How to replace your MkIV's front wheel bearings
- Thread starter scurvy
- Start date
That Guy
Veteran Member
You should do an alignment after that too. There are special tools for that as well.
Oh, and you may need to replace the wheel speed/abs sensors. They are plastic, fit in the knuckles, and often break when being removed. Getting new ones for the new knuckles is easier.
Oh, and you may need to replace the wheel speed/abs sensors. They are plastic, fit in the knuckles, and often break when being removed. Getting new ones for the new knuckles is easier.
steve6
Veteran Member
theres a video on the page, I'd advise watching it
http://www.fixmyvw.com/loaded-drive...le-for-vw-golf-jetta-new-beetle-gti-1-8t-vr6/
it will all make sense when you start doing the job anyways
http://www.fixmyvw.com/loaded-drive...le-for-vw-golf-jetta-new-beetle-gti-1-8t-vr6/
it will all make sense when you start doing the job anyways
ECS Tuning also sells these knuckles loaded with bearings.
Having sampled all of the vendors offering loaded knuckled ECS has the highest quality knuckles.
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Carefully working with the cut off wheel on my Dremel I was able to save both wheel sensors. $70 for two at idparts....it was worth it to save them.
This might be more specific to what you are looking for..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8EGN7IZQiw
Good choice on Vendor, AAROD is A+. I have a peeve about people not responding to emails / questions, especially AFTER they have your $$. FixmyVW always comes through.
4loops
Member
Just replaced my front left wheel bearing with this DIY.. Awesome writeup!
I do have an alternate method for step #3, removing the inner race from the hub.
Instead of cutting off the race and spending a ton of time on that, I was able to use a smaller 2 ton jaw puller, and hooking around the very slight lip that the inner race has when still on the hub.
You can get the jaw puller to stay tight on the race's lip by use of a rubber band.
Here's a few pics of what I was able to do:
First few cranks will be slightly on the lip:
After you pull it up about 1/4 inch, the whole jaw puller tabs will fit under the race:
When you pull it up almost to the top, it won't be so tight, and you can just pull it off, so you don't have to worry about a tool like pictured getting in the way:
Maybe the OP can suggest this easy method instead, in the first post????
I do have an alternate method for step #3, removing the inner race from the hub.
Instead of cutting off the race and spending a ton of time on that, I was able to use a smaller 2 ton jaw puller, and hooking around the very slight lip that the inner race has when still on the hub.
You can get the jaw puller to stay tight on the race's lip by use of a rubber band.
Here's a few pics of what I was able to do:
First few cranks will be slightly on the lip:
After you pull it up about 1/4 inch, the whole jaw puller tabs will fit under the race:
When you pull it up almost to the top, it won't be so tight, and you can just pull it off, so you don't have to worry about a tool like pictured getting in the way:
Maybe the OP can suggest this easy method instead, in the first post????
Nuje
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Location
- Island near Vancouver
- TDI
- 2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
I had a two-jaw puller kit already in my tool arsenal and gave that a try the second time I had to do a wheel bearing.
I've used it a few times now and while it takes me more time to assemble the puller than to actually pull the inner race off, I smile every time I use it because it's just so slick.
I've used it a few times now and while it takes me more time to assemble the puller than to actually pull the inner race off, I smile every time I use it because it's just so slick.
UhOh
Top Post Dawg
I think that that's the one that I have (would have to look). I couldn't get the hooks under the race lip! I ended up dremeling groves further up and getting the hooks to catch; this was a last ditch effort, and I really struggled to get it to work (a rubber band would likely have helped, though not sure how much- it was more about the hooks biting into the metal). Next time I go to do this I'll be sure to have a better plan/tool!I had a two-jaw puller kit already in my tool arsenal and gave that a try the second time I had to do a wheel bearing.
I've used it a few times now and while it takes me more time to assemble the puller than to actually pull the inner race off, I smile every time I use it because it's just so slick.
Nuje
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Location
- Island near Vancouver
- TDI
- 2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Just did a bearing replacement today, and noticed that a few positions around the inner race where I couldn't get the jaws of my puller to stay square.
Having said that, there was at least one where it wedged in nicely.
Maybe two seconds with the baby impact gun, and the inner race all but slid off.
Having said that, there was at least one where it wedged in nicely.
Maybe two seconds with the baby impact gun, and the inner race all but slid off.
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UhOh
Top Post Dawg
I've got to check that out! I'm going to run out to my car and pull...
For sure, the next time I go to do this, which I hope isn't for a LONG time, I'll know what to look for to make this work much easier than it was for my first R&R.
TDI_G
Veteran Member
I fought with a puller last night for about an hour and simply couldn't get enough bite to pull the race off. Went in the garage and busted out the dremel and with a cut-off disc I cut a notch down the race in about 5 minutes and took a chisel to and and after only a couple whacks it cleanly slipped right off.
steve6
Veteran Member
mini grinder and punch always seems to work best for me to get that race off
scurvy
Good Ol' Boy
This has been my experience as well. No amount of futzing with the puller would get it to grip but 30 seconds with the Dremel and a few whacks of the cold chisel with a mini sledge and the inner race popped right off.
