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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old January 22nd, 2019, 05:23   #46
vtpsd
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Questions for other Toyota swap people:
-Did you use the existing toyota fuel lines from the tank? Mine are perfect since my truck hasnt ever been in the salt, but the return looks quite small.

-I assume others have used a 22re bell housing? I have one in the shop. Just noticing the starter is on the opposite side as the tacoma original. I probably need to use a 22re clutch fork, TOB and clutch slave setup to match my bell housing?
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current: 03 jetta wagon (pp520, malone stg3, straight pipe), ford tractor with saab turbo, Snarling Audi 90q AHU swap (holset he211w, 32psi, race 520's)
past:11 second audi 90 20vt monster, 20vt swapped audi 90 winter beater, 10vt swapped 4kq with efi and many many other 5 cylinder audis, and a few 1.8tq's

Last edited by vtpsd; January 22nd, 2019 at 11:03.
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Old January 23rd, 2019, 04:14   #47
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yes on using the stock tacoma lines, no issue there... i did repurpose the evap line to a tank vent with a small sintered bronze fuel filter on the open end under the hood....i did use a 22r bell/release fork/slave on the taco w59
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Old January 27th, 2019, 12:43   #48
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so i've got the engine in and starting to look at positioning before hacking up oil pans and building engine mounts.



I failed to take enough measurements with the 3rz in place.


It looks like the transmission input and output, transfer case output and crankshaft should all be in a straight line?



I have been using a laser level to shoot right down the center of the crank, to the rear output of the transfer case and onto the center carrier bearing and diff input flange. I am assuming that I need to get those all in a straight line.



Does this line of thinking make sense?
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current: 03 jetta wagon (pp520, malone stg3, straight pipe), ford tractor with saab turbo, Snarling Audi 90q AHU swap (holset he211w, 32psi, race 520's)
past:11 second audi 90 20vt monster, 20vt swapped audi 90 winter beater, 10vt swapped 4kq with efi and many many other 5 cylinder audis, and a few 1.8tq's
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Old January 27th, 2019, 18:31   #49
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I did some more measuring and laser checking. I got my oil pan notched out to clear the front diff, following what Jimbote did with his truck.


I am stuck on one thing, I cant get the driveshaft straight given the movement in my transmission mount. My technique is this: Line laser level up from front of truck with vertical beam centered on the pinion of the rear diff, centered on the carrier bearing in the middle of the driveshaft and I move the engine around until it is also centered on the output of the transfer case, so the driveshaft is in a perfect, straight line.



The problem is this: the engine itself is cocked toward the driver side when i force the rear of the trans to be in a straight line with the carrier bearing and pinion of the rear diff. The driveshaft is not perfectly perpendicular to the transfer case. It acts like the actual transmission mount needs to slide to the passenger side about half an inch. If I could do that, my crankshaft would be in line with the output of the transfer case and the driveshaft would be 90 degrees perpendicular to the driveshaft. However, there is no adjustability to speak of, certainly nowhere near enough.


Im at a bit of a loss, and am about to drill new holes in the cross member under the trans to shift it to where I want. It must have been like this with the stock engine in it. I wish I had looked more closely.



Has anyone else ever seen this issue? Am I getting too picky? I'm trying to get things as straight as possible before I start building the mounts.



Does anyone know if the tacoma output of the transfer case is perfectly inline with the transmission input shaft? I cant tell really by looking under the truck.
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current: 03 jetta wagon (pp520, malone stg3, straight pipe), ford tractor with saab turbo, Snarling Audi 90q AHU swap (holset he211w, 32psi, race 520's)
past:11 second audi 90 20vt monster, 20vt swapped audi 90 winter beater, 10vt swapped 4kq with efi and many many other 5 cylinder audis, and a few 1.8tq's
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Old January 28th, 2019, 02:57   #50
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I will be starting a similar project this year, 1985 4Runner. Not sure about the alignment issue you speak of, mine has no motor, so I don’t think I can look for you. It sounds like a small amount that the u-joints would account for if you could live with it.
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Old January 28th, 2019, 07:20   #51
vtpsd
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Here are some pics:
3rz coming out;





adapter in place with 22re bell housing installed:



TDI in place and bolted to trans



got some decent firewall clearance thanks to the thickness of the adapter plate.



