And yet another Toyota swap, but M-Tdi.

Yeah an update, it's about damn time.

So I have been busy with a bunch of work and other stuff and of course the personal stuff takes a back seat to the paying work. I have been doing work on this project but most of it really doesn't show. Like fixing a wee bit of rust in one front fender, removing a few broken off rusted stuck bolts, finishing some welding here and there, etc...

I do have a few pictures for you of somewhat interesting work. I welded up the turbo down pipe and found a waste gate to use for my DIY exhaust brake, bent up a pressure signal line to actuate the waste gate. This waste gate is set for 28 psi of back pressure which I am hoping will be enough braking force. If not I will have to add springs to it or figure out how to make it adjustable as it is not an adjustable waste gate.

Down pipe, waste gate, exhaust butterfly. As you can see the waste gate just dumps to the atmosphere, it really shouldn't be very loud as it will only be venting during deceleration. Worst I would think is it will make a hissing or fluttering noise.


Close up of the WG and the stainless pressure signal line.


As it is installed on the truck. It tucks nicely out of the way and clears everything well.


Remote oil filter mount. Cut out of 12g SS just because I had the SS laying around.


And the oil drain back for the turbo. Made from the original stock drain back hose ends (I couldn't seem to find a source for the solder/braze on banjo fittings which is why I decided to reuse them) and some 1/2" SS tubing for the hose barbs which I TIG brazed in place. I would have photographed this in place on the engine but you really wouldn't be able to see it in the picture. As installed it has a nice constant slope down from the turbo to the return on the block so it shouldn't ever have problems returning oil.


I also made up a new turbo oil feed line which needed a reused banjo fitting as well but I didn't bother to take a picture of it as it really isn't that exciting.

I also received my rebuilt injectors back with their new Bosio PowerPlus 764 nozzles, all cleaned and pop tested and calibrated. They should really wake this little motor up. The injector pump is also all buttoned up and I will be installing it when the motor comes back out for the clutch and engine compartment paint, etc...

I'll keep posting as I do work (which I hope to be able to do more regularly) and thanx for watching.

Jaysin

That has to be the most aesthetically pleasing exhaust pipe and oil filter mount I have ever seen. Keep up the good work!

01greenjetta said:

That has to be the most aesthetically pleasing exhaust pipe and oil filter mount I have ever seen. Keep up the good work!

Click to expand...

No kidding

jaysin, way to raise the bar, dude.

Whitbread said:

Awesome build man! Glad to see someone else doing all 304 v banded tube work .
Word of caution though, if you don't put one of these in shortly after the turbo, you're going to have major weld cracking issues with any rigid mounts on the exhaust. BTDT, not fun. Verocious Motorsports is my favorite supplier for them. I'd use at least a 6" long one, if not an 8" or 10" if you have the room.

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Agreed 100%.

I didn't do this, and I know that the rigid turbo connection definitely adds vibrations. It also makes me nervous when I drive somewhere stupid and am flexing the frame hard.

Any updates?

I do have an update, since you ask. Although it seems that I have had little time lately what with work and a few weekend trips with my lovely wife I have managed to get the exhaust all welded up (which is nice to cross off the to do list), and I had the rear drive shaft shortened and balanced (some things I do leave to the pros, seeing as how I want a nice smooth vibe free drive shaft), I am in the process of redoing the front drive shaft too (I realized that I was going to have binding problems with the stock double carden at one end and a single carden (u-joint) at the other so I am making a double double carden shaft). I also have gotten some work done on the flat bed.

On to some pics...

You've seen the turbo DP and exhaust brake and now here is the rest with a 10" flex where the pipe crosses over behind the transfer case.


Tie down rails on the sides of the flat bed, also stake pockets and the mounting rails for all the bed wood. Done!


Lengthened rear shackles are also complete. (sorry for the bad picture)


I have also sorted out how I am going to do my fuel filler and got all the parts for my mechanical vnt boost controller and a bunch of little this and thats which always take more time then expected when doing an engine swap.

I am hoping to get the engine pulled out here soon and get the clutch in, timing belt changed, engine compartment painted, oil drain moved, etc... I'll get pictures as I move forward.

