Timing Belt change this weekend....

Hi,
Going to change the timing belt this weekend with a 100K kit from Bleached Bora (thanks Aaron!).
I want to make sure that I reset everything the same with the VCDS when the job is done - (I love my mpg and want to keep it there) - I have already checked the IP timing so I know where it is currently. Is there anything else that I should look at with the VCDS prior to doing the change? I saw some folks talking about "torsion" in a thread and wondered if that was something that needs setting .

Thanks!!

Torsion is a measurement found in the pd engines, not the ve engines such as yours.

Thanks ninedee - so there is nothing else to look at then? I didn't see anything else mentioned in the A4 TB Change how-to writeup so I imagine it's time to turn some wrenches....

When you do the final timing adjustment, rotate the pump shaft clockwise in relation to the sprocket to advance. The instructions in that article are incorrect.

Also, you should rotate the engine using a socket on the crank bolt, not by turning the cam.

0.02 from (another) someone who has done it- regarding the wrench procedure...
There isn't any one step that's monumentally complex or difficult.
Read through the entire process (noting the above) before you start.
Be committed to check and re-check, and make sure things make sense.
Before attempting to start the engine, turn the crankshaft clockwise through at least 4 revs (two complete engine cycles) and back to TDC, make sure things line up (reinsert cam plate, pump pin) and verify proper time.
Note you do NOT need to disconnect the fuel lines, in order to do a TB job. I recommend leave the lines connected. If you plan to replace the fuel filter, do that as a separate operation. This way, if you happen to encounter starting problems after the TB, you can be relatively confident it's not a fuel feed / prime issue from changing the filter, and instead focus on the IP timing. If everything is done per process (and fuel lines undisturbed), the engine will start instantly like always. (I've never had a "no start")
=
Take your time. Save the beers for after completion when the engine is running You'll do great. May the Force be with you- good luck!

Download Oldpoopie's checkoff list... very very useful... (it's somewhere here on the website...)

Yuri

I have never done an ALH but I have a tip that might apply if the ALH has the same 3 bolts securing the cam sprocket to the cam hub as the BRM has. I couldn't find a how to for the ALH so IDK for certain...............

When you tension the belt leave the 3 cam sprocket bolts finger loose. You may have to very slightly move the crank shaft to regain the slip fit with the lock at the crank.

Once you are certain you have a slip fit of the locating tools, tighten the 3 cam bolts, remove all the locking tools and turn the engine 2 full turns CW till the locking tool for the crank lines up with a slip fit. Do not turn the crank backwards if you miss the mark, go around 2 more turns.

You will find, that the cam locking location is close, but not quite a slip fit anymore do to belt stretch. Loosen the 3 bolts on the cam and turn the cam by the center bolt till you get a slip fit on the cam, again and re tighten the 3 bolts. Do the same on the injector pump to get a slip fit on the pump locking tool.

Take the locking tools out and turn the engine 2 more times and lock the crank once again at a slip fit. The cam and the pump locking pins should now have a slip fit.

What I'm trying to pass on here is the methodology that will give you very accurate repeatable results no matter which of the VAG Diesels you have.

I just did the job on my car this week. Anyone who's mechanical can do it if they are meticulous and fully understand the concept of tensioning the belt with the cam and injection gears loose.

Make sure you have new harmonic balancer bolts, they're easy to strip.

My only n00b mistake: Trying to turn over the crank by hand when the engine was in gear.

My only n00b mistake: Trying to turn over the crank by hand when the engine was in gear.[/QUOTE]


Thats great! Sounds like something I would do!!

Thanks to all for the suggestions - I have printed off the how-to's a while back and have been peeking under the hood while reading them so I pretty much understand what's going on. I have the tools now too so I am going to take my time and do it one step at a time.

Thanks!!

PS. All of you folks on the east coast be careful with that hurricane coming in!

Definitely get the damper bolts. Had one strip on me they are not very strong. Also consider an engine support bar it will make things easier when you try to get the engine mount bracket out.

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The job is done - good thing I went ahead and did it. Last guy did a mark and pray job on it, but I will say the crank & cam were in time with each other before I tore it down.
Looked like it still had the original water pump (133,000 miles), the small lower roller was pretty noisy turning it by hand and the tensioner was turned CCW like a gasser. Yikes!
All in all not a bad job to do - took about 5 hours following the instructions page by page. Next time it will take a couple hours less.
The 100K TB Kit from Bora Parts had every thing needed - I did opt for the Dayco belt. I highly recommend it!!

Sounds like another success story for someone who took the time to do the homework up-front. Congrats and many happy (thousands of ) miles...