Oil pan will conflict with front diff. Going to try and notch out the ALH pan.






using a laser level to try and get the driveline straight, having some issues there, not sure what the solution is quite yet.



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current: 03 jetta wagon (pp520, malone stg3, straight pipe), ford tractor with saab turbo, Snarling Audi 90q AHU swap (holset he211w, 32psi, race 520's)
past:11 second audi 90 20vt monster, 20vt swapped audi 90 winter beater, 10vt swapped 4kq with efi and many many other 5 cylinder audis, and a few 1.8tq's
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Old January 28th, 2019, 11:28   #52
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I would get it straight to the carrier bearing and let the rest be offset,that's not that much.
Samurai guys that are using Toyota drive train with the offset samurai diff. are like 5"
out and they hold up,and you want at least 5ļ on the u-joints anyway.
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Old January 28th, 2019, 11:59   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1.9ZOOK View Post
I would get it straight to the carrier bearing and let the rest be offset,that's not that much.
Samurai guys that are using Toyota drive train with the offset samurai diff. are like 5"
out and they hold up,and you want at least 5ļ on the u-joints anyway.
Good to know! I'm not really concerned about longevity with this setup, but since this truck will be a road warrior and rarely wheeled, I dont want any drivetrain vibrations. I assume most dudes with toy axles under sammis are not driving 700 miles a week in their trucks at 70mph, so slight vibes may not matter. I am probably overthinking this, I'm not super experienced with truck stuff. My only other truck experience has been with stock rigs or my 85 4runner that was a wheeling rig, and I didnt really care about minute details.

Here is the type of driveshaft I have, has a center bearing and a CV or double ujoint after the center before the rear ujoint. Also has a joint at the transfer case output.




Here are my 3 options that I can see. These are all looking at the drivetrain from the TOP view.

Option A is how you would install the engine without measuring. I.E., trans mount stays in place and you visually align the engine crankshaft with frame rails, center bell housing in tunnel etc.

Option B is what happens when I climb under and force the output of the transfer case toward passenger side to get the driveshaft straight. I.E. drivetrain pivots on the trans mount.

Option C involes me drilling NEW mounting holes in the crossmember about 1/2" to 3/4" offset to allow the whole thing to be in a straight line.




I cannot see anything bent or out of line in the truck enough to cause such a discrepancy. I am wondering if the crankshaft is naturally offset from the rear diff by around an inch from the factory? I cant see to find any info on this over the internet. Only finding info about people leveling the shafts in the vertical direction after a lift etc.
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current: 03 jetta wagon (pp520, malone stg3, straight pipe), ford tractor with saab turbo, Snarling Audi 90q AHU swap (holset he211w, 32psi, race 520's)
past:11 second audi 90 20vt monster, 20vt swapped audi 90 winter beater, 10vt swapped 4kq with efi and many many other 5 cylinder audis, and a few 1.8tq's

Last edited by vtpsd; January 28th, 2019 at 12:01.
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Old January 29th, 2019, 06:03   #54
Exenos
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Vertical or horizontal doesn't mater, its all the same idea. Its perfectly fine to have a few degrees of offset but the key is to make sure both flanges are parallel. U joint driveshafts don't mind a bit of off set but differing input and output angles can play havoc with vibrations.
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Old January 29th, 2019, 06:32   #55
vtpsd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exenos View Post
Vertical or horizontal doesn't mater, its all the same idea. Its perfectly fine to have a few degrees of offset but the key is to make sure both flanges are parallel. U joint driveshafts don't mind a bit of off set but differing input and output angles can play havoc with vibrations.
I think I get that concept, but whats throwing me is the CV joint in the middle with a carrier bearing on the front of it. I get the two parts being parallel with a single piece driveshaft, but I cant wrap my head around what the CV joint in the middle does to the situation. It seems like even if the engine and pinion are parallel, the center bearing is keeping the joint at the rear diff straight and angling the front half of the shaft. It seems like i would have to slot the center bearing to make the two shafts pieces in a straight line to make that work.

