Prairieview
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2017
- Location
- Too close to Sturgis 'ithole
- TDI
- Two 2000 Beetles, 2002 Jetta, 2002 gas avh Jetta, fleet of older 1.6 turbo and non's
I have spent a lot of time using the search and going through old threads. I can not find a duplicate of my problem.
Mid-fall, I made a trip to another state to retrieve a slightly front-end damaged 2002 Jetta ALH with 231,000. Yes, it has the automatic and I am working on acquiring all that is needed for a swap.
The damage included the fiberglas radiator support, radiator, fans, hood, passenger fender, bumper guard, headlights, power steering pump pulley. The car had sustained light impact. None of the intercooler associated parts were damaged (the frontal intercooler ducting was still fine!).
None of the wiring harness appeared damaged. The fuel pump, oil filter, timing cover, fuel filter had any evidence of impact of any kind.....very clean.
All the damaged pieces of the car were there in a pile when I arrived to take possession of the car (private owner). None of it was worth bringing home.
When the seller started the car for a QUICK drive-up onto the U-Haul dolly, the car immediately smoked rather profusely (medium grey color) and misfired with throttle. NOTE: this continues to be the pervasive problem I need help with.)
I have replaced all the damaged components with those off a 2003 gasoline car. None of the radiator electrical plug-ins showed any damage. The gas radiator and plug-ins are identical. The radiator and fans seem to be working perfectly...no leaks, fans come on properly at temp.)
This car was a total unknown so I pulled the intercooler and all pipes. About two drops of oil came from the intercooler. The intercooler and pipes were totally rinsed with gasoline and allowed to dry. The intake tract was found to be perfectly clean (amazing). The shaft play on the turbocharger is as it should be....no in-out.....clearly not coked-up bearing.
There is evidence of a head replacement and turbocharger replacement along with turbo actuator pod. I performed an EGR snake delete and used a diagram from this forum to attach all NEW vacuum lines. I performed the delete retaining the egr spaceship. And, before you ask, YES, the shutter valve is working exactly as it should at all times.
Problem: any time the car is cold started and ran, it produces a large quantity of medium-grey exhaust.....profuse actually. The engine runs rough during this period of time. IMMEDIATELY upon reaching 180 degrees F on the dash temp, it starts running properly......very smooth, very quiet, very responsive to throttle input. I mean, you hit 180 degrees and it is like a switch has been thrown and the problem TOTALLY disappears. It then take like 30 seconds to evacuate the smoke after which NO smoke is emitted.
The car immediately cold starts (and warm starts) at ALL times. I mean, a fly could take a dump on the key and it fires. Rotation of the crank with ratchet displays very good compression in this engine (I have run 1.6's since 1979 and totally went through another ALH this summer....so using this as a comparison on compression to good healthy engines).
The problem never changes in any fashion or at any ambient temps. This car had a brand new Continental cam belt and cam tensioner on it when purchased. The owner had been charged $1508.42 (copy of bill) 750 miles previously for cam belt, water pump, and alternator. I seen no visual proof of new rollers, etc. Could be.....might not be. The alternator installed was a Mexo rebuild....sans clutch pulley (which I had installed now). So, the sky is the limit on exactly what work was done by this Colo. shop. (My experience on repair shops: they only lie when there is still oxygen in their brain cells....which explains me NOT hiring any work done for well over 30 years!)
I have a KII Intelligent Ross-tech and am learning to use it.
Initial findings with Ross-tech:
1) timing was set exactly at middle blue line
2) Inj. quantity as at 2.6 with very little fluctuation
3) I had 17655 needle lift sensor fault
4) idle at 845 rpm
NO OTHER CODES except ABS rear brakes (which has been rectified).
