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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old March 10th, 2018, 14:35   #31
Tdijarhead
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We're at the other spectrum of environment... things don't freeze, they melt. The handles on your plier will get so soft they slip off. You spend your working life putting a cardboard box over your tools to prevent them hitting 60c.
Humidity is high, there's no cold to freeze it to the ground, a cold drink ends up in a puddle of condensation in minutes, everyone uses drink "stubby holders".
Electronics start to fail with the humid weather, there's very rarely frost, let alone ice or snow. There are times when mushrooms can grow on the walls of you home, high chance of mold spores and most people have two fridges. Potatoes, vegetables, pretty much everything has to live in the fridge. Except vegemite... lol
Yup the cold is harsh, grew up in Sydney where we get 4 seasons. It's just as expensive in the sub-tropics, if not more, because it takes more energy to cool that it does to heat. Trust me, there's nothing worst that trying to have a nap on the sofa and a bead of sweat trickles down your face and wakes you up. It's cooled a lot, low 20s (deg c) and I feel like a bear only wanting to sleep... it's the things we dont have we seek.
The worst thing about our climate is that humid air screws with your perspiration systems, and you just sweat, not because it's very hot, but because there's no evaporative effect and your body keeps sweating in an attempts to cool it down. Hot days, the cold tap here is 25c... need I say more.
When they say he's gone "troppo" they are referring to a mental illness caused by tropical weather.
BUT.. all that said.. NO SALT on our roads!! BIG BONUS!
I spent a year on Okinawa. I remember getting off the plane, from an air conditioned environment and walking into that high humidity. It felt like someone jumped on my chest, just walking made a person sweat so much you needed to change your clothes.
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Old March 10th, 2018, 16:17   #32
blis
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Vw has an issue with their blend doors. For some reason they made them out of aluminum with lots of holes in them. Then the doors were covered with a foam that deteriorates after a few years and blows out the heat ducts. The heater core still works fine it’s just that the doors don’t direct the warm air into the cabin.

Is that what you’re dealing with? During the summer the ac is rather weak for the same reasons. I have this issue on my daughters 01 Beetle. I just taped up the blend doors with hvac tape.
No, it was a few years ago and coolant leak issue and diagnosed as a heater matrix failure...

I thought I'd have to remove the dash and remove the entire heating module like I did with the MK2. Having access to the heater matrix in this way must have been thought of because of the pain involved in removing it in earlier models. In europe, the older Mk2's didnt have Air con, mine's Japanese spec with AC and it does require a complete removal.

Yes, I too had to re-foam all my heating and vent flaps, the foam they used was terrible and ends up in your teeth. The point being, many people think the heater core is a dash out operation. I'll find out today.

Golf heater core refurbishing.

Last edited by blis; March 10th, 2018 at 16:21.
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Old March 10th, 2018, 18:41   #33
Tdijarhead
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I think all MK4 and onward here in the states are dash out to replace the heater core. You may get lucky but I would be surprised if you were.

The easiest core I ever replaced was on a Ford Aerostar. It was mounted right over the front passangers feet behind a plastic sheild that had 6-8 small screws and 4 or so more holding the core in place, disconnect 2 coolant lines and it was out. Maybe 30 minutes.
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Old March 11th, 2018, 06:15   #34
blis
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I think all MK4 and onward here in the states are dash out to replace the heater core. You may get lucky but I would be surprised if you were.

The easiest core I ever replaced was on a Ford Aerostar. It was mounted right over the front passangers feet behind a plastic sheild that had 6-8 small screws and 4 or so more holding the core in place, disconnect 2 coolant lines and it was out. Maybe 30 minutes.

The matrix pipes are long and run quite low on the firewall and have a join inside the vehicle, so there might be a leak at that point and I might get lucky. The MK2 pipes run high up on he wall, that's definitely a dash out.

didn't do much today, spent most my time sorting out the botch job on the air filter box and chasing up the compressed olive and oil feed, trying to find someone to do the crimp/flare/swage or whatever its called. I think I might call VW are get the whole part. Everyone's telling be it's a "too hard" basket issue.