The last wheel bearing I did, I even tried using my 4" angle grinder. Definitely more fiddly to get a decent notch and not score the hub, but absolutely doable.
UhOh
Top Post Dawg
You all that are dremeling the race, how did you get the lower "mushroom" part of the race cut? If I recall correctly, I wasn't able to cut down there without gouging into the hub itself: running parallel to the hub's shaft it's hard to get a round wheel to cut to the base.
TDI_G
Veteran Member
I cut it at an angle and didn't even come close to gouging the hub. Just take it slow and you shouldn't have any issues. Don't worry about trying to cut through it completely. If you get 90% through it, you can crack it with a chisel.
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steve6
Veteran Member
also, if you nick the hub its not the end of the world, just sand it flat before trying to re-use it. But the previous point is correct, just notch it enough to get a chisel head/punch in there to cause it to split.
UhOh
Top Post Dawg
OK, thanks for the responses!
I DID nick the hub when I cut perpendicular (it was ugly and brutal way to do it, but in the end it worked- just don't want to repeat this method!), and I'd known in advance that it wouldn't cause any problems- it was nice to know about that as that removed an additional anxiety point from the equation (especially when in the throes of battle!). For me, that is, the job wouldn't have been bad at all had removing the race from the hub not been such a pain.
I DID nick the hub when I cut perpendicular (it was ugly and brutal way to do it, but in the end it worked- just don't want to repeat this method!), and I'd known in advance that it wouldn't cause any problems- it was nice to know about that as that removed an additional anxiety point from the equation (especially when in the throes of battle!). For me, that is, the job wouldn't have been bad at all had removing the race from the hub not been such a pain.
Nuje
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Location
- Island near Vancouver
- TDI
- 2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Given what inadvertent damage I've done with a Dremel before, I'm happy to stick with my puller. A couple minutes to put it together and then hit it with the impact gun - done.
(And gives me a very self-satisfied smile when something works that cleanly and easily.)
(And gives me a very self-satisfied smile when something works that cleanly and easily.)
UhOh
Top Post Dawg
Well, I'm glad that one of has the right tool!
kraftwerkturbo
Veteran Member
Before coming across this post, I faced the problem. Before taking the dremel out, I took the assembly to a local shop asking if they have a puller. Helpful experienced mechanic: "no tool, but I can take it off for you in a minute".
He clamped into a vise, took a torch to the ring (almost looked like on one spot only, but not sure if intentional) and gave it a whack with a chisel. Second hit the ring literally exploded off the shaft.
That's how they do ALL of those rings.
mrrhtuner
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
- Location
- London Ont Canada
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta Wagon TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2015 Touareg TDI
Hey guys, I bought a used spindle/knuckle from a guy locally and it turns out that the hub ABS ring has a slight bend in it.
Would it be still fine to use?
Would it be still fine to use?
scurvy
Good Ol' Boy
I would try to gently straighten it out, but it should be OK to use. The Bentley says the tone ring should be 0.3mm from the wheel speed sensor so use your best judgement.
My personal opinion is no amount of grappling will remove the hub better than a slide hammer, but your grappling skills could be better than mine. Have a buddy make a video of it, YouTube it and let's find out! This definitely sounds like a "hold my beer and check this **** out" kind of moment.
Prairie Chicken
Veteran Member
This is a great write up... I followed it to a "T", even the part of forgetting to install the clip. Ug! Fortunately I didn't have the hub all the way in before seeing the clip laying there so it wasn't a problem getting the inner race off the hub.
Once the hub is installed, will it be a little wobbly before getting the axle torqued down? It turns fine but has some play in it.
Once the hub is installed, will it be a little wobbly before getting the axle torqued down? It turns fine but has some play in it.
Mike_04GolfTDI
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- Nov 19, 2003
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- Richmond, BC, Canada
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- Mine: 2019 Golf R DSG, Wife's: 2015 Golf Comfortline TDI
Maybe a little wobble is normal. The inner race is in two pieces, and tightening the axle nut squeezes them together to put some pre-load on the bearings. (It would probably be more correct to say there are two inner races.)
mrrhtuner
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2011
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- London Ont Canada
- TDI
- 2003 Jetta Wagon TDI, 2015 Passat TDI, 2015 Touareg TDI
Has anybody used an electric impact gun to remove the wheel bearings with the wheel bearing tool?
I don't have air tools but I do have an electric impact gun that's pretty much brand new.
I don't have air tools but I do have an electric impact gun that's pretty much brand new.
j_martell
Veteran Member
as long as the torque is comparable, it should be fine. they used a 3/4 drive impact on mine when they did it. 1/2" air line, so it wasn't a torque monster. Took a good 45 mins to get the knuckle free of the car tho. Apparently it had been together through a number of southern ontario winters lol
Mike_04GolfTDI
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2003
- Location
- Richmond, BC, Canada
- TDI
- Mine: 2019 Golf R DSG, Wife's: 2015 Golf Comfortline TDI
I used an electric. No problem at all. However, it was a Milwaukee 2763-22...
If you're talking about one of those cheap ones, probably not going to work.