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Jetta/Bora/Vento TDI Picture Gallery Do you have a Jetta/Bora/or Vento TDI? If so write a message here describing it and insert a picture if you have one. If you don't have one on the computer, email me and I'll give you my address and I'll scan it for you. If you need web space for it, email me as well. Please make a short yet descriptive title for your vehicle.

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Old April 5th, 2017, 15:45   #1
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default 2000 Jetta 5spd GLS

This is my first TDI. I've been looking at them for a long time and finally this one popped up on the ole liste.

2000 Jetta GLS 5-speed manual, red
277,777m on the odometer when I first pulled her in the driveway, neat.
It took a few weeks to console myself on mileage. She could have driven to the moon.
I'm not looking to build a high performance car. I'm seeking reliability and efficiency, if I can get some style points I'll take em.

(long post) more of a journal. I'll update when I have something interesting to say.

So, first I had some things to take care of. I bought the car knowing it would need some post-purchase investment.
Known issues at time of purchase:
Valve cover leak, saggy headliner, original clutch, bad struts, cold start issue.
the good:
known history. the guy had a heavy folder of receipts and print-outs and stuff,
timing belts done on time,
new alternator,
new egr,
glowplug harness
"new" injection pump (not sure of the source but he also gave me the old one),
New tires and brakes.
No rust underneath, only minor on hood and fender.

The seller mentioned it had some type of chip that was sent somewhere and had something done to it. not sure about any of this. How do I check?

First thing, Had to Rainex this poor windsheild, new wipers. I went and bought a bunch of tools. Metric sockets, allen socket and wrenches, torx bits, torque wrench, etc. I had to get it safe. He said it needed struts but it was really the control arm bushings. they'd clunk on every stop/go and some shifts.
I went ahead and replaced the struts, control arm, ball joints, tie-rod ends, sway-bar links, and steering bellows. All Moog stuff from Rock Auto. LCA came with bushings and greasable ball joints already installed. The struts already had new springs installed. Knowing what I know now I may have shopped for something more appropriate for the car, but they work well and make the car feel stable. Raised it about 2-3 inches, has settled a bit now.

I followed the tutorials on this and other forums and it wasn't that hard to figure out. I did run into a few snags. I didn't have the right tool to loosen the top strut nut, (even after I went tool shopping). I ended up using a deep socket (21mm?) held with visegrips and an allen key w/cheater bar stuck through the hole to hold the stud. The new moog strut mounting stud would be different.
The front bolt on the lower control arm was trouble too. It felt like it wouldn't thread into the nut "welded" inside the sub-frame. That's when i read that you should not tap the bolt in with a hammer to avoid the risk of losing that nut inside the sealed cavity. a nightmare scenario. turns out I had this bolt mixed up with the strut pinch bolt which is a bit shorter. No problem here. When i got to the driver side, I did, most definitely used a hammer to tap in the front bolt and most definitely lost the nut down inside the sealed mounting cavity. dang. and many other words. After a lot of fumbling and getting nowhere I decided to quit for the night. But I wanted to try something, i was able to suspend the nut in place with a pick long enough to get some superglue on the side in hopes it would hold enough to get the bolt started. I put the bolt in without the control arm just to hold the nut to let the glue set overnight. I felt this was in vain, it was very cold.
You know how it is you can't get your mind off of it, so I exploited the forums and youtube for ideas and brainstormed myself to sleep.
The next morning, I checked and the glue did not hold at all. (JB weld would have worked if I'd had any, so try that if you run into the same problem).
I ended up using a coat hanger fashioned precisely to cradle the nut as I carefully got everything together. Had to have the wife help, it was a delicate operation. success.
Got her lined up and no more clunk, tight turns, stable on the highway at 70+. Oh yea, After i was done I reviewed the tutorial and realized i was supposed to replace the control are and strut pinch bolt with new ones. They are one-time-use. So I ordered the new ones and did the whole thing over again. Very "educational".
Next would be to change the oil and transmission fluid. Straight-ahead, no issues. New magnetic drain plug and copper washer. No visible contaminates in the oil. It does burn some, and leak some. I torqued the valve cover and oil pan to spec. Both had some loose bolts. Seems to help her consumption. Cleaned the aluminum belly pan. I used rotella 5w-40 blue bottle. and for the trans it was in a gray bottle from oriellys. up to spec at least. Shifts a lot easier.
I discovered IDparts and Kerma and those places through these forums. I got all kinds of stuff. So many boxes. I'll try to remember everything.
I changed the fuel filter w/diesel purge and air filter (KnN out. mann in). cleaned oil from MAF. they first sent me Liquimoly Oil treatment, when i called about an exchange they just sent to Diesel Purge at no cost and let me keep the oil treatment. Haven't used it yet, anybody have experience?

