Loads of Questions and Help Needed

Hello
I have recently purchased a 2004 Automatic Passat Wagon. I am new to VW but not at all new to diesels. My last build dyno'd 715/1375 on SVO (straight vegetable oil). The Passat has many issues that I plan on addressing in December. Have some questions that I am hoping you fine folks can assist me with. It has within past 20k miles timing belt service, turbo, fuel pump, and misc other things.
How do I tell if b5 or b5.5 and what does that mean?
BHW BEH? I am assuming those are engine codes how do I tell what I have?
Have a ton of codes:
P0243
P2100
P2102
P0730
P2100
P2102
Any suggestions?
I am ordering from RockAuto:
Serpentine Belt Tensioner
Fan Clutch
Fan
Heater Fan
Heater Fan Resistor
Air Filters (cabin and engine)
Wipers
Steering Pump
Wipers
I need engine mounts and rear spring perch. Any recommendations for sourcing those?
I plan on doing some selective maintenance including most of the following:
best exhaust gas removal kit?
best tuning after removal?
best shock/strut kit?
best brake kit (needs rear, I'll replace front at same time)?
best exhaust kit with downpipe?
best cold air intake?
any recommendation for new headlight assemblies?
any recommendation for led to replace all of the lights in Passat (interior and exterior if the assemblies don't come with bulbs)?
anyone use an air suspension kit?
I am open to any suggestions to complete performance enhancements and maintenance while I have it up on the lift.
Sam

Before you invest all the money and time from your questions above, you need to confirm if the balance shaft module has been replaced or deleted. If you fix/update all the other stuff first you may wind up with yard ornament that looks nice but can't move.

If you are used to Golf/Jettas and what you do to them, please note you are in a different sand box. What works well for them, not so much for the Passat.

Last word of advice. If you are going to perform the upgrades above, address the automatic transmission and possibly the balance shaft issue, you will be better off purchasing a well sorted Passat TDI, with all those issues already addressed. You will have nearly that much invested in parts with what you want to do and what you will have to do, in order to get it on the road and reliable.

Just my 0.02

Oh and it is a B5.5

Agree with above. Really it is a great car just as it left the factory once the balance shaft drive is addressed.

The only mods I have ever done to mine:

DRLs turned off and a proper normal rest of the world headlight switch.

Newer glow plugs.

Rocketchip 1 tune.

Balance shaft gear drive update.

Billy HD struts/shocks.

Updated alternator pulley.

Upgraded H7 battery.

TCM recode to Sport mode.

That's it. Runs drives great, always has. Oil change/tire rotation every 10k, fuel and cabin filters every 20k, air filter every 40k, ATF flush every 60k, timing belt every 100k.

Thank you for the replies, much appreciated.

@QuicktTD I'll check all the fuses and alternator pulley tonight. Would be nice if that resolves those issues. Dealership (for previous owner) diagnosed the steering whine as tensioner because it was bouncing at hard turning. Exactly as you described QuickTD (without having the symptoms).
Regarding Vendors is there a place to find them or post what I am looking for to have them respond? I found this tdivendors but it appears to have last been updated January 2003.
I am wanting the car running right but do plan on expanding the hp beyond stock. I purchased this one specifically because I can get my aging dog in and out easily with the kids. But don't want to worry about merging in traffic if I have the get up and go. I do expect a turbo, injector, engine build, and tranny in the future. While I am doing some of the small things, I want to make sure I get the parts that I can reuse. That is the thought behind some of my questions (i.e. downpipe, intake, etc). The headlight question is based on oxidation interior to the factory headlights. Figured I'd update the look since I need new ones anyways. Also on the LEDs, has no one made LEDs with resistors or replacement relays for VW? The light output is worth it, in my opinion.

@vwztips - good info. Any way to check to see if the BSM is updated in the vehicle? I have plenty of lawn ornaments - don't need to add to the collection. Link to a discussion would be awesome. I did a forum search for balance shaft update and couldn't locate anything that walked through how to check other than a reference to maintenance records (which I don't see it in the past 10 years of what I have) and dropping the pan. But nothing that says what to look for when the pan is down. I also checked the FAQ and didn't see anything there either.

@oilhammer - No knock on the vehicle or that it isn't suited for most from the factory. I just would like a bit more out of it once I get it running right. Is the updated alternator pulley you reference just a new style sold by VW, aftermarket, or simply standard one that replaced a failed one? I am assuming Billy is Bilstein?

Sam

Just curious, have you driven a properly running Passat TDI?

Big difference between a stock Passat (245-250 ft/lbs) and stock Jetta/Golf (170-180 ft/lbs)

Putting a stage 1 tune with automatic or stage 2 with manual is a very satisfying and competent car, and yes it will get up and go with no issues.

As for the BSM, some people can tell by just listening. The sure fire way is to either pull the pan (requires lowering the subframe) or remove the timing belt, lower pulley and aluminum cover (no need to drop subframe).

