Turbo & intake swap

The following photos are of the exhaust bolts holding the shield on the pass side of exhaust manifold. One nut came off and the other held on while the bolt sheared off. Will this happen when removing the manifold? What is done with this scene?

As far as I know this is the first time in 155k that this has been messed with, here is a couple egr shots

Fahrvegnugen said:

The following photos are of the exhaust bolts holding the shield on the pass side of exhaust manifold. One nut came off and the other held on while the bolt sheared off. Will this happen when removing the manifold? What is done with this scene?

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Not positive but I think its just a stud that came out with the nut.
Unless you see the rest flush with the block it should be OK.

Fahrvegnugen said:

As far as I know this is the first time in 155k that this has been messed with, here is a couple egr shots

Click to expand...

Mine was clogged worse then that when I checked mine.
You have to pull the intake manifold to clean it properly.
Do not risk cleaning it on the car, if any sludge goes down the runner it could cause valve / piston damage.
You need the intake & a few EGR gaskets as well as the EGR o-ring.
IDParts.com has all of it.

I got everything to remove intake, im swapping it with a cleaned one, I got Id parts egr and intake kits. If the manifolds come off clean, my biggest concern will be cleaning the valve openings. I plan to spin the front wheels while in gear on jack stands, watching with valve cover off to see each valve in the closed position before cleaning.
I think it'll Be a tough angle to be cleaning in there. Did you clean your runners too, or just the intake?

Fahrvegnugen said:

The following photos are of the exhaust bolts holding the shield on the pass side of exhaust manifold. One nut came off and the other held on while the bolt sheared off. Will this happen when removing the manifold? What is done with this scene?

Click to expand...

You probably won't have any issues removing the actual manifold. Some of the studs will pull out of the head and some will stay in. I always replace all the studs and nuts and I use the copper nuts. Make sure you have the proper washer in there. I've never had an issue with an intake manifold. Just make sure to get the 6mm hex well seated in the bolt.

If you have both wheels in the air you'll need to stick a screwdriver etc in one of the rotors between the caliper and caliper carrier or you won't be able to turn the engine over.

As far as keeping junk out of the engine, I think what I did was just used compressed air to blow all the junk out after I had scrapped it off the runner (valve closed of course)

screwdriver in caliper, good to know!
I could tightened the two bottom middle intake bolts, so I felt well seated in the bolts, however once I went to loosen them there was some slop and now I'd say they're stripped. I tried a new 13mm easy out on one of them but it isn't gripping. I tapped it with mallet, but I think it isn't lining up well. Is there something else I can do? I tried making a notch with cut off wheel but it won't fit in there. I worked standing in front, and tried kneeling on engine to get those bolts. Now I'm looking for a snap on style "saving grace" tool.

These work pretty good they might also make a smaller set
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Bolt-out-Piece-Damaged-Remover/dp/B007C6KKAK


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I got the kit of Irwin easy offs with the extension set and 13mm is the closest to fitting but won't go on the bolt head completely, 14mm goes on but it's too loose. I'll try the craftsman ones asap, i think I'll try the 1/2" sae sized one. I got a 6mm ball end L shaped hex and that gets good purchase, but no torque. When I grip it with pliers it fouls up. I tried a torch but decided I'd like to get the vehicle back up and running. So I put the torch down.

For the stripped intake bolts hammer in as hard as you can a T40 or T45 (whichever one doesn't just slip right in) and you'll probably be able to undo it with your fingers. Make sure to hammer on a 3" extension and not the T40 or T45 because you will damage the end. Keep the 3" extension because you'll need it for more hammering of those ridiculous allen head bolts as you work on your VW.
If you don't have a T45 or T40, then use a punch that is larger than the head of the bolt and hammer the snot out of it. It will cause the bolt to vibrate loose and also will mushroom the 6mm opening closed so you can put the right 6mm allen in it and remove it. If you hit the bolt hard enough you'll have to hammer the 6mm allen bit into the bolt. Don't waste your time with the ball end hex things, they are for very low torque applications.

Burn, i used the hammering technique and broke one free with the 13mm easy out, the other one is blocked by the exhaust manifold. I think hammering in the t40 is my solution on that one but i lost it two days ago. I almost got it with a size 8 triple square. The easy out bites into the exhaust mani and pops loose.

I was fortunate in that I had no bolt issues with either of the two cars that I cleaned intakes on.

When I cleaned intakes I didn't have a garage. I just had the cars in gear and pushed them a bit.

