2001 ALH into 2001 Ford Ranger Edge

Started another project this week. 2001 Ford Ranger Edge

- 258.000 km on the odometer
- Edge = same suspension as the 4x4, only it's a 2WD
- 3.0L V6
- 5 speed manual transmission
- Power Steering
- No air conditioning

It will be receiving a 2001 ALH via one of Randy's adapter plate / mount kits sold at: http://www.tdconversions.com/



One of the goals of this project is to have a off-the-shelf ALH and BEW harness for the Ford Ranger ready for retail this fall. This is also documenting the fitment for ALH as Randy's current project is using a BEW.

This is my first time working on a Ford. All I have to say is it quite complicated for me as half the truck in imperial measurement and the other half if metric and EVERYTHING seems to be torqued by elephants as I bent two wrenches removing bell housing bolts.



Volkswagen seems to be a much easier vehicle to remove the engine from as with the Ford you have to take apart half the engine just to remove the wire harness intact and there are no anchor points for the hoist chains - common thread it to use the exhaust manifolds. Everything just seems a little more complicated than it should be - rant over I guess!

So... I'll spare everyone the details on how to remove a Ford Ranger engine. It comes out after some effort and there is a big hole where a TDI engine will go.

The rest of this thread will show the details and issues of installing the ALH engine in this "quick n dirty" swap!

AC is an issue

First off - if your Ranger is equipped with Air Conditioning (mine isn't) then the ALH is going to pose some issues as the AC compressor will interfere with the frame mount on the Ranger.

One solution is to use the Audi A4 / Passat mounting system for the AC compressor which puts it on the exhaust side of the engine. Unless you have access to these parts - fabricating a system is going to be fun.


AC Compressor will interfere

My solution to keep work to a minium is what I used to do in the Volkswagen Vanagons - most had PS but few in Canada at least had AC

I use a piece of the thick wall 1" square tubing. Drill two M10 holes to align it with the holes that the AC compressor used and then I use a timing belt tensioner and done - same belt as the original setup.





These photos are of the fitting, better fasteners are being used!

Starter clearancing

A nice stout looking starter is employed to turn over the TDI. However it doesn't fit in the original location on the transmission so bellhousing must be cut for it to fit.

A drill, a 2x4, hole saw kit and a die grinder later it was done.



Take your hole saw and find the size that will allow the plunger of the starter to easily fit - drill the 2x4 - then find drill out that section of 2x4 with a hole saw that is the same size as the opening - this will act as your guide.





Next remove more of the wood to be the same size of the neck of the starter and make a small groove - then use the die grinder to reduce that and test fit / run the starter - all should be good!

Subscribed. Looking forward to finishing a few projects and getting started on mine.

Thanks for all the build details.

It's been an interesting couple of days and things that I thought were good turn out not to be so good. We had some minor mount alignment issues and just a series of little things that made progress slow. I've also been a little busy with the fowl that we have too.


Engine is in!


Just ducky!

My fancy bracket for the AC delete doesn't work "as is" in a Ranger - the front control arm is in the way, so I had to rework it and use a shorter 63.5" belt. Same idea as the previous and beside having to use different belt I like this setup better it is more compact. It is a Volkswagen belt though - crosses over to a V6 or VR6


AC elimination attempt two

Also the bracket on the engine that held the AC compressor will have to be cut ever so slightly so that it won't hit the steering rack input. Again sorry for the dirty engine pictures - it is supposed to be a quick and dirty swap! Degreaser and high pressure hose to come!


Minor trim needed

Now I am working on the fuel system. Seems once again Ford does things differently than Volkswagen. The Ranger has the fuel pump in tank and it pushes fuel to a fuel filter that has two outputs, one to the engine and one back to the tank. In the tank is the fuel pressure regulator and hence only one line running to the engine compartment. So today will be spent running two new lines to the front of the truck.

What is this above the spare tire. It is an vapor pump?

What is this?

The other thing I need to get into is the wiring. What is the best source for the engine and dash electronics for the Ranger? Hayens / Chilton or pony up the bucks at the Ford dealer for their manual?

