Balance shaft delete. How to and part numbers

I purchased the tools from vw.snapon.com. The 3415 crank counter hold , T10050 crank locking fixture, 3359 cam locking pin, and 3393 cradle alignment pins, or equivalents are required in my opinion. The T10058 makes the rear pan bolts easy, but any extra long ball end 6mm Allen should work. The T10053 makes replacing the seal simple. The most difficult part was getting the old sprocket off the crank. I broke one puller, and bent the bolts on a bearing separator. If I did it again I'd get the puller identified in the MOGolf write-up. I finally made something similar by grinding grade 8 3/8-16 bolt heads eccentric and using a hub puller. This is where the crank counter hold comes in handy. Getting the new sprocket on gave me all kinds of grief also. The first time it seized on the crank only barely on. I was able to pull it off, but the second time it seized on the crank not quite on eventhough I made sure the sprocket was at the high end of the temp range, and tried to work fast. I pressed it the rest of the way using the bolt from T10053, a heavy washer, and some pipe. ACE used to carry Hanson taps. Wherever you go I'd get a quality one. I used an old Craftsman from back when Craftsman was quality. Throw the square headed pipe plug that comes with the kit away and get a set screw. The plumbing style pipe plug was in the way of the windage tray. I used a flush pipe plug with an Allen socket since I already tapped it with a NPT. A 3/8 set screw sounds easier. It doesn't have to be leak proof, as long as it tight and doesn't leak more than the BSM did through the bearing clearances. I pulled the front end completely off. I'd hate to try and do it in the little space called the service position. You have to take the trans lines and rad hoses apart to get to the service position anyway, and the A/C condenser will rotate out of the way along the passenger fender. Anymore, I interpret "put the lock carrier in the service position" as rip the front of the car off. It's easy enough and makes any work on the front of the engine way easier. If you don't want to deal with the trans fluid, get some rubber plugs and quickly plug the trans lines. If you work quickly you won't loose enough to make a difference. I just went ahead and did a fluid and filter change. Just my opinion/experience. It seems everyone has their own method. Now that I reminisce, if I had to do one again I'd just drive or tow it to Saint Louis so OH could do it while I sit by the pool at the motel.

Do i have to remove the AC compressor bracket to remove the front engine sealing flange or whatever that front piece is called? AC belt tensioner bracket Seems to be right in the way of pulling that piece.

BBB129 said:

Do i have to remove the AC compressor bracket to remove the front engine sealing flange or whatever that front piece is called? AC belt tensioner bracket Seems to be right in the way of pulling that piece.

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If memory serves me correct, yes you do. But use logic, if it's in the way, remove it.

blazen71 said:

If memory serves me correct, yes you do. But use logic, if it's in the way, remove it.

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HAHA I know right!? I just never read anything about it, and I did a fair amount of reading and re reading procedure, so it caught me off guard and of course I didn't want to remove it, hopefully its just the two bolts going into the block, thank you again for the rapid response!

Man, the crankshaft sprocket did not seat all the way before it tightened up on me!.......any suggestions I have to get it off and retry....did it just as I was supposed to i thought. phhhhhffff

I had the same issue. Ended up getting it on as far as I could after heating it and tapped it on the rest of the way with a socket and hammer

Thanks again for the response, I wondered about doing that, but I don't have the front clip off just in service position so im not sure I'll have the space.....but I will try that, what a pain! The rest has gone smooth. I'll try heating and working it on all the way...

It's not too late to take the front end off. I highly recommend it!

Here's what I did, I didn't want to have to replenish my ATF or drain and replace the coolant either, so i removed passenger side clip from the service pin to give me a few extra inches, (propped it on a chair) then I heated the gear with a propane torch, right before I started tapping it on with a socket, I shoved an ice cube in the center of the Crank to cool the crank and not the gear, and tapped it on the rest of the way...it worked out pretty good.
Thanks for the replies Blazen71!! I was a little flustered when my gear barely made it on there before locking up! now just gotta throw the pump and windage tray, then I wait for my tensioner to get here as there was a mix up on my kit...

Well thanks to all the help on this thread, Especially BLAZEN! I just wrapped up the BSM delete, everything seems to be running nice and smoth! she has a touch more vibration it seems but no biggie, Ive only driven it 12 miles since purchase, and worked on her about 40 hours doing the TC and the BSM Delete, Im very tired of working on it and excited to put some miles on er! Had 247 on the original chained BS!!! Very happy to get it done and get her on the road! THANKS EVERYBODY!

Congrats! I noticed a vibration/resignation around 2000 rpm while cruising.

Glad to hear you got it done. Had the same issue with the sprocket not going all the way on. I rigged up something to press it on. It's a real pain when you're doing it, but once it's done you say well that wasn't so bad. It's even better knowing you got rid of the ticking bomb. Congrats. Now enjoy it!

MEgearhead said:

Glad to hear you got it done. Had the same issue with the sprocket not going all the way on. I rigged up something to press it on. It's a real pain when you're doing it, but once it's done you say well that wasn't so bad. It's even better knowing you got rid of the ticking bomb. Congrats. Now enjoy it!