Wife's car's intake (150k or so at the time) was clogged more than what yours appears to be and it ran fine. My car's intake was really clogged, and that was only at 120k miles! (I got it with 114k miles and knew early on that it's horrible performance was all due to clogging.)

I ended up cleaning out the intake ports in the head of the wife's car (here is where my car was in good shape). Used a mirror (and camera), various scraping tools, shop vac and compressed air. Be sure to stuff clean (lint free) rags/towels in the top of the head to keep any debris from finding its way there: not sure why I just didn't set the valve cover back on as I cleaned- maybe I figured it would have obstructed my cleaning. I recall this process taking another fours hours to do.

I'm borrowing a friend's garage, today is day 3. I've read about your long driveway uhoh I was planning on being done by now, jacking up all 4 corners and spraying corrosion free and ordering every type of body plug until the frame had no open holes. So far I found the plugs to keep the diesel fumes outside the cabin. I wouldn't want to jack up all 4 in my dirt driveway, (2 is risky) and I knew this job wouldn't go smoothly.
My turbo is probably fine, but i want to rule out sticking vanes (I can't get inspection with cel on.) the intake doesn't look terrible and the intercooler is coated but dry, no oil came out. I already replaced all vacuum lines and swapped n18 and n75. Maf has been replaced 4+ times on this car I believe. I oven cleaned it and got power but cel persists. I adjusted Actuator so it appeared correct and got the cel even more often. I'll put the valve cover back on since I'm paranoid a t40 (etc) will fall in the engine while cleaning.

I got intake off!

Used a mirror (and camera), various scraping tools, shop vac and compressed air.

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I’m cleaning port 1 and imagine you got it shiny. Is it worth it? It seems too gooey further in for it to flake off. I think i see cog like objects that I can poke with a screwdriver, I can’t damage anything with cylinder closed?
The wheel works great to turn over engine, but why does it hiss?

Fahrvegnugen said:

I got intake off!
I’m cleaning port 1 and imagine you got it shiny. Is it worth it? It seems too gooey further in for it to flake off. I think i see cog like objects that I can poke with a screwdriver, I can’t damage anything with cylinder closed?
The wheel works great to turn over engine, but why does it hiss?

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It's a tough call as to when to call it "done." Mr Murphy lives with me so I tend to have to be totally thorough (I get no breaks [of luck]). If it's really gooey then you might be able to spray some carb cleaner in there and then blow it with compressed air. Please note that I have not done this (or if I did, I can't remember), in which case I do not know how effective or safe this might be: I'm guessing that as long as you have the valves closed you're fine. BUT, the real concerns seem to be with stuff flaking and then sticking between the valve and valve seat, or a big enough chunk could cause problems inside the combustion chamber- these are possibilities; I have no real sense for how probable (there are arguments on both sides of this debate).

I'm wanting to say that I used a pick, a seal pick. Again, it took me FOUR hours to clean, which means ONE hour on each port! Some of my extra motivation was because this was my wife's car: I don't want her stranded due to a car problem (especially not a byproduct of work I've done!). Also figured that I was going to be doing this only once (it went 150k miles and was still OK; current configuration and driving style is guaranteed to go well beyond this), so why not do it all the way and never look back.

Hissing? Have snakes around? OK, no, that's perfectly normal: you're compressing air and then expelling it: you don't hear it when the engine is running because of the exploding fuel

Got everything done and drove it with cel on, fully warmed up I got to almost 3k rpm and there was a pop and then shuddering like it was going to stall out. More acceleration kept it going. Got home, opened hood and there was burned smelling smoke, and saw the large hose on passenger side of egr valve disconnected. I hooked it up but I’m not sure what to do now.

Fahrvegnugen said:

Got everything done and drove it with cel on, fully warmed up I got to almost 3k rpm and there was a pop and then shuddering like it was going to stall out. More acceleration kept it going. Got home, opened hood and there was burned smelling smoke, and saw the large hose on passenger side of egr valve disconnected. I hooked it up but I’m not sure what to do now.

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Was the hose fully on and the clamp tight?
I had a lower hose pop off during my 1st timing belt change.
The clamp wasn't seated correctly on the top.

I may have left it unattached. If that was the case, what harm could that cause? I drove it 1.5 miles total, pop sound about 0.7 miles in.

Fahrvegnugen said:

I may have left it unattached. If that was the case, what harm could that cause? I drove it 1.5 miles total, pop sound about 0.7 miles in.

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Not likely to cause any harm....as long as nothing falls in there, re-attach and motor on.