What I have done:
1) Installed a KNOWN good set of manual injectors.....no more lift sensor code
2) set up the idle to 903 (I like slightly higher idles)
3) replaced the green temp sensor with new one...along with o-ring
4) used Ross to increase inj. quantity to 4.0.....no fluctuation
5) set the timing up to 1/4 of the way DOWN from the top line (i.e. increased from dead noots middle blue line to 3/4 way up to top line)
6) I have gone through and used electrical contact cleaner in fuel pump, inj, crank sensor, transmission electrical connections. Nothing looked "dirty."
7) I also removed the temp-controlled fuel pump recirculation "T" and installed a 1986 fuel filter (minus the recirc. orifice) to rule out air intake. Hey...I have lived with 1.6's for 1,000 years!
Verdict: The pervasive cold smoke problem persists EXACTLY the same each time. Once 180 degrees is reached.....bang....problem totally over.
NO fault codes displayed......never an indication of N108 code. EVERYTHING on this car runs seemingly perfect......well, I may have a little slipping in overdrive at 231,000.
I drove the car about 45 miles yesterday at about 52 degrees ambient and the car runs SUPER. I mean it is one hard hitting beetch with that 11 mm pump and manual injectors. NO SMOKE at any given throttle.....car runs super clean. No engine or transmission drips, all the lights work perfectly, all new brakes and total repeated fluid flush, new Kraut anti-freeze, all new power steering Pentosin fluid, NO MAF code, etc.
I only have the check engine light for the egr snake removal....same as my 2000 Beetle I totally rebuilt last summer (due to previous owner performing submarine duty......new bore, rods, pistons, etc.)
I went through all the measuring blocks and wrote down all the info....not sure how to use it all.
013 Measuring block IQ 1 through 4: 0.49 mg/str, -0.28, -0.40, 0.1 mg/str
015 fuel consumpt. 903 rpm, 4.4 mg. str. 0.60 lt/hr
019 Quantity adj. 0.780v 4.600v
013 IG idle stabilization: 0.47, -0.19, -0.38, 0.12
Any other needed info????????
As I have read, seems like a malfunctioning N108 always displays a code????
As stated, the electrical connectors at the radiator seemed perfectly intact.
I need some help, please. Once warm...this car runs GREAT with no hiccup. Sounds smooth as Pia Zadora's butte.
I will only be able to respond late night or mornings.
Thank you.
Mid-fall, I made a trip to another state to retrieve a slightly front-end damaged 2002 Jetta ALH with 231,000. Yes, it has the automatic and I am working on acquiring all that is needed for a swap.
The damage included the fiberglas radiator support, radiator, fans, hood, passenger fender, bumper guard, headlights, power steering pump pulley. The car had sustained light impact. None of the intercooler associated parts were damaged (the frontal intercooler ducting was still fine!).
None of the wiring harness appeared damaged. The fuel pump, oil filter, timing cover, fuel filter had any evidence of impact of any kind.....very clean.
All the damaged pieces of the car were there in a pile when I arrived to take possession of the car (private owner). None of it was worth bringing home.
When the seller started the car for a QUICK drive-up onto the U-Haul dolly, the car immediately smoked rather profusely (medium grey color) and misfired with throttle. NOTE: this continues to be the pervasive problem I need help with.)
I have replaced all the damaged components with those off a 2003 gasoline car. None of the radiator electrical plug-ins showed any damage. The gas radiator and plug-ins are identical. The radiator and fans seem to be working perfectly...no leaks, fans come on properly at temp.)
This car was a total unknown so I pulled the intercooler and all pipes. About two drops of oil came from the intercooler. The intercooler and pipes were totally rinsed with gasoline and allowed to dry. The intake tract was found to be perfectly clean (amazing). The shaft play on the turbocharger is as it should be....no in-out.....clearly not coked-up bearing.
There is evidence of a head replacement and turbocharger replacement along with turbo actuator pod. I performed an EGR snake delete and used a diagram from this forum to attach all NEW vacuum lines. I performed the delete retaining the egr spaceship. And, before you ask, YES, the shutter valve is working exactly as it should at all times.
