P0401 - cracked DPF long term damage?

imart said:

i see the topic and want to share my experience
living in europe and have 2.0 tdi CR in skoda yeti, 2011. 110 PS i am thinking have cracked dpf..
little soot on exhaust pipe and error

P0401 00 [101] - Insufficient Flow
Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

and details

Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 190807 km
Date: 2018.10.08
Time: 10:56:37

Engine speed: 2237.50 /min
Normed load value: 41.6 %
Vehicle speed: 51 km/h
Coolant temperature: 79 °C
Intake air temperature: 27 °C
Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.980 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Throttle valve adapter: specified value: 34.66 %
EGR Solen.val.: actual value: 15.83 %
Charge air pressure specified value: 1294 hPa
Charge Pressure Actuator: acknowledgment: 71.25 %
Air mass: specified value: 312.2 mg/stroke
Air mass: actual value (mg/stroke): 446.3 mg/stroke

i clear error with some diagnostic app like torque and go on..
once i had MIL on, but after cleaning code it disappears..
i think after 5 or some like that errors, mil shows up..
i delete it and driving on.. regens are regularly.. it is temporary solve, because i am going to replace or remove DPF from system..

so, nothing wrong can be done with this state? can drive 2 months more with this issue?

i have no money now for replacement dpf so i will remove and delete it from software..

it means that egr valve is okay? it can stay on engine and not replaced?
or should i replace both, EGR and DPF?

thanks.

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apeniel09 said:

I know this is an older thread but I'm having similar issues regarding the DPF and EGR for my 2012 Jetta TDI M/T and hoping for some help!

Be forewarned I am not a mechanic (female) and I know I need to take it to one but I was hoping to get some idea of what I'm up against before I do. I learned the hard way that this was the wrong choice of car for me well after regrettably purchasing it and I owe wildly more than I should so I'm unfortunately stuck with it, but really hoping it doesn't need a new engine!

Back in november '23 I was driving home from work when I noticed a hesitation when accelerating at times. It was almost hard to notice it, but enough to feel that something wasn't right so I turned the radio down to pay closer attention and I heard what I can only describe as a slapping/flapping noise coming from the front end. I was only a few minutes from home so instead of pulling over to check it out I decided to just wait until I got home. There was no difference when shifting gears but the noise was quieter with speed/higher gears and louder at lower speeds/gears, same. We have a long sloping driveway so when I pulled in I put it in neutral and coasted down but the noise was still there and louder. By the time I parked and popped the hood the was shaking so bad and so loud my husband could hear it from inside the house, I thought my engine was going to explode. I had a mechanic friend come listen and it almost wouldn't start but after very briefly listening he thinks it sounds like a rod knock. I tried to start it once more after that and it almost started but wouldn't. I haven't tried to jump it or do anything else with it so it's just been sitting there for the last 4 months because I don't want to face the fact that it might need a new engine but I'm trying to rule out other things first.

Some things to mention:
-118k miles
-Check engine light is on with:
P0401 -EGR 'A' flow insufficient detected
P2015 - Intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit range/performance bank 1
P2008 - Intake manifold runner control circuit/open bank 1
P2BA6 - NOx exceedence - SCR NOx catalyst performance
P240F - EGR Slow response
P2002 - particulate filter efficiency below threshold bank 1
-DPF filter light is also on
-New clutch kit installed in March '23

I don't think it's a rod knock only for the fact that the noise got quieter not louder with speed.
I don't think it's timing related because it didn't leave me stranded on the side of the road.
It sounds very sismilar to a failing DMF but I'm thinking it's not that because it was replaced recently. (I'm also not even sure if my car has a DMF or single).

I'm not sure what other information to include that might be helpful but I appreciate any feedback

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