clutch bleed 1Z/ CTN

Topped up all the fluids, DOT4, coolant, hydraulic, and getting ready to start the engine for the first time. I have pressure on my brake pedal, but my clutch pedal just drops straight to the firewall. Anyone who can explain to me how to bleed it?

especially where the bleed valve is located.

Reverse bleed it. Air likes to go up, so get an oil can, spray bottle, whatever and pump fluid into the bleeder. It’ll take you less than a minute.

-Todd

about 6-8" away from the shiftier tower. Right on top of the trans! usually has a black cap on it, looks exactly like the bleed screw on your breaks.

Found it 2nd nipple on the slave cylinder.

Alternative technique.

Remove slave cylinder from transmission. Do not disconnect the hose. Make sure the pedal is UP.

Compress slave cylinder pushrod fully, let it expand and repeat several times.

This pushes air up and out, pulls in fluid.

Good luck.

Gary

easiest way is with a helper, like the brakes, he has to press pedal, you do your thing at bleeder, he has to reach down to floor and pull pedal back(obv.-repeat).

your on the right track, getting places, let us know,,when she goes,!

iluvmydiesels said:

easiest way is with a helper, like the brakes, he has to press pedal, you do your thing at bleeder, he has to reach down to floor and pull pedal back(obv.-repeat).
your on the right track, getting places, let us know,,when she goes,!

Click to expand...

Respectfully disagree, its not the same as brakes. But if it works for you, cool.

^??,
who made a wrong post? whats there to get riled up about?

CrazyQuantumMan said:

Nope. Easiest way is simply to connect one end of a hose to the driver front caliper bleeder, the other end to the slave cylinder bleeder, and pump your brake pedal. Creates a closed-loop bleed. Super simple! No need to touch the clutch pedal.

Click to expand...

Basically reverse bleeding it, but I like this.

-Todd

some creative ways to do this. heheh. interesting with what we come up with.

It can be bled traditionally with a helper, as long as the helper pulls the pedal back up each time, and there is minimal waiting between down and up cycles.

reverse bleeding works well. I use a turkey baster syringe connected to the slave bleeder - very quick that way.

^isnt that what i said, with a helper, just bleed it
i dont know the prob with it. or why it seems any different(from doing brakes)

GCBUG00 said:

its not the same as brakes.

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its just like it, only pedal is different. uses same circuit, bleed brakes, finish by bleeding clutch. no prob, dont know the problem that you feel theres a difference.
my fav, like i posted a few times, for all brakes, with a baster, like windex says a turkey baster, get all fluid out of brake reservoir, fill with fresh fluid, proceed to bleed brakes, check fluid, etc, finish with bleed clutch. easy-peasy, no prob. swaps in fresh fluid, just like that. looks like i gotta do one, this week. takes just a few mins. take u-r time and do it.

CrazyQuantumMan said:

Nope. Easiest way is simply to connect one end of a hose to the driver front caliper bleeder, the other end to the slave cylinder bleeder, and pump your brake pedal. Creates a closed-loop bleed. Super simple! No need to touch the clutch pedal.

Click to expand...

This is brilliant.

Side note, though, since it wasn't specifically pointed out, but once you connect the hose from one bleeder to the other, make sure to open BOTH bleeders.

I decided to follow the normal way to bleed as it stands in a very confined space this week and I can't access the front caliper. I also didn't want to unbolt the slave cylinder. But Definitely gonna remember the genius ways described here for next time I need to do this. Some great mechanics here

iluvmydiesels said:

^isnt that what i said, with a helper, just bleed it
i dont know the prob with it. or why it seems any different(from doing brakes)
its just like it, only pedal is different. uses same circuit, bleed brakes, finish by bleeding clutch. no prob, dont know the problem that you feel theres a difference.

Click to expand...

The brake MC can feed two wheels at a time. Pretty sure most guys with old school brakes not ABS assisted computer bleeding etc. will try to pump up a brake MC and then call for opening the bleed screw. Pedal is then pushed to the floor, a flushing action starts, air + fluid goes out, process repeats, getting better and better. But remember brake pedal started above floor and pistons at wheel are against a fixed immovable object.

Clutch master only feeds ONE cylinder, smaller total volume. If you hold a working clutch pedal to the floor and then open the bleed screw the only contributor to flushing is the slave cylinder. And it only pushes back any energy stored in the diaphragm spring from the attempt at releasing the clutch, not much. A job it does not do too well. You're asking the bubble to be in the right place the bottom of the circuit and the lowly slave cyl to get rid of the air.

This master cyl is a piston port design and would cooperate with the push back technique.

That takes advantage of air doing a natural thing, it rises in a fluid.

This push back does not work on many domestic applications due to a different master cylinder design, the tappet valve type. It creates an air trap and holds on to it for dear life, AKA the Ford Ranger.

Only offering a technique that works for the design of this master and slave cylinder design.

I guess we'll skip discussing the open bleed screw bleeding technique that also work on this setup.

Just hope lisab4 got it done w/o too much grief.

Gary

I already had brake pressure. I have clutch pedal pressure now, and no more air from the slave bleed screw, so I presume I am done?

You'll know when you drive the car. The clutch should release and engage near the top third of travel.

If it does that with no mushiness in the pedal, then you are done.

looks like shes doing fine.

GCBUG,gary, your getting way too technical(here), i realize in operation the two circuits are different(and separate). what i was saying is. for instance the example i gave, and has been recently asked(on a separate post). to swap fluid, use baster, bleed each corner(brakes, obv.), etc,etc, after, just bleed clutch, you just open bleeder, and like brakes, if you have a helper he does pedal and you are at the bleeder. easy-peasy. no probs.

iluvmydiesels said:

GCBUG,gary, your getting way too technical(here),

Click to expand...

I thought that was the purpose of a specific topic on a forum like this.

You lumped the clutch system with the brake system.

They share a common reservoir and fluid type and the action of taking leverage and creating hydraulic pressure. Nothing else.

I'm comfortable with my methods and suggestions that are specific to the OP's components.