Here it the tdiclub version of the
how to.
As far as the one you posted, it's good, but here are some things I noted.
Step 9 - You only need to remove the pancake hose from the intercooler side, not both.
Step 17 - Engine support brace. From my experience, and I have done about 50 of them and I am not a mechanic doing this as a job, you will find it waaay easier to use the hydraulic jack with a piece of 2x4 to lift and lower the engine from the oil pan. The pan will support the weight if spread out like that.
Plus, turning those big screws on the brace creates dust/metal particles from the wear between the nut and washer that aim for the cam and liters. Yeah. no bueno.
Step 22 - You will want to remove the harmonic pulley off first before dealing with bracket. I take the pulley and belt covers while the bracket is still on. I don't usually remove the bracket out entirely; it just sits down and mostly out of the way.
I would have an extractor kit ready during this phase. I find these bolts are often overtorqued and can be difficult to get off. Usually there is the one bolt that refuses to budge.
Step 32 - Water pump removal. It didn't go into any detail on removal, but i would recommend you back out the three 10 mm bolts about halfway. Then use a slightly angled pry bar to pry up on the pully using the bolt heads as the fulcrum point. Just work your way around and it will walk out of the bore. Have a catch pan because there will be more water spilling.
Step 34 - Inspect the surface of the water pulley hole. I use scotchbrite to clean up the surface. Often there is the blank residue of previous orings, and god forbid, any RTV. You don't use sealant on this.
Step 37 - Crankshaft seal - this is not part of a timing belt service.
Step 40 - Camshaft seal - Nothing was even said on how to. It's not anything like doing the crankshaft seal.
1) Remove the end camshaft cap by carefully removing the two 13mm nuts.
2) tap and pry up the cap evenly off the studs.
3) Push out the seal
4) clean the nose of the camshaft of any oil
5) If are using a conventional seal lightly lubricate the camshaft part where the seal will go. If you are using a teflon seal, don't lubricate it and install it using the plastic tool that comes with it.
6) Install cap and torque nuts to 15ft lbs.
Step 41 - Don't install the two small rollers just yet. You can do this after the belt is on, but prior to getting the tension set.
Step 48 - The how to never mentions the tensioner tab should go in the square hold behind it. Failure to do that can cause the tensioner to lose its ability to tension AND worse, it will not be able to apply the correct tension.
Step 49 - The consensus is to torque this to 38ft lbs nowadays. The cam can handle it and it will ensure no slippage.
Step 50 - before you install the vacuum pump you will want to do the steps in
Step 51 first because you will need to have the pump off to actually put the cam plate back on to see if you have everything aligned correctly.
Step 53 - I have never tried to put the mount back in after I have all of the belt done. I have had it sort of in place but not in the way while I tension everything up.