This week I need to get a drive shaft spacer made up - currently the transmission is 35mm further ahead and I could probably do without the spacer, but I think it is a good idea to use one especially if someone decides to lift the truck a little.

The water cooling system should be fairly straight forward. I had to eliminate the coolant glow plugs from the system so they wouldn't interfere with the fire wall. During that I removed the place for the electrical sensors, but will be able to do that in the main pipe going to the rad.

Intercooler should be fairly straight forward as well too.

What have others done for a radiator fan? I am thinking of using a MK4 fan system and a new sheet metal shroud on the OE radiator. The original radiator is so big that perhaps I don't need fans?

Haven't got the engine bonnet on yet, but is the intake manifold going to hit?

The intake on mine has lots of hood clearance so you should be fine.
I found a large fan that just bolted into the stock Ranger fan shroud. It literally fills the whole opening and looks stock.
It says Ford on it but I dont know what its off as it was just in my pile of rad fans.



I installed an inline fuel pump that puts out 14psi.
The stock Ranger one was about 60 PSI.
I found a filter that just has one inlet and that left the other line free to use as a return. I had to snip the return line just before the pressure valve on the pump assembly so it just dumps straight into the tank.

Above the spare tires is the evap canister.

I bought my Ford manual on eBay for $20. Much better than the aftermarket ones IMO.

Did your oilpan tuck behind the steering rack at 35mm?

that little idler bearing will be severely overdriven and may fail prematurely ... you may want to up the size of that pulley significantly

jimbote said:

that little idler bearing will be severely overdriven and may fail prematurely ... you may want to up the size of that pulley significantly

Click to expand...

That pulley is a timing belt idler pulley from a ALH / BEW. Why would it fail any faster there and in it's normal job?

Hasenwerk said:

That pulley is a timing belt idler pulley from a ALH / BEW. Why would it fail any faster there and in it's normal job?

Click to expand...

spinning at least twice as fast

Rockwell said:

spinning at least twice as fast

Click to expand...

and maybe even three times as fast .... the crank serp pulley is massively larger in diameter than the crank timing sprocket .... this equates to much much higher than normal rpm for that poor little timing belt idler

I suppose you guys are right on the pulley - will pull one off a AHU I have sitting here and remeasure the belt.

Thanks.

Did you see my setup on my ranger? Uses the factory belt.

Belt setup V3

Things got fowled up on Monday and Dr appointments on Tuesday, today not much time to work on things either.


Fowled up Monday, ain't she cute!?


OK... peer pressure (thank you) made me do it.


AHU serpentine tensioner pulley and the factory length belt with a spacer used to get it from the bracket. Done!

Heater core has coolant pipes and I played around with radiators and it looks like a MK3 radiator, MK4 fan system and a MK4 intercooler.


Adapters for the cooling hoses. These are compressed with a hydraulic hose fitting compressor and slightly cut down in final use.

Gotta ask; what kind of duck? She's a real beauty.

oil_me said:

Gotta ask; what kind of duck? She's a real beauty.

Click to expand...

I have no idea what lineage went into that duck. I was getting a Maline rooster that wasn't related to my hens and my wife really liked this duck so it came home along with two small Indian Runners.

I'm back from the doctors in Vancouver (wife is still cancer free!) and a mini-holiday to Vancouver Island to see my 91 year old Grandfather.

Fuel tank is finished. Removed the anti-siphon bit on the inside to keep the foam down. I eliminated the vapor pump business at the spare tire and recovered about 7 to 10 liters more fuel capacity from the tank!


The Radiator is now setup - The Jetta III radiator fits like a glove!

Jetta III Radiator. Jetta 4 hoses.

Jetta 4 Intercooler fits below the radiator with room to spare.


I think I am going to have to loose the Ford coolant reservoir and use one from the MK4. I am going to try and see if there is a place to mount it on the driver side of the engine bay so that there isn't hoses running everywhere!

