grey matter
Veteran Member
I was wondering if I should get my new Jetta rustproofed. I know they warranty the body for 12 years LOL. They have to drill holes for the spray, but will that void the warranty? Anybody come across this issue? Thanks
Rustproofing??
- Thread starter grey matter
- Start date
I was wondering if I should get my new Jetta rustproofed. I know they warranty the body for 12 years LOL. They have to drill holes for the spray, but will that void the warranty? Anybody come across this issue? Thanksmillerman61
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Location
- Chesapeake, Virginia
- TDI
- '13 Jetta TDI Premium w/Nav, DSG. Bought back on 12/23/16
If you add rust proofing it will void your VW warranty.
grey matter
Veteran Member
Ok that's good to know, thanks
flyboy320
Veteran Member
I just got mine Krowned and they state in writing it doesn't void your warranty....well worth it in our climate.
jeffy
Member
I have had mine Krowned also...Good insurance in our Canadian climate, take care.
MichVW
Veteran Member
I plan on getting mine Krowned as well. Drove 50 miles to Sarnia, ON and had it done on my pickup truck. Cheap insurance. Plus, I think the VW rust warrenty only covers "perforation" or rust HOLES. I do not want to get to the point of having holes in my car to test the VW warrenty. I will be getting my new 2013 Jetta done next spring.
TDIx2
Veteran Member
How long will you keep your VW? Look at older VW cars I never seen them with holes endless they are really old. Crown needs to be performed once every year and cost 120 a year. In ten years that's 1200 bucks. Now if you keep your car that long it is still under a VW warranty too. I spoke to a respected crown rust proofing owner who also has his own body shop that specializes in older cars restorations. He said VW factory is one of the best at protecting from rust and crown spray job is not going to help much if at all.
TDIx2
Veteran Member
The car is already rust proofed from the factory. No reason to do a thing else for rust proofing it. Wash it, dry it, wax it and it will last a long time.
I would and I will, just as I have rustproofed all previous cars.
My present car is 15 years old with zero rust and its not just the body that you should be concerned with. Rustproofing protects your fuel and brake lines. Mine are still like new.
It all depends how long you want to keep your car and also if you think having your car rustproofed will help resale value.
Yes, for perforation from the inside out. Chances are that won't happen and by the time the warranty expires, rust will already have started.
Normally yes, if you just let them loose at the car. My car does not have a single hole drilled. There are plenty of rubber capped access holes under the car. I pop those off and after the spraying process, reinsert the caps.
Doors can be accessed by removing door panels (what I do) or by popping the rubber grommets where wiring enters the door.
Hood and trunk lids have plenty of access holes.
What to use: Krown T40 which is light brown (not the T32 which is red). This is an annual process and the only type of rustproofing anyone should consider. We tested Krown and some other names in our Defence labs (salt spray chambers, etc) and it came out on top. Mind you, I could have told them that since I had been using it on my mom's car years prior to those tests. Her car was sold at 16 years rust free.
This is my daily driver after 11 harsh winters...(I just installed new suspension components)...
Equally important is keeping your carpets dry and salt-free. The trick to salt-free carpets.
This is my front carpet after 14 winters. It has never been shampooed.
Krown is not a rustproofing product like that black tar they used to spray on ages ago. You want a rustproofing product that never dries or hardens. You want one that creeps all the time. Those wax-oil products aren't great either.
Krown is usually applied once a year, but you can get away by applying it the first three years and then every second year thereafter.
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TDIx2
Veteran Member
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28635
I sold my 04 passat wagon last year and it still looked new up to the day I sold it. The car was well washed and waxed regularly no signs of rust anywhere top or bottom and was a daily driver.
Here is the first of many steps in factory rust proofing.
http://youtu.be/TtwBe8_4kGw
I sold my 04 passat wagon last year and it still looked new up to the day I sold it. The car was well washed and waxed regularly no signs of rust anywhere top or bottom and was a daily driver.
Here is the first of many steps in factory rust proofing.
http://youtu.be/TtwBe8_4kGw
I've never rust proffed any of my vw's in the last 15 yrs.
I was just wondering what this krowning thing was and how much of a difference it is in price.
Thanks for the info.993er said:
Jetta Rustproofing Tips
A follow up since I just spent a good portion of the day Krowning my 2013 Jetta.
Since the car is new to me, I am not ultra familiar with the ins and outs as I would with a car that I have rust proofed before, so I will be finishing off tomorrow. I take my time to make sure the job is done right.
No holes drilled...and I never have since first using Krown on all my cars since 1990.
There are quite a few heat shields under the car where the exhaust runs making it difficult to get to the body. I was able to spray between the aluminium panels and body. Furthermore, this product creeps well, so I am not worried.
