I get it. Sounds a lot like expanded metal. I was thinking something like this: http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/hrsteel2.phtml?page=expanded
The hardest part to me is figuring out where the line between protection and comprimising air flow is.
1942 Willys MB rock crawler build
- Thread starter rooney77
- Start date
The hardest part to me is figuring out where the line between protection and comprimising air flow is.
MonsterTDI09
TDIClub Enthusiast, Veteran Member
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Nice project.I would put manual air shut off.I was just thing what would happen if you rolled over.
I haven't a clue what manual air shutoff is. I'm sure it'll end up on it's lid. I've taken a few rollovers and tip overs in my cj5. Just part of the sport.
SuperAdellic
Veteran Member
How much protection are you looking for? The expanded metal would stop small rocks and stones, but bump anything bigger with it and it will give easily. The reason I bring that up is I used the stuff as a replacement grill for my 87 toyota beater 4x4 and it's not very strong.
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mcneil
Veteran Member
A side mount radiator would be pretty cool if you can pull it off. I would say you should expect to do some good sheetmetal or glass to make the ducts work.
The way the HMMWV/H1 radiator works is the engine mounted fan is ducted to the radiator which lays back about 60 deg from vertical. There's a big shroud to make the fan pull through the radiator with the inlet on the grill. There's about 8" of clearance between the hood and the grill side of the radiator, tapering down to about 4" as you move back towards the top edge of the radiator. That space gives the air space to slow down and turn through the radiator when the truck's at highway speed. It works extremely well as far as I've seen.
Where were you thinking of putting the inlet to the radiator? If not in the inner fender, you could suck air down from above. In the inner fender, you could add a louvered cover that blocks the direct path of tire debris.
The way the HMMWV/H1 radiator works is the engine mounted fan is ducted to the radiator which lays back about 60 deg from vertical. There's a big shroud to make the fan pull through the radiator with the inlet on the grill. There's about 8" of clearance between the hood and the grill side of the radiator, tapering down to about 4" as you move back towards the top edge of the radiator. That space gives the air space to slow down and turn through the radiator when the truck's at highway speed. It works extremely well as far as I've seen.
Where were you thinking of putting the inlet to the radiator? If not in the inner fender, you could suck air down from above. In the inner fender, you could add a louvered cover that blocks the direct path of tire debris.
Consider a hi-lift handle to the head?
andy2
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I wouldn't be too concerned about rebuilding the engine just get moving under its own power first as you might find money to be spent better elsewhere.
No need for an air shut off if you simply run the CCV to a catch can.I've had my AHU powered samarui on its side and up side down many times without any issues.No engine lockup just oil leaking out of my catch can
I still run a rad out front.Also there is no need for an intercooer for crawling so I didn't bother putting one into the loop.I watch EGT's when booting around without and intercooler that's all.
Well unless I hit a deer or something there shouldn't be a "big" hit since the tire will offer some protection as well.
There wouldn't be any ducting. I should have taken a picture of it last night but if you can imagine staring at the driver's side of the jeep and looking past the front tire and seeing a radiator where inner fender should be. There is literally no room for ducting. I'm not even sure the radiator will fit in there sideways. I've still got to consider motor width and motor mounts.A side mount radiator would be pretty cool if you can pull it off. I would say you should expect to do some good sheetmetal or glass to make the ducts work.
The way the HMMWV/H1 radiator works is the engine mounted fan is ducted to the radiator which lays back about 60 deg from vertical. There's a big shroud to make the fan pull through the radiator with the inlet on the grill. There's about 8" of clearance between the hood and the grill side of the radiator, tapering down to about 4" as you move back towards the top edge of the radiator. That space gives the air space to slow down and turn through the radiator when the truck's at highway speed. It works extremely well as far as I've seen.
Where were you thinking of putting the inlet to the radiator? If not in the inner fender, you could suck air down from above. In the inner fender, you could add a louvered cover that blocks the direct path of tire debris.