My preferred vendors are Cascade German or Idparts but there are other good vendors as well.

Where are you located?

Another note... I completely missed the sticky's at the top of this forum. So I have now read the BSM replacement and the 32 page pdf. Is there something similar for the delete option?

Also read the alternator pulley how to for that info.

I am in Colorado. No, not sure I have driven a properly functioning TDI yet - but will before January. My commuter car currently is a ~600hp f350 (6.4L). Before that was the ~700hp (7.3L Powerstroke) vegetable oil powered f350.

Sam

For the BSM delete, search for a thread written by Whitebread.

Typically my experience has been a 2 MPG increase with the delete and better throttle response.

PD motors do not do well with vegetable oil

Thank you again.

For anyone else: BSM Delete Thread

Sam

I suggest first to take care of the transmission issue. Either fix, replace the automatic or swap it with manual and then worry about the other smaller stuff.

imo000 said:

I suggest first to take care of the transmission issue. Either fix, replace the automatic or swap it with manual and then worry about the other smaller stuff.

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Speaking of... Anyone replaced the solenoid or valvebody? I see on ebay a seller selling a solenoid pack for ~$300. Car drives normal 95% of the time. Manual is not an option.

Anyone have a recommendation for a tranny builder for the VW to handle some extra power?

Sam

If the transmission is starting to slip then the issue is mechanical deep inside the transmission. Properly rebuilt automatics are expensive for there cars and the options are very limited (VW dealer or ZF). Do some reading and you'll see why getting a rebuild from a transmission shop isn't something you want to do if you are planning to keep the car for a long time.

The slush box is the 2nd most common failure on these cars behind the balance shaft.

If the transmission wasn't serviced regularly since new she is on borrowed time. Oilhammer gives his autos treatment many children won't even get at Christmas.

I think a new transmission with converter is in the 3300 3500 price range. If the car is very nice it's worth it. It's double the mpg of my 7.3

LL-Slayer said:

Speaking of... Anyone replaced the solenoid or valvebody? I see on ebay a seller selling a solenoid pack for ~$300. Car drives normal 95% of the time. Manual is not an option.

Anyone have a recommendation for a tranny builder for the VW to handle some extra power?

Sam

Click to expand...

What's the problem with the transmission? Also where are you located? Eriksson is Old Saybrook Ct http://www.erikssonindustries.com/ is a well recommended ZF rebuild shop and authorized zf distributor. I would not buy solenoids off of ebay. I may replace my valve body. I have a hard downshift from 5th to 4th. But my Passat is currently off the road for a different, but perhaps related reason.

PickleRick said:

If the transmission wasn't serviced regularly since new she is on borrowed time. Oilhammer gives his autos treatment many children won't even get at Christmas.

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I just do what ZF says to, nothing more. *shrug*

ANY slushbox is a liability. Trust me, we get them drug in here all the time. Today's victim is a Ford Transit. Yesterday was a GMC G3500.

Some are more reliable than others

The th400/th350 would take hundreds of thousands of miles of abuse and neglect. I had one rebuilt in the late 90s, less than 700 bucks with parts, labor, shift kit and new b&m converter.

The Chrysler mini vans of the 90s were well known for a short life span.

I know of a few 700r4 transmissions in f bodies that went from 300 to 500k before the motors gave out. Not a tranny with a great reputation but id be willing to bet the last 200k or so of their lives they never had a fluid change.

While there are a few exceptions, all autos fail one way or another, conversely with a few exceptions all manuals last an extremely long time. So to answer your question “what’s wrong with the auto” it’s an auto.

Tdijarhead said:

While there are a few exceptions, all autos fail one way or another, conversely with a few exceptions all manuals last an extremely long time. So to answer your question “what’s wrong with the auto” it’s an auto.

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Nothing in your statement is factually correct. And more importantly, none of it relates to my questions or helping with my VW.

I'd appreciate if you can take your manual versus auto debate elsewhere.

Sam

vwztips said:

PD motors do not do well with vegetable oil

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No modern diesel works well with vegetable oil unless the oil is heated sufficiently and the fuel system converted properly.

imo000 said:

If the transmission is starting to slip then the issue is mechanical deep inside the transmission. Properly rebuilt automatics are expensive for there cars and the options are very limited (VW dealer or ZF). Do some reading and you'll see why getting a rebuild from a transmission shop isn't something you want to do if you are planning to keep the car for a long time.

Click to expand...

Only thing is intermittent hard shifting.

johnboy00 said:

What's the problem with the transmission? Also where are you located? Eriksson is Old Saybrook Ct http://www.erikssonindustries.com/ is a well recommended ZF rebuild shop and authorized zf distributor. I would not buy solenoids off of ebay. I may replace my valve body. I have a hard downshift from 5th to 4th. But my Passat is currently off the road for a different, but perhaps related reason.

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Mine is intermittent hard shifting. I am in Colorado.

I have to have an automatic so looking for a good builder.