It's stainless steel too...
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Old March 11th, 2018, 06:53   #35
Tdijarhead
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Don’t you have a vw dealer with an online parts store that sells at a significant discount? Or a company that sells vw aftermarket and oem parts there in your country?

Like these guys here in the US.

Idparts.com

Metalmanparts.com

Cascadegerman.com


I have a turbo line, hard tube oem, that is in good order I removed it from my 05 last fall when my turbo failed. Replacing it with a braided stainless flex line as I said in an earlier post. If you’re interested I’ll see what it would cost to send the hard tube.

Let me get a couple of pics first, that’s not something we need to send to the other side of the world and have it not fit.
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Old March 12th, 2018, 06:04   #36
blis
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Originally Posted by Tdijarhead View Post
Donít you have a vw dealer with an online parts store that sells at a significant discount? Or a company that sells vw aftermarket and oem parts there in your country?

Like these guys here in the US.

Idparts.com

Metalmanparts.com

Cascadegerman.com


I have a turbo line, hard tube oem, that is in good order I removed it from my 05 last fall when my turbo failed. Replacing it with a braided stainless flex line as I said in an earlier post. If youíre interested Iíll see what it would cost to send the hard tube.

Let me get a couple of pics first, thatís not something we need to send to the other side of the world and have it not fit.
Got lucky today, found a hydraulic supplier that worked his magic on the end of the tube for free.. so I dropped off a case of Heiniken

Then the bad news, you're right, the polo's heater matrix is as all others and real pain in the (_!_) to remove.

Other news, picked up the BV39A turbo from supplier, he was priming it with oil and gave me a few tips. Removed the exhaust, impeller and shaft fell out along with a flood of oil, so that's standing up draining with a flush of spray degreaser. Overall a productive day, will take pics tomorrow and begin putting things back
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Old March 12th, 2018, 06:17   #37
blis
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Default Order of operation.. Above and Below

So to conclude my diagnosis for the turbo failure...
  1. Turbo seized for no apparent reason as oil lines were clear. Just failed I suippose (it was second hand)
  2. Exhaust impeller shot into the exhaust, the cold impeller seized in a mash of metal and engine oil pumped out of the turbo into exhaust and pre intercooler pipes.

Conclusion of extraction

Under Car:
  • Disconnected transmission side of drive shaft
  • Disconnected Exhaust
  • Disconnected ducting
  • Disconnect 1 of the EGR flanges
  • Disconnected Oil supply support
  • Disconnected Intake Heat sheild
  • Removed lower and all but two of the top exhaust manifold nuts
  • Removed all Intake manifold nuts
  • Disconnected Oil return flange
  • Disconnected vacuum line

From engine bay
  • Disconnected EGR coolant hoses
  • Disconnected other EGR flange ?
  • Disconnected Vacuum Hosing
  • Disconnect Air Filter ducting
  • Removed Intake Ducting
  • Extracted Intake manifold
  • Disconnect Oil supply Turbo (access from above)
  • Disconnected Oil supply Oil Filter
  • Disconnect final two bolts of Exhaust manifold
  • Extracted Turbo from above

I suppose you can do it all from above or under car, I think both proved to be the wiser move. (I'd have trashed the oil supply connection otherwise.)
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Old March 12th, 2018, 19:28   #38
Tdijarhead
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Wait till you get it all back together and fire it up, you’ll have smoke coming out the exhaust pipe in unbelievable quantities. It took about a 10 mile drive for all the oil in my exhaust to burn off. It’s a good idea to head for an area where there’s not to many people or traffic around.
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Old March 13th, 2018, 01:45   #39
blis
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Originally Posted by Tdijarhead View Post
Wait till you get it all back together and fire it up, youíll have smoke coming out the exhaust pipe in unbelievable quantities. It took about a 10 mile drive for all the oil in my exhaust to burn off. Itís a good idea to head for an area where thereís not to many people or traffic around.
Emptied this a few times now, disconnected exhaust to find the impeller and more oil poured out....



Caboolture Turbo arrived. John at the turbo shop was priming it with oil and gave me a good lesson on the tolerances and importance of the oils. Emphasis on cleaning the oil feed line well before firing up.

Dennis at Hydraulink Pinkeba sorted out my oil supply tube, now to snake it back in place.


