Need advice on Engine removal

Im replacing engine in my 2004 beetle 1.9 BEW auto trans, taken the front clip off, removed all connections and hoses, should I discharge AC and remove PS hoses or will engine and trans fish around them

I always evacuate the system as well as remove the PS lines from the pump because it makes it easier for me. You *can* pull the lock carrier forward enough, remove the PS pump and compressor and leave them "hang" and pull them sort of out of the way if you are dropping the eng/trans straight down, but you will be fighting it the whole time.

Normally I take the entire lock carrier assembly completely off the car and set it to the side. Problem on the NBs is the A/C line that goes up so close to the engine. They just do not have much flex to them, and you can damage a line if it gets kinked.

Thanks,
Thats what I thought. The PS line that S's in front of trans do I need to remove that completely or will it flex out of the way?
another question the electrical connecton on the transmission does it twist off like the injector conection. I dont want to break it

I take that line loose at the pump, then swing it over and out of the way, usually with a bungee cord or similar over across where the battery area is.

The DSG's connector comes off with a quarter turn, yes. But it does NOT have the little red tang to pull out first like the injector harness connector does. You just give it a twist.

Also remember that there is a "hidden" bellhouse bolt under the starter motor mounting, accessible after the starter is removed.

Thanks so much, Im having to do this as I can, wish I could spend 2 or 3 solid days but work wont allow so I will more thn likely need more advice

No problem, I'm not going anywhere.

Success at removing engine and trans biggest problem was headlights

Also Dogbone bolt that goes into trans sheared off. has this happened to anyone and what is the best way to fix?
I uploaded photos to flash52 album,How do I get them to show up in post
Thanks

Yeah, the headlights can be a pain. When they are new, and nobody has ever monkeyed with them, they are not *too* terribly bad. The later 2006+ ones are a little easier.

You may be able to drill a hole straight up the middle of the broken bolt and get an extractor in there, tough to say without seeing it up close.

flash52 said:

..................................................
I uploaded photos to flash52 album,How do I get them to show up in post
Thanks

Click to expand...

Harvest the url and post it here or use pics.tdiclub.com to do the same.

Ok figured out photos

going to start swapping out parts from old to replacement this weekend, when I get to the trans. as I said timing belt is wrapped around pully I dont want to unbolt trans and separate until I can get torque converter bolts out trying to keep all fluid intact. thinking I will start at top and take cam out first and see if crank will turn. Is this the best way to start

[/IMG] [/IMG]

flash52 said:

Ok figured out photos ............................................ thinking I will start at top and take cam out first and see if crank will turn. Is this the best way to start

Click to expand...

To start the swap or are we evaluating this engine?
Some sort of engine stand, impact gun, 1/2" or even 3/4"

[/IMG] This is the replacement engine that I will be putting accs ect from original engine

Ugh.... I see paint marks....

Don’t understand I put it in tdc using special tools also marked sprocket then put new cam belt, water pump and idler also used the method rotating cam 90 degrees so didn’t have to remove dual pump what did I do wrong

I used to think paint marks were a sign of not doing TB changes right until I found with my poor eyes, paint marks help me check and double check nothing slips when putting it all together. Sometimes the belt wants to slip a tooth when the belt is tightened up and I find it easier to see if something goes wrong. But, most of my TB changes are on the ALH engines.

tgray said:

I used to think paint marks were a sign of not doing TB changes right until I found with my poor eyes, paint marks help me check and double check nothing slips when putting it all together. Sometimes the belt wants to slip a tooth when the belt is tightened up and I find it easier to see if something goes wrong. But, most of my TB changes are on the ALH engines.

Click to expand...

You should not be having this situation when tightening the tensioner. The cam and IP sprockets should be free to move as you tension the belt.

Paint marks may actually confuse. Final step is critical, rotate engine a couple times, check 3 points, then hook up the VCDS device.