Now I begin chasing this cold start issue.
The previous owner showed me how to unplug the coolant temp sensor and it'll start up no problem. If the engine is warm it starts fine with the sensor installed. if it sits for a few hours it'll turn over till the battery dies. If I jump start it, it fires right up. He put a new green CTS in, and new GP harness. I'll post my odb codes later. I don't have Vag-com.

It'll get a timing belt as soon as I have the money. There's a guy within a few hours who is on the trusted mechanics list and comes highly recommended. I'm sure he can help me. Maybe whoever replaced the IP didn't set the timing correctly.

New battery. old one was 8 years old. no change. i'm not convinced it's powerful enough, may upgrade. I'll add specs later.
New glow plugs. Bosch from kerma or id
replaced vacuum tube to turbo and that valve, seemed to help it's power a little. beginning to hear the whistle outside the car.
Had a cheap muffler put on, the previous owner removed the original, chasing low power I think. New one, i wish i could remember what it was. guy at the shop said it was low flow to help the turbo. helped its sound a little, gets throaty on the boost. still has cat. Wonder what it would do with no cat but keep the muffler.

Then I had it out of town for a month with a 40min twice-daily commute. It did good. I still had to do the trick to start it if it sat for more that a couple hours. I had several two hour, 55mph, no red light trips. It did great, for the most part. 46mpg was the best i got (w/PS 5th gear no breaks cruise control, some hills).
It did do a couple of weird things. Two cold mornings, 10f or so, with cts unplugged and even 5 full cycles of glow, still excessive cranking to start (like 10-15 min). First time I had under half tank no additive parked facing up hill so that day I got some power service and filled up and parked facing down hill. Same thing. Eventually started at ran like usual.
A few days later I got a flashing glow plug light, no other symptoms. Quantity adjuster upper limit code. This happened about 25f, 1/4 tank. So i freaked out searching for answers and pricing injector pumps and hondas that night. GP light still flashing in the morning, fill up with fuel. No more flashing GP light. don't scare me like that old girl.

I get back home no problem. Still chasing cold start issue (CSI)
Also, there's some hesitation (missing) above 70mph. or sustained med rpm (2800+) under load. Thinking fuel restriction. no lift pump on this one. Drill out check valve in the tank sender unit. no change in starting or high speed miss. Plan to inspect, pull and clean the intake manifold. I looked through the Anti-Shudder valve and it didn't look terrible. Might get a cheap usb boroscope and get a good look before tearing into it.
Thinking maybe the starter just isn't turning the engine fast enough. It fires good with a jump. Was going to rebuild the starter but it was not in bad shape so i just cleaned all the connections. may have helped a bit. Might try a higher CCA rated battery i think the new one i got from oriellys is rated at 770cca maybe 40ah. We'll see how the timing belt and professional consultation go.

Then there's the interior. First we gave it a good cleaning. Black leather is not bad, some scratches but no rips. Some of the interior plastic is scratched, i think it's called soft touch and i hear it can be cleaned up with alcohol. Alpine stereo and infinity speakers sound good. CD, Radio, USB, Bluetooth, Aux. Still need some type of sub. Bought a kit to fix the glove box door, need to get one for the console armrest lid.
The headliner is sagging, can't wait to replace it with leather or something like that. cup holders are hanging on for dear life.
The shifter knob was peeling and just too temping on a long drive. Got a nice simulated wood grain on amazon for $15~. Really classed her up. once i clean that plastic and do the headliner she'll be sleek.

As for the future, again, I'm not looking to build a hotrod. Just a nice daily driver, not that I wouldn't mind some power. We'll figure it out as we go.

After the timing belt is probably a new clutch. I'll have to decide on what kind of power I'm going to end up with. I also don't want it too hard to drive because the wife needs to learn the manual sooner or later. right now it's so easy to engage, almost no accelerator is needed, just a bump. Might have to do with the dual mass flywheel, I'll have to decide on that too. May switch to a single mass. seems to be the consensus. I wonder if those clutch upgrades are rougher to engage (since they grip better, right?) especially switching from smooth friction plate and spring filled fly wheel to sticky plate and a single wheel. Needs some wheels and some paint too. both are close to last on the list.