Consider a hi-lift handle to the head?
I hadn't planned on putting a shut off on it. I don't see a need for one. Glad to hear I'm not the only one that ends up flopped over.I wouldn't be too concerned about rebuilding the engine just get moving under its own power first as you might find money to be spent better elsewhere.
No need for an air shut off if you simply run the CCV to a catch can.I've had my AHU powered samarui on its side and up side down many times without any issues.No engine lockup just oil leaking out of my catch can
I still run a rad out front.Also there is no need for an intercooer for crawling so I didn't bother putting one into the loop.I watch EGT's when booting around without and intercooler that's all.
I do plan to run the intercooler since this will see a lot of street time as well. I just don't know where I'll put it. I may have to go with a water to air type intercooler.
MonsterTDI09
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I was thinking could the engine run away.If the engine is upside down.
Gotcha. Well I don't think that's an issue. I know a few guys with 4bt's and they haven't had any issues when they flop. If it does become an issue I guess I could rig something up to the ASV to act as a kill switch.
greengeeker
Vendor
I really like the radiator you have for your build but it is oversized for the heat rejection of a tdi. Is there anyway you can go with a smaller one? If not then you might want to consider going with thinner aftermarket fans instead of the taurus ones that you have. Can you snap a shot with your radiator in place to show how much room you have to work with? If you're sticking with your current radiator and mount it up front I think an AWIC is going to be the way to go.
I've trimmed the taurus fan down a ton and have it as thin as the aftermarket fans.
The radiator was the only one I could find that fit between the headlights and had the outlets on the driver's side. I'd love to use a smaller one if there was one I could afford and if it didn't mean that I wasted the coin on the one currently in there. The pics in the link below are the only ones I have of the setup. I can get more this evening with the fender and hood on and with the body lowered.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4086177&postcount=5
I need to hang the motor over between the rails to see if I can squeeze the rad in there sideways. Some rough measurements make it seem iffy. I already plan to move my axle back another two inches so that will help with driveline length but if I can get more from moving the radiator, I"m definitely going to do it.
Here's some pics from last night. I got tired of staring at a grill and frame rails so I lowered the tub back on it and clamped the body together. Then I had to put the seat in it and make vroom vroom noises.
Growler
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Umm.. YES! Like the setup with the "small" shop tv in there.. and the bright lighting...
and is that a Newbeetle seat you have in your Jeep?
and is that a Newbeetle seat you have in your Jeep?
Ya the tv, xbox and couches have pretty much made the shop the place everyone ends up when we have people over. I don't mind, it means I don't have to get cleaned up or quit working.
The seats, column, motor, gauge cluster...are all from the my wife's 2000 Beetle donor car. It currently sits in two pieces. The front half is on my trailer awaiting a trip to the scrap yard and the back half is in the shop awaiting conversion to a trailer.
I just need to figure out when the trailer will get done. I've got a 68 beetle in there I want to resto-mod (my first car) and an all original 1 owner 65 mustang fastback I have to restore. Was my mother in-laws and she gave it to my wife so now I get to restore it for her to drive.
Oh and I've got to finish my buddies cj5 too.
Growler
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I think I know whats going to happen to our green couch once the new sectional arrives.. I need to set up a Lounge in my Garage...
I love it. Gives me a spot to sit and think/plan/design. And on long Saturdays it's nice to be able to sit and eat lunch, grab a beer and chill for a minute.
So since my HPA kit was delayed yet again on getting shipped, I've got nothing to do this weekend. I really don't want to waste a weekend in the shop (wife is going out of town) so I was thinking of possibly painting the motor. I had planned on painting it a silver/grey of some sort thinking that would make any leaks more obvious. I'm worried about being able to reach the whole block since I can't remove the IP and would rather not remove the metal lines to the injectors. What's the consensus among you guys? Worth the effort?
Rockwell
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Worth it. Please stick to normal colors, nothing ruins the look of a clean well done swap then some over flashy engine paint.
