the car and at least diagnose the issues.

You need to confirm if the lower end is any good and if the head needs to be rebuilt.
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Old February 22nd, 2020, 10:04   #54
00SamIAm00
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I had bad vibration and shuttering from time to time too. After getting most of my emission stuff replaced under waranty, still ran pretty rough. Started to hear a little noise in the clutch maneuvering, and decided it was time for a clutch replacement. Upon inspection found a very tired center on the dual mass flywheel. The flywheel was my culprit...
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