Problem: any time the car is cold started and ran, it produces a large quantity of medium-grey exhaust.....profuse actually. The engine runs rough during this period of time. IMMEDIATELY upon reaching 180 degrees F on the dash temp, it starts running properly......very smooth, very quiet, very responsive to throttle input. I mean, you hit 180 degrees and it is like a switch has been thrown and the problem TOTALLY disappears. It then take like 30 seconds to evacuate the smoke after which NO smoke is emitted.
The car immediately cold starts (and warm starts) at ALL times. I mean, a fly could take a dump on the key and it fires. Rotation of the crank with ratchet displays very good compression in this engine (I have run 1.6's since 1979 and totally went through another ALH this summer....so using this as a comparison on compression to good healthy engines).
The problem never changes in any fashion or at any ambient temps. This car had a brand new Continental cam belt and cam tensioner on it when purchased. The owner had been charged $1508.42 (copy of bill) 750 miles previously for cam belt, water pump, and alternator. I seen no visual proof of new rollers, etc. Could be.....might not be. The alternator installed was a Mexo rebuild....sans clutch pulley (which I had installed now). So, the sky is the limit on exactly what work was done by this Colo. shop. (My experience on repair shops: they only lie when there is still oxygen in their brain cells....which explains me NOT hiring any work done for well over 30 years!)
I have a KII Intelligent Ross-tech and am learning to use it.
Initial findings with Ross-tech:
1) timing was set exactly at middle blue line
2) Inj. quantity as at 2.6 with very little fluctuation
3) I had 17655 needle lift sensor fault
4) idle at 845 rpm
NO OTHER CODES except ABS rear brakes (which has been rectified).
What I have done:
1) Installed a KNOWN good set of manual injectors.....no more lift sensor code
2) set up the idle to 903 (I like slightly higher idles)
3) replaced the green temp sensor with new one...along with o-ring
4) used Ross to increase inj. quantity to 4.0.....no fluctuation
5) set the timing up to 1/4 of the way DOWN from the top line (i.e. increased from dead noots middle blue line to 3/4 way up to top line)
6) I have gone through and used electrical contact cleaner in fuel pump, inj, crank sensor, transmission electrical connections. Nothing looked "dirty."
7) I also removed the temp-controlled fuel pump recirculation "T" and installed a 1986 fuel filter (minus the recirc. orifice) to rule out air intake. Hey...I have lived with 1.6's for 1,000 years!
Verdict: The pervasive cold smoke problem persists EXACTLY the same each time. Once 180 degrees is reached.....bang....problem totally over.
NO fault codes displayed......never an indication of N108 code. EVERYTHING on this car runs seemingly perfect......well, I may have a little slipping in overdrive at 231,000.
I drove the car about 45 miles yesterday at about 52 degrees ambient and the car runs SUPER. I mean it is one hard hitting beetch with that 11 mm pump and manual injectors. NO SMOKE at any given throttle.....car runs super clean. No engine or transmission drips, all the lights work perfectly, all new brakes and total repeated fluid flush, new Kraut anti-freeze, all new power steering Pentosin fluid, NO MAF code, etc.
I only have the check engine light for the egr snake removal....same as my 2000 Beetle I totally rebuilt last summer (due to previous owner performing submarine duty......new bore, rods, pistons, etc.)
I went through all the measuring blocks and wrote down all the info....not sure how to use it all.
013 Measuring block IQ 1 through 4: 0.49 mg/str, -0.28, -0.40, 0.1 mg/str
015 fuel consumpt. 903 rpm, 4.4 mg. str. 0.60 lt/hr
019 Quantity adj. 0.780v 4.600v
013 IG idle stabilization: 0.47, -0.19, -0.38, 0.12
Any other needed info????????
As I have read, seems like a malfunctioning N108 always displays a code????
As stated, the electrical connectors at the radiator seemed perfectly intact.
I need some help, please. Once warm...this car runs GREAT with no hiccup. Sounds smooth as Pia Zadora's butte.
I will only be able to respond late night or mornings.
Thank you.