Thanx for looking,
Jaysin

I'm looking forward to hearing your feedback on the exhaust brake. I have a BD brake on my Duramax and use it a ton

I haven't read the whole thread, but I have been told exhaust brakes are a bad fit with hydraulic lifters in an interference motor. You can float a valve then impact it

butteAK said:

I haven't read the whole thread, but I have been told exhaust brakes are a bad fit with hydraulic lifters in an interference motor. You can float a valve then impact it

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I do appreciate the info here. However you can float valves in any motor with enough pressure behind the valve (boost pressure on the intake valve or back pressure on the exhaust valve) hydraulic lifters or not, because the pressure is lifting the valve off of it's seat. One needs to calculate the maximum psi allowed based on the area of the valve head and the valve spring seat pressure. In the case of these engines it calculates to 45 psi and I will be starting at 28 psi so it should be just fine. One could experience some lifter pump up if you get close to that maximum. Thanx though.

Jaysin

Techtonics Tuning makes a nice drop in set of upgraded valve springs for about $190. They're 30 or 40% stiffer if I remember right.


Lookin good man! Can't wait to see the monster rumble!

Well I haven't done an update here in way too long but that doesn't mean I haven't been working on it. I have gotten quite a bit done just not a lot that is Tdi oriented.

I got a bunch of work done on the flat bed.

Headache rack.




Fuel Filler.




Hitch and rear flatbed support.


I redid the front drive shaft to incorporate two Double Carden joints. It wasn't going to work with a Double Carde and Single Carden and the angles I had.


I found a Toyota E-locker but didn't want the E part of it and designed up a cable actuator for it.
Diff end.


Cab end.


Locker actuator video

Continued...

Cab B-pillar replacement.

Old corner.


Replacement corner installed.




I've also painted a bunch of stuff. Rebuilt the rear leaf springs. Rebuilt the rear axle with all new seals and bearings. Made several hose connectors for the cooling system. Finish welded a lot of parts that had only been tacked in place. I am getting ready to pull the engine and install the clutch, injector pump, replace the timing belt and some gaskets, and paint the engine compartment while the engine's out.

For more complete info on the non Tdi stuff you can check the last few pages (8-10 for the current stuff) of my complete fabrication thread at the OFN, here.

I hope you enjoy the update, and sorry they haven't been more regular.

Thanx,
Jaysin

nice work man!~!~! ....you have very good fab skills... I like the e locker cable setup...I just picked up a 4.10 e locker but I'm not excited about the vulnerable motor myself....I may actually sell that unit and go with a truetrac....any details on your setup?

On to another update. You know how they say "it's the little things that take time", well they're F'ing right.

I didn't like where the PS pump was mounted, it made the high and low pressure hose routing all funky and it was also just plain in the way for the lower coolant hose and it was close to steering bits (not close enough to hit but too close for comfort). So I made up some brackets and relocated it above the alternator. It's now easier to get to and much better hose routing.







Well relocating the PS pump let me reroute the lower coolant hose as well. The problem was that even though the PS pump was now out of the picture the thermostat housing still had the hose outlet to the back and with a 180 U-turn in the hose it still wasn't making me happy. So out came the calipers and a few hours and one 3.5" diameter chunk of aluminum bar stock later I had a new thermostat housing.

This is how it looked after it came out of my little Sheldon Lathe.




And a little layout, poke some holes on the drill press, some band saw work and cleanup on the belt sander and...


You'll notice I had to notch it to clear the block.


The thermostat side has a nice taper for good flow.


Mounted.


And with the hose, much better routing.


More to follow...

And I finally bit the bullet and bought my Viair Compressor (I need compressed air for the exhaust brake). I designed a mount for it and a secondary battery to hang under the flatbed. The pieces for the mount were cut from 12g material and all TIG welded together. I temporarily clamped it it place and ran it up to pressure and it isn't nearly as loud and the one I heard in a Jeep a while back. In fact I am quite pleased with the noise level and don't think it will be too annoying when the truck is running. If I had to guess I would say the one in the Jeep was very poorly mounted.







