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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old July 25th, 2016, 22:32   #1
xerootg
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Default John's Jeep Cherokee BHW swap

I was just cruising youtube when I came across one Coty Built's builds, and thought, "man thats schweet!" I started emailing back and fourth with them, and once I started asking questions that were deeper than "I want to spend $7k on your starter kit" they stopped corresponding. Right about then, EVGuy started selling his adapter kits. It occurred to me that I should be able to piece together my own setup that wasn't so questionable. My primary concerns with the Coty setup is the truss. The truss, while it places all of the accessories in the correct position to retain stock parts, looks like it would make wrenching difficult, and these engines do have a sub 100k mile timing belt.

I started with most of a BEW out of a Jetta, a BHW (Passat) ECU and harness, and a couple blown turbos from a handful of vehicles. I popped the head off of the "running" BEW to find that the compressor inducer had removed considerable material from cylinders 1 and 2.

Found the BEW I picked up on Craigslist for $600 with about 180k miles on it in Victoria, BC. The prior owner helped me hoist it into the back of my XJ, and I brought it home!






I got ahold of a reputable machine shop (franko6) and found out I was looking at needing a rebuilt head and atlest some block work thanks to the cylinder walls being scored. Also, it had considerably uneven piston protrusion. The cost of this rebuild pushed me to look for a different engine to start with before I dumped too much in the smaller of the TDIs in the USA.









Using an EBay ECU bench I was able to dump the ECU and remove the immobilizer. Once I get a running engine, ill start it up before getting anywhere near the Jeep.



At this point I sold off the parted out BEW components that aren't ruined and building a used low mile BHW. The BHW has 2mm of extra bearing journal surface, better pistons, larger injectors, and a slightly lower compression ratio for better ability to take boost. Its weakness is this miserable piece of German overengineering called a BSM (Balance Shaft Module) that tends to die and take out the oil pump, but fortunately the BEW's robust oil pump will move right over to the BHW.

I want to retain the AC, Defroster, high idle, and the cruse controls. My plans for those are to use a VW AC module to run a VW compressor for both defroster functions and AC. I plan on using the documented (but unused on anything VW published or in bentley) high idle ECU pin. For the cruise, I will have to run an arduino to translate button presses on the resistor ladder to individual IOs the EDC16 (Bosch ECU) expects, while I am doing that I wouldn't mind having some media buttons on the steering wheel... so I'll be looking for either a ZJ, WJ, or KJ steering wheel to butcher up.

As I said, I've been working on the CANBUS aspect, and thats promising for some info, but the speedo data is crap at being on a scale of 1-254 of an unknown unit. VW decided that the ECU shouldn't send distance to the cluster, so they pass the VSS through the cluster and condition the signal received by the ECU, so I need to replicate that signal and track distance at the cluster. I have two options there: 1) analog gauges - I like the VDO Viewline Onyx series in a auto meter 5381 panel or 2) drive a stock dash's air core gauges using another arduino. McNeil has been working on just that for his Wrangler but I'm leaning towards the VDO stuff.

My wife got me a 30 gallon genright for the project and I have read conversions like these get between 25 and 35 MPG... so after I've spend untold thousands, I should be able to go almost anywhere without fueling up!

I picked up a BHW (2.0L - 134HP stock) out of a 2005 Passat off EBay. Now the work begins

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Old July 25th, 2016, 22:33   #2
xerootg
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First order of business, the accessories need to be a little more compact to fit in between the XJ frame rails. To do this I am going to use the accessories bracket off of a BEW, 04-06 Golf or Jetta will do.



The accessories fit nice and tight.





This bracket needs to be notched to work with the BHW longitudinal motor mounts. Initially I felt this was the way to go based off of other threads here sich as jimbote's yota. My grinder makes short work of aluminum.





The compressor unfortunately hits, this chunk needs to be trimmed.





I swapped the dampner from the BEW too, the BEW accessories are on a single belt and the BHW accessories are on 2 separate belts. Everything fits now, just need to rebuild the power steering pump, alternator, and compressor before giving them the final tightening.



Now... realistically I had compromised the structural integrity of the left motor mount with my extreme trimming. I either needed to replace it or reinforce it. If I had chose to fab my own mounts, it would have serve as nothing more than a template, because I would feel better fabbing brackets to use OEM Jeep mounts anyway. The brown dog mount seems more sturdy than the VW oil filled mounts. I am not afraid of vibes. At the end of this excersize I ended up buying EVGuy's mounts because it keeps the project moving.