Although the stereo is nice, I think I'd like a double-din. It would modernize it a bit. My buddy had a single din with no cd drive, so the face plate folded down for secret storage behind. It would be cool to find a double din like that.
Also all those surrounding pieces need something. There are kits for this.
New window tint, old is peeling in the back.

Other ideas. I may or may not give these a second though but figured I'd share.
- Somewhere I saw a write up about using a tablet (ipad or android) as a stereo/gps/etc. That could be cool and maybe easier than it seems. I could see someone creating a custom interface with widgets and apps. Maybe even work VCDS into it somehow.
-A pillar "gauges"
-Backup camera monitor/gps. Maybe put this in the lowest position and use a bigger housing than a normal round gauge. Having it right next to the driver door mirror would be nice along with some good backup lights.
-Compass/temp: Maybe a custom digital display three digit coolant temp or outside temp, compass letters. A ring of leds that act like a needle gauge (ya know, sweep-like)could work as the compass too. Maybe asking too much but there might be something already available.
-third slot could be boost/egt, fuel economy,
Another idea, hook up some lights to whatever controls the boost and/or tach so they brighten as rpm/boost climbs. Maybe even have rpm control blue lights in the foot wells and maybe white fades in as you build boost. could put these lights anywhere, thinking led strip lights. Thought about putting a ring around the cluster, some up under the dash.
And I definitely need better light in the trunk.
Maybe a roof rack for our kayaks.

I do really like the car, and my wife loves how comfortable the seats are. It's an awesome road trip vehicle. I'm a drummer and I can fit all my stuff in the trunk with the back seat laid down. The fuel mileage makes it worth it to play some of these out-of-town gigs. It's just fun to drive, and once I get the timing belt taken care of we'll put some serious miles on her.

A few things to add. 4/2017
I replaced all the vacuum hoses with generic from rock auto, also a vacuum check valve from id. The old stuff was frayed pretty bad. The car ran a lot better. Smooth idle, solved the "missing" at highway speeds. Fairly easy to do. Replace one at a time and confirm the routing with the diagram. This gave me the biggest improvement in how it ran since I got the car. It cost about $20.
Took it through the car wash and lost a turn signal cover. Ordered replacement and upgraded cup holders.
I installed a switch to disconnect the CTS. I had the wire and switch laying around.
I've removed the check valve in the fuel sender. no change but this could have caused my starting issue when it was cold out, 10f.
Replaced Brake booster vacuum hose and check valve. old one was split (no change)

Thanks for sitting through the epic. Any thoughts or advise is welcome, as long as you're courteous.

Last edited by djembeing; April 5th, 2017 at 16:54. Reason: additions and grammer
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Old April 5th, 2017, 16:51   #2
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default a set back?

Had the car out of town again. I began to allow myself to think that the car was doing very well. The two hour drive was smooth and effortless. It was very nice out, 65-70f. I put the windows down and opened the sunroof around town. I made the mistake of bragging to my friend about the ole TDi. not 10 minutes later I get a bit of a hesitation around 40mph. Then she dies on me at a stop light. Starts up again so I figure I better get to where I'm staying asap as possible.. She's smoking more than usual. The idle is all wacky. She dies at the foot of the hill and this time it takes a few tries to get started again. We power up the hill. Tach is jumping all over the place. puffs of dark smoke.
Bad fuel? I had filled up (from 1/4 tank) the previous week at a busy station I've used plenty of times. Used Power Service, and had run through half a tank no problem.
I had a flashing Glow Plug light, and some QA codes in addition to my normal GP CTS codes. Also flashing oil warning light, level on dip stick was normal and no typical sounds of low oil/pressure.
(no VCDS) (receive turn signal cover and cup holders...)
Give up for the evening, let it cool, try again tomorrow...
Starts normally, still flashing GP. After a few minutes it starts to miss again. I don't really want to tear into it in my friends driveway so I arrange a trailer and my super hero of a dad to haul me home.
Now home, I poke around on it hoping the injection pump is ok. Remember, the previous owner had it replaced. I don't know where he got it but it's a bosch 10mm. I pulled the timing cover and the belt doesn't seem terribly old, still tight, I guess.
I disconnected the wiring harness to the IP and cleaned it with contact cleaner. Also, wiggled the thermostatic T on the fuel filter, maybe seating it a little better.
Car seems to run normally for the most part since those last few things. Let it sit running in the driveway, ok. a few small bubbles in the clear fuel line, I don't know what is normal. Took it around the block several times, ok. I cleared the codes (took a screenshot first), ok. I'll let it sit for the night and see what happens tomorrow. I think I'll order a new thermostatic T and 109 relay just for good measure. Might work on cleaning that intake soon also. And, I think it might be a good idea to go through and thoroughly clean some electrical connections.
I must keep in mind that this thing is a project.
And, still need to schedule a timing belt. I've learned that the guy near me is on hiatus. I wish him well and sincerely hope things work out well for him.

