My 2015 Passat has a bad bushing in the front left lower control arm. It's the rear, inner bushing on the front arm. Are the bushings replaceable or must I replace the arm assembly? Are there any upgrades to do at this time? OEM or aftermarket? I will be doing brake pads and rotors as well. Any special tools required? Any vendor recommendations? I appreciate any advice on this. If there was a previous thread on this in specificity, I couldn't find it. Thanks for your help and thanks for this great site.
2015 Lower Control Arm/Bushing Replacement
- Thread starter DieselD
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pedroYUL
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It is my understanding that this solid Audi bushing works: 81A-407-183
You'll need a press to install the new ones in, and probably cut the old one, carefully out. If you do have access to a press, then I would just press the old one out too.
I've read that this bushing may require you to drop the subframe down, so that you can slide it back into that pocket.
You'll need a press to install the new ones in, and probably cut the old one, carefully out. If you do have access to a press, then I would just press the old one out too.
I've read that this bushing may require you to drop the subframe down, so that you can slide it back into that pocket.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
I always take the subframe down on these, just makes it easier to slide the control arms out and in. You can lower it down just enough without removing the steering harness, but you will have to remove the steering pinion inside the car (super easy... takes a few seconds).
I press the old bushings out and the new ones in.
I press the old bushings out and the new ones in.
Great info. Thanks guys. Is dropping the subframe difficult? I'll do some searching as there's probably a how-to thread on it. Might as well replace the bushings on both sides since I'm dropping the subframe or is it best to leave best alone? Do you recommend oe sway bar or is there an upgrade? What's a subframe isolation kit?
Last edited:
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
I can have the entire subframe completely out of the car in 20 minutes. So yeah, it is pretty easy. I have a lift and air tools, and a transmission jack mind you, but still, it is fairly straightforward. There are only six bolts that hold the whole assembly to the underside of the body.
There have been various complaints and supposed remedies for subframes "shifting" about on many A5, A6, B6, etc. cars, but usually the cheaper steel setups of the NCS and NMS are less prone to this. I'd not worry about it... I've probably had 50+ subframes loose on NCS and NMS cars, and never had a single issue.
I always do control arm bushings in pairs.
I would not fool with the sway bar unless there is a problem with it.
If you just do a google image search, you can find plenty of pictures.
There have been various complaints and supposed remedies for subframes "shifting" about on many A5, A6, B6, etc. cars, but usually the cheaper steel setups of the NCS and NMS are less prone to this. I'd not worry about it... I've probably had 50+ subframes loose on NCS and NMS cars, and never had a single issue.
I always do control arm bushings in pairs.
I would not fool with the sway bar unless there is a problem with it.
If you just do a google image search, you can find plenty of pictures.
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
OEM or something similar. The pads from the dealer are competitively priced. Rotors are hit and miss, and the NMS actually got some poor(er) quality rotors than other VAG models. So maybe Zimmerman or Textar or Brembo.
Do you always reuse the same subframe bolts? I dropped my subframe twice when I did my front swaybar and reused the bolts and ive had the subframe clunk ever since. I just got the isolation kit in with some ARP bolts and gonna install this week. I did the front swaybar to stiffen the ride. I love how it handles.
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I went with stoptech drilled and slotted rotors with stoptech pads because i like how they look. Performance is good also, I have about 40k miles on that setup and they still have plenty of life.
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I guess if you plan to autocross it.. then yes. Or if you like the looks there’s always that. But I drive my car really hard and love the setup I have with Koni active struts/shocks, front and rear swaybars, and a Malone Stage2 tune. Just need to install my subframe kit cause the OE subframe bolts are technically single use, torque to yield, and I didn’t replace them after dropping the subframe to install the swaybar.
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Strider17
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just installed the RS3 bushings 81A-407-183 in my 2015 NMS passat. Straight forward job...dont have to drop the subframe at all
pedroYUL
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How's the ride?
Those are solid bushings right?
I might just do it to firm up my ride a bit. Want to find some firmer/taller springs too eventually, but it's not that straight forward for the NMS.
Those are solid bushings right?
I might just do it to firm up my ride a bit. Want to find some firmer/taller springs too eventually, but it's not that straight forward for the NMS.
Strider17
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6speed Manual doesnt need the subframe to be dropped
Strider17
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it did stiffen it up a bit.
during the process i also did new sway bar links (OEM ONLY....had aftermarket german made ones and they lasted 5k)
also got new conti summer tires (pure contact)
the RS3 bushings and lastly got an alignment done.
also i run jetta sportswagon SUPLEX TOWING springs 1K0511115CT
it raises the rear end up by a solid 1.5 inches...but i do run a bike rack and tow my trailer couple times a month...the rear end sits level once i have some weight on the trailer hitch