Heating:

I do not like being cold. I also like traveling to cold places. I have a three phased approach to cold on this project:
  • Use the 3 glowplug rear head housing available in Europe. I ebayed and got part # 038121145 and 03812133A which bolts up nicely. I will butcher up the extra BHW harness to build a relay setup for this and either flash a BGW s/w load onto my edc16 or have a tuner figure that out while doing the needed manual transmission conversion needed for the BHW software.
  • I REALLY like the idea of Malone's dynamic EGR he has figured out. 99% likely of going this route.
  • EBay webasto Thermo Top. This has been purchased, and will be plumbed in when the tank gets swapped.

I had issues with the BHW hard coolant lines, the thermostat housing, and the motor mounts. I ended up mixing in a Dorman 902-990 (VW# 048121121B) thermostat housing off Amazon. It does not interfere with anything yet... time will tell and something will have to give. The hosing has had some iterations (combos to BEW and BHW hoses) but this is what it looks like generally speaking:


I favored the aluminum housing you can get for the 1.8t engine, but I couldn't justify the price for something that id immediately chop up to make fit.

The 3 glowplug head looks like this:
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Old July 25th, 2016, 22:35   #3
xerootg
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AC Compressor:

The stock compressor DOES NOT fit. I am researching a replacement. There are several options here. I am looking at an HD option that has the same displacement as the TDI had but has an improved head for better efficency. The Sanden 4660 is the current option, but I also considered Sanden part numbers 4455, 4323, 7304, and 4711. 4660 is the HD version of 4711 from what I can tell.

The stock VW compressor has the same ear to ear dimensions as the average long ear mount sanden BUT the compressing bushing that is pressed into the rear ears takes up a 3mm difference in the mounting pads. No matter what compressor I go with, I will need to fabricate some spacer and possibly mill the accessory adapter to work.

Fans and AC Control:
I am using a 28mm "temperature gauge pipe", milled the top off, drilled the hole out to 13/16", and tapped it to m22x1.5 to fit the temperature sensor that usually goes in a Jetta radiator.


I also got a Volvo fan. Its like the Taurus fan everyone is gaga about BUT its brackets are FLAT and do not require excessive modification to fit everyday applications. I plan on grafting this into a stock Jeep fan shroud.

Mounts and Adapters:
I have procured EVGuy's Motor mounts and engine adapter


The purchase list:
  • GTC1549VZ turbo - it spools fast and stays strong up to around 200 HP
  • Sprinter intercooler
  • NPG Racing steel oil pan
  • late 90's Dodge Diesel fuel pump unit, 68003865AB (low pressure, the mechanical pump on these engines only needs 8psi)
  • fuel-water separator, 2 micron filter. I'm considering using the duramax filter (12642624) head with a CAT filter adapter since the duramax head has a built in heater and primer pump.
  • return fuel line
  • AX15 shifter out of a Dakota to bend up (the engine moves the transmission 4" forward)
  • Novak transfer case shifter
  • Stage 2 cam, timing belt, lifters, BSM delete.... blah blah
  • XJ Clutch and flywheel kit - the current one is 200k miles old.

The to-do list right now is:
  • figure out intercooling - on the fence over water-air or water water
  • figure out air filtration
  • rebuild tandem pump
  • rebuild A/C, alternator, PS Pump
  • Found a snorkel that goes on the right hand side of an XJ, debating one of those.
  • Route A/C lines

I also just bought my first house. This has severely slowed progress... but in the Seattle market, it made more sense than renting, since my mortgage is less than rent was!

So, tell me guys, how insane is this project?
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Old July 26th, 2016, 04:53   #4
john.jackson9213
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You will be VERY happy with the GTC1549VZ turbo. I know I am happy with mine! The spool is great.
Looking at a TDI conversion for a Jeep Comanche - so following with interest.
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Old July 26th, 2016, 20:11   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john.jackson9213 View Post
Looking at a TDI conversion for a Jeep Comanche
You wouldn't happen to be starting with one of the 4 cylinder Comanches, would you?

I haven't seen a lot of feedback on the gtc1549vz, just a handful of posts along the lines of "it spools fast" and that's about it. Seems like most builds are based off larger, slower to spool turbos. Is there a compressor map floating around out there for it?
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Old July 27th, 2016, 22:07   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xerootg View Post
AC Compressor:
So, tell me guys, how insane is this project?
If its not insane then its not fun.
Nice to see you on the forum.
You may not need to move the trans 4" forward, possibly 2" may workjust fine.
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Old July 27th, 2016, 22:46   #7
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Compressor magic, I mean math

I've been doing math on fitting a compressor. I have 185mm from the center of the forward-most tooth on the serpentine belt to the front of the motor mount to work with here. The stock compressor is 214mm long from the first tooth to the rear of the compressor for anyone wondering why it won't fit. The 4660 I favor for this swap is 192mm from the first tooth to the rear of the compressor. 112mm of body, 46.5mm of first groove to body, and a 33.4mm head. It has an 8 groove pulley, so chopping off 3.56*2, we have 184.78mm to work with. Good grief, that's TIGHT.

