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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > Picture Gallery/Specs of Members' TDIs > Jetta/Bora/Vento TDI Picture Gallery

Jetta/Bora/Vento TDI Picture Gallery Do you have a Jetta/Bora/or Vento TDI? If so write a message here describing it and insert a picture if you have one. If you don't have one on the computer, email me and I'll give you my address and I'll scan it for you. If you need web space for it, email me as well. Please make a short yet descriptive title for your vehicle.

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Old June 8th, 2009, 09:59   #16
rocketeer928
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Default Windshield Washer Reservoir Removal

For future access to the upper intercooler and the upper intercooler pipe, I removed the windshield washer reservoir with a 10-mm socket (lower plastic bolt) and 10-mm wrench (upper plastic bolt).

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2003 Jetta GLS TDI with RocketChip RC5-ASV-Euro tune specific to my performance modifications - Platinum Gray

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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 10:07.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:01   #17
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Default Garrett VNT 17/22 Hybrid Turbo Installation

Installed an EGR delete block plate with a new, metal gasket using new 13-mm copper nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb). The plate has a threaded hole for the EGT probe. Wrapped Teflon tape around the lower brass fitting for the EGT probe and installed on the EGR delete block plate until tightly snug with an 11-mm socket.



Placed four new gaskets on the bolt studs of the cylinder head exhaust ports, ensuring that they are in the correct orientation and that the coated, beaded sides face the 17/22 turbo exhaust manifold. I first placed the 17/22 turbo on a piece of cardboard with the exhaust ports facing upward and then lined up each gasket to make sure they lined up. Then one at a time, placed them on the cylinder head exhaust ports.

Worked 17/22 turbo onto the cylinder head bolts from the top of the engine.



Installed the eight new copper 13-mm nuts with new expansion washers to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb), including the exhaust manifold heat shield bracket on the two lower passenger side bolts. I tightened the bolts in the following order: 1-8-7-2-5-4-3-6

Reinstalled the exhaust manifold heat shield with two new copper 13-mm nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb). I used two washers from the removed turbo, since the Bentley manual shows the washers. I had to slightly bend downward the bottom of the heat shield to fit in its bracket.



Using a new paper gasket, reinstalled the turbo oil return line with a 22-mm wrench until good and tight and a 5-mm Allen socket to 15 Nm (11 ft-lb). I used a little fresh oil to keep the paper gasket in place during the installation. I also added a little fresh oil into the 17/22 turbo oil inlet for the initial start-up.
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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 13:19.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:03   #18
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Default Lower Intercooler Pipe Installation

At this point I discovered that the hose from the 17/22 turbo to the lower intercooler pipe must be installed prior to tightening down the exhaust manifold. On the 17/22 turbo, the air outlet rests up against the engine block. There was absolutely no clearance for the lower hose and its hose clamp. Therefore, I had to loosen all of the exhaust manifold nuts. Ugh!!



Removed the lower intercooler bolt with a 10-mm socket because upon fitting I discovered that the lower intercooler pipe was slightly too long, and I did not want to cut it shorter. Installed the new lower intercooler pipe from the 17/22 turbo to the intercooler. I had to use a regular screw clamp for the hose that attaches to the 17/22 turbo because I did not have a small enough stainless steel T-bolt hose clamp. My hope is that the screw clamp will hold since it was going to be tight up against engine block due to the non-existent clearance described above. I have smaller stainless steel T-bolt hose clamp on order, just in case… The intercooler is moved out slightly because of the length of the lower intercooler pipe. Stainless steel T-bolt hose clamps were used for all other connections. The rubber grommet for the 10-mm lower intercooler bolt was removed so that the bolt could be reinstalled, which was difficult. Tightened until snug.





Once the lower intercooler pipe was installed, the nuts on the exhaust manifold were re-tightened to 25 Nm (18 ftlb).
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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 13:23.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:06   #19
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Default Stainless Steel 2˝-inch Downpipe and CAT-back Exhaust System Installation

Lubricated all the rubber exhaust system mount holders with silicone lubricant. Loosely installed the downpipe and dual pipe CAT‑back exhaust system by loosely attaching onto the brackets. It was immediately obvious that the pipes were too long, and that there was no way the exhaust system would be easily fitted together.