Removing the lines is not biggie as long as you have a 17mm crow's foot. No seals or anything to replace. Make sure to cover the fittings to keep dirt out while they are off. Just leave the nuts at the injectors slightly loose when you fire it up to purge the air and prime the system.
Well I wouldn't consider silver/grey flashy. Plus it matches what the rest of the rig will be. I mean I could always go lime green or safety orange.Worth it. Please stick to normal colors, nothing ruins the look of a clean well done swap then some over flashy engine paint.
Air was my primary concern. But it sounds easy enough to purge the system when the time comes.
SuperAdellic
Veteran Member
An olive drab green as a tribute to the mb's military origins, maybe?Well I wouldn't consider silver/grey flashy. Plus it matches what the rest of the rig will be. I mean I could always go lime green or safety orange.
Air was my primary concern. But it sounds easy enough to purge the system when the time comes.
Bleeding the injection system is really quite easy. Make sure the pump is fully bled, leave the fitting on the #3 injector cracked, wrap the fitting with a paper towel, and crank until the paper towel is a little wet. Tighten the fitting and fire her up. If you run into leaking at the fittings, loosen the fitting again and wiggle it as you retighten it. I have found that to help seat the line square in the injector/injection pump. Hope that helps.
Ugh, the olive drab is so completely overdone with a flat fender jeep. Everyone likes to think every flatty is military. Sorry, just a rant I have.
I was going to go maroon and silver for my paint. Like my cj5. It's for my alma mater Texas A&M. Either that or I was gonna get lazy and just clear coat it. Rust holes/bullet holes and everything. Either way the bullet holes are staying.
Well looks like I might be painting this weekend then. That sounds a ton easier than I thought it would be.
Growler
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personally i crack all 4 lines at the injectors, then crank with a non empty pump till they are moist on the top, then tighten them, crank a little more and they fire up almost every time.
trick is to make sure that the IP hasn't leaked out too much. and if you are only cracking the hardlines to bleed them you are good. if you need to remove them from the IP, you will want to cap them off with balloons/rubber bands or something to keep the fluid in the IP while you have them off to avoid too much hassle.
best of luck.
trick is to make sure that the IP hasn't leaked out too much. and if you are only cracking the hardlines to bleed them you are good. if you need to remove them from the IP, you will want to cap them off with balloons/rubber bands or something to keep the fluid in the IP while you have them off to avoid too much hassle.
best of luck.
I didn't get too much done. I finished removing all the leaf spring crap, bolted up the driver fender and hood, clamped the passenger fender and realized my windshield is way crooked (middle pic). I've noticed it before and I've always wanted to fix it. Well I finally did it. I know in the last (jeep) pic it still looks crooked, it's the tub that's crooked not the windshield at that point. I've already cut out some floor braces and started fixing that. Oh and whitbread sent me some pics of my intake. It turned out perfect.
SuperAdellic
Veteran Member
Sorry, didn't know. I have never delved too deeply into the Jeep world. The Toyota community is like that at times. Cutting up a FJ40/45 can cause an stir. Maroon and silver would be interesting.
That intake looks nice. Matt does great work.
Eh no worries. I've had all sorts of suggestions for paint colors. And clear coating is still on the table.
Growler
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I like the idea of clear coating all that patina. I think it looks proper just the way it is, and if you could keep it from rotting away, all the better.
I wish it was patina. Having sanded through several layers of paint to patch some holes I've discovered it was pink at some point. I'm absolutely not letting my buddies in on that piece of information.
You guys keep this up I might just get lazy and clear coat it.
You guys keep this up I might just get lazy and clear coat it.
SuperAdellic
Veteran Member
Maroon and silver it is my vote. Rust and rusty looking vehicles is over-played, IMO. Of course I might be just a bit biased growing up around the ratrod crowd. Common theme with them.
Rat rods were cool until they got cool.