Last edited by djembeing; April 5th, 2017 at 18:05.
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Old April 7th, 2017, 16:10   #3
Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Windsor, ON, Canada

Good detailed account of your troubleshooting!

key with these cars is to understand what they need to run, like a gas car needs fuel, spark, air in the correct time - it runs. diesel is much the same, fuel air and TIME TIME TIME. so when it fails to start up, you gotta figure out what it's missing. Timing I suppose is about right since it drives ok and starts ok when warm. air you have to assume is getting there unless the intake mani is plugged, but if you have decent power the rest of the time, again - can assume air is getting in. so fuel, you've done a good bit of work with the sending unit and all that. Since your symptoms are so intermittent, very carefully check the wiring. The wiring is absolute crap on these cars and I've had more than a few wires broken off right at the connector (they would pull right out), insulation broken off, and insulation burned off. So focus on the electrical portion of the IP. fuel temp sensor or something along those lines could be messed up, which is why when you unplug the ECT the readings for the ECT and the fuel temp sensor match up in the ECU and the ECU provides the correct amount of fuel to start you off. and when I say messed up, I am more inclined to think the wiring as opposed to the sensor itself.

also, there is a ground under the wipers that the ECU is grounded to - I had inexplicable codes until I cleaned that ground location. and it didn't even 'look' bad.

so do all that free stuff before you throw more money at the car without clear reason.
FOR SALE!!00 TDI Golf 5spd, satin silver GTI tails w/ 5 light brake mod 20AE springs Bilstein SS shocks 17 Long Beach Altas skid plate clear repeaters short antenna Clarion deck G60/VR6 clutch
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Old April 7th, 2017, 16:10   #4
Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Windsor, ON, Canada

oh and PICTURES we all love pictures!
FOR SALE!!00 TDI Golf 5spd, satin silver GTI tails w/ 5 light brake mod 20AE springs Bilstein SS shocks 17 Long Beach Altas skid plate clear repeaters short antenna Clarion deck G60/VR6 clutch
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Old April 19th, 2017, 15:51   #5
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default New developments