Next I need to calculate where that puts the ears of the compressor in relation to the alternator bracket. The stock compressor is 68.9mm from the first tooth to the bracket (rear of the front ear on the compressor). This 4660 is 53.78mm to the same point, leaving a 15.12mm gap to fill.

4660:


4255OEM)


The rear ear is 14.4mm long and is 3.3mm further back from the bracket mounting bar, since the mounting bar on the bracket is 80mm long and the 3.6mm gap left on the VW compressor is taken up with the friction compressed bushing that sleeves into the rear ear of the VW compressor. I need to cut 15mm out of the rear of the bracket, so there wont be any rear support and the rear half of the bracket mounting bar will only have 3.3mm of aluminum left after moving the compressor forward.



Here's an overhead view of my logic:


That leaves 2 questions before I take the plunge on a $260 compressor that might fit:
1) is 2mm (ish) enough clearance between the compressor and motor mount?
2) is 3mm (ish) of material at the rear of the compressor mount bar substantial enough?

Anyone have any feedback?
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Old July 28th, 2016, 18:28   #8
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what side is the jeep compressor on?
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Old July 28th, 2016, 19:00   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbote View Post
what side is the jeep compressor on?
It is on the right side.



I am planning on running the discharge over the top of the engine (tandem pump region) and the suction across the front to the condenser like they do on the right hand drive Cherokees.
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Old July 29th, 2016, 02:03   #10
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could you use the BHW compressor bracket and mount the jeep compressor to it with a fabbed adapter, you would need to extend and/or bend lines but it could save you from having to buy another compressor
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Old July 29th, 2016, 06:27   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xerootg View Post
You wouldn't happen to be starting with one of the 4 cylinder Comanches, would you?

I haven't seen a lot of feedback on the gtc1549vz, just a handful of posts along the lines of "it spools fast" and that's about it. Seems like most builds are based off larger, slower to spool turbos. Is there a compressor map floating around out there for it?
Send me your email address and I will share what I have found.

The Comanche is/was a factory 4 cylinder Renault 2.1 TurboDiesel, so I will have no issues with the Calif. DMV
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1996 B4V, Hella E-Codes, GLX leather, EuroTuning.cz 02A 6 speed conversion w/.71 5th and .588 6th gear, A4 shift linkage by Matt-98AHU. 11 mm pump by Oldpoopie. Now, GTC1549VZ turbo by Whitbread. TDtuning, 24 lbs. boost, 162 hp, 285 lb/ft tq. Smoke Free (9/18/15). Koni Yellows and Big Brake 5 lug conversion.
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Old July 29th, 2016, 11:36   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbote View Post
could you use the BHW compressor bracket and mount the jeep compressor to it with a fabbed adapter, you would need to extend and/or bend lines but it could save you from having to buy another compressor
Now that is what I call scheming! I will have to do measuring to see how that pans out, I believe the right side of the block is actually less roomy than the left side. Anyway I cut it, the AC lines WILL be moving and I don't believe the stock Jeep lines will be very happy about that.







So that being said, is there a minimum "gap" or tolerance that I should leave between accessories when building bracketry? I know nothing *should* move, but how tight can I pack things against the block and against other engine components?
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Old July 29th, 2016, 15:05   #13
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i have a spare BHW ac bracket if you need it
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Old July 30th, 2016, 10:30   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbote View Post
i have a spare BHW ac bracket if you need it
On that train of thought, I found a Sanden direct mount that had a similar head and the same length pulley, it totaled out to 227.46mm from front groove to rear of head. I have 215mm to work with on the right side of the block, so if I do decide to work on that side I have more room but there isn't enough room for the Cherokee compressor. That was a good idea though!

Here's my plan.


I ran this past my friend who makes custom parts, he thought this would do what I need. I only have to worry about the clearance to the motor mount, but that should never move once everything is bolted up, and I can remove up to 3mm of material from the motor mount.
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Old August 1st, 2016, 23:22   #15
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The united postal smashers brought me a handful of goodies today, my 98-2001 Dodge Cummins fuel pump module and a LuK Jeep clutch.

Unexpectedly, the truck fuel pump is too tall.



Atleast its too tall and not to short, to fix this problem, you trim the guide tubes, flair to fit, and cut the springs. In other good news, it has an aux fuel port for my Webasto built in, I only have to plumb it up.






Plumbing should be easy, the supply is 3/8 quick connect and the return is 5/16 quick connect. The four pin plug for fuel level/pump power will require a junkyard trip.
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