Underbody trim panels: There are two long plastic panels (item 1: left and right) covering the underbody from the front to the rear. Each of my underbody trim panels are held in place by plastic nuts retained by the underbody trim panels (item 3 – items 2, “spreader rivet” were not used on my vehicle). There are eight plastic nuts on the driver’s side underbody trim panel (I haven’t checked the passenger side yet). Loosen all plastic nuts (10 mm socket) and remove the panel. In my case, a plastic spreader rivet for my front splash guards mount into the underbody trim panel, so I just let the underbody trim panel droop at the rear onto a support. This provided plenty of space to spray Krown to the actual floor of the Jetta. This step is required to get to the rocker panel plugs as well.
Rocker panels: usually there are rubber plugs at each end of them on the underside of most cars. The Jetta has them on the inner edge of the rocker panel joint. There are about 4 plugs on each side.
Front doors: were accessed from the rubber boot for the wiring at the front of the doors. I carefully pulled them out of the doors. The angle makes it impossible to insert a spray wand, so a flexible hose with short wand was inserted.
Rear doors: were accessed from the rubber boot for the wiring at the front of the doors. I carefully pulled them out of the doors. With the rear door closed and the front door open, it was easy to insert a full length spray wand.
Front hood and trunk lid: Simple! There are plenty of access holes, either in plain view, or by removing rubber plugs or by removing/unscrewing the rubber bumper stops.
Tomorrow: the passenger side of the underbody and the trunk body panels, especially that cavity between the rear doors and the wheel well.
A follow up since I just spent a good portion of the day Krowning my 2013 Jetta.
Since the car is new to me, I am not ultra familiar with the ins and outs as I would with a car that I have rust proofed before, so I will be finishing off tomorrow. I take my time to make sure the job is done right.
No holes drilled...and I never have since first using Krown on all my cars since 1990.
There are quite a few heat shields under the car where the exhaust runs making it difficult to get to the body. I was able to spray between the aluminium panels and body. Furthermore, this product creeps well, so I am not worried.
Underbody trim panels: There are two long plastic panels (item 1: left and right) covering the underbody from the front to the rear. Each of my underbody trim panels are held in place by plastic nuts retained by the underbody trim panels (item 3 – items 2, “spreader rivet” were not used on my vehicle). There are eight plastic nuts on the driver’s side underbody trim panel (I haven’t checked the passenger side yet). Loosen all plastic nuts (10 mm socket) and remove the panel. In my case, a plastic spreader rivet for my front splash guards mount into the underbody trim panel, so I just let the underbody trim panel droop at the rear onto a support. This provided plenty of space to spray Krown to the actual floor of the Jetta. This step is required to get to the rocker panel plugs as well.
Rocker panels: usually there are rubber plugs at each end of them on the underside of most cars. The Jetta has them on the inner edge of the rocker panel joint. There are about 4 plugs on each side.
Front doors: were accessed from the rubber boot for the wiring at the front of the doors. I carefully pulled them out of the doors. The angle makes it impossible to insert a spray wand, so a flexible hose with short wand was inserted.
Rear doors: were accessed from the rubber boot for the wiring at the front of the doors. I carefully pulled them out of the doors. With the rear door closed and the front door open, it was easy to insert a full length spray wand.
Front hood and trunk lid: Simple! There are plenty of access holes, either in plain view, or by removing rubber plugs or by removing/unscrewing the rubber bumper stops.
Tomorrow: the passenger side of the underbody and the trunk body panels, especially that cavity between the rear doors and the wheel well.
deflux
Veteran Member
Usually I go to Krown but this year I did it myself with their spray cans. It took 5 full cans to do my car to the point that I was satisfied with it. It's been done at a Krown shop every year so I already had the holes drilled. Drilling holes is a good idea, imo. Mine were drilled 8 years ago and there is no rust or any issues with them.
At 8 bucks for a can, I save quite a bit doing it this way. Probably not as thorough as having it done by them though.
At 8 bucks for a can, I save quite a bit doing it this way. Probably not as thorough as having it done by them though.
Some have had no issues and others that I know have had rust start at the holes. Who knows why.
If it is cold out and you have trouble getting the cans to spray well, let them soak in some warm/hot water. I get my Krown in a 20 liter pail, but then you need a compressor and spray kit to apply it.
deflux
Veteran Member
Who is your supplier? I tried a couple Krown dealers and they wouldn't sell it to me in anything other than cans...
I don't know why. Try another Krown dealer.
TJGarvin
Veteran Member
You might want to investigate the electronic anti-rust modules. I had one from Diamond-Cote put on the Jetta at the dealer when I bought the car.
I went electronic, again, because of my experience with my 08 Focus with a module on it. I don't recall the brand, and I don't have the car here to pop the hood and look. There is no other rust proofing on the car.