Ok we seem to be running well, for the most part. Still have to use my CTS switch when cold. I was still getting the oil pressure warning on the first cold start. It'll go away after a few minutes. Cleaned connection, no change. Engine doesn't sound low on pressure. I've been maintaining a good oil level (known leak, likely vacuum pump/ valve cover). No ticking. Plenty of oil on inside of filter cap, read here somewhere to look there as an indicator of at least some oil pressure. Dipstick level has been good.
Got some new stuff from ID parts and Aaron Rodriguez.
Oil Pressure Sender (no change)
I clean the ECM ground connection under the cowl.(thanks bbarbulo) (no change) I pressed on the ECM connections and they seemed to settle a bit as if they were loose (clicked in)(no change)
109 Relay. Old one was black, probably original, new was gray and a bit smaller. It went in with the numbers upside down (maybe) (no change)
Broke Hood Pull.... rigged with paracord (bought new)
Also randomly getting the brake pad wear sensor. Just another ding to get my blood pressure up. I have the connector bridged. wonder if it might share a connector with the oil pressure sensor somewhere upstream.
So I've been breaking the bank driving the Jeep out of town. More for the wife's peace of mind. The VW hasn't died or had the sporadic idle since cleaning the IP harness connection (recommended, easy). It's running really well. However, we have the oil warning on a cold start. Oh, actually the other day I started it and within a second or two I revved it to about 2000-2500. the oil warning did not chime this time. I've read that the sensor only checks in with the engine going faster than ~1500, confirm. Maybe the quick little rev gave the oil pump a little boost enough to wake up the sensor?
Also, Got a new vacuum pump seal, I read there are two seal that can leak. One on the left and another in the middle of the pump (i read that an old oil filter ring might work). and the fitting that the brake booster hose goes onto seems loose. Read a post on these forums about sealing that.
ALSO now dealing with a power steering leak. I believe I've tracked it to the driver side hose connection to the rack. big wet spot and pooling under the steering boot. I'm hoping its not the rack itself. I have a reciept from a previous owner that says the inner tie rods were replaced. Fluid seems to be coming from above. right behind the lower banjo fitting. Most here seem to recommend a whole new hose. I think I'll try new washers first (torque spec?) clean surfaces and fresh, correct fluid. I don't know what he had in it. I've been using Prestone for European cars to top it off (says it's CHF 11s).
Let's see, did I break anything else? Yes, I replaced my side marker that disappeared in the car wash, the old one fell apart in my hand. Old plastic.
I redid the bridge on the brake wear sensor, exposed more copper, sanded, twist, heat shrink, tape.
Got my new cup holders installed, very easy, one clip on either side, slide out old, slide in new. It looks better. In some ways I think I liked the old one better, the solid piece with two holes. The new one seems only a bit stronger and while the robotic arms allow it to hold bigger drinks, my water bottle seems to flop around more. but power steering and a timing belt are a little more important.
Ordered the adhesive for my headliner, too. Thinking of going with leather (fake, cheap) The rest of the interior is black leather except the shifter is wood grain. I keep leaning towards brown leather for the ceiling and pillars. Wife says it might look weird, brown and black, might get a brown leather steering wheel cover to help blend it. I'll also need to paint all the gray plastic headliner pieces. Black, I guess. Or matching brown would look better. We'll see. And now that it's getting warm outside I'll need to freshen up the sunroof. One must hold the switch (rocked) forward to get it to shut all the way. (neat trick - if your sunroof won't close all the way, instead of using the manual crank, turn the dial to closed and press the front of the dial up into the ceiling and it'll override that pinch protection.) (And when loading a vw onto a trailer, you may have to climb out the window, put your key in the door and hold in the lock position, it'll roll up all the windows and sunroof. Same to roll them down to climb back in.)
So, I'll fix my PS leak, maybe get to cleaning the intake (kind of counting on breaking something), save for my timing belt, and ID has clutch kits on sale, must resist.
I'll try to get some pictures organized and posted. I know my posts are long-winded so I commend you for making it this far. These forums have saved me countless times so I figured I'd add my story. Hope something I've done helps someone else.
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Old April 25th, 2017, 08:29   #6
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY

A few things to add:
So my steering rack sprung a leak. Pooling on the driver side sub frame. I thought it was the high pressure hose fitting (19mm) so I replaced the washers. I used some copper washers I got from ID for the oil drain plug. perfect fit. Had the lady watch the driver side end of the rack while I turned the wheel and she saw fluid squirting from the boot. Failed rack seal. Removed the boot, btw when I replaced the front suspension the steering boots were pretty much non-existent (replaced with moog). I watched the seal as she turned the wheel, every turn left a few drops of fluid on the outside of the seal. The previous owner had the inner tie rods replaced, still had the stickers. I'm sure he used the wrong fluid. It was dark rusty brown (supposed to be green).
So, this week I'll be ordering a new rack.
Least expensive NEW one I could find. And I like their videos. Free shipping, lifetime warranty, no core charge. I'll have a used BAD rack to add to my old parts pile.
I've reviewed a few tutorials and videos on the procedure. Shouldn't be too difficult, then again, I'm the reason for Murphy's Law.
I'm wondering if anyone knows a good source for all the bolts that I should be replacing. Seems like I'm seeing $10 bolts everywhere. Some people reuse the old ones but (murphy's law) I wouldn't mind replacing at least the subframe mounting bolts. But $10/bolt? I'll pay what I need to for peace of mind but geez.
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Old April 25th, 2017, 08:30   #7
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY

Side note, I've seen some videos and thread posts about jack stand vs cinder block etc. Good jack stand should be a mechanics first purchase. I've known of some tragedies taking place because somebody wanted to save $20 or even had the stand on the other side of the garage but for some reason decided to use blocks or (stupid-idiot) just using the jack. Take one minute and throw a proper jack stand under there. Also, if I need to get underneath, I support the car with stands under the PROPER factory support area. (you'll see a little dent on the rocker under the front of the front door) Make sure it isn't rusty. Also, put the tire you removed under there as an added buffer, chock the wheels (in front and behind), Set the e-brake. Maybe use a block as yet an addition catch in case something fails. Learn from other peoples mistakes. There's nothing macho about broken ribs or a crushed skull. It won't save you any time or effort walking on crutches. Seriously, I know this sound like a lecture but take heed. There are no shortcuts to be taken when working underneath. If using ramps, chock the wheels, set e-brake, Manual in gear (auto in park). Only go under from the front, so if it rolls it doesn't roll over you.
Good Thread. Should be everyone's first read.