Next comes fuel lines from the rear. What's the best sort of fuel line to run to be compatible with ULSD? I am thinking of using the Ford fuel pump as a lift pump and then install an "H" between the fuel filter and injector pump so that the system won't build up more than a few PSI of pressure. This has worked well for me in the past with my LT and Vanagon conversions. What's the latest on fuel coolers? This has a 10mm pump, large ".240" nozzles and stock turbo - of course being a Malone dealer we'll max it out software wise - does it make sense to install a fuel cooler and if so on the return or input line?

After the fuel lines is the intercooler and air intake system. Fairly staight forward there.

Exhaust system would be next. I'm still thinking a 2.5" system with no cat, no muffler that exits in front of the passenger rear tire.

Electrical would be next - I am still looking for a decent 2001 Ford Ranger wiring diagram that details the instruments, engine and transmission.

Volkswagen Jetta 4 seats with seat heaters is on the "would be nice list"

The Ford logo on the tail gate has been removed and I will be installing Jetta 4 style "RANGER" on the left side and "TDI" on the right side with the VW logo in the middle of the gate. I wonder if Ford and Volkswagen steering wheels have the same hub splines and the instrument pod has the same dimensions as the B5 Audi... hmmm...

I'm so looking forward to not getting 13.0L per 100km any more!

What keeps you from running your mk3 radiator upside down? Would greatly simplify your hose routing with inlet and outlet on the driver's side? Your CAC routing looks like it will be interesting with the outlet pointing straight down. Perfect spot to put an oil drain.

I'm thinking I'm going to do what you're considering and install a vw coolant reservoir on the driver's side somewhere. I think a B5 would be the easiest to package but haven't had time to grab one for a test fit. My motivation is that I don't think I'm properly dearating my cooling system with the way I have my hoses routed.

On your fuel tank mods - did you remove the check valve in the evap port? It wasn't clear to me what you did there. I didn't do this and it takes a LONG time to top off the fuel tank. food for thought.

greengeeker said:

What keeps you from running your mk3 radiator upside down? Would greatly simplify your hose routing with inlet and outlet on the driver's side? Your CAC routing looks like it will be interesting with the outlet pointing straight down. Perfect spot to put an oil drain.

Click to expand...

I suppose there is nothing that would prevent me from running the radiator upside down - other than I didn't know you could do that - I suppose flow is flow. As it is right now the lower mounts are a perfect match. Upside down will require some fabrication of a lower bracket as it will "fall thru" as it isn't quite wide enough. Is this what you did - do you have a photo of how you physically mounted the radiator?

CAC = Cold Air Charging? Was working on that last night - I think it will work out well. Photos to follow.

greengeeker said:

I'm thinking I'm going to do what you're considering and install a vw coolant reservoir on the driver's side somewhere. I think a B5 would be the easiest to package but haven't had time to grab one for a test fit. My motivation is that I don't think I'm properly dearating my cooling system with the way I have my hoses routed.

Click to expand...

I have a B5 reservoir and it's "square" shape will be easier to install. The other issue is installing a windscreen washer reservoir / pump and keeping it all neat. Perhaps the round Jetta 4 will be easier to install and keep things neat - we'll see!

greengeeker said:

On your fuel tank mods - did you remove the check valve in the evap port? It wasn't clear to me what you did there. I didn't do this and it takes a LONG time to top off the fuel tank. food for thought.

Click to expand...

That white port can come out? I blew into and sucked on the hose that went to that port and there seems to be no restriction... I didn't see how that port would come out without breaking things.

Hasenwerk said:

I suppose there is nothing that would prevent me from running the radiator upside down - other than I didn't know you could do that - I suppose flow is flow. As it is right now the lower mounts are a perfect match. Upside down will require some fabrication of a lower bracket as it will "fall thru" as it isn't quite wide enough. Is this what you did - do you have a photo of how you physically mounted the radiator?

Click to expand...

The mk4 ports are on the driver's side so I mounted it rightside up. Come to think of it...the mk3 radiators have the ports on the driver's side as well so it appears you've already mounted it upside down.

Functionally, with these radiators it doesn't matter since there are not dearation ports or functions with this type of radiator. Now if the pressure cap were on the radiator (like the original Ranger radiator) then you don't have an option of mounting it any other way than how the oem installed it.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3889304&postcount=31

Hasenwerk said:

That white port can come out? I blew into and sucked on the hose that went to that port and there seems to be no restriction... I didn't see how that port would come out without breaking things.