Jarhead, you're right... no such luck in an easy heater matrix...



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Old March 13th, 2018, 02:44   #40
Tdijarhead
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Maybe by draining the exhaust you won’t have as much smoke for as long as I did. I didn’t drain mine like you’re doing.

Priming that turbo is important. I think I mentioned that several new turbo threads on this forum have ended in disaster because someone didn’t prime their brand new turbo. So the tips you got from your supplier are a good idea to follow.

Looking good, those heaters are a pain, there’s just no way around it.

I see the underside of your car looks beautifully rust free. I bought my Golf from California in 2012 so when I received it the underside was perfect, now I’m coming to the end of my fifth northern PA winter and it no longer looks like yours does.

Salt sure take a toll on vehicles. You may never have seen an old truck driving down the road with the body all eaten up and parts looking like they’re going to fall off the next time the guy hits a bump.
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Old March 17th, 2018, 06:26   #41
blis
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Fuel Economy: 5L/100Km
Default Install begins.

Turbo primed with lube and ready to be mounted.




Precision Tolerances... Aint no chinese clone.




Onto the car she goes... just finger tightened so I could get under and mount the bottom support.




John from the turbo shop mentioned it doesn't hurt to smear a little copper grease on the metal gaskets to help them bed in. The nut and stud prep earlier made the turbo mounting a single handed breeze. Loosely got the exhaust manifold nuts on by hand without dropping any. Got underneath and loosely tightened the mounting bolt and proceed to merrily tighten the turbo into place

Then....

Lots of cussing, sweating and NOT HAPPY times getting the stainless steel oil supply on... For anyone doing this job, unless you really enjoy pain, buy a braided flexible oil supply line and I'll hold your beer (It'll still be cold when I hand it back) otherwise... Spend over an hour fussing, cussing and high blood pressure with the genuine line. It snakes between, over and under several other coolant pipes, has support brackets that will make you swear and needs two people to do.... nasty nasty... so I got it on and will tighten and set it when I'm in a better mood tomorrow...
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Old March 17th, 2018, 10:44   #42
Tdijarhead
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Yup braided line is the way to go. Every thing is looking good.

Just as a reminder before you start cranking pull the glow plugs and give it a couple of cranks with some rags over those holes. Oil could have leaked down into the cylinders especially #2 and #3, I sure wouldn’t want to see you hydrolock a cylinder because there was to much oil sitting on top of the piston. Can’t wait for you to get this running again.


Did you get the heater done?


Send some of that warm weather to the states, winter is just hanging on up here .
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Old March 18th, 2018, 00:51   #43
blis
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Originally Posted by Tdijarhead View Post
Yup braided line is the way to go. Every thing is looking good.

Just as a reminder before you start cranking pull the glow plugs and give it a couple of cranks with some rags over those holes. Oil could have leaked down into the cylinders especially #2 and #3, I sure wouldnít want to see you hydrolock a cylinder because there was to much oil sitting on top of the piston. Canít wait for you to get this running again.


Did you get the heater done?


Send some of that warm weather to the states, winter is just hanging on up here .

Is there a link on removing the glow plugs...

As for heater matrix.... pain and more pain to come. It was too hot to work on car today.. you're welcome to as much as you want
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Old March 18th, 2018, 02:37   #44
Tdijarhead
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I’m not sure if this is your engine or not, if not go to the tdi wiki at the top of the page and navigate to the correct one.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/gl...cement-on-tdi/

Or the go to glow plug troubleshooting guide.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=483553


And then there’s this, I haven’t read or explored to much over there.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?764935
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Old March 18th, 2018, 14:18   #45
blis
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Originally Posted by Tdijarhead View Post
Iím not sure if this is your engine or not, if not go to the tdi wiki at the top of the page and navigate to the correct one.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/gl...cement-on-tdi/

Or the go to glow plug troubleshooting guide.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=483553


And then thereís this, I havenít read or explored to much over there.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?764935
Aaaah thanks!!!

I get it now and mine are quite easy to access... Remove the connection and remove the plugs with a 10mm deep socket. Sounds easy enough!

I assume they're much like the glow plugs we use on our RC race cars only a little bigger

h
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