Last edited by djembeing; April 25th, 2017 at 08:32.
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Old May 7th, 2017, 18:03   #8
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default Rack installed, and new smoke?

Ok. Got my new steering rack installed. I used these threads.
This procedure actually went fairly smoothly for me. Took me all day, I try to be very careful and thorough, especially when dealing with important stuff like steering and suspension. There was a lot of running from one side of the car to the other. I felt the need to do things symmetrically. The only thing I had trouble with was getting the banjo bolt for the top hose to go in straight. no biggie. The new rack only took maybe a half liter of fluid (pentosin 11s). I've bleed the air out and driven a considerable amount with no bubbles or foam in the reservoir. My new rack must have been filled with fluid or something from the factory. The rack from 1A auto fit perfectly. There was what seemed to be marks from the manufacturing process on the banjo mating surfaces but I went with it and have detected no leaks. I used new bolts on the subframe and the dogbone as well as new washers on the banjo fittings. All that was from ECS tuning, 80 some dollars in bolts and fluid, plan for that.
The car seemed to drive straight but my steering wheel was 1/8 of a turn off to the left, alignment guy straightened me out.
There's still a very minor miss/stutter at certain points on the tach.
So, the car needs to build my confidence up. I decided just to drive it around for a few hours. Everything seems to be fine. I did notice something though.
I was on the highway doing 70 mph, I'd let off the go pedal (in gear) to slow down a bit and when I press the pedal down again, it's like there's no response until I get to (say) halfway, and I get a puff of white smoke. enough to get my attention. Enough to get that Mercedes to pass me in disgust.
Maybe I can explain it better. I know we use a drive by wire pedal position sensor. So, I'm cruising in gear and let off the accelerator to slow down, when I get back on the accelerator it does nothing until it reaches the point at which I let off the pedal, and I get some white smoke. The longer I keep the pedal out past the point where I let off, the more smoke there is.
I don't remember the pedal response behaving like this before the IP wiring harness connector issue, (that was wildly rpm jumping, smoking brown, and dieing. cleaned IP harness connection and back to normal. except for this pedal deal and maybe some minor stutter at certain rpms)
I'm sure I would have noticed this before. Is it normal? I can drive in a fashion to were it doesn't puff the white smoke but it seems abnormal and I'd like to know what's going on. Another way to describe it might be that the tachometer and the pedal sweep are locked. So, pedal all the way out is idle, pedal halfway down is ~2500rpm. So I'm driving 70mph at (idk) 2500rpm, I let my foot off the pedal to coast in gear, tach still at ~2500rpm maybe a litte below since I slowed down, I reapply my foot with no change in rpm until ~halfway through the pedal sweep then the pedal increases rpm. and I get a puff of white smoke. The longer the pedal is held under ~2500rpm the more smoke I get. If I push quickly through that first half I get no smoke. It does NOT do this in cruise control.
No codes. My thinking is that while I coast, the wheels/transmission are keeping the RPMs up and the pedal still puts fuel into the engine but doesn't completely burn it until the pedal reaches the point at which it matches the rpms. Somewhere in my searching, a post mentioned that the fuel can burn in a way that it makes white ash, or something to do with that catalytic converter and ash.
I know white smoke usually means coolant but the level hasn't changed. Oil level seems normal too. I check these thing very often. (I'll check the intercooler for excess oil soon, has been fine)
In my previous posts I mention what I thought was an oil pressure alarm, turns out I was mistaken and it was the coolant level alarm. I'd known the coolant level was right at the end of the sensor in the coolant tank. Added a little and no more alarm. I think there was a minor change in the coolant level due to temperature/season change. I don't think its dropping fast enough to be the head gasket or anything like that. Time will tell. FYI the flashing thermometer icon means low coolant, a solid icon means your overheating.
(sorry my posts end up so long, these forums have helped me in so many ways I figure my limited experience may help someone else) and I'll get her cleaned up a bit this week and post some pictures. May even do a sort of video tour.
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Old May 7th, 2017, 19:06   #9
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default and pictures

She looks better in the dark.

This is the material I'm thinking of using from the headliner. Wondering how it will work with the black leather interior.

If your vacuum hoses look like this, replace them. That's where I got my biggest improvement.