Click to expand...

I came to the same conclusion. Blew air in and out and it didn't do anything so I let her buck. I also saw no way of gutting it and ending up with a 'fuel tight' solution so I left it be. There is nothing wrong with going this route - the tank is functional and you gain the additional capacity but the fill time to top it off takes a while.

I think I will call this the positive peer pressure build!

OK - for the record, I had the MK3 radiator in the correct way with the fittings on the passenger side. As luck would have it, I did my yearly recycling in July so this is the only radiator I have. Too me a bit tonight to come up with the simple solution to mount the MK3 rad upside down.

The small mounts on the radiator are exactly 27.0" apart and an M8 bolt fits in there nicely.


M8 bolt / nut combo so it doesn't "bottom" out


Rubber isolated "top" mount.


Installed radiator!

I will fabricate up some brackets that will replace the 14ga copper wire currently holding it in place.

Now to play with hoses again.

After a weekend of doing other things - back to the Ranger.

Tonight I got the charge air system done and intake system done.


Cold side


Hot side and intake


Ground clearance - no issues!

Look what showed up in the mail today!

I am now done with the exception of the exhaust, fuel filter, power steering and electrical system.


Just about done!

Power Steering
First and foremost... who engineers what for Ford? A compression fitting at the power steering rack and after 15 years of winter driving it's stuck in place and broken from rust - of course only the input line is seized in there - the out moves freely! Does anyone have a suggestion on what I should do next?


Broken input line.


What the replacement line looks like.

Lettering
I am happy with lettering I got, basically a copy of the MK4 Volkswagen letters - I just don't like the spacing I had to use for TDI as Ford felt it necessary to put holes in there to attach FORD and this spacing covers the holes - like someone's going to steal the Ford logo!


Ranger TDI

Can you snap some pics of how you mounted your coolant res?

greengeeker said:

Can you snap some pics of how you mounted your coolant res?

Click to expand...

It's a bracket / bottle from a 1991 Jetta Turbo Diesel.





I am going to bend it just a tad to it sits more level.

Progress is being made. The power steering line took a lot of effort to fix, but now that's done and hopefully nothing will leak! Fluids are filled. Fuel lines are now to the front.

What has taken the most time is the wire harness for this project. It is my goal to be able to manufacture these harness for others who are interested in doing the swap. Countless measurements, manufacture a harness jig, figure out what is going on with the Ford side of things and then make the whole harness as simple as possible and reduce as many non-necessary items as possible to make this a simple of an installation as possible.



This harness uses only "Bosch" style relays with incorporated fuses. The failure prone power supply relay is replaced, the expensive Glow Plug relay replaced and a third relay to handle the brake pedal logic is used. The MAF sensor is eliminated, along with the EGR and Anti-Shudder Valve. 3.0bar MAP for more precise turbo control, cruise control wiring, drive by wire accelerator, OE Ford connector, OBD port etc. The ECU doesn't show any DTCs for the "missing" hardware. Power will be the range of 150hp and 260lb.ft with .230 nozzles installed and the stock turbo (for now).

Now to get the fuel system bled and build and exhaust system and we should be good to go for the first test drive!

Nice harness, I'm working on mine right now. It's actually one of my favorite parts of the swap. I did the same thing for the brake logic, simple one wire tapped into the brake light wire controlling a SPDT relay. Where does the main power tap into for the glow plug relay? Is it part of that harness?
I was thinking of running some of that plastic Ford vacuum line from the (AHU) vacuum pump to the N75 valve taped up in my harness (for a cleaner look). Any thoughts on that as a Ford guy? Is that tubing up to the task?
Great build BTW

It's nice to see you offer a drop in harness for the Ranger.
The harness is the hard/scary part for a lot of people and the reason they don't do a swap.
The Ranger harness you built for our Ranger worked great and cut our conversion time by many hrs.

I'm curious what the brake input does?
I did not connect it on our Ranger and the truck runs perfectly.
I just assumed it was for cruise control which our Ranger does not have.