Hi again guys I have a small business so finally got a day to start moving stuff over to replacement engine Think I found out what caused the belt to fail, water pump must have froze has anyone seen this happen

Also I separated the engine and tranny, but when I removed the dog bone mount the bolt that goes in trans broke off flush, can I tilt the tranny on its side while on table or will tilting it do damage. Its a DSG

Ok finally got the replacement engine installed
new turbo


new timing belt kit, including water pump ect

new cam and lifters
pd150 intake

plugged vacumm lines that went to egr
changed out dual pump

I installed engine, decided to do a test start,so plugged in all plugs and vacumn lines to engine and trans put long water hose from inlet to outlet.

cycled ign.until fuel came out of return line new oil filter and oil

turned engine over without glow plugs in to get oil pumping and fuel to injectors
moment of truth, after about 5 tries it started trying to start finally it started. I shut it down after about 10 secs to check oil and ps fluid level all was good

went to start again and shut down immediatly after about 5 tries battery was down

charged battery overnight and tried again. same started then died. read that low battery would kick in immobilezer so touched cables together for 15 secs and held brake down as per immobilezer reset

didnt get a chance to install run all new battery for 4 days
Got battery installed it started first crank let it run for a few then shut down did that a couple more times then it started immedietly dying again checked dash for immobilezer light and it went off before i cranked

all help would be appreciated Here is my scan


Sunday,03,February,2019,11:34:23:60489
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x64
VCDS Version: 18.9.1.0 (x64)
Data version: 20190114 DS296.0
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: License Plate:


Chassis Type: 1C (1C - VW New Beetle (1998 > 2010))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 25 29 35 37 39 46 54 56 65 75

VIN: Mileage: 346000km-214994miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-016-BEW.lbl
Part No SW: 038 997 016 M HW: 028 101 114 7
Component: R4 1,9L EDC G000DG 2878
Revision: 12345678 Serial number: VWZ5Z0CD182110
Coding: 0150038
Shop #: WSC 26093 444 53667
VCID: 28412FBA981F520AB5-515A

4 Faults Found:
16791 - EGR Sensor 2
P0407 - 000 - Signal too Low
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Lambda: -2.5 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 1000.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str
Bin. Bits: 00000000

19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157)
P3102 - 000 - No Signal
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.62 V
Bin. Bits: 00001100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 110.0 Nm

19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157)
P3101 - 000 - Open or Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.54 V
Bin. Bits: 00001100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 110.0 Nm

16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 000 - Signal too Low
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 168 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Duty Cycle: 100.6 %
Bin. Bits: 00001100
Mass Air / Rev.: 1000.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str

Readiness: 1 4 0 1 1

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 02E-927-770.clb
Part No SW: 02E 300 041 S HW: 02E 927 770 AD
Component: GSG DSG 082 0806
Revision: 05308020 Serial number: 00001105231793
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 04940 551 00000
VCID: 22553D92FE23B85AEB-515A

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.lbl
Part No: 1C0 907 379 K
Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103
Coding: 0018945
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3275CDD2AEC328DA1B-51D0

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1T0-909-605.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 AG
Component: 01 AIRBAG VW71 0710
Coding: 0012337
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 7CE923EA3C072EAA81-515A

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C0 959 339
Component: BF-Gewichtsens. 004 0004

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1C0-920-x4x.lbl
Part No: 1C0 920 951 M
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 V02
Coding: 01234
Shop #: WSC 20112
VCID: 2B4BD0B6D9E9791258-4B64
VWZ5Z0CD182110

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN V022
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 70F107DA304F5ACA2D-4B00

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1C0 959 799 G
Component: 2K Komfortgerát HLO 0004
Coding: 00065
Shop #: WSC 26085
VCID: 3B6BE0F62989E992C8-4B00

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1C2959802A
Component: 2K Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0202

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1C2959801A
Component: 2K Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0202

8 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
01044 - Control Module Incorrectly Coded
35-00 - -
00912 - Window Regulator Switch; Front Left (E40)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
37-00 - Faulty
01359 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Passenger Side (E198)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
37-00 - Faulty

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 1J0-035-18x-56.lbl
Part No: 1C0 035 196 H
Component: RADIO DE2 0004
Coding: 06031
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 24593B8AB437B66A99-51D0

2 Faults Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
00-10 - - - Intermittent
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
07-00 - Signal too Low

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 03:56)--------------------------

You don't have any shutdown codes for the immobilizer. I know if the car battery gets low enough the immobilizer won't work right. Try clearing all codes on a fully charged battery, then try starting again.

WHOO HOO success
I went ahead and connected radiator and fans and maf and it started , let it run for 30mins looked at vcds and all functions were in green shut off and restarted 10 times so far. glad I just hung everthing noticed oir filter housing was seeping, everything else looks good