It took me about 5 hours to install the entire exhaust system, with A LOT of frustration. The exhaust system was definitely not plug-and play. I had to remove about ľ-inch from both the downpipe and the back-end pipe to get a proper fitment. The middle pipe could not be cut on either end because I would not have been able to use the exhaust clamps. After cutting, I loosely fitted all the pipes, two clamps, and brackets. I tightened the nuts and bolts in the following order:
  1. Downpipe to exhaust manifold with new copper nuts with a 13-mm socket to 25 Nm (18 ft‑lb). One of the nuts I had to hand tighten to firmness because my torque ratchet would not fit with any combination of 13‑mm sockets and extensions
  2. Front support mount to the downpipe with a 13-mm socket to 25 Nm (18 ft‑lb)
  3. Middle support mount with a 13-mm wrench hand tightened because my torque ratchet would not fit
  4. Exhaust clamp between the downpipe and the middle pipe with an 11/16-inch long impact socket to 40 Nm (30 ft‑lb)
  5. Front and rear muffler mounts (no muffler) with 13-mm socket to 25 Nm (18 ft‑lb)
  6. Exhaust clamp between the middle pipe and the end pipe with an 11/16-inch long impact socket to 40 Nm (30 ft‑lb)

I had to use a box-cutting knife on the lower bumper skirting, since the down-turned exhaust tip was still too long. Also, the middle and end pipe are slightly crooked, which I believe is because the mounting bars were welding on in the wrong places. I am considering grinding down the tip to make it appear straight.







The twist on the middle bracket can be seen here.





Definitely crooked here!!
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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 13:34.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:07   #20
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Default Emission Gas Temperature (EGT) Probe Installation

Fed the EGT probe through the firewall grommet above the acceleration pedal. Placed the brass fitting and ferrule onto the EGT probe and bent the probe very slightly. Using Teflon tape on the threads, pushed the probe into the EGR delete block plate connector as far as it would go, which bends the probe. Actually, I had to remove the EGR delete block plate to get the probe to bend properly, and re-tighten to 25 Nm (18 ft‑lb). Tightened the brass fitting with a 7/16-inch wrench until snug.

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2003 Jetta GLS TDI with RocketChip RC5-ASV-Euro tune specific to my performance modifications - Platinum Gray

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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 13:41.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:10   #21
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Default Braided Steel Turbo Oil Supply Line Installation

Removed the oil line connection union from the top of the 17/22 turbo to replace it with the braided oil line connection union.



The original union has a copper washer, while the union for the braided line has an O-ring and aluminum washer. A little dab of grease was used to keep the aluminum washer onto the connection union as I installed it on top of the 17/22 turbo with a 14-mm socket to 40 Nm (30 ft‑lb).



The original OEM turbo oil supply line banjo bolt was replaced with the braided oil line connection union, including a washer and O-ring. The transmission was in the way to use my torque wrench, so I tightened with a 17-mm socket with a 3/8‑inch ratchet until as tight as possible.



Reinstalled the rear clamp mounting bracket for the braided turbo oil supply line with 13-mm socket to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb). Placed the upper clamp on the oil line. Fed the braided oil line to the top of the 17/22 turbo and hand threaded, which was difficult. Fed the braided oil line to the lower oil connection union and hand threaded. Removed the vacuum reservoir with an 8-mm wrench. Tightened the upper and lower unions with a 15-mm wrench. Reinstalled the upper and lower securing clamps on the braided oil line with a 10-mm socket to 10 Nm (7 ft-lb), and reinstalled the vacuum reservoir.



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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 13:44.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:14   #22
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Default Intake Manifold & Dieselgeek Race Pipe Installation

A new gasket was used on the intake manifold with the raised, beaded side facing the manifold. Placed Nr. 1, 2, and 6 hex bolts into the intake manifold and its gasket prior to installing on the cylinder head. Hex bolts Nr. 1 and 2 need to be preinstalled because of the exhaust manifold heat shield. Threaded all 6 bolts by hand. I don’t have long hex sockets, so hand tightened with a 6-mm Allen wrench and hollow metal tubing to torque to a good, firm tightness in the following order: Bolt Nr. 5, 2, 1, 6, 3, and 4. Re-check tightening. I had to remove and then re-install the upper braided turbo oil supply line clamp.



Reinstalled the 2-bolt vacuum line bracket onto the intake manifold with a 5-mm Allen wrench.

Removed the brass boost gauge tubing connector from the DG race pipe with an 11-mm long socket.



Installed McNally boost gauge external pressure sensor connector onto the DG race pipe with an 11/16-inch wrench. The threads were wrapped in Teflon tape.