Sam

QuickTD said:

Most of the codes suggest a blown fuse in the ECM box at the base of the windshield on the drivers side. This fuse feeds most of the engine electrics. Which fuse specifically? Fuse 17 was blown but all I can figure out is that there is a picture of a compass on the fuse card. I now have a different issue related. The contacts in the 17 position seem to be pushed in and so the replacement fuse isn't making contact.

Prior to buying all that accessory/serpentine belt/power steering stuff, make sure the alternator pulley one way clutch is working properly. If it is seized solid, you will get belt squeal when turning and the tensioner will bounce like crazy. How can I test the one way clutch? The pulley is spinning. The tensions is "bouncing" at idle without moving steering wheel. Moves more with steering wheel movement.


Shock firmness is such a matter of personal preference I cannot begin to offer a guess. I am looking for a smooth ride. My other vehicles offer a firm ride. This is a grocery getter that I don't want to rattle my teeth out.
Same. I like zimmermann rotors and Brembo, PBR or textar pads.

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Had a few minutes to look at a few things this weekend.

Sam

PickleRick said:

Some are more reliable than others

The th400/th350 would take hundreds of thousands of miles of abuse and neglect. I had one rebuilt in the late 90s, less than 700 bucks with parts, labor, shift kit and new b&m converter.

Click to expand...

Boy that has not been my experience in the field, LOL.... not even close. My first job in the automotive business was a helper at a transmission shop. The GM slushboxes, specifically the TH350 and later the 700R4 (which was revamped and renamed the 4L60E later on) were some of the most common tow ins for us. Those things essentially paid the bills until the ChryCo 41TE and Ford AXOD came along... but the 4L60E still even to this day is a VERY common one to die. We STILL do a crap load of those in our shop.

Good news with the old RWD stuff is that they were relatively simple and easy to R&R, and fairly cheap to overhaul. The R&R guy I worked with in the '80s could have a G or B body or C truck or G van transmission out inside of 30 minutes. The rebuilder could have one torn apart on the bench in 20. We could push some GM bomb in the building first thing in the morning and drive it out of the shop under its own power before lunch.

To the OP: the ZF 5HP19A is as "strong" as it could ever be. It is the same transmission behind twin turbo V6s in Allroads and S4s. However, in stark contrast to what ZF says, to change the ATF every 100k km (about 60k miles), VAG says "lifetime" so that leads to a question of "whose lifetime?" and it often gets answered abruptly and without warning. If the fluid gets serviced properly, they seem to hold up just fine, probably not as good as a RWD Aisin transmission, but better than a lot of other stuff out there. The weak spot, and there is a TSB about this, is the torque converter, which has a seal that can leak internally and cause them to slip when they should be locked up. This problem is manifested usually with just the MIL on, and many driver's won't even notice that it is no longer locking up. Does not require replacing or rebuilding the whole unit, just a new converter.

In your case, it doesn't sound at all like this is your problem. If I were you, I'd start by a thorough change of the ATF and a new filter. If you do not have a method to flush it (we use a machine attached to the cooler pipes here), then do a drain and fill several times with a new filter and new pan gasket on the last time. See if that improves anything.

Alternator clutch pulley is easily checked by (with the engine OFF) sticking a small screwdriver in the alternator housing and turning the internal cooling fan the direction of rotation (clockwise). It should move. If it does not, the pulley is seized. From your description, it is almost certainly the case.

I agree with what OH says although I've seen a lot of Aisin Warner transmissions with worn valve bodies. Relatively lower miles and will cause shifts that will chip your teeth if your not ready for it. Most people don't service there trans ever and regular service would extend there life as well as not beating the hell out of them. I have a 92 GMC with the last gen of the non electric 4L60. I've done regular service with quality filters and fluid and use the truck since new for nothing but towing, plowing snow and it's only got 100K but has been worked since new and it shifts like it did the day I brought it home new

We see LOTS of Aisin valve bodies, too, but that is a more recent thing, relatively speaking. Never saw anything like that in the '80s and '90s. Seems like it started when Aisin starting supplying transmissions to a lot more brands beyond Toyota. Middle 2000s.

oilhammer said:

We see LOTS of Aisin valve bodies, too, but that is a more recent thing, relatively speaking. Never saw anything like that in the '80s and '90s. Seems like it started when Aisin starting supplying transmissions to a lot more brands beyond Toyota. Middle 2000s.

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True, seems to have started with the AW-55-50sn's used in Maxima's and some Volvo's etc. ZF now manufactures transmissions in US, have seen them in some Chrysler and Hyunda's. and the casting's are rough compared to the German built ones

And ZF doesn't even DO their own castings in Germany. Martinrea-Honsel does, same ones that do MB transmission case castings. They have plants in Germany, Brazil, China, Spain, and Mexico. They do other things too, like cast aluminum suspension parts, subframes, engine blocks, body components, as well as a bunch of home consumer product components like kitchen appliance parts.