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Thanks! yeah I read that after, dunno how I missed it the first time....you're right tho, at the time I was worked up trying to get it off and couldn't, once I was done tho It seemed like no problem haha

SOOO, (after about 600 miles of "trouble free" driving after bsm delete) this morning I started my car up, and immediately (no warm up) went to flip a u so I could hook up my trailer and load a dirt bike while she warmed up (thinking about it now im glad it warned me when it did!) and the beep and STOP message came up, I immediately turned it off. hadn't been running but 10-15 seconds....well i was in the middle of the street, 60 feet from where i wanted. So I started it up and finished my u turn let it idle about 5 seconds (wanting to know if it came on again...maybe 10 more seconds of run time total) and no more STOP or beep or anything. but it does have a 1 in the top right corner of the red display screen....I'm assuming that its low oil pressure, I didn't leave it running long enough for it to display anything but STOP (not sure it would say oil pressure or?) nor did any check engine light or oil light come on....any info would help. sounds like i need to check pressures with a mechanical guage....really hoping i don't have to pull apart again...i plugged the bsm oil feed hole, the plug was in there well with lock tite....

Turns out I jumped the gun and my STOP light was for the brakes, I shut the car down so fast it didn't (i didn't notice) the brake light flash or anything. seems as if i just had low brake fluid? topped off (not very low) and haven't had the light come back on....dunno what that was all about.

BBB129 said:

Turns out I jumped the gun and my STOP light was for the brakes, I shut the car down so fast it didn't (i didn't notice) the brake light flash or anything. seems as if i just had low brake fluid? topped off (not very low) and haven't had the light come back on....dunno what that was all about.

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Could be a bad brake pedal switch or connection at the bulbs

oldpoopie said:

Could be a bad brake pedal switch or connection at the bulbs

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would that make the STOP warning light come up and beep at me?

Could any of the pioneers/mechanics/owners of the BSM delete chime in to say if they have had any issue so far? I have to imagine quite a few deleted cars have nearly reached 100k miles by now.

Main reason for asking is that as I wrap up my first BSM delete, I am looking back through the old threads and cannot help but wonder why more attention was not paid to the windage / baffle tray (and why kits aren't supplied with support provisions). The whole reason of doing this modification was to achieve typical TDI longevity (i.e. hundreds of thousands of miles), so it is a little baffle-ing that so many were ok with attaching a foot long plastic tray by a single bolt to the block. I am sure that the oil would be very good at damping the worst of the vibration, but plastic is pretty prone to cyclic fatigue failure. I feel like a loose tray in the oil pan could lead to major issues in short order. Additionally, there are likely many who bolted the tray up without it making good contact with the block due to some protruding tabs on the tray (see below links).

Genuinely curious as to whether this tray (or anything else) should be a concern as I and others continue to put miles on BS-less BHWs. Many thanks to those who respond.

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Helpful links on this topic for those interested in the windage tray problem:

-jimbote writes of the two raised tabs that need to be removed on the windage tray for flush mating to the BHW block (#6):

-AndyBees posts pics that shows how the tray is supported by ALH oil pan (#15):

-Windex says protruding oil-feed plug-head is more than enough support for windage tray, but user Mirage states that the other end of the tray can move down into the BHW oil pan, attaches spring to support tray:

-Multiple people have used the spring and safetywire method:

-Others have used a bolt and washer to hold windage tray up to the block, threading the oil feed hole:

-QuickTD says AWM (1.8t B5.5) pan has proper windage tray supports and fits BHW block, ALH pan does not work because of BHW longitudinal orientation and subframe. AWM downside being loss of oil capacity:

Over 50k miles on my setup, and pulled the engine out for a block swap at about 30k miles. I drive it HARD. Absolutely no issues with the BSM delete or the windage tray. It's been rock solid reliable. Also smooth as silk at all RPMs, any roughness I experienced in the past was due to incorrectly gapped rings and that got fully resolved with the block swap. I have a spring under the windage tray that the oil pan pushes up against, it's a spring intended for the shifter on an 01E 6 speed (the push-down-to-reverse spring). It fits perfectly and snug-ly in one of the gaps of the windage tray and keeps it secure and flush against the block.

I've been looking at this board regularly since I bought my '05 Passat BHW new in 2005 (recently sold) and don't recall a single instance of anyone with a deleted balance shaft module reporting an issue related to it. Delete and motor on. In my delete there was nothing added or modified in regards to a windage tray and I motored on happily for 30,000 miles before I sold my car.

280,000km on mine since the delete. Same single bolt holding the windage tray, ALH pump with BRM sprockets. No problems and still going fine 6 years later.

Thank you all for your responses. Glad to hear yours are holding up. I’ll probably just leave my windage tray as is, unsupported.

On a separate note, I want to document an error I found in the BSM delete guide I was following from kermatdi (I think it was originally posted on myturbodiesel). It guesses at the torque for the 3 oil pump bolts, suggesting 20Nm. I used this value and ended up stretching a bolt. I checked it with an ALH and BRM manual, found that it’s actually 15Nm. Everything else was correct.

Ok so I’m having some issues. I’m to installing the oil pump but the bolts supplied from id parts work in two of the holes but the rear most hole is blind and the bolt bottoms out before it gets tight. Anyone else have this issue?

I feel kind of dumb after that. Thanks. Next problem is my two piece alh pan is too short is hitting the oil pick up. Do I just have to change out the oil pickup tube. Moddify the lower steel pan? I split the pans and just installed the upper pan.

The motor is from a b5.5 passat but I'm putting it into a samurai. The pan is shorter by 2" on one side making more clearance.

It says alh and bew pan. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BDVJCJ...abc_NJ7FZMYQ3HYS2DPYPRFV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

So after some searching the part numbers for a 1.8t and and alh are almost the same. Alh is 06B115251 and the 1.8t is 06A115251. So is it just a height difference. I cut some off the coned part and got it to fit but it's only 1/8" on one side and 1/4" of clearance on the other side. I can trim a little more if needed. Or just bit the bullet and spend another $40 +shipping and tax