Applied a thin coat of oil on a new DG race pipe O-ring gasket, and reinstalled with a 5-mm Allen socket to 10 Nm (7 ft-lb).

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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 13:51.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:16   #23
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Default OEM Upper Intercooler Pipe Removal

Unhooked the wire conduit from underneath the OEM upper intercooler pipe.



In the above picture you can see the yellow CAT 2‑µm fuel filter that installed a few weeks before.

Disengaged the spring clamp holding the upper intercooler pipe with a spring clamp tool.



Noted that the headlight wires are above the upper intercooler pipe. Removed the upper intercooler pipe through the hole for the headlight.

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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 13:56.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:18   #24
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Default 2˝-Bar MAP Removal and 3-Bar MAP Installation

Unplugged the connector to the 2˝-Bar MAP. Carefully unscrewed the two Philips screws holding the 2˝-Bar MAP in placed. I had been told that the head of these screws tend to snap, but mine did not.



Picture of the 3-Bar MAP (left) and 2˝-Bar MAP (right).



Installed the 3-Bar MAP. I didn’t seem to need the extra supplied grommet that was supplied, though I kept it just in case… Carefully tightened the screws.
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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 14:04.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:21   #25
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Default Stewart Warner Boost Gauge Removal and McNally Boost/EGT Gauge Installation

Plugged the connector for the external pressure sensor wires into the sensor installed on the DG race pipe, and fed the wires through the firewall.



Carefully removed the 0-30 psi Stewart Warner (SW) boost gauge. Peeled back the rubber/fabric door weather stripping at the top of the A-pillar. Pulled back the top of the A-pillar to view the 2-piece clip. To release the clip, slid the bottom portion out from the top portion with a dental hook. Pulled the A-pillar trim away from the frame. With pliers, remove the top portion of the clip from the frame, which mangled it so that I had to use a new clip upon reinstallation. Here's a link I used to remove clip: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1512666

Removed all the wiring associated with the SW gauge. Using the SW pressure tubing and tape, fed the EGT and external pressure sensor (except black ground) wires up through to the A-pillar trim and through the hole into the gauge pod. Fed the Boost/EGT power and ground wires through the gauge pod hole down to the side fuse area. Inserted all the wires into the gauge connector according to the McNally instructions.

Spliced the Boost/EGT gauge and external pressure sensor black ground wires into the Nr. 31, brown light switch wire, which leads to ground. Using an O-crimp connector, wired the red, 12-volt wire from the Boost/EGT gauge to the 75X switched 12-volt connection underneath the dash. Installed an in-line 10-amp fuse for the 12-volt wire.



To reinstall the A-pillar trim, inserted the top portion of a new clip into the square hole on the trim. Slid the bottom portion of the clip back into place, securing the two-part clip into the trim. Popped the trim back into the frame and reinstalled the rubber/fabric weather stripping.

A-Pillar Clip Part Numbers: 1J0-880-385-A and 1J0-880-287









I sold the SW boost gauge, Perfect Match Blue LED, and the LED regulator.
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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 14:08.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:28   #26
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Default New “Old Man Intake” (OMI) Installation

The OMI had to be fitted to the 17/22 turbo intake and the intake manifold by trial and error.



The blue hose that connects the OMI to the 17/22 turbo had to be fitted at the right depth and angle. About 1˝ inches of the blue hose had to be trimmed off the side that connects to the 17/22 turbo. After fitment, a screw clamp was fitted to the hose and 17/22 turbo connection because I did not have a stainless steel T-bolt clamp that would fit.



A stainless steel T-bolt was fitted to the blue hose and OMI connection. The bolts to secure the OMI to the intake manifold were tightened to a firm tightness with a 10-mm socket.







Placed a little grease on the CCV to OMI connector unit and carefully installed. Plugged in the CCV harness connector and reinstalled the CCV. The hose between the CCV and OMI is a little stretched. I’m going to consider installing a strainer in what is called the “KCTDI-CCV Kit” to help reduce the amount of oil that is allowed into the intake, since I have already eliminated the EGR and its cooler.



Reinstalled the accordion hose between the OMI and air cleaner box using two stainless steel T-bolt clamps, and reinstalled the MAF sensor connector.



Reinstalled the drive axle boot protective shield to the engine block with a 16-mm socket at 35 Nm (26 ft-lb).