I still need to weld the bolting reinforcement to the flatbed frame but it is close.

That's it for now I hope to have more soon.

Thanx for following along.
Jaysin

Nice job man. I love your solution for the lower rad hose.

This thing is looking better and better. When you get done you need to drive up here and take your truck on the Rubicon Trail. You could probably find a big market for that E-locker cable setup.

Any updates Jaysin?

Ditto^ I wanna see more fab work

So it has been way toooooo loooong since I last updated this thread. To be honest I have been doing a lot of customer work and only sticking in an hour here and there but I am moving along. I have been updating a bit on another forum and I am going to post all that up here now too.

So here we go...

Damn I need to work faster.

I now have all the body rust repaired and all the sheet metal work finished. Time for a skim of bondo on the fixes to fill the minor imperfections and sanding till my fingers bleed, then paint. No real picture for this stuff yet but getting there.

I did however build bump stops and (I think) the axles have been bolted on for the last time. I incorporated them into the U- Bolt plates and they use the stock frame stops. Not much to be said about it so I'll get to the pictures.

Front.


Rear.


All Four.


Front from the front.


Front from the rear.


Rear.


I know I could have cut off the rear u-bolts but I still may need to add a short lift block to even out the stance once I get full weight on the truck.

There you go. I cut them out of 3/16" plate (which is probably overkill) and with the speed holes they don't add much to the unsprung weight. I don't think the Energy Suspension Poly bumps are going to give much but they should do their job and stop things from smacking into each other and keep the springs from bending by going into reverse arc.

And then...

Damn body work. One day my finger prints will grow back. It would figure that the truck I chose to build would have been as full of dimples as a golf ball. It really doesn't help that I am learning how to do finish body work as I go. Here's a couple of pictures of it for you.

This is the front fender that needed all the repair work. It is finally almost ready to prime.


The roof was the worst part and I have 15+ hours into making it right (probably 4-5 hours left). I think someone had a dance party up there. It was so stretched and oil canned. It took the better part of 6 hours to shrink it up with a torch.


Here is a (bad) picture of all the shrinking I had to do.


I've been working on a dash insert since the original was all broken and really didn't have enough room for the stereo and the extra gauges. I will need to cut and change a bit of the dash structure to clear the stereo but what's a little more work at this point, right?


I built a new aluminum radiator overflow tank. The notch around the hole in the core support is to clear the air intake for the intake air box that I am currently working on. I should have pictures of that soon.


I was having a hell of a time finding a cap and fill neck small enough for this tank, that and all the weld on fillers were $30-40. I stumbled on some aluminum garden hose parts that, I think, fit the bill pretty well. They are black anodized and came from Gempler's Supply. The cost was around $5 for the male part and $4 for the cap.


Now for the fun bit. The new wheels and tires.






The tires are from Tread Wright, they are their new bead to bead retreads. They are identical tread pattern to the BFG All-terrain. Of course they don't offer the size I wanted in 15" wheel so I also had to order so new wheels at the same time, they're U.S. Wheel Stealth Series 16x8s and I added the little two tone green pin stripes while I was at it to tie them into the body color which will also be green. The tire size is 285/75-R16 and they measure within a hair's breath of 33".

There is a ton of other little body work spots that I have been dealing with but I really think that it's better for your and my sanity if I don't post the 100 or so pictures that I would need to to show it all. Needless to say I have spread nearly a quart of Bondo and have sanded 97% of that back off. It is starting to come around and I hope to be priming and painting here soon.

And More...

And the latest bit done and I am hoping that I will have a little free time to continue getting more done.

I was having a hard time finding a shop that had the fittings I needed to make up a custom power steering high pressure line so I went to Pick n Pull Friday and got a PS line from a 4wd Toyota of early 90's vintage that had the correct banjo fitting on the pump end and had about the right amount of soft line and then cut off, bent and re-flared the steering box end and I came up with this...

I really love going to the junk yards, there are so many parts and Ideas to choose from. And all without completely draining the wallet.