The Focus is going into it's 6th winter in southern Ontario, where the cars swim in salt water for 4 to 5 months of the year. There is 325,000 K on the car, and lots of chipped paint on the hood, above the windshield, and especially the lower rear doors. The doors, in particular, have a couple of thumb-nail size chucks out of the paint and are showing bare metal.
Despite the abuse, there is NO rust on any panels or in any of the chips (chunks) anywhere on that car. I have checked under the hood, in the tire well and the trunk, the inside of the doors, and the wheel wells. Again, NO rust at all.
All of that being said, a good installation is what makes anything work well. I have extended family members that haven't had the same experience. I'll know how good the Maple VW install is in a few years.
I went electronic, again, because of my experience with my 08 Focus with a module on it. I don't recall the brand, and I don't have the car here to pop the hood and look. There is no other rust proofing on the car.
The Focus is going into it's 6th winter in southern Ontario, where the cars swim in salt water for 4 to 5 months of the year. There is 325,000 K on the car, and lots of chipped paint on the hood, above the windshield, and especially the lower rear doors. The doors, in particular, have a couple of thumb-nail size chucks out of the paint and are showing bare metal.
Despite the abuse, there is NO rust on any panels or in any of the chips (chunks) anywhere on that car. I have checked under the hood, in the tire well and the trunk, the inside of the doors, and the wheel wells. Again, NO rust at all.
All of that being said, a good installation is what makes anything work well. I have extended family members that haven't had the same experience. I'll know how good the Maple VW install is in a few years.
japedo
Veteran Member
I have rust proofed my Jetta as well, about 4 weeks after buying it.
I did drill one hole in each door, I always apply grease to the plug before inserting it in the hole, and have never had issues. And don't have to remove the door panels and potentially create new rattles using this method.
Used ramps and a couple jack stands to get the car high enough so I could crawl around under it.
Like 993er said, there are big plastic panels under this car that require beig removed to do the job right. Here is what the underside looks like with the plastic removed.
And here is the same shot after the dominion sure seal dripless undercoating is applied with an undercoating gun and the compressor set to 40psi .
So far I have done the complete underside, doors, hood, trunk lid, and rocker panels.
I still want to remove the inner fenders and spray those areas, as well as remove the trunk liner and rear tail lights to gain access to the inner portion of the back of the car.
It's not really messy stuff to work with, but use a respirator, the fumes are bad.
I did drill one hole in each door, I always apply grease to the plug before inserting it in the hole, and have never had issues. And don't have to remove the door panels and potentially create new rattles using this method.
Used ramps and a couple jack stands to get the car high enough so I could crawl around under it.
Like 993er said, there are big plastic panels under this car that require beig removed to do the job right. Here is what the underside looks like with the plastic removed.
And here is the same shot after the dominion sure seal dripless undercoating is applied with an undercoating gun and the compressor set to 40psi .
So far I have done the complete underside, doors, hood, trunk lid, and rocker panels.
I still want to remove the inner fenders and spray those areas, as well as remove the trunk liner and rear tail lights to gain access to the inner portion of the back of the car.
It's not really messy stuff to work with, but use a respirator, the fumes are bad.
Its not one of those modules with a flashing LED to give you hope, is it?
We've discussed those at work and I am sorry to say, those things are useless and a cash cow for dealers pawning them off on poor customers.
What we did test at work in one of our other labs were various rustproofing products. The tests included salt spray chambers, ability to creep, etc.
What I tested in my lab were batteries and battery chargers, the latter being another world of glorious claims. Man, the things the marketing people with no technical background promise you on their packaging.
My recently sold fifteen year old CR-V that went to a friend was totally rust-free and if he continues with Krown, it'll be rust free at year twenty. I will bet that cannot be said with an electronic module.
The vast majority of cars nowadays do not rust in six or even eight years. They are well protected. I too had a paint chip form the first year to the fifteenth year with no rust...if it does not break through to bare metal, the zinc primer will prevent rusting.
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I used to on the Honda CR-V. It took well under 4 minutes to remove each door panel and it was so well thought out, there was no chance of breaking anything.
A few days ago, I watched a YouTube video of a door panel being removed on a Mk6 Jetta. After viewing that, the panels are staying on.
I miss the CR-V when it comes to that. All I did was drive it up on a couple of pieces of 2 x 12 and I had plenty of room under it. I sprayed the Jetta curbside; no way I was messing up my spotless garage.
What spray gun applicator are you using?
japedo
Veteran Member
That's funny, I actually built a new house 2 years ago and am renting my old house to one of my best friends. So I left all my tools setup there, keeps the mess outa the new house
The spray gun I baught 4 years ago from princess auto, 30$ I think.
It's their own product "powerfist" it's not top quality but works fine for the job.
Holds 750ml. And I use a suction device to refill it from the 5 gallon bucket.
Rubber gloves are a must!