This was the tool I made to fish out the front control arm nut that i lost down in the subframe.

This (red arrow) is the car's computer or ECM or ECU. Located under the center of the windshield. Clean that ground (blue arrow), the orange wires bolted to the metal, there will be a nut on there also.
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Old May 12th, 2017, 19:25   #10
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sturgeon Bay, WI

I'm glad to see you're getting things sorted out with your car. IMO a nice black headliner would look better then a cowhide headliner. If you can swing it suede would make for an amazing headliner material.

Keep up the progress and you'll have a fun car that gets awesome fuel economy.
Sturgeon Bay, WI Cruise/GTG October 20th, 2018
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Old June 4th, 2017, 10:05   #11
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY

I thought about black leather to match the seats but I kind of want to brighten it up a little. I've got a fake wood grain shifter and might do brown leather on the steering wheel as well.
All black would look nice but I'm past my punk rock goth phase.
I'm out of town now, when I get home i may dig into that headliner. Also wanting to inspect/clean my injectors. Any tips?
Before I left, I did a few small things. Cleaned egr/anyi-shudder valve. Also I put some stretchy rubber tape around the vacuum pump flange where the brake booster hose attaches. That seemed to help with some of the "missing" that would happen at certain rpms. I'll post some pics, I think you all should try it, cheap and easy.
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Old June 4th, 2017, 10:07   #12
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY

It tries to stall at the first stop with a mile of leaving the house, I can save it by flooring the pedal, get white smoke.
Persistent miss at 2050 RPM
After coasting in gear, getting back on the pedal causes jerking and white smoke until the pedal reaches the position that "matches" the speed. Does it in cruise control too, not as bad. A clutch and rev match work fine. The longer the pedal position is "under" the speed the more smoke and jerkiness there is.

new thread for these issues

I've changed the crank sensor (no change)
New fuel filter with new thermo T, ran Diesel Purge. Bled air.

I'm thinking of tackling this timing belt on my own. I've studied the write ups and videos. I do not have VCDS and will need it for the fine timing adjustment. Maybe someone could drop by when the time comes. I'm in Ashland KY near Huntington WV. Food would be involved. Maybe someone has the system for sale for cheap. I think the mobile version looks cool if it has all the features. I'd dedicate a smart phone or small tablet to the car and do a semi-permanent install. Kind of like this guy. https://youtu.be/RUHSOtlil7oplus VCDS mobile (if the price could come down).

I'd really like to get the drivablity issues sorted out so I can justify some cosmetic work (the danged ole headliner, rusty fender). The car should be a pleasure to drive but currently I have the anxiety that it'll quit in traffic or just not start at some point.

Last edited by djembeing; July 11th, 2017 at 12:18.
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Old September 20th, 2017, 06:38   #13
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY

I removed the injectors and soaked them in diesel purge over night. This helped a bit.
tip- make a slide hammer out of an old tie rod. The tie rod nut fits the top of the injector. Just add a slide-weight. used new copper washers and fuel return lines.

I also reseated the case pressure relief valve. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=238872
This changed things considerably. Made it near impossible to start but it ran better.
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Old September 20th, 2017, 06:57   #14
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default Ross Tech to the rescue

I bought a Ross-Tech Hex V2. Worth it. See my trouble thread.

I'm getting things sorted out. Last night I bumped the timing a bit and she fired right up with the touch of the key. No extended glow, no smoke, no long cranking. I'm so relieved (yet reserved, awaiting the next challenge)
My timing graph seemed to be unstable. Sometimes jumping wildly. The caption sometimes would say "fuel temp too hot". Measuring blocks on fuel temp seemed steady. I get some vibration at idle. Maybe the sensor's readings spike intermittently too quickly for the measuring blocks to react. I'll do some logging and graphing at some point. New fuel temp sensor is cheap and easy.
It runs A LOT BETTER and is a joy to drive.
Thank you Ross-Tech. Thank you TDi Club.

While setting the timing, I noticed the IP sprocket bolts are the one time stretch bolts. I've ordered new ones. Maybe they were trying to slip. Seems like they wouldn't torque to spec. I hope the IP hub is not stripped.
I'm still getting a little "miss" around 2000 rpm and again around 3000. Not as bad as it was but still noticeable. I'll explore things as I learn VCDS better.

And the dome light is acting up. Sometimes it wont come one when I open the door. Also, VCDS showed an airbag fault.
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
No dash light.