I also made up a PS tank as well. It is aluminum and about three and a half times the volume of the stock tank. The cap is made from some an aluminum garden hose fitting and cap. The hose fittings I turned up on the lathe as I was having a hard time finding aluminum hose fittings for a reasonable price. It mounts through the inner fender to a threaded steel backing plate that has been riveted to the opposite side of the inner fender, good and sturdy.



The only thing left on the PS tank is to vent it but I haven't decided how best to vent it yet. I don't just want a hole in the cap as I am afraid that might leak a little because there isn't any sort of baffle. I will also likely make up some sort of cooler for the low pressure return line.

I also got the Air Filter Box made up. Again it is aluminum and it holds a rectangular filter that measures 5.75 x 11.25. It draws through the slash cut tube coming off the lower box and then up through the filter and into the engine. The fact that it draws up through the filter should keep the filter dry(er) when driving in the rain.



I still need to get or make the clips to hold the top on. I will likely make or scrounge some spring clips like OEM air boxes have.


In the truck. You can see that the intake for the pre-filter air sticks through the core support. I think it is even the same hole used for the original air intake. It should get nice cool air here for the most part. The aluminum tube that goes from the air box to the turbo is just for mock-up, I will be finding a 2" rubber hose with the appropriate 45 degree bends. The silicon connectors and aluminum tube are just too stiff and will transfer to much vibration and strain to the air box.




In other news I got the flatbed and headache rack back from the powder coater. It's down at my folks place having the wood fitted to it, Dad's more of a wood worker then I am. I'll get pictures of it as soon as it comes up to my shop.

So now we're caught up. I will try to be more diligent about keeping this thread updated regularly.

Thanx for watching at home,
Jaysin

This thread makes me want to buy a TIG!

I just thought that I'd add a few more pictures of the latches that I installed to close the top of the air box. They came from '99-XX Chevrolet/GMC full size pickups and SUVs (Tahoe, Suburban, etc...). And not so surprising is that they are from the air filter boxes of those trucks. I did have to make the mounting base part from some SS sheet I had laying around as they were originally clipped into the plastic factory air boxes. As a little bonus the latches are even constructed from stainless steel, so no rust.

Anyway, so you'll get the picture here are the pictures...

Latched.


Open.


Slightly more from the side so you can see the little mount I made.




All together there are 4 latches and the top seems to be nice a secure, however I will be adding little tabs to the lid to keep the hook end of the latch from vibrating off.

And this is a picture of the new intake hose from the air box to turbo. This is much more flexible then the aluminum tube and silicon connectors. Hopefully it wont transmit much of the engine vibes to the air box.


Thanx,
Jaysin

That attention to detail to make that metal airbox is outstanding!

Looks great!

A tiny update.

I knocked out a mount for a stock TDi fuel filter the other day.



It mounts in the location for the stock Yota evap canister, I don't really see a need for the evap on the diesel conversion and it looked like a great place to mount the filter, so bingo.

The mount is cut from 12g CRS sheet.

Like I said tiny update.


I do want to make mention of some info I came across while looking at the Saginaw PS pumps that come on these TDI motors. Luke Wilson did a write up about the Penny mod to lower the pressure that the stock pump puts out and I happened across a write up in Custom Classic Trucks magazine about the same thing. There is a shim kit for these Saginaw TC pumps for changing the pressure Borgeson part number 899001. The article also has a chart showing the pressures with various numbers of shims. Link to chart. Anyway I hope this information helps someone out.

Thanx for looking,
Jaysin

P.S. Can someone tell me where I can get the little clip for the fuel filter that holds the plastic thermostatic bypass valve in place? Or maybe the VW P/N?

ID parts sells them. No idea what the VW part number is though. I've heard it called the mickey mouse clip before.

I really like your air box and the fuel filter mount


Thanks for the info on the power steering pump. Since I am going to pushing around 37s with hydro assist I need to do something with my pump as well. My buddies 4runner project is at my house and he has one of the upgraded Trail Gear TC pumps so I will take it apart and see what they did to it

http://www.trail-gear.com/ram-assist-pumps

all the custom fab work is awesome...can't wait to see and hear the finished product....your work is inspiring me to get back on my tig and get better at welding aluminum....