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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old February 6th, 2020, 15:14   #16
Runninwild
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xerootg View Post
It's basically the same block, just punched out to 2.0, and with an extra oil port for the bsm. As far as accessories and stuff it can use BEW stuff.
I know it'll bolt on was just wondering if it puts the hose in roughly the same spot. I guess a better question is does it clear all the bhw accessories?
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Old February 6th, 2020, 16:57   #17
xerootg
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I just went through my pictures trying to establish a factual response, and found something of an answer. If you use a BHW accessory set and motor mounts only the BHW thermostat housing fits. The left mount is clearanced for that. If you fab your own mounts, and use BHW accessories, a BEW housing fits. If you use BEW accessories, a BHW housing fowled on the compressor. It's a bit of a puzzle.

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Old February 6th, 2020, 17:39   #18
Runninwild
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Thanks I made my own mount so I'm thinking it'll work. I'll pick one up and give it a try
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Old February 6th, 2020, 18:11   #19
Eyjafjalladylan
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Originally Posted by evguy1 View Post
I have not had any problems on the Ranger which does have a heater flow control valve.
I think as long as the small 1/4" air bleed line is connected to the top rad hose you should be fine?
I have a very simple setup on all 3 of my swaps. From the lower rad outlet to the T stat housing. From the outlet on the back of the head to the top rad hose. The 1/4" bleed hose off the back of the head is dumped into the top rad hose. The heater comes off the end of the steel pipe that runs around the back of the block from the T Stat location and then the outlet of the water housing on the back of the head. I brazed up all the other outlets on the steel tube.
The rad fans have NEVER come on in 3 years and engine runs perfect temps.
This is just the info I was looking for next. Thank you!
Now the donor motor I am planning on using that has a fresh bsm delete I just realized was missing a glow plug. Looked closer, and it's actually sheared off. Who knows how long it's been like that, but I never noticed it when I bought the engine... Tonight I tried the torx bit trick, thought I got it working, threaded it out, and it ended up being just a chunk of the threaded bit, and it snapped off the rest of the plug which is still stuck inside and so it begins!
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Old February 6th, 2020, 18:14   #20
Eyjafjalladylan
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Originally Posted by Runninwild View Post
Thanks I made my own mount so I'm thinking it'll work. I'll pick one up and give it a try
I am using the mounts from evguy and I am using a bew tstat housing. I can post some pics of it tomorrow for you.
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Old February 29th, 2020, 09:13   #21
d24tdi
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Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
The older engines that had the coolant flange to the radiator coming out between #3 and #4 cylinders on the side of the head (between the injectors) had a must-have-flow concern for the heater circuit, as it came out the end of the head. If you did not have the heater circuit moving, #3 cylinder would get hot, and #4 would cook. Seen it happen.

The later engines that have both the radiator circuit AND the heater circuit coming out the end of the head together are less problematic in this regard. However, they will still not keep the engine uniformly at the same temp during some form of operation, but you'd have no good way of knowing, and since most of these "swaps" tend to OVER cool the engine anyway plus ditch the EGR, there is not likely to ever be any problems. You might, maybe, possibly, be able to use a laser heat thermometer to try and find if the block varies in temp as the coolant goes through it, but chances are it would be hard to do.
Oilhammer, here is a question I was just mulling over, relevant to this discussion, that perhaps you would know the answer to.

The old style 1.6L diesel and related gas engines in early A1 and A2 type cars had the same general cooling system scheme as the early type 1Z/AHU TDI, but those older chassis cars did use a heater control valve. The hose came directly off the back of the head and to my recollection didn't incorporate any heater core bypass for when the valve was closed, so there would be no flow through that circuit if the heater control valve was shut. Yet, this didn't seem to cause any serious cooling problems with those engines (at least not any apparent additional problems, beyond what an IDI head, fiber head gasket, and 11mm head bolts already were creating ).

Did something change in the later engines that went into cars without heater control valves that made them more dependent on flow through the heater circuit for proper cooling? Different size steam holes in the headgasket for example? Why can an old 1.6 IDI survive with this circuit shut yet a 1.9 TDI with the same basic architecture and greater thermal efficiency cannot?
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Old March 1st, 2020, 04:07   #22
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what accessory setup are you going with? if you run BEW you can use it's t stat housing which points more upward.
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