I've got another out of town extended gig coming up and after that I should tackle the timing belt. I figure I'll do a high mileage kit from IDparts. In my opinion they are the best vendor.
Thank you all for the advice. I should have listened and got VCDS sooner (first).
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Old October 20th, 2017, 16:24   #15
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: KY
Default So far so good!

I've been letting it settle in for a few weeks and we seem to doing well. I replaced the sprocket bolts on the injection pump.

old and new
You could tell where they were letting the sprocket slip.
I've got the timing set between the middle and top line of the graph but it fluctuates up and down. I also adjusted the injection quantity using the hammer method. It seems to want to fluctuate a little as well. All within spec, measured at operating temp.
theory: maybe a worn injector is popping to soon.
The idle is much more smooth though it'll want to get a little rough on occasion, minor. Not so bad. I have virtually no smoke. If I floor it hard I'll get a little dark fog. Acceptable. I don't want to roll coal anyway.

It does have a little less power. Still goes but not the slight jerk-your-head-back feeling. The timing was retarded before and IQ was closer to 2 (on average). Definitely no chip tune like the PO stated, or i misunderstood.
My persistent miss at 2k rpm is still there but hardly noticeable. and my accessory belt tensioner has calmed itself.

I've also tackled that skanky old headliner. This was quite a task. With the help of my lovely wife we had everything removed in under an hour and without breaking anything. The plan was to paint all the gray plastic to look like wood. She's an artist, we reviewed some videos of model makers and practiced on some old pvc pipe. Looked decent. We scrubbed and degreased everything and let it dry. I stayed up all night brushing the first coat and let it dry. I sanded some grainy texture into everything. The next day I went to test it and it all peeled off like nothing. Wrong paint. Disheartened, I went to wal mart (ugh) and got some nice brown spray paint, Rustoleum made for plastic.
Sprayed a few coats and let it dry overnight. Pleased with the color.


I couldn't think of a good way to redo the labels on the switches so I just painted over them. You kinda memorize what everything does anyway.
The actual head liner was a pain and though it looks A LOT better, my work was not up to par. I got this fake leather stuff on Amazon, vendor fabric.com. It's very nice material but not the type of stretchy needed for the contours of the headliner. A hair dryer helped a little but the depressions for the handles and visors wrinkled badly.
I used 3M spray adhesive made for this purpose. Ended up using two full cans. A bit more than one can for the ceiling and just under one can for the pillars. I ended up using hot glue for wrapping all the edges on the pillars. Follow the directions on the can of 3M, 3 coats sprayed in different directions and let in dry for a few minutes. Lay the material on accurately, once it sticks it'll deform if you pull it off. Sticky stuff.

If I were to do it again I would pick a very hot day (or week) and lay the material out over the headliner backing without glue, directly in the sun and let it sort of conform to the backing. Then glue.

I also ordered LEDs for the interior. Somewhat satisfied. Though the kit specified it would fit my car, only a few fit. Others were totally the wrong style to replace the bulbs. I'll link to the vendor if and when they correct the mistake. Some LEDs glow dimly when powered off. I understand that this is common among these cheap kits. If the vendor can't fix it I'll make up some resistor device or save up for some better LEDs.

I wanted to redo the sun visors also. I've removed all the ugly vinyl and styrofoam. There's a wire frame and wiring for the switch that activates the vanity light when you open the mirror. I've cut some nice wood paneling to sandwich around the frames. Still need to figure out the mirror and light switch. So, driving with no visors currently.

A lot of the wrinkles have smoothed out since being in the car. While somewhat dissappointed, it is a sort of unique style. Makes the "leather" look more authentic (I tell myself).

dash cam (backup cam/smoke monitor)

Shifter, $14 on Amazon. Seems to be holding up well.
I broke the mount on the back of the mirror putting it back in. 2 out of 4 tabs on the socket are gone. I was able to get the retaining ring back in so it's kind of loose but still holds. Eventually I'll shop for an auto-dimming mirror with compass and temperature, maybe integrated dash cam. Also, I routed the microphone for the bluetooth stereo up the A pillar and above the headliner to the overhead console next to the map light switch. looks like a factory mic location.

I'm also looking at some faux wood pedal covers and might get a steering wheel cover also. I have plenty of left over "leather" so might cover the armrest and maybe eventually the door inserts. I'm happy for now, it runs well and looks better than the skanky gray.
Every time it gets me home is a win in my book.

Last edited by djembeing; October 20th, 2017 at 16:35. Reason: clarification
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