I did some more lasering yesterday, and found that the transfer case output is in line with the crankshaft. I can make things totally straight in the horizontal by offsetting the trans mount about 3/8". Shooting a laser right down the truck, centered perfectly between the frame rails, the rear pinion and center bearing are centered. The trans mount is to the passenger side by 3/8". It does look like the crossmember took a rock hit at some point, and is somewhat tweaked. It doesn't look like this is my cause, but it might be. I think I am going to slot the holes and slide the crossmember over to get everything in a straight line. Then set the transfer case angle to match the pinion angle.
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current: 03 jetta wagon (pp520, malone stg3, straight pipe), ford tractor with saab turbo, Snarling Audi 90q AHU swap (holset he211w, 32psi, race 520's)
past:11 second audi 90 20vt monster, 20vt swapped audi 90 winter beater, 10vt swapped 4kq with efi and many many other 5 cylinder audis, and a few 1.8tq's

Last edited by vtpsd; January 29th, 2019 at 06:37.
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Old January 29th, 2019, 14:27   #56
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looking good so far... i didn't pay too much attention to the DS angle and i don't have any weird vibes ... i did drop my diff using a spacer kit plus extra nuts/longer bolts for even more drop
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Old January 30th, 2019, 05:11   #57
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I remember years ago my uncle, who was an engineer, told me a u-joint at an angle changes the speed the shaft turns. So your angles front and back should match, a CV, constant velocity joint, makes up for this. I didn’t get the physics of it then and still don’t, but accepted it. I was pretty young and never asked him to explain it when I got older. Damn it!
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Old January 30th, 2019, 08:04   #58
vtpsd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbote View Post
looking good so far... i didn't pay too much attention to the DS angle and i don't have any weird vibes ... i did drop my diff using a spacer kit plus extra nuts/longer bolts for even more drop
Yea, I'm planning on dropping it at least an inch, or more if need be. Probably should have at least 1/2" clear above the diff to account for engine and diff mount movement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmodge View Post
I remember years ago my uncle, who was an engineer, told me a u-joint at an angle changes the speed the shaft turns. So your angles front and back should match, a CV, constant velocity joint, makes up for this. I didnít get the physics of it then and still donít, but accepted it. I was pretty young and never asked him to explain it when I got older. Damn it!
I get it, sort of, and I am probably overthinking it. However, when I shoot a laser right down the middle of the truck, there are some obvious center castings on the trans, transfer case and a even a little notch perfectly in the center of the trans mount. I believe these should all be in a straight line horizontally. I plan to adjust my crossmember some to accomplish this, since its pretty easy to do, and if I found I made a terrible mistake, I can just replace that crossmember.
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current: 03 jetta wagon (pp520, malone stg3, straight pipe), ford tractor with saab turbo, Snarling Audi 90q AHU swap (holset he211w, 32psi, race 520's)
past:11 second audi 90 20vt monster, 20vt swapped audi 90 winter beater, 10vt swapped 4kq with efi and many many other 5 cylinder audis, and a few 1.8tq's
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Old February 8th, 2019, 09:39   #59
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I'm going to ask the most annoying question on here: what nozzles should I get.

I intend to use the vnt15 because I have 3 of them, the power may be adequate and I love the crazy whistle they make (if I'm being honest).

However, I may require more power and need to swap to a vnt17 with appropriate tune, so nozzles should be plenty for that.

I have the 11mm pump. I think I am between DLC1019 and PP764. Any reason to chose one over the other?
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current: 03 jetta wagon (pp520, malone stg3, straight pipe), ford tractor with saab turbo, Snarling Audi 90q AHU swap (holset he211w, 32psi, race 520's)
past:11 second audi 90 20vt monster, 20vt swapped audi 90 winter beater, 10vt swapped 4kq with efi and many many other 5 cylinder audis, and a few 1.8tq's
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Old February 11th, 2019, 07:00   #60
vtpsd
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Got the motor aligned up and mounts built. I copied this design from a couple other people and added my own touches, so thank you if that was you!.

I used 3/16 plate and .120 wall ERW tubing. The mounts are hydraulic passat BHW TDI mounts from a b5.5. The engine angle ended up at about 5 degrees, and the rear diff is about 6, so that should be good.













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current: 03 jetta wagon (pp520, malone stg3, straight pipe), ford tractor with saab turbo, Snarling Audi 90q AHU swap (holset he211w, 32psi, race 520's)
past:11 second audi 90 20vt monster, 20vt swapped audi 90 winter beater, 10vt swapped 4kq with efi and many many other 5 cylinder audis, and a few 1.8tq's

Last edited by vtpsd; February 11th, 2019 at 07:04.
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