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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 14:19.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:30   #27
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Default Upper Intercooler Pipe Installation

The upper intercooler pipe was not long enough to reach the rubber elbow that connects to the DG race pipe. Fortunately, an approx. 3-inch metal tube the same diameter as the upper intercooler pipe was shipped along with the parts (must be a reason don’t you think?). I stretched the OEM rubber hose that went between the OEM air intake tube and the OEM VNT 15 turbo on the extra metal tube and the upper intercooler pipe. This combination provided just enough length to the rubber elbow with the use of an extra stainless steel T-bolt clamp.





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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 14:25.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:33   #28
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Default Reinstallation of Remaining Components

Secured the 3-Bar MAP wire that had ran along the top of the OEM upper intercooler pipe along the power steering hose with cable ties.

Attached the two connectors to the windshield washer reservoir. Reinstalled windshield washer reservoir using a 10-mm socket and 10-mm wrench until snug. Make sure that the windshield washer pump tubing is not trapped underneath the reservoir (found out the hard way).

Made a fresh cut into the vacuum line for the 17/22 turbo actuator and pressed firmly onto the actuator. Loosely secured the actuator vacuum tubing and external pressure sensor wires together next to the firewall with a cable tie.



Reinstalled the driver’s side plastic fender cover with T20 screws.

Substituted the side marker bulbs with amber bulbs.

Reinstalled headlights. The right headlight was difficult to reinstall because the upper intercooler pipe interferes. Gentle persuasion was applied...

Reinstalled bumper, including new, clear side markers. Amber side marker bulbs: Sylvania Bulb Nr. 2827

Reinstalled grille, left, front wheel, driver’s side headlight cover.

Reconnected the negative battery terminal and reinstalled the battery cover.

Reinstalled the engine side shields. I had to trim a little off of the passenger engine side shield to accommodate the lower intercooler pipe.

Lowered the car off of the jack stands and torque the left, front wheel to 120 Nm (89 ft-lb).

Pushed the car out of the garage and placed on the front jack stands again.

The car started right up. Checked for air, exhaust, and oil leaks, and there didn’t appear to be any such leaks.

I tried to replace my 0.756 fifth gears with the 0.658 fifth gears to lower the rpm on the highway. However, over the course of three days and help from fellow TDIers, I simply could not remove the T60 selector gear bolt. I even tried heating the gear and using a very long breaker bar. I ended up reinstalling the few parts I did remove, putting the transmission cover back on, and refilling with fresh transmission fluid. I had to take my car to my local garage (Farnbacher Loles in Danbury, CT) to install this fifth gear, and the car is at the garage still (June 5, 2009) because I managed to damage a C-clip while heating the gear. Very disappointed that I could not do this job myself. I learned from my mechanic that I should have heated the bolt I wanted to remove, rather than the gear around the bolt.



I ordered more stainless steel T-bolt clamps of sizes that I did not already have, since the car has two screw clamps that I had to install. I don’t intend to replace the screw clamp holding the hose from the 17/22 turbo to the lower intercooler pipe unless a problem occurs. To do so would mean loosening the exhaust manifold and 17/22 turbo, which I would rather not do.

However, I did decide to replace the screw clamp that was installed on the blue hose for the 17/22 turbo intake from the OMI. The new T-bolt clamp was a tight fit to install, but it did finally go on. To install, I had to remove the two 10-mm bolts holding the OMI to the intake manifold. Upon reinstallation of the OMI, I managed to strip both of the threads on the aluminum intake manifold with the 10-mm bolts. Ugh! I was able to drill out the top hole with a Ľ-inch drill bit, thread the hole, and install a heli-coil insert. However, the other stripped hole is on the side of the intake manifold and cannot be reached with a drill. I tried to fix the problem by hand, but with no success. Maddening… So, I will be forced to remove the intake manifold once again to install the heli-coil insert. I did recently purchase long metric hex sockets, which I am hoping will make removal easy and installation to the correct torque setting.

I plan to install a Eurojet Side-Mount Intercooler and Vented Fender Housing very soon.

So far, I have been driving my Jetta TDI rather carefully. I don’t want to over-boost the new 17/22 turbo. I plan to have the car tuned with the RocketChip RC4 software on June 20th.
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Last edited by rocketeer928; July 22nd, 2017 at 14:30.
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:46   #29
JettaJake
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I cannot see the pictures ('cause I am at work) but will look when at home this evening -- we have nearly identically modded cars, btw (did I miss mudflaps/splashguards? )
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Old June 8th, 2009, 10:52   #30
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Wow. That's some dedication to modification documentation. Basically one giant DIY thread!

Thanks for sharing, nice job on the mods. Bet you can't wait for the RC tuning!
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